Menzerna IP Q

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If i polish with menz ip will i have to follow up with another polish to bring the shine back before glaze/sealant/nuba?
 
Depends on the paint and the pad you used to apply IP.
 
Depends on the paint and the pad you used to apply IP.

Yep. Totally agree.
Some can get IP to finish down LSP ready........some can't. Depends on the paint and the machine being used too.

You have to make the call after you've finished with IP. Take a look and see if it needs more finishing.

Let us know.
 
I would follow up with a finishing polish and light polishing pad to jewel the paint before LSP, just to be sure I have the best surface possible. Like Justin mentioned, some can achieve this in one step, but I always follow-up just to be safe.
 
is final polish a good follow up? i was thinking about buying one of the menz kits, and they both come with IP and FP.
 
is final polish a good follow up? i was thinking about buying one of the menz kits, and they both come with IP and FP.

Definitely. You can use FP to jewel the paint after IP, I haven't tried the 106ff but FP works fine for me.
 
cool, ill pick up one of the intensive shine kits before spring, no point in doing before then. Ill just wash it down and put some collinite on there to go through the winter and then give it the full treatment over spring break.
 
If you break it down and work it right, you can actually finish LSP-ready
I do it all the time, it may also depend on the paints as it was mentioned, but as far as hard-clearcoat is concern, no problem here :cheers:
 
If you are going to buy Menzerna, get SIP and 106FF... It's a bit more money, but definitely worth it...
 
will i really see that much more of a difference?
 
First, thanks Justin - made my day. Now, I've never used SIP, BUT - friends that have aren't the happiest campers about it. I've heard from many detailers that it can be a PITA to use, has a finicky side and a learning curve that will try you. Forget it, I'm just a big ol redneck with a couple buffers and a line of cars to do, I ain't got time for that kind of stuff. I use IP and it works GREAT, check the chart AG has - IP is for aged and repaired paint - stuff I detail. Side note, it worked better than anything I've tried (long list - trust me) on my 2 month old 2008 Honda Accord.
 
I used IP for the first time this past weekend (about 50* in my garage) on a Orange pad with my PC. It seemed pretty difficult to spread and dried up very quickly. The pad skipped occasionally on the paint and just didn't seem very well lubed. I tried some quick detailer on the pad and it seemed ot help a little bit, but I never felt comfortable with it. I followed up with 106ff on a white pad and that stuff is AMAZING!!! It flowed nicely and was incredibly easy to spread even with a very small amount of product on the pad. I don't know if it was the difference of the pad (orange vs white) or the IP vs. the 106ff or both that made it so much easier to use?? Any ideas for when I do it the next time??

BTW, the results came out great, but I HAD to follow up with the 106ff as there were slight marks left over from the IP since it was very difficult to remove from the paint.
 
I used IP for the first time this past weekend (about 50* in my garage) on a Orange pad with my PC. It seemed pretty difficult to spread and dried up very quickly. The pad skipped occasionally on the paint and just didn't seem very well lubed. I tried some quick detailer on the pad and it seemed ot help a little bit, but I never felt comfortable with it. I followed up with 106ff on a white pad and that stuff is AMAZING!!! It flowed nicely and was incredibly easy to spread even with a very small amount of product on the pad. I don't know if it was the difference of the pad (orange vs white) or the IP vs. the 106ff or both that made it so much easier to use?? Any ideas for when I do it the next time??

BTW, the results came out great, but I HAD to follow up with the 106ff as there were slight marks left over from the IP since it was very difficult to remove from the paint.

Intensive polish is nasty to use with a PC. I get somewhat better results when using it with a rotary polisher, yet it still isn't a very user friendly product. 106FF is definitely a step in the right direction as far as user friendliness is concerned. I really like this polish with a PC and a rotary. I have never had a lot of luck with IP and the old FP as well (not the 85U). Sure the results may be nice but it takes a ton of work to get there. Some may not of a problem with a polish that is hard to work with but I do :), especially when there are products out there that get the same results but easier to use.
 
i got ip, fp, and finishing glaze for xmas, used it on my hood and came out excellent, it will work fine for my purposes. There were a few spots where i could use something stronger, but ill see if another pass will fix it. if not ill just grab some power gloss and call it a day.
 
Aren't the Menz polishes pad-dependant? Could 106ff be used with an orange pad to get a little more bite?

budman, is your experience with IP or SIP? Just wondering if SIP is also difficult to work?

Thanks!!
 
Aren't the Menz polishes pad-dependant? Could 106ff be used with an orange pad to get a little more bite?

budman, is your experience with IP or SIP? Just wondering if SIP is also difficult to work?

Thanks!!
These polishes were designed to work with high speed rotary polisher’s, utilizing friction to break-down the diminishing abrasives, while in the controlled temperature / humidity environment (working temp range 60 – 800F (15-260C) of a vehicle manufacturer’s paint shop finishing line. Note that silicone has an adverse effect on the oils used for surface lubrication and can cause the polish to smear, also be aware that working outside you may have issues like excess humidity, heat, cold, etc that will affect there performance especially with the Nano polish (105FF) as it uses wax as a lubricant (colder temps may cause the wax to harden)

It should also be noted that these polishes use oil in water emulsion or wax for lubrication; if you are using a polymer after polishing it will be necessary to wipe-down the paint surface with Menzerna Top Inspection, a 1:1 solution of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water or DuPont’s Prepsol solvent.


These diminishing abrasive polishes are foam pad ‘dependant’ as far as its paint correction / renovation abilities are concerned and they appear to work better when the foam pad is ‘primed’

Diagnosis is the key; not guesswork; always use the least abrasive product / foam pad combination before ‘stepping-up’ to something more aggressive. The most important first step in the process of paint surface detailing is diagnosing the paint surface; density of clear coat (hard or soft) or single stage paint, surface condition; severity of the scratches and the paint thickness available will dictate the choice and abrasiveness of polish / compound for correction or renovation level required or indeed possible.
No matter what product is used it can only reflect what in underneath it;

How much polish to use; add a small X of polish to a primed foam pad (two thin lines in a cross, about 3 or 4 - inches long). This along with the distilled water will help to avoid polishing with a dry pad. There after, two dime sized beads is enough to polish an area of 18 to 24 inches square

Notes - Both Super Intensive Polish (SIP) and Nano Polish (106FF) were formulated for Ceramiclear paints, the micro diminishing abrasives are milled finer and much harder, and also contain a higher abrasive content, 7% were as the other polishes contain 3% abrasives.

All Menzerna’s polishes can be used on any isocyanate polyurethane (conventional clear coats) these polishes are very intolerant of silicone oils as they will cause surface smearing. (I use Optimum- Hyper Compound, and Hi Temp - Heavy when in sun (but not direct sunlight)
(See also Surface Preparation)

3. Super Intensive Polish (PO83Q) SIP will remove 2000 grit, cut 3.5 – gloss 3.0, 1300 RPM - primed Orange (mid range, high densityfoam (60 PPI) medium abrasive cutting action) LC CCS foam pads

4. Nano Polish (105FF) will remove 2500 grit, for light surface marring and / or surface finishing, cut 2.5 - gloss 5.0 for LSP ready use a primed White (softer less dense foam (70 PPI)with a light abrasive cutting action )LC CCS foam pad - 1100 RPM

5. Final Finish Polish (PO106FA) the up-rated version of P0106FF, will remove 2500 - 3000 grit, for surface finishing, cut: 2.5 – gloss 5.0 contains very finely milled micro diminishing abrasives that have a sharp edge that can cut ceramic clear coats as well as the more conventional clear coats, for LSP ready use a primed White (softer less dense foam (70 PPI)with a light abrasive cutting action) LC CCS foam pad, 1100 RPM.
 
It's funny, I had no issues with IP but when I tried 106 (PC-white pad) I had a little trouble removing and had to adjust my amount and technique. Like someone said - they work better with a rotary, so I'll break out the Makita next time to see.
 
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