i know i am suppose to try to get the best results while taking the least amount of clear coat off as possible. the how-to articles say to do 5-6 section passes. Wouldnt it make more sense to try to go a little more aggressive and do 2-3 section passes? is this possible? on another note, i detailed my first car the other day free of charge. white 350z, took 2 people and 6hrs to do inside and out.:buffing:
more aggressive/less passes
- Thread starter wallace03
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magna_power
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- May 13, 2012
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Read up about DAT and SMAT
AutowerxDetailing
New member
- Apr 10, 2012
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It really depends on the paint you are working on and what you are trying to achieve. Also, I highly recommend you do a test spot to see how your chosen pad/compound/technique will work. You may have to use more section passes than what the general rule of thumb suggests for paintwork that is really thrashed.
When I am aiming for full correction (95% or better), as my first step, I like to work with my da with a yellow or orange ccs on speed 5 for about 5 passes moving very slowly. For the first 4 passes I use very firm pressure over the pad and then ease back to moderate pressure on the last pass. Do a google search for the "kevin brown method" and you will see what I am talking about. There is other stuff too like correctly priming your pad, how much product to use, etc.
Sent from my LG-VM701 using AG Online
When I am aiming for full correction (95% or better), as my first step, I like to work with my da with a yellow or orange ccs on speed 5 for about 5 passes moving very slowly. For the first 4 passes I use very firm pressure over the pad and then ease back to moderate pressure on the last pass. Do a google search for the "kevin brown method" and you will see what I am talking about. There is other stuff too like correctly priming your pad, how much product to use, etc.
Sent from my LG-VM701 using AG Online
Bunky
Well-known member
- Jun 20, 2007
- 6,432
- 153
As said above, doing a test spot is the key to finding the optimum pad/polish combination.
The idea is to remove the swirls (level paint) while trying to minimize any added marring (from the pad, polish, technique) in the process. This way you minimize the paint removal when finishing.
The number of passes is related to the polish breakdown and does depend on type of polish (diminishing, non-diminishing).
If you really are risk averse to removing paint, the question is when to stop trying to remove every single swirl and say it is done.
The idea is to remove the swirls (level paint) while trying to minimize any added marring (from the pad, polish, technique) in the process. This way you minimize the paint removal when finishing.
The number of passes is related to the polish breakdown and does depend on type of polish (diminishing, non-diminishing).
If you really are risk averse to removing paint, the question is when to stop trying to remove every single swirl and say it is done.
addysdaddy
New member
- Jun 13, 2012
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Totally agree. Kevin is amazing and one of the leading authorities in the industry. Also take note of his pad cleaning method(s) which has made a significant difference in my results. Here's a link to his pad cleaning pdf. It can be a little heavy reading but I think you'll be rewarded in the end. http://www.buffdaddy.com/files/1519...Priming_and_Supplemental_Wetting_Agents-1.pdf