Menzerna Power Finish PF2500 - tips?

Gurge

Gurge

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Despite the high cost, recently developing a liking for Menz Powerfinish PF2500. This is primarily for 1 step polishes

I like the results. Cuts pretty well and finishes nicely.

I find it dusts quite a bit though. Is this normal? or related to my technique? too much product?

This wasn't in direct sunlight, but the times I've used it have been pretty warm days (80 degrees or better). And I don't think I'm using too much product, but I suppose thats up for discussion.

once the pad is primed I put 3 or 4 dime size drops of product on the pad. 5 or 6 slow section passes, and cleaning on the fly in between buffing cycles

Problem is if I ultimately choose PF2500 it dusts so heavy I'm forced to wash & dry the car again pre-LSP. So I'm spending a long time working the product so the diminishing abrasives break down and then on top of that I have to wash a second time

any help is appreciated. Thanks...
 
i use Power finish alot and i only see minor dusting if i overdo my section passes. i put three to four small drops on the edge of my pad as it will move towards the center. just keep cleaning your pad on the fly and it will work great. good luck.
 
elk42 said:
i use Power finish alot and i only see minor dusting if i overdo my section passes. i put three to four small drops on the edge of my pad as it will move towards the center. just keep cleaning your pad on the fly and it will work great. good luck.
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I gotta be doing something wrong. even the AG product description says low dusting formula

maybe i'm overdoing my section passes also. doing too many so I'm sure the polish has fully broken down
 
the polish breaks down nicely. check your work frequently after wiping down with a microfiber towel. it is a very user-friendly polish with awesome results!
 
elk42 said:
just keep cleaning your pad on the fly and it will work great.
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Great advice for any compound or polish...


The below isn't really for the OP but for everyone that will ever read this into the future...

Wet Buffing Technique


The Wet Buffing Technique
Most compounds and polishes should be used so that there is enough product on the surface to maintain a wet film while the product is being worked. The wetness of the product is lubricating the paint as the abrasives abrade the paint and cushion or buffer the abrading action so the abrasives don’t simply scour the finish leaving behind what we call micro-marring or hazing the paint.

Micro-marring, Hazing or Tick Marks
MicromarringTickMarks01.jpg





Tip: Wet film behind your path-of-travel
Everyone new to buffing wants to be told some easily identifiable sign that they can use to tell when it's time to stop buffing and it's not that simple, so here's an indicator I've always used and share in our detailing classes.


As you're making a single pass with the polisher, the paint behind the path-of-travel should have a visible wet film on it. If the paint behind the pad is dry and shiny, you've run out of lubrication and you're dry buffing.

Turn the polisher off. Wipe the residue off and inspect using a Swirl Finder Light to make sure you didn't dull or micro-mar the paint, you usually won't cause any harm, but pay attention when your running the polisher and don't buff to a dry buff. If you do, you can quickly re-polish that section by cleaning your pad and adding a little fresh product and making a few new section passes.

Wet film behind your path-of-travel
Wetfilmbehindyourpath-of-travel.jpg





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:)
 
great info. thanks mike

looks like maybe I need to play with it more and build some trust that the product is breaking down quicker than I think.
 
I used SF4000 last weekend with a Dewalt849X. I found that if I used too much product, the excess produced a fair amount of dust. There was a fine oily reisdue on the car but the excess, similiarly to M105 flew all over. Unlike M105 the excess SF4000 just wipes up eaily. If I used less product, minimal dust.
 
If 2500 dusts, it means I worked too big of an area or too long (either way, letting it get kinda dry). When I see it start to dust, I know I've gone too long. For me, it is a lot less dusty than M105 for example.
 
Maybe, when performing your test spot, do 3 or 4 of them on the hood. Do one with 2 section passes, one with 3, one with 4, etc. Wipe them all off and see how many section passes you need to get the job done. If you're doing 4 to 6 when 2 was doing the job, you're causing yourself more work, as well as more dust. Weather and paint conditions change with each job, so this is a good practice, even if you're using the same product on a daily basis.
 
I don't think i'm using a ton of product. I think its the work time. need to shorten it up which is fine with me. Was doing all I can to break down the polish completely to max out the gloss it would provide. sounds like I'm overdoing it.

and i've not had this happen with sf4000 btw. just the pf2500
 
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