Most Cut / Best Finish

I do have the Lake Country Flat orange and white pads in my shopping cart.

At least I got that far with my research. Haha

Is it normal practice to use the same product with different pads on specific vehicle panels ? What I mean is, I was thinking about using orange pads on horizontal panels ( more correction needed probably ) for more cut. But, using white pads on vertical panels ( less correction ?) for less cut. All while using the same product.

Would there be a difference in how the same product finishes using 2 different pads ? Or is this not really a good idea ?
 
A lot of good advice here. Seeing as how you’ve never done this, I’d suggest goin with your BF or Speed for your first go round. Very low learning curve and can produce a great finish. Yes you can use a more aggressive pad for the horizontal sections and a white for the verticals. I have done similar and call it a 1.5 step. Just a 1 step on the sides but a 2 step (orange 1st, then white to polish) this on the large, horizontal panels. It all comes down to what you want and how much time and effort you want to expend.
Try not to overthink it. There is a lot of info these days and can become overwhelming. Pick your pad, product and enjoy the process.
 
Serenitynow said:
Yes. I do realize that 2 of them are " All-in- one" products.

But, I have read alot of reviews stating that the 3D Speed and Blackfire have pretty good cutting ability.
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So one way I cheat with BLACKFIRE One Step is I start with a foam CUTTING pad. This increases the cut of the product BUT on softer paints, a foam cutting pad can leave haze. That's not good nor professional if you do this for money.

So after using the cutting pad I simply re-do the panel using foam polishing pad. The "polishing" pad removes any haze inflicted by the foam cutting pad. This makes doing this panel a two step but the lazy part of me like how easy the BLACKFIRE One Step wipes off.

A good example of using this technique is when doing a one-step package on a daily driver. You do this to the primary panels, hood and trunk lid, while only using the foam polishing pad on the roof and vertical panels. The car looks GREAT, you reduced time and steps while making the job as easy as possible.


:)
 
I really like the FG 400 and it does finish well on hard clear coats, but Nissan clear coats have a reputation of being soft and with a black color on the background it could be challenging.

The work on the Cayenne is amazing but the clear coat on that Caynenne is probably much harder.
 
My wife's '13 Altima, white, is medium hard paint to correct. If it needed it, I would have no problem 1 stepping it with Menzerna HCC 400. I'd test spot it with a white LC pad first but wouldn't be surprised with what an orange pad might do depending on what's needed.

If I had what you have in front of me I would probably want to do 4 test spots...Sonax Perfect Finish/white pad, Sonax PF/orange pad, Menz 400/ white pad and finally Menz 400/orange pad.

I say all that but admit to not having tried BF AIO. Just offering what I'd do based on what I have used.

Additionally, if I remember correctly, both Sonax and Menzerna had manufacturer correction products in mind and specifically tailored their products to rotary machine use. I have put both product lines to use with both my Flex 3401 AND my Porter Cable DA and they work just fine with a dual action machine.
 
Paul A. said:
My wife's '13 Altima, white, is medium hard paint to correct. If it needed it, I would have no problem 1 stepping it with Menzerna HCC 400. I'd test spot it with a white LC pad first but wouldn't be surprised with what an orange pad might do depending on what's needed.

If I had what you have in front of me I would probably want to do 4 test spots...Sonax Perfect Finish/white pad, Sonax PF/orange pad, Menz 400/ white pad and finally Menz 400/orange pad.

I say all that but admit to not having tried BF AIO. Just offering what I'd do based on what I have used.

Additionally, if I remember correctly, both Sonax and Menzerna had manufacturer correction products in mind and specifically tailored their products to rotary machine use. I have put both product lines to use with both my Flex 3401 AND my Porter Cable DA and they work just fine with a dual action machine.
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That sounds like a solid plan....:xyxthumbs:
 
Paul A. said:
If I had what you have in front of me I would probably want to do 4 test spots...Sonax Perfect Finish/white pad, Sonax PF/orange pad, Menz 400/ white pad and finally Menz 400/orange pad.
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But, see that's the thing. I don't have anything yet.

I'm still in the planning/researching stage with this.

A couple weeks ago I did use Iron-X, washed with my new foam gun using Meguiars Gold Class shampoo, clayed using my new Blackfire Mitt, then finished off with Griots Spray Wax on everything except the tires.

It looked much better when finished ( and has stayed pretty clean since, considering it's outside 24/7 ) with this but still not where I want it. I know it will never be show car worthy, but I'd still like it to look the best I can get it.
 
Thanks Mike.

I've read that ( plus lots more ) and watched a lot of your videos several times.

I think I understand the process and basic equipment needed. I just need some help choosing the compound/polish/wax/protectant product.

With so many available on the market, it's really hard to decide on just one to try first.

There is another thread about frequency of using these products and their removal of paint thickness. That's another thing that I'm wondering about. How often can one use these products on their paint ? Are some of these products mentioned here able to be used more often than others ?

As I mentioned before, I'm new to this. So, I really don't know if I'll only need to use the compound/polish once and never again with proper washing. Or is it something I'll need to repeat several times a year ?

These, and product choice, are my main questions now . I think hahaha.
 
Serenitynow said:
Thanks Mike.

I've read that ( plus lots more ) and watched a lot of your videos several times.

I think I understand the process and basic equipment needed. I just need some help choosing the compound/polish/wax/protectant product.

With so many available on the market, it's really hard to decide on just one to try first.

There is another thread about frequency of using these products and their removal of paint thickness. That's another thing that I'm wondering about. How often can one use these products on their paint ? Are some of these products mentioned here able to be used more often than others ?

As I mentioned before, I'm new to this. So, I really don't know if I'll only need to use the compound/polish once and never again with proper washing. Or is it something I'll need to repeat several times a year ?

These, and product choice, are my main questions now . I think hahaha.
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If you haven't (didn't read all), i would go to your local junkyard or a phone market app and pick up a "black" hood, panel or door and practice on it
 
Ok guys and gals. Here's what my AG Shopping Cart consists of right now . The only things I'm missing are the compound/polish/wax part of the equation I think. Please let me know if I should change anything and why.

Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher

Lake Country backing plates 3" & 5"

12 pack of Lake Country Flat Foam Pads
6 orange & 6 white

Snappy Clean Pad Ckeaner 3 pack pouches

And from the Outlet Store section:

Gold Plush Jr Towels 6 pack

3" Flat Blue Finessing Foam Pads 4 each

5" Black Hybrid Power Finishing Pads 2 each

That's it for now. Again, I need to decide on compound/polish/wax product.

I'm kind of leaning toward the Blackfire One Step for ease and time saving. But, I don't know that I need 32 ounces of this. How much should I expect to use to do my midsize pickup truck ?

Thanks again to everyone for helping me with this. I really need and appreciate it.
 
Oh heck.
Just remembered. I'm going to need some Tar Remover too. I think I have some tree sap build up on the roof of my truck in the stiffening channels.
So, recommendations for this would be great also.
 
Serenitynow said:
Ok guys and gals. Here's what my AG Shopping Cart consists of right now . The only things I'm missing are the compound/polish/wax part of the equation I think. Please let me know if I should change anything and why.

Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher

Lake Country backing plates 3" & 5"

12 pack of Lake Country Flat Foam Pads
6 orange & 6 white

Snappy Clean Pad Ckeaner 3 pack pouches

And from the Outlet Store section:

Gold Plush Jr Towels 6 pack

3" Flat Blue Finessing Foam Pads 4 each

5" Black Hybrid Power Finishing Pads 2 each

That's it for now. Again, I need to decide on compound/polish/wax product.

I'm kind of leaning toward the Blackfire One Step for ease and time saving. But, I don't know that I need 32 ounces of this. How much should I expect to use to do my midsize pickup truck ?

Thanks again to everyone for helping me with this. I really need and appreciate it.
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here would be my suggestions...

Griots Garage 6 Inch Random Orbital Polisher
Griots Garage 3 Inch HD Backing Plate
Griots Garage 5 Inch Vented Orbital Backing Plate

Griots Garage 3 Inch BOSS Foam and Microfiber Pads
Griots Garage 5.5 inch BOSS Foam and Microfiber Pads

Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System 3.5 Inch
Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System 5.5 Inch

Lake Country 3.5 Inch Flat Foam Pads
Lake Country 5.5 Inch Flat Foam Pads
 
Serenitynow said:
Oh heck.
Just remembered. I'm going to need some Tar Remover too. I think I have some tree sap build up on the roof of my truck in the stiffening channels.
So, recommendations for this would be great also.
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I like Carpro TarX a lot. It's a little expensive but I don't use as much product that I use with other products I useally gets. And also it's based on citrus oils which is effective but also gives you a good smell of it which is not so usual with solvents. Some just use IPA to desolve tar and sap. Have not used it myself but it's a cheaper option.

Do you work in a garage when you are polishing? If so the Blackfire One Step seems to be a great option as you leave to fully dry on the paint for easier wipe off. And if you don't work in a garage when polishing and you could have sun where you are going to be polishing. The 3D Speed is the way to go with.

I would just ad a small bottle of Sonax EX 04-06 and if not used now you have it for the future. And if would get you a result on the test spots vs the AIO. You have enough to do your truck.

SONAX EX 04-06 250 ml.

Seems like a great shopping list. I would ad a pad brush if you don't have compressed air to clean the pads between sections. Or you could use a medium soft toothbrush but the right tools makes for a better experience. Also if you don't have more mf towels already. A 12 pack of the Forrest Green mf towels will come to use. And for your personal safety get some nitrile gloves as they are worth it in the longrun and keeps your hands clean.

12 Pack Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloths

Foam Pad Conditioning Brush cleans and reconditions foam and wool pads on the buffer. remove excess caked wax and polish from buffing pads.

Orange Heavy Duty Nitrile Gloves

What kind of protection have thought on useing? Either to top the AIO with or use on it's own after polish.

Some other questions you had about how often you can polishing. Think of AIO and polishes as liquid sandpaper. Sure it's pad dependant and also the hardness of the clearcoat comes in. The more aggressive you get the more clearcoat you abrade off. But an AIO or polish on a light polishing pad or finishing pad is not aggressive and almost not measurable what amount of clearcoat you take off with it. When you comes up to compounding you get measures that's easy measurable with a paint thickness gauge PTG. Then it's also if you know the history of your vehicals paint. If and how much it's been compounded and polishing before. Also the age of the vehicals paint makes an impact on the thickness as how much of oxidation it has been on it. More if lived outside 24/7 or less if garaged during the sun hours.

If there have been not much compounding in the past and you maintain it good. Which is not to marring or swirling or scratching any deeper defects in the paint. A yearly or every other year doing a finishing polish or light polishing is safe to be doing. To clean up the paint and remove the very little of dead paint aka oxidation and also remove some marring and light swirls you can get a few of from the washing and drying and just the use of the vehical. If you would need to be remove deeper defects and abrade down to the level those out every year or oftener with compounding with a aggressive combo for your paints hardness. You will fastly thin the already thin clearcoat down to levels that gets it more sensitive to the UV rays and gets even faster oxidation when this happens. After a few years you can be seeing clearcoat failure on some parts. Especially the horisontall panels is where it starts. That's why it's always best to go with the least aggressive combo when doing polishing. Also chasing every deeper defects you can have parts of clearcoat failure on these parts sooner. It's so hard to say exactly how many compounding or polishing you can be doing. As it's much about how thick your clearcoat is both from the factory and when you bought it used. So there are no exact numbers on how many you can do of these as it's so many variables to take in to count,

/ Tony
 
Wow Tony. Thanks for the detailed reply. I had to read it a couple times to understand it. I think I got it.

I already have a can of denatured alcohol. Would it be ok to use this on the tree sap buildup ?

I bought the truck new in 2009. It's never been hit with a polishing machine.

Yes, I will be doing the polishing work in the garage out of the sun.
 
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