My Journey begins here

Legacykid

New member
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
451
Reaction score
0
So im making this thread as a learning experience and to log my introduction into the detailing world.

So let me start with my first official car.
Families lexus es350

products used-
GG6
Clay
M105
M205
1z glanz wax

Will upload more pics tomorrow but here is just a quick rundown of some snags I felt I hit, and something I liked/disliked.

First is the M105, I could not seem to find the correct amount to apply, I believe I was dry buffing, see pic below


Now here is the pad though, after roughtly the top of the car done( hood, roof, trunk lid) The pad looks saturated well enough or even to much. but after a pass and a half it seems to be drying and flaking. I did mist it with some WD


Now This was also my first time using 1Z wax, and I really liked it alot. The bottle wasnt working for me so I got a small container and used a dropper to help speed up the process while not making a mess, and having to pour from that bottle. Pic to come but here is the 1Z on the doors.


On horizontal serfaces like the hood, roof, trunk, this product went on smooth like butter very thin, came off very nicely as well, where I found and issue was on vertical serfaces such as the doors, maybe I was doing it differently but it was not drying as fast and coming off cleanly. I believe this was because it was to thick? I think I have to just get used to using the DA from different angles.

I will upload more pics tomorrow but any advice or comments is appreciated. I will be keeping this as a running log to help me further.
 
Misted with WD? Do you mean QD? Do you have a pad brush? Looks like too much heat and the M105 was caking on the pad. Maybe try some QD on the pad to prime it, do a section, clean pad with pad brush, QD the pad again, repeat.

What kind of pad is that? I've pretty much stuck to LC CCS smart pads, so pardon for the question. You might try a smart pad or cool wave pad to see if that helps with the heat factor.
 
Misted with WD? Do you mean QD? Do you have a pad brush? Looks like too much heat and the M105 was caking on the pad. Maybe try some QD on the pad to prime it, do a section, clean pad with pad brush, QD the pad again, repeat.

What kind of pad is that? I've pretty much stuck to LC CCS smart pads, so pardon for the question. You might try a smart pad or cool wave pad to see if that helps with the heat factor.

Yes I ment QD, sorry. I have a brush yes. so try cleaning it after every few passes? i did QD from the start, and here and there to freshen it up.

This is a hex logic pad.
 
Back at it today for a little, let me know what you guys think. I dont see a drastic change, but im happy with it.



The following pictures have a scuff in the paint (upper left)






Here are the after shots.






Uncleaned side:


Cleaned Side:


Input? thoughts?
 
Looks a tiny bit better, you have a ways to go. Start watching some videos and researching and you'll get the hang of it real quick. A little product goes a long way too..
 
You need good lighting to show your results!!
Yep!

That's why 50/50's are often done on horizontal panels in the sun or vertical panels with halogen lighting. Use the light to your advantage to show your work and results.
 
Yep!

That's why 50/50's are often done on horizontal panels in the sun or vertical panels with halogen lighting. Use the light to your advantage to show your work and results.

I had already did the hood of the truck to begin with, but yes lighting in my garage is terrible, i have a small flashlight but im looking into those work lights from home depot or something similar.
 
I think you're doing a great job...

NMS_0430_zpsfc0b0c2f.jpg

^The difference is very noticeable... especially for this dim lighting. Look at the difference in the reflection of the sidewalk & grass. The polished side is way more vivid where the other side looks cloudy.

Keep it up!
 
I think you're doing a great job...


^The difference is very noticeable... especially for this dim lighting. Look at the difference in the reflection of the sidewalk & grass. The polished side is way more vivid where the other side looks cloudy.

Keep it up!

Thank you very much for the encouragement. I was actually checking out your website a few days ago. I like the set up!
 
Good job, not bad. I use the same pads, and from the looks of it you may be using too much M105. Also, I got better results when I SLOWED the speed down on the Flex 3401 to 3-4 and went really slow. Finished out really nice.

Good luck.
 
Back at it today this time on my car. I tried some iron X on my 3 year old S4. and to my surprise not that much came off of it. There was a lot on the rear of the car thought in comparison.

Initial spray


Then in action:



Side of the car rear


Rear of car:




Also tried some chemical guys Fabric Clean


This stain is maybe 6 years old. All i used was a MF towel and product with 20:1.
 
Im also claying the car right now and man its taking me a long time. almost done with about 2 hours on the clock. and my car was basically smooth to the touch(with hand) as i clayed back in May. I just never timed myself. Granted its my (baby)car and its white.

How fast is everyone doing with this claying?
 
How long it takes to clay depends on how contaminated the car is. Just a tip, look into pad priming, because the orange pad in the picture looks like it has too much product in the center, but isn't primed.

Prime the pad to start, then add a few dots of product. Also, when correcting, clean the pad with a brush at least after each panel. It's also good to clean with a terry towel on the fly.

Also, it sort of looks like you are using way to much wax. You want to struggle to see it on the panel, if at all before you remove it. If your not sure if the pad is still "wet", touch it to glass to see. You will be surprised. it should take about a1/2-3/4 oz of liquid wax to wax a regular car - if that much.
 
How long it takes to clay depends on how contaminated the car is. Just a tip, look into pad priming, because the orange pad in the picture looks like it has too much product in the center, but isn't primed.

Prime the pad to start, then add a few dots of product. Also, when correcting, clean the pad with a brush at least after each panel. It's also good to clean with a terry towel on the fly.

Also, it sort of looks like you are using way to much wax. You want to struggle to see it on the panel, if at all before you remove it. If your not sure if the pad is still "wet", touch it to glass to see. You will be surprised. it should take about a1/2-3/4 oz of liquid wax to wax a regular car - if that much.

About what is an avg I should be looking at time wise for claying? and yes I found on the side panels I was using to much wax.

Going to try the touch to glass to test the pad never heard of that!

Thanks for feedback
 
How long it takes to clay will completely depend how contaminated the car is. A car that is all gunked up with embedded tar, sap, and road sludge could take 2 hours. An average car probably would take me an hour - but I'm slow.
 
On an A4 sized car, 30 tops. I did a G6 in less than 15 the other night with a "helper", and I use that term loosely. Solo, I just did a Trailblazer top to bottom in about 45. It hadn't been clayed ever, and was pretty neglected. If you did the car in the spring, it should be quick.

As far as the dry buffing, were you working outside? I've only had that happen working in direct sunlight. The heat of the panel will make the product flash faster.
 
On an A4 sized car, 30 tops. I did a G6 in less than 15 the other night with a "helper", and I use that term loosely. Solo, I just did a Trailblazer top to bottom in about 45. It hadn't been clayed ever, and was pretty neglected. If you did the car in the spring, it should be quick.

As far as the dry buffing, were you working outside? I've only had that happen working in direct sunlight. The heat of the panel will make the product flash faster.

that is fast wow.

the buffing was in the garage.
 
Back
Top