05xrunner
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- Jun 11, 2009
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I was gonna ask about what to use..Are you guys just washing them with the same Microfiber detergent we use for the towels? or something else?Yes and yes.
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I was gonna ask about what to use..Are you guys just washing them with the same Microfiber detergent we use for the towels? or something else?Yes and yes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was gonna ask about what to use..Are you guys just washing them with the same Microfiber detergent we use for the towels? or something else?
And the reality is, that's the best any of us can hope for in this game. There are just too many variables for any one system to be the "be all and end all" for anyone.No system is perfect, I'm not looking for a perfect system. I'm looking for the system that I think works the best and take it from there. These are just tools to help us achieve what we are after.
People do get a bit passionate about all this, don't they? And yet, using such a wide variety of tools, liquids, pads, etc we see plenty of people achieving outstanding results on a wide variety of paint systems. Only so much of the process can come out of a bottle - the guy behind the buffer still has to understand the process and know what he's doing. At the end of the day, if the defects are gone and the paint looks gorgeous (and the customer is happy), it doesn't make one bit of difference how you got there. Well, as long as you didn't sand the clear down to the last molecular layer!!I don't get what all the fuss is about either. Some people like 105/205, some people like Menzerna/Wolfgang. The 2 are not in the same boat pricewise but people are able to discuss them in harmony...
Did I miss something in the last dozen reviews I read?
Are these pads really machine washable/dryable?
Wash them exactly the same way as you do your microfiber towels. Heck wash 'em with your microfiber towels if you want to. If you use a specialized microfiber specific detergent, that's fine. If you just go with an over the counter laundry detergent, that's fine too.I was gonna ask about what to use..Are you guys just washing them with the same Microfiber detergent we use for the towels? or something else?
I understand where you are coming from spicy. I think to be a wise consumer you have to listen to others and then after that make your own conclusions. This system really could be the greatest thing since sliced bread or it could be a less dusty version of 105/surbuf... who knows.
I will say I am anxious to try it out and to see what it can do. I might make my sisters car the test dummy. I want to really put this system to the test to see if it really is "worth" it and if it is a valuable weapon to have in your back pocket. I dont believe this will replace anyting in my arsenal but possibly be a "go to" product.
When I get it in I will compare results to several other products that many would reach for prior to getting the MF system and I will try and do a good write up/review from an unbiased perspective
I don't recall if the specific combinations you mention have been tested, but guys have used M105 and M86 with the cutting disc, and I have personally used D301 with a foam finishing pad on ridiculously sensitive paint, all with excellent results. We love seeing people experiment - that's one of the reasons M105 has become so popular! Remember, that was designed primarily for use with a wool pad via rotary on fresh paint. But look at how many people are using it with foam pads on a D/A. Heck, even though we're recommending the DA Microfiber Correction System for use on factory cured paint only, that London Cab we did (referenced in the intro post over on MOL) has a 5 year old single stage respray. While that paint was pretty delicate, the system performed beautifully on it.Hey Stoops .. As you know folks like to experiment (me included /105+205=WOW) ..
Did anyone of the testers report back with playing outside the box with the MF DA Compound with a regular polishing pad? and what were the results .... AND
Did anyone of the testers report back with playing outside the box with the MF DA Compound and a Surbuf pad? and what were the results
experimenting minds wants to know
You bring up some very valid points. If you're just taking care of your own car and once a year it just needs some light touching up, then yes, this system may well be overkill. If you have very delicate paint and you know that you don't need anything more aggressive than M205/foam polishing pad, or maybe Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0, Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover, etc then why go more aggressive?everyone seems to be comparing the cutting pads to surbuffs. I'm assuming these pads are comparable in aggressiveness to a yellow pad or wood pad on a rotary? If so, isn't that a bit of overkill in terms of people who have softer paint or correct a couple times a year?
I mean I can see where a bit more aggressiveness, for ppl that use DAs only, means less passes and a faster detail, but now I'm getting nervous about being unable to dial down the aggressiveness if I need to. The only option I have when compounding (short of using different products) is to limit the pressure and passes I guess...
While it is very specific in design, we also knew when we placed it in the hands of guys like Nick Chapman, David Fermani and Todd Helme that experimentation would run rampant! If you know these guys at all you know they can't stay inside any box for very long! They've gotten excellent results with a variety of liquids, depending on how a particular paint responded.i would like to see how versatile the products can be-meaning can you use these polishs and pads with other products and pads ? otherwise it seems to be very specific in design
That last statement has some validity to it. While it seems from those who tested this system and have a lot of first hand knowledge of Surbuf/M105, the S/M105 cuts faster but tends to leave more haze. But since that haze cleans up easily, it's really no big deal. The potential "big deal" comes from the far, far greater life expectancy of the DA Microfiber discs and the almost complete absence of dust.I understand where you are coming from spicy. I think to be a wise consumer you have to listen to others and then after that make your own conclusions. This system really could be the greatest thing since sliced bread or it could be a less dusty version of 105/surbuf... who knows.
Look at it more as a bridging of the gap between DA and rotary work. For large volume reconditioning facilities it's a huge time saver, and they don't have to do extensive rotary training for their workforce. On the other end of the spectrum the "average Joe" who maybe doesn't spend a lot of time polishing paint (maybe just his own car once a year and his neighbors a couple of times) and is maybe struggling to refine his techniques in order to achieve the results he really wants, this system can be an enormous benefit. In between these, the pro detailer is going to decide how this fits into his arsenal, when the best time is to use it, when it's too aggressive, and when he really needs to reach for the rotary.But this product is not intended to replace the rotary. It may produce rotary-like results, but it's not a direct replacement. So who is the intended target for this product? The average Joe? If that's the case then he now has a tool that can produce rotary-like results without the dangers of using a rotary. This product also sounds promising for a amateurs, like myself, that mostly do 2-step corrections.
Using only a brush for pad cleaning I've corrected several cars using no more than two cutting discs and one finishing disc. But I brush the cutting discs after every section pass.General question: If we don't have access to compressed air, how many pads should we have to do an entire car?
As noted above, if you're cleaning the pad with either air, a brush or even a pad washer, you can correct the whole car with just a couple of pads.Was the recommendation earlier to clean each MF pad (w/air) between each panel?
If that's so, then you would need a minimum of eight pads, if my math is correct.
1 - Hood
1 - Trunk
4 - Fenders
2 - Two Doors
This takes me back to when M105 was first introduced and we were working on the Alpine boat project for CES. I asked Joe Fernandez of Superior Shine how he liked M105. Funny guy he his, he looked me right in the eye and said "I hate it". When I asked why, he just held that steely gaze and said, totally deadpan, "because it makes someone like you look like you're as good as me." Funny guy, that Joe.It's just another pad system that happens to have specifically engineered compounds/polishes. I think some are threatened by the sensationalism following this product for a couple reasons:
1) They fear it may make their large investment in existing pads, products, machines obsolete
2) That is makes paint correction so easy that the learning curve is so shortened that craftsmen are not as essential and anyone can start performing their work
Both views I think are irrational.
While I personally have no first hand experience using this system with the Flex 3401, all the feedback we have from test users is that it does cut faster but doesn't leave as nice a finish (ie, it tends to haze more in the compounding phase). Now, since this hazing tends to be pretty easy to clean up that's probably not a real issue for most. But the finishing disc and finishing wax used on this tool may still leave some hazing behind, depending on the paint. Again, probably not a big deal - use the D300 Compound with the cutting disc to quickly knock down the defects and then follow with your favorite foam pad and finishing polish prior to applying your LSP. On very hard paint this probably won't be an issue, but the more delicate the paint the greater the probability.Michael, can you give me any of your first hand info on using the system 300/mf with the Flex 3401? Did you notice a lesser finish than that of the other DAs you used?
This is one of the best threads I've read. Thanks again for starting this Spicy. For those getting upset about any negativity from anyone forget about that. Focus on the incredible amount of information this puppy has produced!
Thanks David. I did a car this weekend with SurBuf/105 - Tangerine HT/205 and gray VC/PO 85RD. One of the panels I skipped the 205 on and the 85RD removed the Surbuff holograms and looked the same as the others. That was the first time I tried this on any paint..
Thanks for the heads up. I wasn't sure... Geez, check in every couple days and you miss a lot around here.
I rarely do an intermediate step after surbuf/105 unless I'm doing a full 3 step correction (which means I would do an intermediate step no matter what the first step was). I have had great luck finishing after surbuf/105 with both Menz 106fa and PO85rd.
So since my Mustang is jet black..Does that mean it probably wont finish down as good on my car as it does on some others and have to follow up with a HT pad or something?
Well either you have had really good luck or only used limited products fromt their lineup as they do have a couple "duds". G110, V2, consumer items, etc.
That company started to sink by the end of 09.
But they must be filthy rich with all the 105/205 they sell and will be laughing to the bank the first two weeks after this system is released.