Mini Review - Paintwork Polish Enhancer

alowe

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While waiting for a clients second coat of DGPS to cure, I decided to wash/clay/wash/strip/wax my ride.

Dwayne was nice to send me Wolfgangs PPE and Auto Bathe to try as I was having issues with Fuzion.

My car is taken care of very well, lets say OCD care. So I foamed with DP Xtreme foam, dwelled for 10 then rinces. Washed with ## citrus. Clayed with Megs white clay, rewashed same process. Dried and cracks blown out with 250 mph blower. Car was clean and squeaky. Clay did not pick up THAT much, due to car being polished in late May. I normally wash every week and use FK425 every other day, like I said OCD.

Applied PPE to a fresh out of the bag 6.5 CCS White pad. Did not prime or mist with anything. Just applied 3 nickel sized dots, dabbed a bit on the paint to spread, and went at it at 4.5 on the PC.

It was VERY easy to apply and in a minute or so started to go translucent. Did the whole car (VW GTI 4dr) in about 40 minutes. Waited about 10 minutes and buffed off. Easy on, easy off.

I thought my paint was clean after the process above, but take a look at the pad, I think it had a bit of dirt on the paint, what do you think?
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After that a coat of DGPS was applied, cured for 1 hour and buffed off. Still need to apply another coat tomorrow, then a coat of Fuzion.

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Let me know if you need anymore info on this wonderful product!

Thanks guys,

Andrew
 
I thought my paint was clean after the process above, but take a look at the pad, I think it had a bit of dirt on the paint, what do you think?


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Looks like you're working on a single stage gray paint. If each panel is completely clear coated, (and it look like it and there's no reason for it not to be), then it looks like some pretty dirty paint.

Sure is gray in color though?


:)
 
Yup, each panel is clear. I could not believe how it looked after I finished. I used megs clay and have always had nice results with it. I am not saying the clay did not do a good job, because it did pick up a bit of crud the wash did not take off. I have never used a paint "cleaner" before, but I must say I am very impressed.

Any idea if an IPA wipedown would have done anything to remove the dirt hidden in the paint?

I am just SO amazed what was on top of the paint, that the clay did not remove.

I need to try this out on my other cars.
 
IMO I think al that dirt was caused by the "Washed with ## citrus" step........:joking::laughing::D:laughing::D
 
Yup, each panel is clear. I could not believe how it looked after I finished.

Paint does get dirty and that's the job of a paint cleaner to loosen, abrade and remove any dirt scum and road film that has built-up on the surface.

What's in the air where the car is parked?
Do you drive this car in a rainy metropolitan area?

Any idea if an IPA wipe down would have done anything to remove the dirt hidden in the paint?


I am just SO amazed what was on top of the paint, that the clay did not remove.

Here's something along these lines that's kind of interesting.

If you are working on an oxidized single stage paint, you want to remove the oxidation with some kind of paint cleaner first and then use detailing clay otherwise you'll simply load your clay up with dead paint.

After using a paint cleaner most people think they shouldn't have to clay because they think the paint cleaner will have removed any bonded contaminants at the same time and while it will remove some bonded contaminants it usually won't remove all bonded contaminants and claying the paint after cleaning it will reveal to you eyes the contaminants that were still on the paint after the paint cleaner.

Somewhere I have a picture that shows just this thing.

So usually if a car is a daily driver it really needs to have both steps performed just to insure your down to a fresh base of paint.


:)
 
Paint does get dirty and that's the job of a paint cleaner to loosen, abrade and remove any dirt scum and road film that has built-up on the surface.

What's in the air where the car is parked?
Do you drive this car in a rainy metropolitan area?






Here's something along these lines that's kind of interesting.

If you are working on an oxidized single stage paint, you want to remove the oxidation with some kind of paint cleaner first and then use detailing clay otherwise you'll simply load your clay up with dead paint.

After using a paint cleaner most people think they shouldn't have to clay because they think the paint cleaner will have removed any bonded contaminants at the same time and while it will remove some bonded contaminants it usually won't remove all bonded contaminants and claying the paint after cleaning it will reveal to you eyes the contaminants that were still on the paint after the paint cleaner.

Somewhere I have a picture that shows just this thing.

So usually if a car is a daily driver it really needs to have both steps performed just to insure your down to a fresh base of paint.


:)


Thanks for the reply Mike. I live in an old town nowhere near a large city, founded in 1780, my home is about as old.

Reading what you posted, are you saying that the cleaner should be used first, then clay after?

Andrew
 
I must say Wolfgang really made your paint pop, I always find it amazing that we "think" our paint is clean till you start working on it and your pads look like that!
 
Reading what you posted, are you saying that the cleaner should be used first, then clay after?

Andrew

Only if you are working on an oxidized single stage paint. On clear coat paints clay first, after washing and drying of course.
 
I must say Wolfgang really made your paint pop, I always find it amazing that we "think" our paint is clean till you start working on it and your pads look like that!

Only if you are working on an oxidized single stage paint. On clear coat paints clay first, after washing and drying of course.


Thanks guys! And Dwayne, I will give you "Props" for sending me the Wolfgang products to help me with my Fuzion issue. Seems to have been the pollen that was the culprit. I will however, promote Wolfgangs PPE to anyone!!! Proof is in that pad, I take great care of my cars, and did not expect to have that much dirt come off the paint. Next is to do my Explorer, an 2006.

Then I plan to do a full detail on my single stage 1970 Chevelle SS. Paint not original, but a gorgeous metallic blue with wide white stripes down the top!

Andrew
 
great product and also clearly proves an effective product. You should have a bottle of this or Pinnacles Paintwork Lotion on hand all the time IMO.
 
Looks like you ran the pad over the rubber moldings. My pads have NEVER looked like that after buffing a car with a B/C. Claying should remove the contaminants.
 
I have a question about using PPE over DGPS.

According to the product page I can use it to clean away wax and dirt before I layer on more wax.

Use Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer before using Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant for the first time and periodically thereafter to maximize the gloss and brilliance of your vehicle’s paint finish.

I need to know for sure that the PPE will not remove the DGPS.

My cars look totally stunning with the WG combinations.

Thanks!
 
I have a question about using PPE over DGPS.

According to the product page I can use it to clean away wax and dirt before I layer on more wax.

Use Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer before using Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant for the first time and periodically thereafter to maximize the gloss and brilliance of your vehicle’s paint finish.

I need to know for sure that the PPE will not remove the DGPS.

My cars look totally stunning with the WG combinations.

Thanks!
Re-read what you wrote. It says use it before using DGPS. It will remove any LSP on a vehicle(wax and/or sealant). Use periodically to shine up your paint, but it wil remove the sealant each time.:dblthumb2:
 
Re-read what you wrote. It says use it before using DGPS. It will remove any LSP on a vehicle(wax and/or sealant). Use periodically to shine up your paint, but it wil remove the sealant each time.:dblthumb2:

That's not what I wrote!..LOL

So there is no advantage to periodic use after DGPS except to start over.

That's why I'm asking. The bottles come with very vague instructions so it's best to be sure.

For example, the DGPS doesn't even mention the 45 minute dry time on the bottle, but that's a very important part of the process.

It's time to develop Technical Date Sheets for these products in PDF downloads.

I'm doing my own as I learn from experiences and feedback here. I'm a perfectionist painter, not an auto detailer. :dunno:

Thanks!
 
The part above what you quoted from the product page says:


The removal of old paint protection will encourage maximum bonding and gloss of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. This combination of products will leave your vehicle with an absolutely stunning shine.
 
The part above what you quoted from the product page says:


The removal of old paint protection will encourage maximum bonding and gloss of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. This combination of products will leave your vehicle with an absolutely stunning shine.

I see that. So it's not to be used periodically.

got it!
 
I see that. So it's not to be used periodically.

got it!
The sealant only gives a couple months protection. So, you can use the PPE before each application. That would technically be periodically.
 
The sealant only gives a couple months protection. So, you can use the PPE before each application. That would technically be periodically.


I was informed it was at least 6 months. Two months doesn't seem like it's worth the effort.
 
I was informed it was at least 6 months. Two months doesn't seem like it's worth the effort.
As with any LSP, it depends on the condition/elements. Meaning kept inside/outside, heat/cold, rain/snow, # of washes and etc. So I use "couple" loosely. Most LSP's will say "up to" for lasting ability. DGPS last a good amount of time. It's just dependant of things.
 
I recoat with Fuzion wax every two weeks. Does that prolong the DGPS?

If not, I need to do a complete detail prior to the Ohio winter.
 
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