My paint has turned flat

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jetman624

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I have an 06 Tundra that is rarely washed, never waxed and always outside. (I know, I know, shame on me) Well as one should expect, the paint had turned from a nice bright white to a flat white on the hood, roof, and tops of the side panels. Two years ago I bought the Wolfgang Swirl Remover Kit, which includes the Swirl Remover, Finishing Glaze, and Sealant. My questions is, assuming this stuff is still ok to use after sitting on the shelf for two years-- Is this right combination of products to be using? Does anybody have any other recommendations, perhaps on the less expensive side?

I should also note that I have the PC 7424 (non XP) and Yellow, Orange, White, and Blue Lake County CCS pads.
 
jetman624 said:
My questions is, assuming this stuff is still ok to use after sitting on the shelf for two years-- Is this right combination of products to be using?

I should also note that I have the PC 7424 (non XP) and Yellow, Orange, White, and Blue Lake County CCS pads.
Click to expand...

Try it. Shake the bottles vigorously for a few minutes, then try some finishing glaze on the white pad. Tape a section 18" by 18", and work that test spot until you're satisfied with the results. Step up to the swirl remover and orange pad if the finishing glaze is not cutting it.
 
I could be wrong, but Toyota used a single stage paint on the white Tundra for a while. I think your year is included. Like I said, I might be wrong on this, but you might want to make sure. Be it single stage or base coat/clear coat, I would still start out with the least aggressive combo you have. In this case a white pad with the finishing glaze. Do a test spot and see what you get with that combo.

Good luck, and line up for your flogging for not taking care of the paint!!!!
 
Having dealt with Toyota single stage white I'd go straight to the orange pad and the stoutest polish/compound you have to start. Go to the yellow pad if no results. That SS white (assuming this is) was one of the very few times I had to use yellow pads and Poorboy's SSR III to obtain results. Obviously that required a "step down" polishing with less aggressive stuff afterwards. What a bear that paint was.

Mike's results with the 360 AIO were quite astounding.......wish I had thought of that at the time but nothing other than rocks in a bottle touched it.
 
wool pad on a makita works for me all the time down here in se fl the sun is killer down here.also put some sealer on when your done will help alot.
 
I actually detailed a white 2006 Toyota Tundra recently. I was surprised how flat the paint was. I had to start with Optimum Compount II on an orange pad and go from there. It was amazing to see the results. That was definitely the most neglected paint I have worked with so far.
 
jetman624 said:
My questions is, assuming this stuff is still ok to use after sitting on the shelf for two years-- Is this right combination of products to be using?
Click to expand...


These products will work fine for restoring the paint if it's not past the point of no return. When a paint reaches the point of no return, no company's products will restore it. That's likely not happened if the paint is in fact a single stage paint. If it's a clear coat finish and turned flat or whitish that's a sign of clear coat failure.


How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint



This article was written to help people with first gen Porter Cable 7724 and 7336 units, also the Meguiar's G100 and G100a, (same tools). But in reality, this article will help anyone using a DA style tool.

The short how-to guide for using a DA Polisher
How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers


The key to removing defects with a Porter Cable DA Polisher is maintaining pad rotation because it's when the pad is rotating that the abrasives are taking little bites out of the paint to remove defects whether they are swirls, scratches, water spots or oxidation.

If you're pads are the 6.5" pads not only are they 6.5" in diameter, but they are also fairly thick and this hinders the first gen PC's from effectively rotating them.

If you haven't already, mark the back of your backing plate using a sharpie marker and this will make it easier for you to see if the pad is rotating under pressure.


Like this,

5inchbackingplateon5_5inchpadHT.jpg




Possibly consider getting 5.5" pads which probably were not available when you purchased your original products... they've only recently become the trend...


5 1/2 inch and 6 inch Buffing Pads on Autogeek's Online Store

5 Inch Backing Plates for DA Polishers - Pictures and Links



:)
 
All of the below articles are related to what you want to do... use this list as a resource and pick and choose the topics to read that interest you...



How to approach buffing out your car for the first time

Wet Buffing Technique

DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide


Here's some more and lots in my article list...

How-To do a "Section Pass" when Machine Polishing with a DA Polisher

The short how-to guide for using a DA Polisher
How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers

The long and in-depth guide for using a DA Polisher
The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher - Includes Videos

How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher

Why it's important to clean your pads often...

How to clean your foam pad on the fly

How to dry a foam pad after hand washing

How to correctly fold and use a Microfiber Towel

The SMAT Pack - Everything you ever wanted to know about Meguiar's SMAT products...

The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you!

Kissing the Finish

Knock out painted roofs first, then tackle the rest of the car...

Here's a tip... don't lift the pad off the paint till you've turned the polisher off and the spinning pad has slowed down...

What not to do when detailing a car!

The Beach Towel Tip

LSP - The definition and the story behind the term

RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...

The Free Floating Spindle Assembly - The Story Behind The Story...

Handle? Or No Handle? - Using DA Polishers Without the Handle

How to break open a coating of wax and remove it by creeping out...

How to Apply Dodo Pastes Waxes by Machine

How To Apply Mothers California Gold Carnauba Paste Wax by Machine

The Final Wipe – Tips for creating a streak-free, show car finish




:)
 
Lots of good info here. Thank a lot guys-- it is much appreciated.
 
What about the Megs MF system for a heavily oxidized tundra? I tried the orange and yellow pads with XMT360 and didn't get the results I was expecting nor the client was expecting. I used the megs mf system on the hood and got really good results but not the same on the vert panels. Was trying to keep the job a 1 step or two step but seems compounding first may be the best way to get what the client wants. This is the toughest paint I have dealt with to date; very inconsistent over the whole truck. I have never seen trash under factory paint until this truck. Made me wonder if the truck had been resprayed in some areas. After looking online I cam across some articles about the bad quality painting at some Toyota plants. It is all making more sense now. Thanks for anymore insight on the matter.
 
ugh toyota super white II paint i hate buffing the stuff!. my celica has same paint. remember guys single stage white is HARD paint. my suggestion is feed the paint with some polishing oils using something like meguiars mirror glaze #7 and letting it soak 12 or so hours. then go on an remove the oxidation i would use a compound on a orange pad, m105, opt compoundII something along those lines to remove the oxidation. now it will take more passes on the SSII white then on say a black finish to remove the oxidation. of course this takes longer to remove. then after you remove the oxidation and get down to fresh paint and have some gloss showing finaly go over with a polish such as m205,opt polishII, then afterwards top with your lsp. just remember with oxidized white use a slower arm speed. if you have a rotary and are fluent with it i would use that with a wool pad and a compound then step down to compound and foam then to polish and lsp....hope you get it looking good. i know its hard to see a difference once you remove the oxidation as white is just one of those paints that hide defects well and dont have that WOW effect of a freshly polished black car.....good luck on it. if you was close to me id offer you a hand!
 
Thanks opie for the info/tips. I don't know why any manufacturer would use a SS paint especially white. I think when the client give the truck back for me to finish I will try and nourish the paint before hand. I don't understand why XMT360 didn't work for me as well as it did for Mike P. and his buddy on his Highlander.?:dunno: Maybe the highlander white isn't as hard. Either way the whole experience has taught me several lessons. Thanks again and will post my results when I get done with the Tundra.
 
opie_7afe said:
ugh toyota super white II paint i hate buffing the stuff!. my celica has same paint. remember guys single stage white is HARD paint. my suggestion is feed the paint with some polishing oils using something like meguiars mirror glaze #7 and letting it soak 12 or so hours. then go on an remove the oxidation i would use a compound on a orange pad, m105, opt compoundII something along those lines to remove the oxidation. now it will take more passes on the SSII white then on say a black finish to remove the oxidation. of course this takes longer to remove. then after you remove the oxidation and get down to fresh paint and have some gloss showing finaly go over with a polish such as m205,opt polishII, then afterwards top with your lsp. just remember with oxidized white use a slower arm speed. if you have a rotary and are fluent with it i would use that with a wool pad and a compound then step down to compound and foam then to polish and lsp....hope you get it looking good. i know its hard to see a difference once you remove the oxidation as white is just one of those paints that hide defects well and dont have that WOW effect of a freshly polished black car.....good luck on it. if you was close to me id offer you a hand!
Click to expand...

Feeding the paint isnt so much as important or totally necessary in modern single stage paints to remove oxidation. The whole method of feeding with an oily glaze is to preserve the original finish of older paints. Modern day polyurethane single stage paints are catalyzed paint systems that while are still slightly porous (to a degree) than a base-clear system they are not as porous older lacquer/enamel paints.

If you want to use an oily glaze use it after paint correction. For example, if you feed the paint first there is only so much paint the oils can penetrate, say 10 microns, and the compounding and polishing step you remove 8 microns of paint. There would only be 2 microns left of hydrated paint.

With newer single stage paints most often all that is needed is a good chemical cleaner to remove oxidation.
 
Thanks Alan for even more great info. I was wondering about the whole feeding oils into the paint then compounding/polishing the paint, and possibly the oils, away. I think after compounding might be a better process with newer SS paint. I think I will try and use megs #7 glaze or some PBW white glaze. Then seal it all in with some Klasse or/and WGDGPS. Thanks for letting me bump this thread up and giving me feedback.:)
 
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