Menz Help Please

lethalxls1

lethalxls1

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I recently bought the Menz SIP and nano. The car has some severe micromarring and some scratches and swirls and the paint is a 5 year old repaint that was never taken care of before I bought it. The first time doing a test area on the door(1 week ago) a LC orange pad(the flat kind not the CCS) and SIP was used and the results were very good (before even going to the next step with Nano). That Orange pad was pretty bad (it was falling apart) so I threw it away and bought a Orange CCS LC pad to do the rest of the car with. Today , using the Orange CCS LC pad, noticed it was leaving alot of micromarring and wasnt producing the great results like the regular flat Orange LC pad did. So then a white CCS LC pad was then used on the same area (making sure to prime the pad with a few sprays of distilled water) and no better results were achieved on the same area. The same area was then polished with Nano and a Gray CCS LC pad-which made the area look much better but still a small amount of micro marring could be seen under Halogen lights. From what I have read I understand that before the Nano polish is applied that the finish should be pretty much perfect because the Nano isnt really supposed to be used but for the slightest imperfections. I dont understand why the test area done on the door with the flat Orange LC pad and SIP a week ago came out so much better then the CCS Orange pad and SIP-the only thing I can think of is maybe the flat LC pad created more heat? I read that if the SIP isnt broken down enough it can cause micromarring and if its broken down too much it can cause micromarring. Is there any chance the small amount of micromarring can be removed from the area that has already been done or should it be left alone and move on? You have to have the lights on the area and look really close. Am I just expecting too much? On a 2x2 area a thin 5- 6 inch line of polish was used. Occassionally the pad was sprayed a time or two when needed-with distilled H2O. Polish was worked until it flashed. Any suggestions and ideas would be greately appreciated.

Any idea how many back and forth and up and down overlapping passes on a 2x2 area does it usually take for the SIP to be ready to be removed?(estimation)

Thanks
 
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I have always noticed micromarring when using the orange pads, even LC. What I have found is moving to the white pad and 106FF seems to remove most of it and then redoing with grey finishing pad and 106FF or micropolish really finishes it out well. Lots of work, but worth the effort for neglected finishes.

Polishes should always be worked until they flash from a liquid state to a talc or powder type product. Dont count passes as the polish might not break down fully causing more damage.
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
I have always noticed micromarring when using the orange pads, even LC. What I have found is moving to the white pad and 106FF seems to remove most of it and then redoing with grey finishing pad and 106FF or micropolish really finishes it out well. Lots of work, but worth the effort for neglected finishes.

Polishes should always be worked until they flash from a liquid state to a talc or powder type product. Dont count passes as the polish might not break down fully causing more damage.
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That makes sense. I appreciate the advice.:cheers:
I just cant figure out why the flat orange pad worked so well.
 
TOGWT said:
SIP is considered a polish as opposed to a finishing polish; try following it with 106FF then 85RE LC CCS Blue or Black foam pad for an amazing finish on any dark coloured paint

See also Menzerna Polishes-
Methodology Part I
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...443-menzerna-polishes-methodology-part-i.html

Methodology Part II http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...44-menzerna-polishes-methodology-part-ii.html
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Thanks ! I have read every post you have made about Menzerna 3-4 times hahah. I appreciate the help. The SIP was followed with Nano polish and it came out looking pretty good. I just thought the SIP should have made the paint look better before moving to the Nano (like when the door was done).
 
KILLRWHEELS- The White LC CCS pad was used with the Nano like you suggested instead of the gray pad and the results were AMAZING!!!! The White pad got all the marring out-flawless! I cant thank you enough!!! A final polish with the Nano and a gray pad will be done as well.
 
lethalxls1 said:
KILLRWHEELS- The White LC CCS pad was used with the Nano like you suggested instead of the gray pad and the results were AMAZING!!!! The White pad got all the marring out-flawless! I cant thank you enough!!! A final polish with the Nano and a gray pad will be done as well.
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The white pad is a polishing pad, and the black pad is a finishing pad. You want to use the white pad to polish, and the black pad pretty much to apply sealant, waxes, glazes, and what not
I'm glad Scott steered you the right way
Cheers!
 
Finishing polishes should be used with finishing pads such as CCS blue or gray.
 
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^ I agree but the gray pad just wasnt producing good enough results. A gray pad is whats reccomended on AG store for Nano. Switched to a white and it worked excellent.
 
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What kind of car were you working on? What color?
 
Z06-Goose said:
The white pad is a polishing pad, and the black pad is a finishing pad. You want to use the white pad to polish, and the black pad pretty much to apply sealant, waxes, glazes, and what not
I'm glad Scott steered you the right way
Cheers!
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I am glad he suggested that too! I was fustrated. The White pad with the Nano made all the differance in the world. :cheers::righton::buffing:
 
If you use a pad with cut with a finishing polish then you wont be getting maximum gloss. You should of been able to work SIP w/ white and have no marring, then gone over that with 106 and blue. You might of gotten marring with SIP and white if you werent working it right, or the paint was extremely soft.
 
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White Pad with Nano = Great Results. Don't depend on the finishing polish to achieve depth, go for a nice glaze to add depth.
 
D&D Auto Detailing said:
If you use a pad with cut with a finishing polish then you wont be getting maximum gloss. You should of been able to work SIP w/ white and have no marring, then gone over that with 106 and blue. You might of gotten marring with SIP and white if you werent working it right, or the paint was extremely soft.
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When using a White pad with SIP there was no marring at all.

A area was done with a CCS LC Orange pad and it left micromarring. That area was then done with a White CCS LC pad but it still had marring. That area was then done with a CCS LC White pad and Nano which gave great results. Needed a way to fix just that area.

The rest of the car will be done with White CCS LC pad w/ SIP then Gray CCS LC pad with Nano. May do white pad with nano then blue pad with nano.

The thing I find strange is when the first test area was done with a FLAT old style LC orange pad with SIP it left no Marring at all-the area looked great. When a CCS LC Orange pad is used with SIP it leaves marring. I dont have the flat orange pad anymore because it was a bit messed up so I trashed it. I am wondering if the new CCS orange pads have a little more cutting power to them then the old flat style.
 
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There is never a need for glaze when Menzerna is done correctly, its obvious that you dont have a handle on that yet. Please do not give out false info if you can not work the product to its full potential or know which pad to use to achieve outstanding results.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
There is never a need for glaze when Menzerna is done correctly; it’s obvious that you don’t have a handle on that yet. Please do not give out false info if you cannot work the product to its full potential or know which pad to use to achieve outstanding results.
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Thanks for the input, but once again not everyone uses a glaze to hide imperfections like you always assume. Glaze can also be used to add depth to any fully polished finish (I guess we need to let menzerna know to stop making their glaze BTW)

If the creator of this thread didn't want our input then I'm sure he wouldn't have asked.

What's with the off-topic personal critique anyway?? Why don't you just PM if you want chat about my detailing experience....

 
No need to pm you for advice, your experience shows in your write-ups, and once again no glaze will help if menzerna is done correctly. Why wouldnt menzerna make a glaze to hit that market also, also no personal attack just want people to get correct advice. Like I said before you do not know your pad combos with menzerna. I guess you dont want advice either, this should make think and try some different combos and you might find the difference. Good luck.
 
lethalxls1 said:
The thing I find strange is when the first test area was done with a FLAT old style LC orange pad with SIP it left no Marring at all-the area looked great. When a CCS LC Orange pad is used with SIP it leaves marring. I dont have the flat orange pad anymore because it was a bit messed up so I trashed it. I am wondering if the new CCS orange pads have a little more cutting power to them then the old flat style.
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Been thinking about this and have a few theories...

1) Since it was done on different days, there may have been other variables (temp., humidity, etc.) that may have affected the polish other than the change in pads.

2) It may be that the new pad has more cut just because it's new. Maybe someone with more experience could chime in here, but it seems to me that like any cutting tool, be it a blade, sandpaper, a grinding wheel, etc. a foam pad would become "duller" over time with repeated uses. Since you describe the flat pad as pretty much shot, I wonder if it had just lost some of the original cutting power it once had.

3) You may be right, I suspect that pads made at different times may not be EXACTLY the same. I have no idea how strict the QC is at foam manufacturing plant.
 
lethalxls1 said:
When using a White pad with SIP there was no marring at all.

A area was done with a CCS LC Orange pad and it left micromarring. That area was then done with a White CCS LC pad but it still had marring. That area was then done with a CCS LC White pad and Nano which gave great results. Needed a way to fix just that area.

The rest of the car will be done with White CCS LC pad w/ SIP then Gray CCS LC pad with Nano. May do white pad with nano then blue pad with nano.

The thing I find strange is when the first test area was done with a FLAT old style LC orange pad with SIP it left no Marring at all-the area looked great. When a CCS LC Orange pad is used with SIP it leaves marring. I dont have the flat orange pad anymore because it was a bit messed up so I trashed it. I am wondering if the new CCS orange pads have a little more cutting power to them then the old flat style.
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OK good, you shouldnt be getting marring with SIP and white. But I dont understand why that wasnt able to remove the marring from SIP and orange? There has been talk that CCS orange pads are stiffer then they were before. Im still waiting on an answer about that.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
No need to pm you for advice, your experience shows in your write-ups, and once again no glaze will help if menzerna is done correctly. Why wouldnt menzerna make a glaze to hit that market also, also no personal attack just want people to get correct advice. Like I said before you do not know your pad combos with menzerna. I guess you dont want advice either, this should make think and try some different combos and you might find the difference. Good luck.
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No luck needed, but I do have proof of my work to say the least...

Lethal I tried to help, but ashphalt seems to have created Menzerna so your best bet is to listen and take notes from him.
 
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