Before I begin let me just say that yes I messed up. Please I already know I messed up so lets spare the comments. I am a newbie and attempted to wet sand off a light scratch on my paint. It was super small so I did it by hand. I believe I took to much off or not in uniform because the spot that I did looks a totally different shade then the rest of the car. Its a dark grey car and it now looks like its a sun spot. I wish I could post a picture for everyone to see. Any suggestion on how to get the paint to blend in? Or did I pretty much just ruin my paint?
Messed up wet sanding, please help
- Thread starter aburgeson
- Start date
swanicyouth
New member
- Mar 3, 2011
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The panel needs a repaint.
Tato
New member
- Nov 27, 2013
- 2,157
- 0
Looking from here (listen, from here), and not knowing exactly how you wet-sanded (which grit you used?), and how you tried to buff it out by machine, looks messy.
Looking from here (listen, from here), looks like you just need to refine your sanding, then remove sanding marks by polishing by machine. You have not got rid of sanding pattern you used, and the path of the 'damage' seems exactly where you sanded.
Even if you screwed something, it's unlikely you 'screw so uniformly', like un-removed wet sanding pattern may be.
I imagine you have an opportunity to save it, if my second hypothesis is right. But don't increase hope based on this.
Also, always try least abrasive method first.
Give more explanation on what you've done for us to keep investigating. Don't make a move before being 101% certain what you'll be doing. Sometimes, you may have just 1 chance to fix an issue safely.
Kind Regards.
Looking from here (listen, from here), looks like you just need to refine your sanding, then remove sanding marks by polishing by machine. You have not got rid of sanding pattern you used, and the path of the 'damage' seems exactly where you sanded.
Even if you screwed something, it's unlikely you 'screw so uniformly', like un-removed wet sanding pattern may be.
I imagine you have an opportunity to save it, if my second hypothesis is right. But don't increase hope based on this.
Also, always try least abrasive method first.
Give more explanation on what you've done for us to keep investigating. Don't make a move before being 101% certain what you'll be doing. Sometimes, you may have just 1 chance to fix an issue safely.
Kind Regards.
- Thread starter
- #5
I used 3m 2500 grit paper. I soaked it in water for 20mins. The area was small and yes the damage is all done to where I wet sanded. I used just my two fingers to try to remove the scratch. I think this is where I might have went wrong. I tried to keep my pressure pretty uniform but feel I might have pushed down too hard. I dont understand what you mean by sanding marks? I dont see any swirls or scratches. just difference in color
- Thread starter
- #10
sanding scratches can look like discolored paint? cause the surface is smooth to the touch. the car is a 2010 subaru wrx, idk if that matters. And if I dont have the 105 is there another substitute? I have 3m rubbing compound as well as turtle wax rubbing compound
swanicyouth
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- Mar 3, 2011
- 9,388
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Idk if this picture will load. But its worth a try
That pic looks to me like you went through the clear coat.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
Are you seeing the color of the paint coming off the car where you're buffing and onto the face of your buffing pad?
If so, that means you've sanded and buffed through the clear layer and are now buffing on the colored layer of paint.
The only remedy for this is a re-paint.
If the area is just dull and cloudy, this means you haven't removed your sanding marks completely. Continue buffing with some of the recommendations from others in this thread.
Modern clearcoats are hard compared to single stage paints before 1980, this means it's going to require some umph to abrade the paint to remove them.
Remember,
"Sanding is easy, that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting them out" -Mike Phillips
:xyxthumbs:
If so, that means you've sanded and buffed through the clear layer and are now buffing on the colored layer of paint.
The only remedy for this is a re-paint.
If the area is just dull and cloudy, this means you haven't removed your sanding marks completely. Continue buffing with some of the recommendations from others in this thread.
Modern clearcoats are hard compared to single stage paints before 1980, this means it's going to require some umph to abrade the paint to remove them.
Remember,
"Sanding is easy, that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting them out" -Mike Phillips
:xyxthumbs:
Niblick
New member
- May 22, 2014
- 337
- 0
the reason i asked is because certain car manufactures, and Japanese paints in particular tend to be very soft. its relatively easy to sand through the clearcoat if you're not careful. from the sounds of it, thats exactly what you've done.
Tato
New member
- Nov 27, 2013
- 2,157
- 0
Have you tried rubbing UC by hand to a small area of your 'damage'?
- Take a clear color Microfiber towel;
- Fold it in two, then 'roll over' the pulp and tip of 1 or 2 fingers, depending the way you feel better working by hand. Thumb may do it as well.
- Add 2-3 small drops of UC on your 'finger applicator'
- 'Deliver' the product over a small part of your 'damage'.
- Work the product with passion, use some pressure, and arm speed trying to reach the speed of light (kkkk)
Do this for 2-3 up/down movements, stop, and re-inspect your MF towel.
Is the color of the car 'blending' in the MF towel? Or is it clear?
If you notice the color in MF towel, then you really screwed.
If you don't, try to work a bit more the compound and see if this way you may improve the overall appearance of the area.
If you improved, do a step by machine with your M205 and finishing pad to 'erase' the signs someone done what you did.
However, if you 'burnt' the paint while you managed to remove sanding marks (common if inexperienced working compound and cutting pad on such small area), you'll see no improvement scrubbing the compound in there. Although a burn may be superficial (not strike through, the color will not blend in the MF), the removal may be unviable. Protect it and learn from it.
Tip for buffing such small areas with cutting pad and compound: Work few passes, and stop, check area temperature, continue when heat dissipated. Second Tip: spread the polish and work it in a larger area so you can help spreading heat without much build up. You may work a 'far area without pressure at all', putting the pressure again when over the desired area. Even this way, stop and check temperature. Third tip: always try to refine sanding marks to 3000 or even better, 5000. Fourth: If such small area, do a first approach to remove sanding marks by hand, minimizing even more the machine efforts aggressively. Use the machine to improve the finish, always if possible.
So, try to use this reasonable above and test a small area to get more info on what's left.
Kind regards.
- Take a clear color Microfiber towel;
- Fold it in two, then 'roll over' the pulp and tip of 1 or 2 fingers, depending the way you feel better working by hand. Thumb may do it as well.
- Add 2-3 small drops of UC on your 'finger applicator'
- 'Deliver' the product over a small part of your 'damage'.
- Work the product with passion, use some pressure, and arm speed trying to reach the speed of light (kkkk)
Do this for 2-3 up/down movements, stop, and re-inspect your MF towel.
Is the color of the car 'blending' in the MF towel? Or is it clear?
If you notice the color in MF towel, then you really screwed.
If you don't, try to work a bit more the compound and see if this way you may improve the overall appearance of the area.
If you improved, do a step by machine with your M205 and finishing pad to 'erase' the signs someone done what you did.
However, if you 'burnt' the paint while you managed to remove sanding marks (common if inexperienced working compound and cutting pad on such small area), you'll see no improvement scrubbing the compound in there. Although a burn may be superficial (not strike through, the color will not blend in the MF), the removal may be unviable. Protect it and learn from it.
Tip for buffing such small areas with cutting pad and compound: Work few passes, and stop, check area temperature, continue when heat dissipated. Second Tip: spread the polish and work it in a larger area so you can help spreading heat without much build up. You may work a 'far area without pressure at all', putting the pressure again when over the desired area. Even this way, stop and check temperature. Third tip: always try to refine sanding marks to 3000 or even better, 5000. Fourth: If such small area, do a first approach to remove sanding marks by hand, minimizing even more the machine efforts aggressively. Use the machine to improve the finish, always if possible.
So, try to use this reasonable above and test a small area to get more info on what's left.
Kind regards.
- Thread starter
- #20
Well sadly the test you mentioned confirms I have went through my clear coat. The microfiber had dark grey have applying some pressure and a few passes. So for next time, so I learn from my mistakes, should I start with a higher grit sandpaper? And how much pressure should I be applying? I dont want to give up since I really love detailing my car