Mercedes $50 rolled on paintjob - COMPLETED!
- Thread starter Charleston
- Start date
davey g-force
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- Aug 18, 2009
- 1,225
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Great work! :xyxthumbs:
AutowerxDetailing
New member
- Apr 10, 2012
- 2,791
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I can't believable! :applause:
Caleb@ImpeccableImage
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- Dec 16, 2012
- 801
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That is impressive for painting the car with a roller.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Re: Mercedes $50 rolled on paint job - COMPLETED!
Excellent work and great documentation to your process. :dblthumb2:
So many people have cars that are mechanically sound but suffer from clear coat failure. I know because I can't even begin to count how many times I've seen someone ask how to remove oxidation from their car's finish only to find out that the problem isn't oxidation but clear coat failure.
Then the next bad news they find out is the only way to fix clearcoat failure is to repaint the car.
What happens next is the person will get a quote for a new paint job and find out that compared to what their car is worth, at least to them, in relationship to what it will cost to get a "quality" re-paint is more than they want to spend.
But because their car is still mechanically sound they end up driving around a car with plenty of reliable years left in it but it's going to look like it has a severe rash the entire time.
Here's a way the average person able to do even minor mechanical work can paint their own car in their garage and get decent results.
The key besides the prep work and the actual painting steps is to put enough paint on the car so that it can be sanded flat and them compounded to a high gloss shine and that's where Autogeek fits into the picture as we carry all the sanding, compounding and polishing products to create a show car finish out of a roll-on paint job.
If a person even uses a paint brush and leaves brush lines in the paint, as long as you brush on enough paint to create a thick film-build or layer of paint on the body panels, you can EASILY sand the brushed on or rolled-on paint job flat and then buff out your sanding marks.
The key after all the work is done is to,
"Find a product you like and use it often"
And what I mean by this is that single stage paints, and that's what a Rustoleum paint job is going to be, will oxidize a lot more easily than a modern basecoat/clearcoat automotive finish.
So find a polish that has known good polishing oils that keep the paint rich in color and then find a LSP, that is a wax, paint sealant or coating you like and use these two products often enough to maintain the brush-on paint job to your satisfaction.
I would recommend keeping it simple and find a polish like the Meguiar's #3, #7 or #9 and hand or DA apply this polish for the polishing oils, and then seal with a quality wax or paint sealant. Then periodically repeat this process.
If you see light oxidation, use the #9 Swirl Remover not as a swirl remover even though it can do this too, but because it's rich in polishing oils and also contains some light diminishing abrasives to abrade off the oxidation. This will also perfectly prepare the paint for re-application of a wax or paint sealant.
Most coatings are specific to modern automotive clear coats, so that's why you might find it easier and simpler just to use basic polishes and waxes on your single stage paint.
Excellent work and great documentation to your process. :dblthumb2:
So many people have cars that are mechanically sound but suffer from clear coat failure. I know because I can't even begin to count how many times I've seen someone ask how to remove oxidation from their car's finish only to find out that the problem isn't oxidation but clear coat failure.
Then the next bad news they find out is the only way to fix clearcoat failure is to repaint the car.
What happens next is the person will get a quote for a new paint job and find out that compared to what their car is worth, at least to them, in relationship to what it will cost to get a "quality" re-paint is more than they want to spend.
But because their car is still mechanically sound they end up driving around a car with plenty of reliable years left in it but it's going to look like it has a severe rash the entire time.
Here's a way the average person able to do even minor mechanical work can paint their own car in their garage and get decent results.
The key besides the prep work and the actual painting steps is to put enough paint on the car so that it can be sanded flat and them compounded to a high gloss shine and that's where Autogeek fits into the picture as we carry all the sanding, compounding and polishing products to create a show car finish out of a roll-on paint job.
If a person even uses a paint brush and leaves brush lines in the paint, as long as you brush on enough paint to create a thick film-build or layer of paint on the body panels, you can EASILY sand the brushed on or rolled-on paint job flat and then buff out your sanding marks.
The key after all the work is done is to,
"Find a product you like and use it often"
And what I mean by this is that single stage paints, and that's what a Rustoleum paint job is going to be, will oxidize a lot more easily than a modern basecoat/clearcoat automotive finish.
So find a polish that has known good polishing oils that keep the paint rich in color and then find a LSP, that is a wax, paint sealant or coating you like and use these two products often enough to maintain the brush-on paint job to your satisfaction.
I would recommend keeping it simple and find a polish like the Meguiar's #3, #7 or #9 and hand or DA apply this polish for the polishing oils, and then seal with a quality wax or paint sealant. Then periodically repeat this process.
If you see light oxidation, use the #9 Swirl Remover not as a swirl remover even though it can do this too, but because it's rich in polishing oils and also contains some light diminishing abrasives to abrade off the oxidation. This will also perfectly prepare the paint for re-application of a wax or paint sealant.
Most coatings are specific to modern automotive clear coats, so that's why you might find it easier and simpler just to use basic polishes and waxes on your single stage paint.
zmcgovern45
New member
- Sep 5, 2012
- 3,443
- 0
Wow - I'm impressed.
dannythekid
New member
- Jul 24, 2007
- 235
- 0
Your walkthrough and pics make it look so quick and easy!
Nice job on it, it looks good!
Nice job on it, it looks good!
rops:pointillistic_practitioner
New member
- Jul 12, 2011
- 443
- 0
That's amazing!
[email protected]
New member
- Feb 4, 2012
- 92
- 0
That is great haha looks good.
steamshooter
New member
- Jun 7, 2010
- 135
- 0
Outstanding! Yours and a blue and white Corvair I've run across on the net are about the best I've seen. Ten thumbs up! :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2:
tuscarora dave
Active member
- Aug 21, 2009
- 5,408
- 12
Very nice job!! I've dabbled with roller painting some older cars but I've never been patient enough to get the outstanding results that you have on your Benz. That's just too cool. Awesome job on the wheels too!!
What is the actual name of the rustoleum product that you used on the wheels? I need to get some of that at my shop.
What is the actual name of the rustoleum product that you used on the wheels? I need to get some of that at my shop.
