Mike Phillips PBL Paint and Surface Coating Application Technique

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Mike Phillips PBL Paint and Surface Coating Application Technique




The PBL Twins

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From the For What it's Worth File

Here's how I apply the Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating and Surface Coating. Instead of using a conventional coating applicator, for the Diamond Paint Coating I use a simple round yellow foam applicator pad and mark it like you see. For the Surface Coating - I cut a normal 16" by 16" microfiber towel into quarters and then mark one side and then use the other side.

The reason I do this is because it's simple. It's also quick, fast and easy. I also use or waste minimal product soaking into other types of applicators or cloths.

I think the pictures speak for themselves. I'll take some pictures showing me using these two products with these two different application methods next time I have a worthy car in the garage.


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Besides not loading up an applicator or towel, (think a normal towel folded 4-ways, this could soak up a LOT of product), if you drop either the round yellow foam applicator or the towel - because you've MARKED one side. If the marked side lands face down - I don't know about you but I'm picking it up, inspecting it and if the working side still looks good - I going back to use it. It's already DAMPENED with the coating I'm applying.


Feel free to ask questions if you want more clarification. :)





On Autogeek.com


Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating - $79.99

Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating - $130.00

Cobra Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloths - 12 Pack - $20.00

6 Pack Pinnacle Foam Wax Applicators - $9.99





:)
 
More...

Normally when using the PBL Twins, I'll install the Paint Coating first and then top with the Surface Coating about an hour later or the next day, (depends on how long the car is here).


Then down the road, after a normal wash and dry - I'll use the microfiber towel, (marked of course), and hit the car from about my waist up using the Surface Coating. This is fast and easy and not only does it keep the car looking great and feeling slippery, it maintains maximum water beading, (easy-peasy), and of course maintains the protection.


I'm not a s set-it and forget it guy. I think a car LOOKS BEST when you do something once in a while.



:)
 
And...


For anyone wanting a simple and SAFE way to maintain your ceramic coated car - here's how I do and an article to show you what I use.



Things you need to wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips


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As long as you PURPOSEFULLY are PRO-ACTIVE about keeping your washing towels clean - this is about as safe as you can get when it comes to washing or TOUCHING your coated car's paint.

You MUST have a system or a protocol in place to keep your washing towels, drying towels and basically ANYTHING that touches the paint clean and uncontaminated.




:)
 
Mike, when you cut towels like that, don't you have issues with lint? All these edgeless towels lint quite a bit when new due to no stitching on the edges, and that gets better with time. I'm thinking with a fresh cut on the towel like that lint will come from those edges?
 
BSoares said:
Mike, when you cut towels like that, don't you have issues with lint?

All these edgeless towels lint quite a bit when new due to no stitching on the edges, and that gets better with time. I'm thinking with a fresh cut on the towel like that lint will come from those edges?
Click to expand...


Could just be me as I don't notice it much or pay it that much attention to it. Any lint will blow off when I drive the car, my experience is its a very temporary thing.


Next time I use one of the sections I've cut up and have been using for months now - I'll look closer and pay closer attention and update you in this thread. The BIGGER picture for me is simply having a method that quick, fast and easy and doesn't waste product.


Good question - thank you for asking.


:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Could just be me as I don't notice it much or pay it that much attention to it. Any lint will blow off when I drive the car, my experience is its a very temporary thing.


Next time I use one of the sections I've cut up and have been using for months now - I'll look closer and pay closer attention and update you in this thread. The BIGGER picture for me is simply having a method that quick, fast and easy and doesn't waste product.

Good question - thank you for asking.


:)
Click to expand...

Thanks. The reason I asked is when I'm doing a coating I want to avoid any and all lint if I can. Day to day it's not as bad but I still try to use towels that don't give me any lint.

I definitely agree with the perspective of making the towels a manageable size and avoiding waste.
 
BSoares said:
Mike, when you cut towels like that, don't you have issues with lint?

All these edgeless towels lint quite a bit when new due to no stitching on the edges, and that gets better with time. I'm thinking with a fresh cut on the towel like that lint will come from those edges?
Click to expand...


:updated:


Hey Bruce,

I'm using this technique on a dark colored old 2-door Chevy this weekend, I'll pay attention for lint and let you know what I find.

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:)
 
BSoares said:
Thanks! I see you’re back to calling me Bruce instead of Bruno :D
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Well I got the "b" part right. :D


Did some thinking about this car and have decided to NOT use a ceramic coating on it. This is a high-end streetrod. While it's a Garage Queen, it doesn't need 9H and 10 year protection.

What it needs is an approach that will enable the owner to work on it into the future. With true ceramic coating, it gets complicated for the average person to fix future defects due to the longer, more complicated process.

With a one-step cleaner/wax and a topper - all the complications are removed.


Genius :idea:


After I'm done, if needed - the owner can fix future scratches, swirls, etc. with a simple Porter Cable 7424XP and the same product I use.



:D
 
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