Menzerna SHCC300?

[geekdout]

I think the product you have been searching for is Scholl Concepts S3 XXL. The S3 XXL compound is the new improved version of their S3 compound. Maybe not in one step or with the same pad but on harder paints this stuff will finish out LSP ready by nearly anyone's standards.

Even the S02 compound will finish out pretty good considering how much cut it offers.

 

[dschia]

How does this product compare to FG400? Things I dislike about FG400...

-Many compounds outCUT it and outFINISH it, but the low dusting levels is what I like
-takes forever to break down (wastes time and is very hard to remove if not broken down)
-strong chemical smell

Does Menzerna SHCC300 fulfill the shortcomings of FG400? If so, post all your thoughts and opinions on it here. Ultimately, I'm looking for something that performs as well as M101, without the god awful dusting issues!

I beg to differ on the point with cut/finish. Having used many litres/gallon of m101/m105 and many other compounds, I still think FG400 produce one of the best finish with the amount of cut achieved. Of course it could be my technique and many other factors. If you need more cut, use a rotary with a twisted wool, 100% wool or purple foam wool. More importantly ime is FG400 is a very consistent performer on a wide range of paintwork- be it ceramic, dry, dirty, soft, hard. Something ime lacking in m101/105- again it could be my technique.

Another compound to consider is Sonax Cutmax. It is slightly more forgiving if you dont break down properly. Smell wise pretty much the same strong chemical smell like Menz. I cant wait to try SHCC300 as well.:buffing:

 

[HUMP DIESEL]

I don't think there is a magic compound. There are many out there that do a great job. FG400 is a great compound, but I do agree that on some paint, it doesn't have the pure cut of others. That being said, if you are having to go to a product that is heavier in cut, I think it is safe to assume that some level of polishing after is going to be needed. You can get close.
I have used both Megs and Menzerna. Mike you know this from past post. Time is the kicker. Menzerna products as well as other diminishing abrasive products take more working time to finish them out to make them able to wipe off. Add in humidity or a colder working surface and the time goes up, but if worked to where they need to be, they will wipe off easy and leave a great shine. We have all heard of the FG400 working as a single step when worked correctly, but that is not going to gain the cut that it can if used with the intent of a follow up polishing step.

Same goes for 105/100/101. I've gotten close with 105 to not having to touch it, but if I am going to that heavy a compound, I have already worked into the schedule and price to do a follow up refinement.

HUMP

 

[SameGuy]

I think that's the whole point, yes. If you are promising a customer a full correction of medium or heavy defects with a one step plus LSP, you're not doing yourself any favors.

 

[mg6045]

I have used a bit of SHC300 and in my opinion this products intent is NOT to replace FG400. Atleast for me. I think if better suited for isolated scratch removal or to spot compound areas. (UNLESS you are using this for complete panel or vehicle sanding mark removal, which the majority of us on the forum are not doing. Atleast from what I have seen over the years as a member here.)

This compound has some very sharp abrasives and you HAVE to fully break it down or it will scour the paint pretty badly. FG400 does not behave that way in my experience. So that goes to say the note on the bottom of the AG description page is nice to see. A lot of times those notes are not taken seriously, but on this one they mean it.

 

[mg6045]

I agree. M205 on a mf is pretty potent.

PF 2500 is really nice as well. On softer paint especially, with a green ccs, or blue hex logic... Great cut, and beautiful finish. No dust..

agreed PF2500 with a green (BnS) pad is my go to combo on softer paints. It amazes me everytime, even on harder paints). But when using this combo on soft paint it cuts like a compound and finish's absolutely perfect. But I have found that the cut from the polishing pad is needed. I say this because I polished out a black panel with the PF2500 green pad combo, and went to follow it up with a black pad and SF4000 and I actually marred the paint. This was quite a learning experience for me. That day I learned that a softer pad is NOT always better on soft paint with some polish's. My solution that day was to finish up that one panel with SF4000 and the green polishing/cutting pad to produce a haze free finish (that was on par with but not better than the first combo). I finished up the rest of the car with PF2500 and a green pad.

I learned that if your finishing polish and finishing pad is marring the paint, step it up to a polishing pad and check your results. Sounds counter-intuitive but trust me. Can anyone explain to me whats physically going on in this specific situation ? whey does this happen (mechanically) ?

 

[Chex]

The problem in this case could be that the hardess of the abrasive in SF 4000 is too much and it leaves a very fine haze in soft paints. I've had the same problem but using a rotary buffer.

PF2500 is made with an abrasive that is more fragile than the one found in SF4000. That makes it more forgiving on soft paints and still performs excellent in hard paints.

Did you use SF4000 with an orbital polisher or with a rotary?c7424:

 

[dlc95]

agreed PF2500 with a green (BnS) pad is my go to combo on softer paints. It amazes me everytime, even on harder paints). But when using this combo on soft paint it cuts like a compound and finish's absolutely perfect. But I have found that the cut from the polishing pad is needed. I say this because I polished out a black panel with the PF2500 green pad combo, and went to follow it up with a black pad and SF4000 and I actually marred the paint. This was quite a learning experience for me. That day I learned that a softer pad is NOT always better on soft paint with some polish's. My solution that day was to finish up that one panel with SF4000 and the green polishing/cutting pad to produce a haze free finish (that was on par with but not better than the first combo). I finished up the rest of the car with PF2500 and a green pad.

I learned that if your finishing polish and finishing pad is marring the paint, step it up to a polishing pad and check your results. Sounds counter-intuitive but trust me. Can anyone explain to me whats physically going on in this specific situation ? whey does this happen (mechanically) ?

Good to know!

Their green foam (b&s/hex logic) is normally where I start my compounding process, with M105/fg400/UC.

An even more effective pad would be the b&s white, or LC H20 Crimson.

Both the Lake Country Hydrotech, and the Yellow, Orange, and White Buff and Shine / Hex Logic have a more dense feel, and smooth surfaces by utilizing closed cell foams. Because the abrasives can't "escape" through the open pores of the foam, they are forces to be worked against the paint.

The trade off with open cell pads is the cut of the pad, and what rigidity of the cell walls is present. The green b&s is a 60 ppi pad, where the blue is 80. The foam formula for the green is more rigid than the blue, and thus will be more aggressive.

When comparing the green b&s foam to the white, the white has no real mechanical cut, but its more dense and rigid, and should really put the abrasives through their paces.

I find myself more intrigued with the closed cell pads more lately because of the way they manage abrasives, and the liquids their suspended in.