My plan... Would like your opinion... NOOB ALERT...

[ROMEO]

Ok, so my new toys should be here tomorrow (Thanks AG) And I plan on getting busy (Maybe next week, since it seems line weather might be ugly here in NY friday) and after a week reading AG trying to put my starter kit together, and another week reading on how to, this is my original plan...

The vehicle is a 2007 Jeep Commander (It gets to be off road 3-4 times a year) It has the famous swirls, and a few light pin stripes from the trails...

-Wash

-Clay

-Menz Intensive Polish (Would you recommend the white or orange pad?).

-Menz Final polish (Grey pad?)

-Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 Blue pad ( Does this have too much cutting power for this step? If I'm not mistaken it has almost the same cutting power as the Finishing polish)

-Menz Power Lock Polymer Sealer (Red pad?)
-2 coats of P21s 100% Carnauba wax (Grey/Red Pad?) 12-24 hours apart.

-303 for the black plastic moldings (I was gonna try ICE by turtle wax to prevent product to run onto the paint) Does 303 runs down when it gets wet?


I have the flex 3401 and the PCXP coming, I plan on using the 3401 for the heavier things like polish, and the PCXP for applying/removing wax, sealer, and for the smaller areas like the A column and things like that.

I have been reading about jewling and I was wondering if I could try it with the menz final polish would work for that? (From what I have seen, it might be too rough) Or if you would recommend something I could get at my local auto parts...

One more thing, I do not have access to a garage, so my only option is the carport at my building, at least I will not be under the sun, but since this is gonna take me more than one day, one, because it is my first time, and two, because the sealant and wax had to cure, what should I do the second/third day before I start to make sure I remove any dust that will get to the Jeep? will some quick detailer, and MF be good enough to "re prep" the paint before I continue?

THank you for all the help I had already gotten out of all the posts and how to treads in here, but I just seem to need one more push... Can't wait to get busy, and hopefully the results are something I want to show here...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Congrats on all the goodies... just to note, you'll tend to get more people answer and better quality answers if you only start with a few questions, say 2-3 questions.

The reason for this is lots of text and lots of questions will tend to make people look for something easier to read or reply to...

That said, let me take a stab at your questions by using the "Quote" feature for replying and then going into the Editor Mode plus expanding my message box.


How to use the "Editor Mode" to break a single quoted message up into smaller quoted sections

How to expand the message box

The vehicle is a 2007 Jeep Commander (It gets to be off road 3-4 times a year) It has the famous swirls, and a few light pin stripes from the trails...

Not that it matters, but what color is it?

Autogeek Buffing Pad Comparison Chart
-Menz Intensive Polish (Would you recommend the white or orange pad?).
For removing your worst defects, stick with the more aggressive orange pad.

-Menz Final polish (Grey pad?)

-Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 Blue pad ( Does this have too much cutting power for this step? If I'm not mistaken it has almost the same cutting power as the Finishing polish)

For a daily driver, and something that's taken off road, you really only need to use on of the polishes above and do on step, not both. Final Polish is a tick more aggressive than Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 2.0

At this point in the process either of the foam pads will work for what you're trying to accomplish.

Autogeek Buffing Pad Comparison Chart

-Menz Power Lock Polymer Sealer (Red pad?)
-2 coats of P21s 100% Carnauba wax (Grey/Red Pad?) 12-24 hours apart.

Or use a blue or gray finishing pad, they are all soft and gentle to the finish at this point in the process... The most important thing is to dedicated a product to a pad, don't cross contaminate products to pads.

-303 for the black plastic moldings (I was gonna try ICE by turtle wax to prevent product to run onto the paint) Does 303 runs down when it gets wet?

If you leave too much of any product on plastic it will tend to run off, that's because plastic doesn't absorb very well so most products will tend to be topical.

I have the flex 3401 and the PCXP coming, I plan on using the 3401 for the heavier things like polish, and the PCXP for applying/removing wax, sealer, and for the smaller areas like the A column and things like that.

Sounds good...

I have been reading about jewling and I was wondering if I could try it with the menz final polish would work for that? (From what I have seen, it might be too rough) Or if you would recommend something I could get at my local auto parts...

Jeweling is usually done with the least aggressive polish in your arsenal, maybe try your Wolfgang Finishing Glaze for this step.

Again, what color is the Jeep? If it's black you might see a difference, if it's white or silver you're not going to gain much visibly... but you can do it if you like anways...

what should I do the second/third day before I start to make sure I remove any dust that will get to the Jeep? will some quick detailer, and MF be good enough to "re prep" the paint before I continue?

In most cases since the Jeep is under cover you should be able to wipe the panels clean using a spray detailer and good, clean microfiber towels.

If you're going to break the Jeep up into one or two days...

Pick a number of panels and do all the steps up to wax on them and then the next day start in with the untouched panels removing the swirls on them.

I would get the entire Jeep up to where everything is cleaned, polished and coated with the Menzerna, and then apply the P21S at this point.

You can tackle this job a number of different ways, not super important at the end of the day...

Thank you for all the help I had already gotten out of all the posts and how to treads in here, but I just seem to need one more push... Can't wait to get busy, and hopefully the results are something I want to show here...

Looking forward to hearing of your sucess...


:xyxthumbs:

 

[Bonifax]

Mike is the ultimate teacher!!!

 

[ROMEO]

... just to note, you'll tend to get more people answer and better quality answers if you only start with a few questions, say 2-3 questions.

I will make sure to keep that in mind for the future, thanks!

Not that it matters, but what color is it?

Silver... ( I already removed some of that mud... )

For a daily driver, and something that's taken off road, you really only need to use on of the polishes above and do on step, not both

You just saved me one step, I was thinking that if I use the Menz intensive polish, I had to use a final polis as well in order to get the best gloss possible... ( BUt as you always say, start with the least aggressive option, I will try the finish polish first on the test spot)

Or use a blue or gray finishing pad, they are all soft and gentle to the finish at this point in the process... The most important thing is to dedicated a product to a pad, don't cross contaminate products to pads.

I will do that... I was thinking of making my pads on the back with a sharpie, good idea?

Jeweling is usually done with the least aggressive polish in your arsenal, maybe try your Wolfgang Finishing Glaze for this step.

Again, what color is the Jeep? If it's black you might see a difference, if it's white or silver you're not going to gain much visibly... but you can do it if you like anways...

Well, it seems as if you just saved me another step, the Jeep is silver, I guess that depending on how much things are taking me, I might give it a try, after all, I already got the gold pad coming.

In most cases since the Jeep is under cover you should be able to wipe the panels clean using a spray detailer and good, clean microfiber towels.

If you're going to break the Jeep up into one or two days...

Pick a number of panels and do all the steps up to wax on them and then the next day start in with the untouched panels removing the swirls on them.

I would get the entire Jeep up to where everything is cleaned, polished and coated with the Menzerna, and then apply the P21S at this point.

You can tackle this job a number of different ways, not super important at the end of the day...

I'm hoping I can get to finish the sealer on the first day, and then just do the wax allowing the proper cure time...

Looking forward to hearing of your sucess...

Thank you for taking the time to help me with this project! I will make sure to update on the final outcome...

Mike is the ultimate teacher!!!

He sure is!!! The impression I have gotten from reading his posts and how to's, is that this is way more than a business, it seems to be a passion, that he shares with us...