Melt and re-pour Carnauba paste wax

A4 1.8tqm

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I got a good deal on a nearly full tub of P21s 100% from Christian900se, he has too many paste wax's and this was just sitting unused. Thanks Christian!

Wax came with everything as if it was new and lightning speed shipping!

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I waxed the trunk of a friends car for a test spot (it needed wax as we've been sanding out orange peel panel by panel and just finished the trunk. Sorry no pics). The wax goes on thin, quickly passes the swipe test, buffs off with ease and looked great. All as expected.

But when I pulled the wax from the jar I found that it was crumbling at the bottom. It didn't piss me off even a little because I immediately knew what was about to happen, MELT AND RE-POUR! I've read a few posts about melting and mixing wax's and have wanted to try it myself. A great opportunity as I haven't been able to bring myself to dig into a jar of perfectly fine wax.

I loosened up all the wax from the bottom of the tub and shaved any pieces off of the solid chunk.
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Then added all the wax pieces to a clean glass jar.
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I heated some water, to almost boiling, in an old camping pot, this things seen it's share of camp fires. :)
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Placed the jar into the water for a make-shift double-boiler
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Didn't take too long to start melting
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Stirring
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More melting
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Completely melted
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I poured the melted wax into my clean and empty tub of Original Formula P21s
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Poured
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I left it overnight to harden, the wax has returned to the consistency I would expect. It's back to a solid paste, smooth to the touch and when you swirl your finger on the wax surface it slightly melts under your finger.
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I'm glad that it returned to normal. Now I just have to do a 50/50 test of melted and re-poured vs unaltered. If the tests prove no ill effects, I may have some interesting and entertaining posts in the future*.

*I just like to experiment, I'm not thinking that I will create the "next best thing" or some "super wax". The chemists know best.
 
I did the same thing with P21S 100% and all the oils came up to the top. Funny I've done this with other waxes with no problems.
 
I did the same thing with P21S 100% and all the oils came up to the top. Funny I've done this with other waxes with no problems.

At what point did the oils separate? While it was liquid? After it solidified? This is P21s 100%, and it seems to have returned to normal. I was careful to only heat the wax until it just melted, then pulled it from the heat and stirred until all was melted. Maybe you over heated it?
 
At what point did the oils separate? While it was liquid? After it solidified? This is P21s 100%, and it seems to have returned to normal. I was careful to only heat the wax until it just melted, then pulled it from the heat and stirred until all was melted. Maybe you over heated it?
The oils came up about a week or two later. Until then it look fine.
 
The oils came up about a week or two later. Until then it looked fine.

Wow, lame. Now I have to wait forever to see what happens. At least I only melted a small portion of the wax. The majority was fine in the first place and it's back in it's jar, safe from my experiments. Thanks for the heads up. :xyxthumbs:
 
I am glad you got it in one piece! I should check the off topic section more often, especially with all your future concoctions. I never took the wax out of the container so I never knew what was hiding under there, but thanks for showing how to double boil as I have been curious about that.

P21s 100% is very easy to work with, maybe mixing it in with a more durable yet harder to use wax would yield some impressive results.
 
Thanks Christian! No problem about the wax underneath, I'm actually glad, I have fun playing with stuff. :D

If the re-poured portion of wax does not separate I'll definitely do a couple mixes for entertainment purposes.
 
I did this last year with a tin of M16.

Before

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During

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After

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My collinite 915 has this issue... Is this possible from it being heated in the sun or in storage bins in the back of the truck on a hot day?

The wax has a chunkiness to it. Is this a problem to use when it is in this shape.. beside getting blobs on the applicator? Mine has been like this since day 1 of opening the can (i opened from the bottom so i could apply it to a soft pad and apply via PC).

Waxes are not cheap... I'd hate to ruin an entire tin by having it separate but If I shouldn't be using it in this condition then I guess its better then nothing...

Please advise ... thanks in advance

Chris
 
My collinite 915 has this issue... Is this possible from it being heated in the sun or in storage bins in the back of the truck on a hot day?

I would think the heat could definitely affect the consistency of the wax.

The wax has a chunkiness to it. Is this a problem to use when it is in this shape.

I don't think it is a problem to use in this state. I have used waxes like that before and they worked fine.

Waxes are not cheap... I'd hate to ruin an entire tin by having it separate but If I shouldn't be using it in this condition then I guess its better then nothing.

The only reason I melted mine down was because I wanted to try it and it did not matter to me if I ruined it in the process, because I got it for a really cheap price and I had another 2 tins of M16 if something did happen.
 
My collinite 915 has this issue... Is this possible from it being heated in the sun or in storage bins in the back of the truck on a hot day?

Waxes are not cheap... I'd hate to ruin an entire tin by having it separate but If I shouldn't be using it in this condition then I guess its better then nothing...

Please advise ... thanks in advance

Chris

If your 915 has loose chunks in the tin, that is most likely from getting knocked around or shock from being dropped as I have never seen any 915 have that happen naturally.

You would not ruin the wax either; consider that this is how they are produced in the first place.
 
Thanks I might have to try this out to rehab the tin... I end up putting it on heavier when chunks get into the applicators... which with collinite is a pain to get off... Might fix the issue I have been having with it
 
Re-poured portion of wax still looks good, hope it stay's that way...

Thanks I might have to try this out to rehab the tin... I end up putting it on heavier when chunks get into the applicators... which with collinite is a pain to get off... Might fix the issue I have been having with it

Be sure to post the result if you do it!
 
New guy here. For what it's worth, when I was in the military, I used
to strip my boots twice a year. I'd melt my shoe polish (double boiler
style) and reapply to the boots with lots of elbow grease while the
wax was still melted. I'd then burnish the freshly applied wax and
follow up with a spit shine after the can of wax had rehardened. My
boots always looked great and the can of polish never separated or
cracked.


BTW. This practice was not followed while I was in a war zone.

Rick
 
Just for fun, I did a new experiment (two years later LOL). I melted down a small portion of both Wolfgang Fuzion and AutoGlym HD, combined them and poured the mix into an empty wax tub.

Here's a time lapse I made of the process-

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PzR9-ZrPXI]Combine Fuzion and Autoglym HD Wax Timelapse - YouTube[/video]

The thought behind this mix was to combine the amazing usability of Fuzion (it spreads so buttery smooth and removes very easlily) with the durability and awesome water sheeting of Autoglym HD (which it not quite as user-friendly).

A quick first impression, just rubbing the new wax with my finger, it is very hard. It does not melt slightly under your finger as pure Fuzion does so nicely. A couple swipes of a foam applicator barely picks up any wax at all, but an extremely thin film of wax is transferred to the paint. If it doesn't go well in a full test, I'm thinking about remelting it and adding some Collinite 845 IW in attempt to soften the mix a little.

I'll put it in a side by side test and post the results if there is any interest.
 
A quick first impression, just rubbing the new wax with my finger, it is very hard. It does not melt slightly under your finger as pure Fuzion does so nicely. A couple swipes of a foam applicator barely picks up any wax at all, but an extremely thin film of wax is transferred to the paint. If it doesn't go well in a full test, I'm thinking about remelting it and adding some Collinite 845 IW in attempt to soften the mix a little.

I'll put it in a side by side test and post the results if there is any interest.

David,

I have heard that the addition of Polycharger into molten paste wax will make it soft like wet mud after cooled. That may not be desirable for paste wax. I think you may add some polycharged paint sealants to see how it come out?
:props:
 
David,

I have heard that the addition of Polycharger into molten paste wax will make it soft like wet mud after cooled. That may not be desirable for paste wax. I think you may add some polycharged paint sealants to see how it come out?
:props:

Interesting! Maybe just a little bit will do the trick. I definitely have some more experimenting to do, in what small spare time I have to play with this stuff. Any sealants in the PBMA lines polycharged? I forget...
 
Pretty sure BFWD is polycharged, but I could be mistaken? I'd like to see some updates on this as well...stumbled across it while searching for paste waxes lol.
 
Sorry I missed this..
Sonus, Ultima, Blackfire are polycharged.
There might be some other products but thats what i can tk of right now.
 
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