More circular polishers info

bejor77

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Hi All,

I have been looking around the forum for more info about the circular polishers. I own one, and used it a couple of times, but think I still need to learn more about it.

All the videos I've seen around are about PC, and I think it would be really good to have videos where a circular polisher is used with some of the products that AG offers, as may be not everyone of us needs a PC because they already own a circular polisher (as I do).

:cheers:
 
Thanks abrcrombe, I was thinking more about online videos, thanks anyway.

About being safer, yes I understand that, but having the circular already I prefer to learn to use it. :o
 
search google for "circular polisher video" and you will find a few results that you can watch for free. We aren't supposed to link to other sites so I gave you the one from AG. :) I also commend your ambition to learn how to use one, and it will be a great tool once you learn how to use it correctly.
 
A circular polisher is essentially the same as the DA in terms of use. Only the speeds are slow (RPM) and the results come faster.

Basically you want to work between 1200 and 1800 RPMs in an area that is 2x2. Work in the polish, It will work in MUCH faster, and once its gone you can to some serious damage to the paint. If i were you, I would get my hands on a junk panel and practice on that. That way you get the method down.

Some minor things,

-make sure you keep the orbital moving,
-Once you stop in a section, you must add more product before going further (never dry buff)
- Always polish flat, tiltin the Orbital will end up adding more swirls
-Remember less agressive combos, and build up.
- The weight of the orbital is the only pressure you need.

Happy polishing.
 
abrcrombe: Thanks for the tip, I'll check that out...

DS Detailer: I have already used the orbital a couple of times, once with my brother's car that is light gray, almost silver, but couldn't get rid of a few scratches it has and on my metalic black corolla and today I just saw a few lines I thought I got rid of.

I used only a very mild polish, 3M Swirl Remover wich I learned from here has a lot of fillers and also I didn't went over 500 RPM (I only used the first speed of the polisher), so it doesn't help that much. I thought about buying SSR3, SSR2.5 and SSR1. I've got already LC pads from Yellow to Blue, and from what you just said, may be I won't need such heavy compunds, just a bit more speed and the correct pad. Do you have any suggestions?

(sorry for the long post)
 
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Is there a difference between a PC and a Random Orbital Buffer?
 
Darren F said:
Is there a difference between a PC and a Random Orbital Buffer?

No. Porter Cable (PC) is just the most well known of the random orbitals. Cyclo is another. Dewalt offers one, and I believe Makita does also.
 
what is the main difference between the ones you guys are always talking about and the ones you can buy in a store like pep boys for $40?
 
Darren F said:
what is the main difference between the ones you guys are always talking about and the ones you can buy in a store like pep boys for $40?

speed sensitivity for one .... those big buffers are slow and only good for removing wax at best. A PC can be used for polishing, paint cleaning, and wax removal. A rotary (circular) is best for paint polishing alone, but very sensitive to speed and heat and can damage paint quite easily when used inappropriately.
 
do you need to practice with a PC or can someone first time out go and use it on their car without causing and damage?
 
Darren F said:
do you need to practice with a PC or can someone first time out go and use it on their car without causing and damage?


I have never seen any damage done with a novice and PC, well unless they literally toss it at the car. That said, we do see alot of complaints after first use that it was not as expected. Because it transfer very little heat, and spins off axis, its take much longer for paint protection. Most forget to let the pad and polish do the work, they polish for 1 minute and wipe off with not a change in finish. Most panels will take 5-15 minutes of work each. Polishing, repolishing, and jeweling are needed, especially on black cars !
 
Darren F said:
which PC would you recommend?


Porter Cable .... its quite powerful, very easy to use, and seems bulletproof. At is cost (less than 150.00 anywhere) it should be a must have product. Now I am currently looking at the Cadillac of PC's the Cyclo, but still on the fence.
 
When you use a PC, do you need bonnets to cover the pads or do you apply the product directly to the pad? Are there different pads for different uses? If I were to buy a PC what pads, bonnets, ect... would I need to have to start?
 
how many RPM does it take to effectively remove swirl marks?
 
Darren F said:
When you use a PC, do you need bonnets to cover the pads or do you apply the product directly to the pad? Are there different pads for different uses? If I were to buy a PC what pads, bonnets, ect... would I need to have to start?

You use the polish directly on the pads, and pad choices vary in degrees of abrasiveness. You can choose the Edge line or the Lake Country (my fav) line. You will really only use bonnets for removal of products as wanted. I prefer to remove by hand with a good microfiber towel. If you go with Lake Country (Wolfgang) pads then consider one orange, one white, and two grey finishing. Always start with white (middle ground) and move up only as needed. With very little swirls , you might find yourself using the finishing pads most.

Darren F said:
how many RPM does it take to effectively remove swirl marks?

It takes alot of time, speed (setting 5-6), and patience to remove swirls with the PC. Because it does not transfer alot of heat (thats one reason PC is safer than rotary) it takes awhile. But great results can be had if you are willing to take the time. Review the video's and consider the next step ... taking one out for a spin !!!!
 
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