My Opti-coat 2.0 impressions/questions

[sportscarhiatus]

Sorry in advance for the long post, but I have to explain what I did and why.......

So I finally got the nerve and courage to try Opti-coat (OC) this weekend. All I can say is, I was ready to give up, but after trying it another time, I think I finally got the hang of it.

The temp all weekend was around 70ish but humid in my garage... and I think this has a HUGE part to play with how OC reacted. After polishing the Civic and applying PowerClean to leave the paint squeaky clean, I tried OC for the first time... and it was a pain in the rear. Upon completing my first pass/sweep of one panel, I was left not with "high spots" like most of you folks here experience, but more so "permanent streaks" as I like the call it. My applicator pad was SO tacky already, after a mere 10 seconds or so after applying it. Is this normal?!?!?! There was nary a rainbow effect to indicate high spots... but more so these "streaks" that were permanently on there even afer 1 hour or so.

I was concerned I was doing something wrong because from what I heard, you have a few minutes to be able to go back and even out the high spots. But like I said, I did not have that luxury... after just about 10-15 secs or so, the surface was already tacky to the touch of the applicator pad... and the more I rubbed it, the more permanent streaks I got... Has anyone seen this? I tried buffing it off with an MF to see if it would come off, but nope, it was pretty much cured. So why did it set/cure/get tacky SO QUICKLY? Is this normal? What did I do wrong?

Disgusted and annoyed, since there is no way I am living with those streaks...(I could see them clearly with my tower halogens). So I went ahead and polished it off with 85RD, then glazed and sealed it like normal.

Next day, I was willing to give it another try after during some more reading the night before. I polished the other side of the Civic and wanted to apply OC to that. I thought that since it may be drying/curing SO quickly, why not try to buff off the high spots using an MF almost immediately? (I read that some folks just use, and also on AG's site for instructions, an MF to wipe off high spots) Lo and behold... IT WORKED!!! What I mean is, after I did 1/2 a panel, I went ahead and used my MF to essentially wipe off the streaks and high spots... this was after about 20-30 seconds or so of applying OC via the foam pad. VOILA! No streaks, no high spots, etc... I know OC was actually "on" there, because I could FEEL the tackiness/new paint feel that OC was supposed to feel like.

I went ahead and finished the panels using this method since I thought it worked. This morning, curious to see if OC was really on my paint, I sprayed some water on it to see if it would bead (mind you, i knew the panel did NOT bead prior to OC because I power cleaned it, and rinsed it down, so no beading/sheeting was apparent). It beaded as expected, so I know that OC is on there and doing its job. I've never seen that fast a bead/sheet effet. Here's a vid for proof.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ibPGwvTV_g]YouTube - ‪opti-coat 2.0, 24hr cure‬‏[/video]

So my question is......anyone see anything wrong with this method?!?!?! Anyone DO this method? I know no other way to get around the "permanent streaks" I saw, but I question the 15-30 sec cure time. What's up with that? The humidity??? temps? So is my OC going to last less on me now since I kindda wiped the panel too early? Again keep in mind that the OC is definitely ON there... see video...

Also, what process do you recommend for drying now, after a wash? just wipe down with MF? or blow dry?

thanks for help...sorry for long thread.

p.s. FWIW, if OC proves to last long and bead this well permanently, I am a fan. So far I am impressed with it.

 

[gmck]

A couple of points.

When I first started using Opti-Coat the temperatures here were approx 25C (77F). Now the temperature as we approach winter is down to 12C (53F). I’ve just finished the bonnet of a BMW X5 and I would say the flashing time of Opti-Coat is exactly the same whether the temp is 25C or 12C. So I doubt very much your theory about temperature/humidity is correct. Opti-Coat flashes very quickly, normally within 30 seconds, but that doesn’t mean you still can’t work it.

From your comments “My applicator pad was SO tacky already after a mere 10 seconds”, it would appear that you are using far too much product. You only need drops of the product from the blue tip. A simple X of very small drops is plenty for a small panel. The cross doesn’t even have to cover the diameter of the applicator. The complete X5 bonnet (a reasonably large bonnet) and front fenders I’ve just done had approx 3 applications of Opti-Coat to the applicator. The fact that you got it right the second time using the MF to wipe the excess proves that you are using far too much for a particular area. There is no reason other than excess product to use an MF when the damp applicator is quite capable of evening out the coat just fine.

The two videos I’ve seen of an Opti-Coat application (1. Detail Fest and 2. Chris from Optimum) both used excess product and therefore required an MF to even out the streaks. The MF must remove product, which obviously defeats the purpose of applying a coat of a suitable thickness. In the video from Chris, I believe it was quite reasonable the amount of product used as his video demonstrated a number of different ways of applying Opti-Coat and unfortunately the evening out of the coat wasn’t shown as it is obvious in the video that those sections were cut. The Detail Fest video was just plain overload of product and probably should be forgotten.

The streaking or flashing is quite normal for an Opti-Coat application. Just because the product is flashing/streaking doesn’t mean it can’t be worked further. That streaking must be removed before the coat is allowed to cure/dry, otherwise as you have seen it will become a permanent streak or stain. The easiest way to accomplish that is to use the already damp applicator to very lightly work the surface as the coating starts to dry. You can if you wish apply a secondary coat of Opti-Coat at this stage to further increase the thickness of the coating.

The best lighting for eliminating the streaks is not halogens, but either natural light or fluros. Just be sure that the fluros don’t create shadows that prevent you seeing the streaks. Halogens are too bright and will only hide the imperfections so I don’t recommend them. Use the fluros to convince yourself that as you wipe the applicator over the streaks that you can still see liquid being applied to the surface, without adding additional product. Once you get the hang of that every Opti-Coat application is a breeze. Remember it is no different to an Opti-Seal application, the only difference is that you must eliminate the streaking as unlike Opti-Seal, those streaks cannot be wiped away later.

You’ve now leant that Opti-Coat is not permanent like you earlier thought. However, there was actually no need to remove your first streaky application; you could have eliminated those streaks by simply polishing with Poli-Seal on a zero cut pad such as a blue or red LC pad. Poli-Seal is mild enough to eliminate the streaks without removing the coating.

Poli-Seal is absolutely perfect for restoring the slickness to the finish of an Opti-Coat application. As you now know an Opti-Coat application lacks slickness that other sealants/waxes (BFWD/Opti-Seal etc) leave, which most of us desire. I now usually wait three or four days, when I can, and polish the Opti-Coat cured surface with Poli-Seal and then finish off with Optimum Car Wax. Finally I instruct the client to wipe down with OCW after every wash or second wash.

My final suggestion is to keep experimenting. Try heavier coats – lighter coats – just make sure you eliminate the streaking/staining with either the damp applicator or even an MF until you arrive at your own technique. C.Quartz may be easier to apply first up, but the final result of an Opti-Coat/Poli-Seal/OCW finish far exceeds anything I’ve ever used previously.

Also, what process do you recommend for drying now, after a wash? just wipe down with MF? or blow dry?

I wouldn't change the way you dry. What ever method worked before will still work now. Why would you expect Opti-Coat to change your method of drying? It is just a coating, equivalent to a micro thin layer of additonal clear coat.

 

[BobbyG]

This is a nice writeup.

I've never tried any of these costings but I've been doing allot of reading and Opti-Coat seems like a great choice.

Thanks for the video and great tips! rops:

 

[silverfox]

Some of my observations are the same when applying Opti Coat:

1) Its easy to apply too much. When it says 2 drops, it means 2 drops.

2) I don't like the included foam pad. A good MF pad would work better. You would not likely need a MF towel to "level" off the non-flashed areas if you applied this stuff with a MF pad (kill 2 birds with 1 stone)

3) If you apply with the included foam pad...have a MF towel readily available and only lightly wipe with no pressure.

4) I tried the "spray-on" method of applying and found myself wasting too much (how hard do you spray...how many spritzes do you shoot...is it windy out?)...these are all questions that make spraying it on a lousy way to do it in my opinion. (For those who have struggled getting the spray just right using Optimum Hyper Polish...you know what I'm talking about...good theory, but can be wasteful and frustrating and remember with Opti Coat, you only have a very little product to start with...its not like you have 16 ounces of the stuff).

5) NEVER do this indoors under halogen or any other lights,,,,its not the same as doing it in natural light. You think you have it right...just to roll the car outside and find you messed up.

6) Its best to practice on a daily beater first before you do this where it can get you into trouble.

It is a great product...but I maintain that its really more for daily drivers than it is for a car nut who wants his car as perfect as he can get it. This product is on your car for good unless you abrade it off with a machine/polish.

I'm also hearing from others on various sites (although I have not had this issue) that these new coating systems do have a few chinks in their armor regarding water drops etching into the coating, so don't assume that these are products are perfect because they aren't. I wanted a product to protect my new car's paint, and "looks"/feel" were secondary considerations. Frankly, after using Opti Coat for example , I know my car looked better when I was using conventional products that I could experiment with and tweak the heck out of. Not so with these coatings...you basically are stuck with the result you get. yes, you can top them with other products, but those toppings won't stick and are only very temporary and in my view a useless exercise. I will say this....maintaining my car now is as simple as washing it with a good gloss enhancing wash. Polishes, waxes, sealants, etc are product I now have no use for. I'd buy this stuff just for putting it on wheels...its that good in terms of protection. Just wash off.

 

[dougaross]

Great posts!! Have any of you posters tried Reload over OC?

 

[silverfox]

I did put Reload on over Opti Coat. Did it amp up the gloss and make the surface smoother..?..yes, it did, but my issue with Reload is the stuff itself. The product I received was nasty stuff. Its a skin, eye, and nasal passages irritant. You don't want to be down wind of this stuff and for sure, wear some kind of protection on your hands. I wear glasses so my eyes were protected pretty well. I diluted it 50/50 with water just to "take it down a notch".

Frankly, I seriously doubt that Reload can enhance the protection that OC gives you, so I see it more of an insurance policy, and it does enhance the gloss a bit. Something else to ponder when using these new coatings....if you apply all kinds of "stuff (extra sealants, waxes, etc)" on top of them, then you really aren't taking advantage of the coating below...so then why apply the coating at all? Just something to think about. I have found that all you need after applying Opti Coat is a good gloss enhancing wash, whether its ONR or conventional to amp the shine.....Maybe top with a gloss enhancing detail spray or waterless wash, but that's it.

I also noticed that you don't want to apply Reload on a warm surface. It likes a very cool surface on which to apply or it will streak like crazy.

Like Opti Coat, I think Reload has its place, but I don't think these products are for everybody. They are specialized products that frankly are not as user friendly as we are accustomed to with more conventional products without some experience using them .

 

[dougaross]

I am not making a case for Reload, just sharing ideas. In terms of health hazards, it is probably not worse than some of the stuff for cleaning wheels. In terms of application, I think the principle of not applying any product to your car on warm surfaces is one to follow all the time, unless the manufacturer states otherwise. And even then I try to avoid doing it.

I think the main case for OC is to maintain a swirl/scratch resistant low maintenance surface. Having a product, like Reload, which amps up the slickness and shine is a plus.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

From your comments “My applicator pad was SO tacky already after a mere 10 seconds”, it would appear that you are using far too much product. .

gmck...

I am not sure I agree with you that I was using too much product. In fact, I would have to stipulate, that I wasn't using enough. Here's why... When I first started using OC on my foam pad, did an x mark, then as I proceeded to do a left to right swipe on my front left fender, it was actually already VERY squeaky tacky... I mean VERY much so. I could barely get the pad to glide across the paint. All the time, I was cringing at the sound of the squeaking... I was worried I was marring the paint from the pad itself from all the squeaking across the paint. There was even a time when I almost dropped the pad because it was "grabbing" so much. At the same time, this is when my permanent streaks appeared. As soon as I completed 3 lines worth of a left to right application, I tried going up and down with the same foam pad (as noted by instructions), and I could NOT! It was even MORE tacky than when I first started.... again, VERY weird. It was like OC was already cured. At that point, even the MF wipe/buff would NOT remove those permanent streaks.

Also FWIW, I used a mere 4 CC's on my entire Civic.... so I know that I was NOT using too much product.

The MF must remove product, which obviously defeats the purpose of applying a coat of a suitable thickness..

I agree that it must remove "some" of the coating applied... but how much of it? who knows... I DO know that it does NOT remove it all, because as my video proves, I DO have OC on my paint.

The streaking or flashing is quite normal for an Opti-Coat application. Just because the product is flashing/streaking doesn’t mean it can’t be worked further. That streaking must be removed before the coat is allowed to cure/dry, otherwise as you have seen it will become a permanent streak or stain. The easiest way to accomplish that is to use the already damp applicator to very lightly work the surface as the coating starts to dry. .

As I also stated above, I "tried" to work it over with the damp pad, but to no avail... it was already tacky, and the streaks were already permanent. Rubbing my pad further added even MORE streaks, without removing the ones already there. Why this happened, I have NO idea.

The best lighting for eliminating the streaks is not halogens, but either natural light or fluros..

That's a great idea. I will use fluros next time, or out in the shade on my driveway.

You’ve now leant that Opti-Coat is not permanent like you earlier thought. .

gmck, I will still have to respectfully disagree with your statement. As the product description states, I do believe it is a permanent product, as only abrading it will remove it. In my mind, any product that does not fade away by washing, wiping, or just getting beat on by the elements (sun, rain, dirt, etc), is permanent. True, I can polish it off using a DA/rotary with some compound or polish of some sort... but again, that in my mind, makes it "permanent". If you still don't agree, that is ok, I mean no disrespect, and we can agree to disagree.

Poli-Seal is absolutely perfect for restoring the slickness to the finish of an Opti-Coat application. As you now know an Opti-Coat application lacks slickness that other sealants/waxes (BFWD/Opti-Seal etc) leave, which most of us desire. I now usually wait three or four days, when I can, and polish the Opti-Coat cured surface with Poli-Seal and then finish off with Optimum Car Wax. Finally I instruct the client to wipe down with OCW after every wash or second wash.

My final suggestion is to keep experimenting. Try heavier coats – lighter coats – just make sure you eliminate the streaking/staining with either the damp applicator or even an MF until you arrive at your own technique. C.Quartz may be easier to apply first up, but the final result of an Opti-Coat/Poli-Seal/OCW finish far exceeds anything I’ve ever used previously..

Thank you for your suggestion on this. I currently do not have Poli-seal, and will have to get some!

I wouldn't change the way you dry. What ever method worked before will still work now. Why would you expect Opti-Coat to change your method of drying? It is just a coating, equivalent to a micro thin layer of additonal clear coat.

Reason why I ask is, I know OC is more scratch/marr resistant, but I know it can still marr. Since the surface is a little more "tacky", I get worried about my usual method of using an MF to just wipe the surface dry. On my normally LSP'd vehicles, an MF works because the surface is so slick, I just wipe it off with no worries. With OC's "squeaky" surface, I am worried about instilling some very slight marring... I know I can polish it back to a flawless finish, but still, that's extra work So anyways, perhaps I must use something like OID everytime I dry???

This is a nice writeup.

I've never tried any of these costings but I've been doing allot of reading and Opti-Coat seems like a great choice.

Thanks for the video and great tips! rops:

Thanks Bobby... again, I was amazed at the beading/sheeting when I hosed my panel. So I felt good in the fact that I did SOMETHING right I know OC is on there.

Some of my observations are the same when applying Opti Coat:

1) Its easy to apply too much. When it says 2 drops, it means 2 drops.

2) I don't like the included foam pad. A good MF pad would work better. You would not likely need a MF towel to "level" off the non-flashed areas if you applied this stuff with a MF pad (kill 2 birds with 1 stone)

3) If you apply with the included foam pad...have a MF towel readily available and only lightly wipe with no pressure.

4) I tried the "spray-on" method of applying and found myself wasting too much (how hard do you spray...how many spritzes do you shoot...is it windy out?)...these are all questions that make spraying it on a lousy way to do it in my opinion. (For those who have struggled getting the spray just right using Optimum Hyper Polish...you know what I'm talking about...good theory, but can be wasteful and frustrating and remember with Opti Coat, you only have a very little product to start with...its not like you have 16 ounces of the stuff).

5) NEVER do this indoors under halogen or any other lights,,,,its not the same as doing it in natural light. You think you have it right...just to roll the car outside and find you messed up.

6) Its best to practice on a daily beater first before you do this where it can get you into trouble.

It is a great product...but I maintain that its really more for daily drivers than it is for a car nut who wants his car as perfect as he can get it. This product is on your car for good unless you abrade it off with a machine/polish.

I'm also hearing from others on various sites (although I have not had this issue) that these new coating systems do have a few chinks in their armor regarding water drops etching into the coating, so don't assume that these are products are perfect because they aren't. I wanted a product to protect my new car's paint, and "looks"/feel" were secondary considerations. Frankly, after using Opti Coat for example , I know my car looked better when I was using conventional products that I could experiment with and tweak the heck out of. Not so with these coatings...you basically are stuck with the result you get. yes, you can top them with other products, but those toppings won't stick and are only very temporary and in my view a useless exercise. I will say this....maintaining my car now is as simple as washing it with a good gloss enhancing wash. Polishes, waxes, sealants, etc are product I now have no use for. I'd buy this stuff just for putting it on wheels...its that good in terms of protection. Just wash off.

I agree with you on those points, especially on using it on a daily beater/driver. That's why it's on my 11 year old (polished, and looks BETTER than new Civic I might do the Odyssey in OC too, but the Z will ALWAYS stay OC-free) Civic. Now I have more time to work on the Z

I do disagree with your comment on the 2 drops per panel though. the 2 drops per panel ONLY works if you have a properly primed pad. See my response to gmck above... I really think I was using TOO LITTLE product.... it still doesn't explain my almost instantaneous "permanent" streaks though. Bizaare. Only my MF technique of "working" the OC is what eliminated any signs of streaking. But I had to be REALLY REALLY quick though. After doing 1/2 a panel, I had to wipe it off with the MF right away.... otherwise, those streak were there... FOR GOOD.

 

[dougaross]

gmck...

I am not sure I agree with you that I was using too much product. In fact, I would have to stipulate, that I wasn't using enough. Here's why... When I first started using OC on my foam pad, did an x mark, then as I proceeded to do a left to right swipe on my front left fender, it was actually already VERY squeaky tacky... I mean VERY much so. I could barely get the pad to glide across the paint. All the time, I was cringing at the sound of the squeaking... I was worried I was marring the paint from the pad itself from all the squeaking across the paint. There was even a time when I almost dropped the pad because it was "grabbing" so much. At the same time, this is when my permanent streaks appeared. As soon as I completed 3 lines worth of a left to right application, I tried going up and down with the same foam pad (as noted by instructions), and I could NOT! It was even MORE tacky than when I first started.... again, VERY weird. It was like OC was already cured. At that point, even the MF wipe/buff would NOT remove those permanent streaks.

You may want to try the method I use for applying OC. I rarely have any high spots and no streaking.
I start with small circular movements working the product from the center to the outer edges. Moving from thicker application to thinner. I may do that more than once. Then I go in strait lines left to right and up and down (or vice versa). It seems to work for me but different strokes for different folks (pun intended)

 

[sportscarhiatus]

You may want to try the method I use for applying OC. I rarely have any high spots and no streaking.
I start with small circular movements working the product from the center to the outer edges. Moving from thicker application to thinner. I may do that more than once. Then I go in strait lines left to right and up and down (or vice versa). It seems to work for me but different strokes for different folks (pun intended)

I might have to try that.... I plan to use OC eventually on our "other" daily driver, our Honda Odyssey... but I keep going back and forth. I love waxing my van (yes, it's sad isn't it???). But then again, given all the time it involves, maybe I SHOULD OC it...

I might start at least with the front bumper.... all those bugs.... I hope it just comes off with OC.

 

[MCA]

Thanks for the great review and valuable replies. I am pretty much sold on either using Opti-coat or Cquartz on my minivan as I don't take care of it as much as I should. I hate detailing that thing - It could have the glossiest, wettest, shiniest paint and the darkest, blackest tires but at the end of the day.............It's still a minivan.

Thanks again for the write-up and everyone's personal experience/instructions.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

Thanks for the great review and valuable replies. I am pretty much sold on either using Opti-coat or Cquartz on my minivan as I don't take care of it as much as I should. I hate detailing that thing - It could have the glossiest, wettest, shiniest paint and the darkest, blackest tires but at the end of the day.............It's still a minivan.

Thanks again for the write-up and everyone's personal experience/instructions.

You are most welcome. This is what this AG community is for... to help one another rops: I just find it amazing that even with ONE product, there are so many diff't ways to apply/use it, and it varies from user to user, depending on so many other variables like environmental, method of application, surface prep prior to OC, etc etc etc. In the end, experiment and stick with WHAT WORKS. That's what I did, and that's how I will use OC moving forth. Because it works.

And yes, I might have to do my Odyssey minivan too... for the wife. Good news is that it IS polished and swirl free already so all I have to do is use Power clean, then go to town.

 

[Chris Thomas]

gmck is wrong about my video. There was no MF used and no video edits. The reason pump the sprayer so much in the beginning is because I wasn't getting anything out of it. Also, in my video, you can hear the squeaks and see me add more product when the pad stops sliding smoothly. The solvent flash and cure time are two different events. You can't keep wiping it after the solvent flash unless you pad is wet, otherwise you will get those streaks from actually wiping off the product as it is trying to dry. This is not a wax or sealant that needs to be "worked", you are just wiping it on in a couple different directions for even coverage. Don't mess with it after it flashes without re wetting the pad.

OC is very easy to apply, once you understand it's not applied like waxes and sealants, and that there's no residue to buff or reason to wipe after it goes clear. Even when you get a thick spot, your goal is just to even it out so it can flash clear...not to "buff" it out. I just use the outer edges or back side of the applicator for that, I don't go over it with a MF like others.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

gmck is wrong about my video. There was no MF used and no video edits. The reason pump the sprayer so much in the beginning is because I wasn't getting anything out of it. Also, in my video, you can hear the squeaks and see me add more product when the pad stops sliding smoothly.

Thanks for clarifying this Chris... then in my case, I definitely did not use enough product because I was squeaking right from the get-go, almost causing me to drop my pad... it was that 'dry'.

The solvent flash and cure time are two different events. You can't keep wiping it after the solvent flash unless you pad is wet, otherwise you will get those streaks from actually wiping off the product as it is trying to dry. This is not a wax or sealant that needs to be "worked", you are just wiping it on in a couple different directions for even coverage. Don't mess with it after it flashes without re wetting the pad.

This makes sense Chris, but there were 2 primary issues I had with it was that it. 1) It flashed SO FAST. Mere Seconds. Literally. I kid you not. And 2) When it DID flash, it flashed with those streaks on the paint!!! It did not flash clear, like you say or like I expected it to. Again, why it does this, I have NO idea. I could see the streaks clear as day, with my halogens as my lighting. And those streaks did not go away. Which is why after an hour of me swearing and cringing, I went ahead and polished it using 85RD, power cleaning it again, then glazing, and sealing with Jetseal109. I was ready to give up on OC. But the next day I tried again, and I love the stuff.

The only solution I found was lightly wiping it with a clean MF. Almost like I moved it around, right before it flashed.... I had to do it QUICKLY... within seconds of applying OC via the foam pad.

Again, my method works or worked because I know I have OC on my paint, as evidenced by my video. So I know I did "some"thing right. I was just wondering if anyone else did it this way? Or if anyone else was having the problems I did, and to try my solution.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

FYI... I am starting to LOVE this stuff... I drove the Civic today, and it rained this morning on the way to work (which is why my Z is in the garage ). Anyways, I spent the drive to work looking at the hood and the sides of my car like a LUNATIC as I have NEVER seen rain/water blowing off my hood like that. Ever. And I've seen a LOT of diff't sealants/waxes. I am severely impressed. My car was almost dry upon arrival at my parking spot. Now there were still "some" water beads left, and now it dried with some dirt on there, but my hood for the most part, was squeaky clean. I'm actually looking FORWARD to washing her tonight or tomorrow... I want to see how it looks like after the 1st wash.

I need to try this stuff out on my windshield and plastic trims...

Impressive stuff... a little finicky, but impressive stuff indeed.

 

[Chris Thomas]

My take on your problem is that you were trying to "work" a product that doesn't need to be "worked" and thus you were wiping off a resin that had started to dry...causing the streaks. Try this: add a few drops, wipe side to side with slightly overlapping passes one time. Add a few more drops, wiped top to bottom with slightly overlapping passes one time. Make a trip around the edges of the panel once and let the product flash clear. Work quickly and deliberately. After you see the panel go clear, check from several angles for any areas that haven't gone clear and just even them out with the applicator edges or back. Once the panel has flashed, avoid any unnecessary contact.

 

[Chris Thomas]

...This makes sense Chris, but there were 2 primary issues I had with it was that it. 1) It flashed SO FAST. Mere Seconds. Literally. I kid you not. And 2) When it DID flash, it flashed with those streaks on the paint!!! It did not flash clear, like you say or like I expected it to...

The only solution I found was lightly wiping it with a clean MF. Almost like I moved it around, right before it flashed.... I had to do it QUICKLY... within seconds of applying OC via the foam pad...

OK, the fast flashing is just a lack of product...I mean, it does flash pretty quick, but there should be no reason to go over the same area twice anyway so just try and move quickly.

On the streaks, if you didn't overwork the product like I speculated...did you leave Power Clean on the paint? Power Clean needs to be rinsed and dried after washing with it. That may have caused some reaction with the solvents.

In the end, it's all about getting it on the paint. If you feel it getting tacky, then it is bonding. And if you get good results with a MF wipe, then do it. It should not remove the thickness of the coating as long as you only use enough pressure to make it disappear.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

My take on your problem is that you were trying to "work" a product that doesn't need to be "worked" and thus you were wiping off a resin that had started to dry...causing the streaks. Try this: add a few drops, wipe side to side with slightly overlapping passes one time. Add a few more drops, wiped top to bottom with slightly overlapping passes one time. Make a trip around the edges of the panel once and let the product flash clear. Work quickly and deliberately. After you see the panel go clear, check from several angles for any areas that haven't gone clear and just even them out with the applicator edges or back. Once the panel has flashed, avoid any unnecessary contact.

I might try this again this way Chris, but I am pretty sure I did "close" to that method the first time. Where I think the difference lies is that I did NOT add a few more drops after completed the left to right swipe. I immediately went into the vertical swipe.

However, when I redid it the next time, I purposely only went left to right, and let it flash. I still saw the permanent streaks. In other words, I have never seen it flash clear, without wiping it. Again, I don't know why....... but this ain't rocket science, and I know how to apply WOWA sealants, like UPGP and Opti-seal, so this ain't new and I have been able to have those sealants dry clear perfectly fine. But still, again, I don't know why it flashed with streaks...... maybe it's just me

Is there anything inherently wrong with what I did? Because I know now that with my method, there are NO streaks and perfectly clear, and I know now that I do have OC on my paint (see video) and am very happy with it. Isn't that what matters in the end? Is my OC on my paint not going to perform the same way as others? From what I see, it's doing its job....

 

[sportscarhiatus]

OK, the fast flashing is just a lack of product...I mean, it does flash pretty quick, but there should be no reason to go over the same area twice anyway so just try and move quickly.

On the streaks, if you didn't overwork the product like I speculated...did you leave Power Clean on the paint? Power Clean needs to be rinsed and dried after washing with it. That may have caused some reaction with the solvents.

In the end, it's all about getting it on the paint. If you feel it getting tacky, then it is bonding. And if you get good results with a MF wipe, then do it. It should not remove the thickness of the coating as long as you only use enough pressure to make it disappear.

I agree that it is definitely lack of product. I will add a few more drops next time. Thanks for advice.

As for the powerclean, yes, I rinsed and dried it to a perfect squeaky clean clear feeling (sounds like a commercial or a song... lol). Perhaps there were still some remnants?!?!?!

And yes, in the end, I got it to successfully be streak-free and I am loving OC now... hopefully it will still be permanent for the most part and last as long as your 3 years and going???

thanks Chris.

 

[Chris Thomas]

No problem, glad you are enjoying it. Let me know if I can help with anything else.