Micromarring with FLEX 3401

Mikertt

Mikertt

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Hey guys & girls reading this. Any of you have any experience with using the FLEX 3401 and getting micromarring no matter which pads are used? I was working on a 2003 Mercedes E320 with black paint which was filled with swirls and some RIDS. I started out with the FLEX using some LC CCS orange pads. My compound was some M105 mixed with Ultimate Compound to keep the dust down. I saw it was micromarring so I figured out that I would knock it out with M205. I went to an LC CCS white polishing pad and then wow, it made things even worse and then left a trail of where the buffer had been moving. Not to mention wiping off the polish became really bad and some of it was stuck on. I tried all the finishing pads and still couldn't get the micromarring out of it. I was so pissed and decided to go back to my trusty PC with a Cobra cross-groove white pad and then BAM! It knocked out the micromarring on speed 6. The FLEX was micromarring even at lower speeds. I tried different speeds but, nothing would work. Anybody had the same experience or know what it causing the FLEX to mar the paint?

Thanx!
 
you could try a different pad and polish combination. Like a lake country hybrid polishing pad with Menzera 106FA instead of M-205. Even try a finishing pad with M-205 see if that would work by doing a test spot.
 
I've never had problems with micro-marring with the Flex on a finishing step.

Did you use enough polish? Buffing dry can cause micro-marring. Also the Flex works out the polish way faster than a PC.
 
I m wondering how many section passes did you work?
 
FFguy808 said:
I've never had problems with micro-marring with the Flex on a finishing step.

Did you use enough polish? Buffing dry can cause micro-marring. Also the Flex works out the polish way faster than a PC.
Click to expand...

:iagree:
 
I used 6 section passes with M205 on the white CCS pad and used pretty much the same amount of polish on the pad as I did last time when I used the PC only. This is a used 2003 Mercedes that we got in 2006 and I think we are 2nd owner of the car. I've only polished the car once in the time we've had it but only a few panels using the PC and LC CCS pads. I primed the pad initially and then three dime sized drops near the edges. Only reason I decided to use the FLEX was because I had never used it before and heard about what it can do. You guys could also be right about the polish drying out on the pad fast and dry buffing. I felt like the FLEX worked a lot hotter than my PC. Going back to the PC with a 6 inch backing plate and a 6.5" inch Cobra Cross-Groove white pad did the job running on speed 6. The cleaned up the micromarred areas. I just can't put my finger on what is causing the marring when using the FLEX. I feel like the ceramiclear is okay since it did clean up with the PC. I'm starting to think it might be the heat from the machine. What do pad combo do you people use with M205 on the FLEX?
 
I would use the lake country hybrid foam pads or the hydrotech pads with the flex xc3401vrg.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
Mikertt said:
I felt like the FLEX worked a lot hotter than my PC.

Going back to the PC with a 6 inch backing plate and a 6.5" inch Cobra Cross-Groove white pad did the job running on speed 6. The cleaned up the micromarred areas. I just can't put my finger on what is causing the marring when using the FLEX.

I'm starting to think it might be the heat from the machine. What do pad combo do you people use with M205 on the FLEX?
Click to expand...

Just a quick question, on what speed are you working the Flex? On a PC, you have to do move the PC longer than the Flex, did u try to move and lessen the pressure the Flex on your last section pass(jeweling)? Also remember that m205 has longer working time than most finishing polish.

I usually use the White Buff n shine 6" flat pad with m205 no problem

Try polishing without counting section passes but rather stop when u feel that you work out the polish(when it looks clear) ready to wipe and do an inspect.

Good luck:props:
 
I tried the FLEX on speeds 4, 5, and 6 on different panels. Same results. I always lessen the pressure to try and jewel on the last two passes. Seems like a few of you are saying the hybrid pads will work better with the FLEX huh? Also, I'm having some weird uneven areas on the hood after applying Mother's Step 3 and wiping away. Any ideas what the problem might be? I applied it over NXT that has been on for 24 hours. I machine applied with an LC flat grey pad and then buffed with a Meg's bonnet. Left what looks to be like a very fine micro marring problem for me now :doh: Again this is with the FLEX machine and I ran it on speed 4 to remove wax with the bonnet that is clean and washed. Either I'm having bad luck or this machine has a higher learning curve than I thought.

Oh and thank you all for trying your best to give me advice, I could really use it at this stage of this nightmare project.

It made working on my 91 Saturn SL2 look like a cakewalk compared to all the problems I've run into here. Used a PC for that with LC microfiber pads and Cobra Cross-Groove polishing pads, and came out perfect. Different car, different paint system...
 
I wasn't aware Meguiar's made a bonnet. I might suggest stop using the bonnet to remove wax. Speed 4 is also fairly fast and perhaps too aggressive. Using M205, a soft pad and your Flex set at 3 should be good combination working the M205 gently and with a light touch until it becomes clear.

Remove the M205 with a microfiber, folded in fourths, changing sides often.

Next use a 3-4" pad with your PC set on 3 to apply wax or by hand. Again wipe off with a quality microfiber, folded in fourths, changing sides often.

As an example of project I just completed: Using a PC and a microfiber DA and D300 and M105 to remove significant marring. Two separate sets of passes, one at speed 5 and then speed 3. Follow that with a Flex set at 5 and a firm polishing pad and M205. Follow that with a Flex and that same firmness of pad at speed 3. Then finally follow that with a Flex set at speed 5 and a soft finishing pad and then using speed 3 and that same grade of soft pad. Top it off with wax applied by a PC at speed 3 and a 3-4" finishing pad. It's all progressive from coarse correction to gentle finishing and micro-marring fades away.
 
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Oops. Let me correct myself - a PC, a microfiber DA pad and D300 and M105 can "create" significant marring. Using a Flex and M205 was able to remove said marring.

Also suggest review the discussion of CeramiClear and also search the forums for a discussion of "delicate" paint.
 
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