My first real detail and coating

[BigEd05]

I have a black ‘05 911 Cab that is in pretty good shape. I’ve had it looked at by a pro who measured the paint and found it to be thick and in good shape. A good friend that is a very good part time detailer is going to help (actually do) the paint correction and I am going to fix a few chips with Dr. Color Chip. He’s planning a light damp sanding and polish. Then we are going to coat with CSL and 2 layers of EXOv4.
My questions are...
Do I need to do any other prep besides the polish and wipe down with Panel Wipe?

I know to do the chip repair after the polishing. What about the panel wipe? Wipe before or after repair?

Can I use the CSL on chrome wheels?
What about exhaust tips?

What would be a good detail spray to use?

I have C2v2 as well. I read something about diluting it and using as a drying aid but can’t find it again. Any thoughts on that and would that work as a detail spray for finger prints and the like or would something be better?

Thanks for helping a total novice. I’ve learned a lot about washing. Use foam cannon and 2BM. Looking forward to taking things to a little higher level. I’m sure I’ll have many more questions going forward.

 

[Buster906]

I have a black ‘05 911 Cab that is in pretty good shape. I’ve had it looked at by a pro who measured the paint and found it to be thick and in good shape. A good friend that is a very good part time detailer is going to help (actually do) the paint correction and I am going to fix a few chips with Dr. Color Chip. He’s planning a light damp sanding and polish. Then we are going to coat with CSL and 2 layers of EXOv4.
My questions are...
Do I need to do any other prep besides the polish and wipe down with Panel Wipe?

I know to do the chip repair after the polishing. What about the panel wipe? Wipe before or after repair?

Can I use the CSL on chrome wheels?
What about exhaust tips?

What would be a good detail spray to use?

I have C2v2 as well. I read something about diluting it and using as a drying aid but can’t find it again. Any thoughts on that and would that work as a detail spray for finger prints and the like or would something be better?

Thanks for helping a total novice. I’ve learned a lot about washing. Use foam cannon and 2BM. Looking forward to taking things to a little higher level. I’m sure I’ll have many more questions going forward.

After polishing, user Eraser or 90% IPA as a panel wipe on the areas that require chip repair. The chipped paint areas must be free of any polish residue for the Dr Colorchip to adhere.
As for a detail spray to remove dust and finger prints, the like Meguiars.
If you have a DA polisher, perfect your skills on a body panel from a salvage yard. A detailer on YouTube calls Waxmode uses a hood to perform all his product testing

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[BigEd05]

Thanks. I’ll be sure the chip areas are clean. I’ve got the Gtechniq Panel Wipe to do the wipe down before the coating. I’ve got some 90% IPA so I’ll spot clean before the Dr Colorchip then do the general wipe down with Panel Wipe prior to coating.
My buddy who knows what he’s doing and has the proper tools to do polishing is going to take care of that. I honestly don’t have the personality to do proper polishing. A man has to know his limitations. Lol I’ll be concentrating on learning how to keep it shining as long as possible with proper maintenance.


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[Buster906]

You should visit DetailedImage, Autogeek and Autopia for your detailing needs. I really enjoy ObsessedGarage on YouTube

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[BigEd05]

You should visit DetailedImage, Autogeek and Autopia for your detailing needs. I really enjoy ObsessedGarage on YouTube

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I watched some of his videos today. Was very helpful. Made it very clear as to how to apply the coating and how to tell it’s flashed and ready to level off.
I was also concerned about the instructions for CSL that say it needs to be cooler than 25c when you apply it. It’s not going to be that for a while here. They just said to start with smaller areas like 1’x1’ to see how it’s flashing. Said in warmer temps it can be as quick as 30 sec but not to worry about it.


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[Buster906]

I watched some of his videos today. Was very helpful. Made it very clear as to how to apply the coating and how to tell it’s flashed and ready to level off.
I was also concerned about the instructions for CSL that say it needs to be cooler than 25c when you apply it. It’s not going to be that for a while here. They just said to start with smaller areas like 1’x1’ to see how it’s flashing. Said in warmer temps it can be as quick as 30 sec but not to worry about it.


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If you can be patient and wait for cooler weather, you could apply Meguiars hybrid ceramic wax in the meantime after you fill in the chips. Please post photos of before and after chip repair. I ordered a kit from Dr colorchip

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[BigEd05]

If you can be patient and wait for cooler weather, you could apply Meguiars hybrid ceramic wax in the meantime after you fill in the chips. Please post photos of before and after chip repair. I ordered a kit from Dr colorchip

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I have to be a little patient since everything I ordered came in except the Dr Colorchip. I’m guessing it will ship directly from them some time this week. Anyway it’s going to be a week or so before I can do it now.
I’ll be sure to get before and after pics.


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[The Guz]

I have a black ‘05 911 Cab that is in pretty good shape. I’ve had it looked at by a pro who measured the paint and found it to be thick and in good shape. A good friend that is a very good part time detailer is going to help (actually do) the paint correction and I am going to fix a few chips with Dr. Color Chip. He’s planning a light damp sanding and polish. Then we are going to coat with CSL and 2 layers of EXOv4.

Is he planning to sand the entire thing or just the chips?

Do I need to do any other prep besides the polish and wipe down with Panel Wipe?

A solid prep wipe or two will be fine.

I know to do the chip repair after the polishing. What about the panel wipe? Wipe before or after repair?

You can panel wipe after everything is complete. You may want to take extra care around the touch up paint.

Can I use the CSL on chrome wheels?
What about exhaust tips?

Yes. You can even use Exo over it as well.

What would be a good detail spray to use?

CarPro Ech20 at 1:20 makes for a good detail spray and drying aid over any coating.

I have C2v2 as well. I read something about diluting it and using as a drying aid but can’t find it again. Any thoughts on that and would that work as a detail spray for finger prints and the like or would something be better?

C2v3 has no cleaning properties. It is a maintenance product that is often used over the coating. It can be diluted for use as a drying aid. Stated on the bottle.

My buddy who knows what he’s doing and has the proper tools to do polishing is going to take care of that. I honestly don’t have the personality to do proper polishing. A man has to know his limitations. Lol I’ll be concentrating on learning how to keep it shining as long as possible with proper maintenance.


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Polishing is not that hard. Just takes time. Anyone can do it.

 

[BigEd05]

Thanks for the info.
He’s going to sand the whole car. 3000 grit. Then polish.
I’ll be sure to take extra care with the Panel Wipe. Some of my concern was if I could safely use the wipe over the repaired chips. I think I have a game plan that’s going to work now. I always over think things.



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[The Guz]

Does the entire car need to be wet sanded? If not then just compound, polish and coat. Wet sanding will remove the orange peel but it is also removing some clear.

 

[dpevans]

Wish I had a friend that would volunteer to wet sand my entire car. that's a major undertaking and you should have an awesome finish when done. Sure hope you don't need it for a week or more cause there are a couple steps in between sanding and polishing. When I bought my new Camaro I couldn't stand the orange peel and was quoted 8 grand to sand, correct, and ceramic coating. Seeing how I didn't have 8k laying around I just did a correction and ceramic and live with the orange peel. I also found out something else, when you apply PPE the orange peel disappears.

 

[BigEd05]

Yes. He’s got it all week. Sanded today.


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[JMak97008]

The Dr Color Chip will need some time to properly cure. I used that stuff a few years ago and ended up polishing the chip paint right out of the chip after having waited about 3 weeks. So follow the directions or the chip repair will pull right out.

 

[BigEd05]

The Dr Color Chip will need some time to properly cure. I used that stuff a few years ago and ended up polishing the chip paint right out of the chip after having waited about 3 weeks. So follow the directions or the chip repair will pull right out.

Thanks. It was recommended that we do the chip repair after all the polishing is done so that’s hew we’re proceeding. I’ll post pics of how it turns out.


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[BigEd05]

Ok, this took forever to get done just due to work conflicts but I was able to get some quick pics before heading out of town again. It’s still a driver and being the 3rd owner there were a lot of places that had been previously touched up, and not very well. I’ll just have to live with those. Maybe I’ll have it painted some day but for now I think it looks pretty darn good. The CSL and EXO were very easy to work with and talk about slick. Oh man. Anyway, no where near perfect but I’m pretty happy.
Next project is the truck and I’ll be starting a new thread on that. Gonna need some advice for sure as I’ll be venturing into getting a polisher and doing it all. You people are such a bad influence. Lol.
Here are a couple of quick pics. Not great but hope you get an idea.
Thanks again for the advice.

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[Jayfro]

Outstanding work sir!!


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[BigEd05]

Though I talked about it in the previous posts, I have to say again... the kudo’s go to my buddy Dave who did all the polishing and polishing and polishing by machine and hand to get it as flawless as possible. What a super job he did.
I did the Dr Color Chip and CSL with his assistance and he finished up with the EXO after I had to leave for a meeting. So basically it was all Dave. I did actually learn a bit and got some confidence to try some things on my own. This ought to be interesting. Lol


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[SWETM]

A 15 year old vehical that has been daily driven. The results is awesome and give back in something that you can offer your buddy Dave with some help on. Looking dripping wet and an amazing depth and you can't ask for more. If you don't get as you mentioned a quality repaint job.

Going forward with the truck and doing it yourself is great. Where you able to test your buddys polisher? And how did you like it?

It's to decide which polisher to get. And for the beginner it's great to start with a 8mm free spinning DA polisher. The hotest thing on the market is the Griots Garage G9 polisher. It has plenty of power so it's able to stall less and this has a 9mm throw which is the safest polisher to get basicly. The little downside that I have noticed is that's not recommended to use a 3" backing plate on it. This is to get the hard to reach places that you don't get with a 5" or 6" backing plates and pads for them. But look at the threads with this polisher and maybe ask if anyone have still tested it with the 3" backing plate. The older GG6 you could use that with and made it very versitale polisher. And you maybe will be fine when you polishing your truck without the 3" backing plate. So you maybe not need to be investing in a dedicated 3" mini polisher right away.

It's also about personal preferences on which polisher you get first and what you think will suit you the best. And also what kind of budget you are ready to go with. Next kind of polishers is the longthrow polishers with either 15mm or 21mm throw. They are free spinning DA polishers but with a longer orbit than the 8mm and 9mm ones. 15mm comes with 5" backing plate on it and the 21mm comes with the 6" backing plate. And some of the pads reach out from the backing plate to be 1" wider than the backing plate. A 21mm longthrow polisher and 6.5"-7" pads on it makes doing some little extra polishing in the same amount of time to make the total polishing time less than a G9 polisher takes. Also the longer throw makes it more effective when you polishing so less passes per sections is needed to get the same results from it. You have the Rupes MKIII 15 and 21 and Flex 15mm and they have a cordless 15mm also and the Griots Garage BOSS G15 and G21 which AGO is offering. There are slight differences between them and much is of personal preferences and budget. I dove right in a couple of years ago with a 21mm longthrow polisher. It's a little more technique on curved panels to get keeping the pad spinning vs the smaller throws. But it's not extremly hard and just trying to get the polishing pad flat on the paint and follow the leveling of the polisher on the curved panels and you are good. Mark your backing plate so you easly see that your polishing pad is spinning is a great tips to do. The downside I noticed after the first correction was I needed to be adding a 3" mini polisher right away LOL.

If you want to have the insurance of your pad is spinning all of the time every where. You have the direct driven DA polishers. It's also has a throw of 5mm or 8mm. But the free spinning movement is gear driven instead. So the polishing pad won't stall at all on you. It's still important to use a good polishing technique or these can be hard to work with as they start to walking away from your polishing direction. Flex is just releasing there new cordless 8-125 and the corded Flex XCE10-8 125 and you can preorder them. It's the new version of the Flex VRG3401 which has been the one to get for a long time as a direct driven DA polisher. Rupes LK 900E Mille was released about a year ago and has a 5mm throw but a little higher rpm than the Flex ones that has 8mm throw from them. The benefit with the Rupes is they have a whole system with their polishers. And a little less of a work out with the walking from them. And the Flex is a little more effective with their longer throw.

Here you have a lot of different opinions on which polisher between the direct driven DA polishers or the longthrow polishers is the best and most effective LOL. I say go with one of them that you think will suit you the best. They have different benefits and downsides. Then you have the rotary polishers but them you have a learning curve. They are great when you heavy cutting the paint and want the most effective polisher. But they need a lot of polishing time behind the polisher to get a hologram free finish. Even many pros use a rotary polisher when they do the first polishing step and then use a DA polisher to the finishing step. They are more aggressive than the DAs and you have to be carefull where the paint is natuarally thinner on a vehical. As the edges of the panels and raised body lines has and which you often use smaller masking tape to cover them up. And if you polishing on very thin paint you can burn through the clearcoat easier cause of the higher aggressiveness they have. But it has it's benefits as much quiter and also when dialed in with the right pad and polish you can have a very smooth polishing experience with it. And it's ability to cut fast on deep defects on hard to medium hardness of clearcoats.

The next to think of is to get a good amount of pads 6-10 on a truck of each different aggressiveness of pads. So you don't wear them down too fast and not need to be cleaning them other than on the fly until it gets saturated and you reach for a fresh pad instead. Then it's great to have a compound and a medium cut polish and a finishing polish. So you can dial in the least aggressive combo on your test spots with the polish and pad that get you the best results from the polishing. If it's a cutting step and a finishing polish step or if you are able to do both in one step. It's depending on the paint and the depth of the defects you have in it.

And some chemicals to do the chemical decon which useally are a tar remover and iron remover. Then for the mechanical decon step which is claying with clay bar or synthetic clay alternatives as mitt or pad or block or towel.

Then the fun begins LOL

/ Tony

 

[BigEd05]

Thanks Tony. Excellent info. I’ve been doing some research and am leaning heavily toward the G9. I may also check some pawn shops and see if I can find a suitable and inexpensive polisher for 3” and also using with a brush for tire cleaning. I have some special issues with the truck that I’ll put in a new post when I get home and can include some pics. Thanks again for the nice thoughts and information.


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[BigEd05]

Two more questions on this project and then I’m moving on to the truck.

There is a soft, flexible piece under the front of the car. As careful as I try to be it still occasionally gets caught on a curb when parking. Any ideas on how best to dress it up? In the past I think it was painted with a rattle can of flat black. I really don’t want to do that and take a chance of over spray. I’m thinking paint with a foam brush or use one of the new black dye trim coatings or both. It’s no doubt going to need the occasional touch up. Not only can I not drive 55, I evidently can’t park worth a crap either. LOL Here’s a couple of pics.

Second question. I probably should have done this before the wheels were coated but I now have and want to use Tuf Shine tire clear coat. Do you think it would be a good idea to mask off the wheels before doing the tire cleaning or is it not likely to hurt the coating?

Thanks as always for your help.


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