My Second Detail- Hooked and Frustrated

Mastercraft241

New member
Joined
Jan 4, 2012
Messages
171
Reaction score
0
Ok guys, first of all thank you to everyone posting informative threads, reviews, product information, and how to articles. It truly makes it easy and a pleasure to get into this hobby/sport/art with ease. I have always been into detailing, however I was generally more into boats/gelcoat which was generally very easy to work with. After I bought my first true performance vehicle I began reading up on auto geek. I did one detail with the 7424XP and was so frustrated with the vibration issue I faded away from orbitals. I began doing my own cars with a rotary which proved to be effective in keeping the shine, however I was not doing true paint correction. After 2 years or so my neighbors and friends began catching on to how well I kept my stuff. Through perseverance of reading through autogeek on a regular basis I was able to acquire enough knoweldge and know how through testing form and methods to tackle my first clients. I took a jump and bought around $800 worth of supplies, including the rupes 21lhr, menzera, sonax pf 4/6 and a variety of cleaning supplies. Ok so that's the background.

My second detail: 2005 Toyota Camary
After some reading through auto geek, I read an informative thread how to make money from detailing. In short, the thread basically spoke about setting up basic plans and creating an "additional add on" sections. I set up my pricing and gave it out to a couple friends. One of them immediatley contacted me and set up an appointment. I was excited to have him contact me because he really does appreciate good work and with proper training will be able to maintain the finish of the car with proper washing methods.

First of all, I have to say the reaction on his face was he saw the car has offically hooked me into detailing. It was like a 4 year old getting his first toy. He was ESTATIC.... and I really mean ESTATIC. He showed up early, before I was able to apply the final coat of blackfire and he picked up the wax and started doing it himself (I monitored him to make sure he was applied properly)! I was happy just to get that kind of reaction out of the customer.

The frustration:
I've posted about this a couple times, but I just cant seem to cope with the Menzerna FG400 and MF pad. It is just to damn fing difficult. I've tried applying 3 dime size dots working a 2 x 2 area, spininning the buffer at 4, spinning at 6, using distilled water, working the product for 5-6 slow passes, you name it and I've tried it. Once I shine the brinkman LED light its stupid cloudy and still has very fine scratches. I've gone as far as following up with Sonax PF 4/6 with a yellow rupes and Its STILL cloudly. Also, note I clean the pad after each area.

What I've found out with the combo is the following
1. Spinning at 4 does not work the product enough
2. Spinning at 6 does work it in, but finishing off extremely cloudy under LED (maybe this is normal with LED?)
3. Spraying the MF pad with distilled water is a big no no as the product cakes up.
4. Once you use too much product theres no turning back the pad is going to dust like crazy.

I'm not sure what to do... im $100 into the Menzerna/MF set up and I'd really like to use the rest of it up. What frustrates me to no end is the fact that people are getting great finish with this combo with ease and I'm not. I know its possible, and people do it on a daily basis.... so I should be able to do it as well. Any help is greatly appreciated. Attached are before after pics. Note in the pic showing the swirls and the after, to the left is the cloudiness I, referring to.
 
You will need to use a foam pad with a finishing polish to get rid of the haze with soft paint you will have to do this. I use FG400 for one steps all the time. Did you prime the pad with polish or water cause you need to prime the pad with product and keep pad very clean. Do not use water with the MF pads. You should clean the pad every panel or more often.
 
Per Todd Helme testing of Fg400 and M105:

In terms of cutting power they rank in the following, from most aggressive to least aggressive:
Meguiar's M105 UCC / Microfiber Cutting Pad
Menzerna FG400/ Cyan Foam Cutting Pad
Meguiar's M105 UCC/ Cyan Foam Cutting Pad
Menzerna FG400/ Microfiber Cutting Pad


However in terms of finishing ability, from best to worst:
Meguiar's M105 UCC/ Cyan Foam Cutting Pad
Menzerna FG400/ Cyan Foam Cutting Pad
Meguiar's M105 UCC/ Microfiber Cutting Pad
Menzerna FG400/ Microfiber Cutting Pad
 
Toyota is known for being soft, thats what makes many of their cars cheaper. I would try using a less abrasive polish such as meguiars ultimate compound or m205
 
Have you tried SPF and the Rupes yellow pad first to see if you don't need to use a MF pad and fg400? On soft paint cars that combo is all I need most of the time. I only use MF pads on hard paint too. If I must use a compound on a soft paint car I use the yellow bns foam pad.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
You will need to use a foam pad with a finishing polish to get rid of the haze with soft paint you will have to do this. I use FG400 for one steps all the time. Did you prime the pad with polish or water cause you need to prime the pad with product and keep pad very clean. Do not use water with the MF pads. You should clean the pad every panel or more often.
I primed the pad with fg400 by spreading it with my hand then cleaning it by applying a mf against the buffer. I then put 3 dime size dots and began buffing. I beleive you warned me about water before but I decided to try it as I had nothing to lose. I've been cleaning the pad after each 2 x 2 area.
Toyota is known for being soft, thats what makes many of their cars cheaper. I would try using a less abrasive polish such as meguiars ultimate compound or m205
The dulness is due to the paint being soft and using too much of an aggressive polish? Would i have been better of using the sonax pf 4/6?
 
Have you tried SPF and the Rupes yellow pad first to see if you don't need to use a MF pad and fg400? On soft paint cars that combo is all I need most of the time. I only use MF pads on hard paint too. If I must use a compound on a soft paint car I use the yellow bns foam pad.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

:iagree::dblthumb2:
 
I have done a few black Toys and like others have said Toys paint and Honda paint is very soft. I find MF pads too aggressive for these paints. I find usually a good polish or AIO like D151 is good enough.

This is why everyone says to do a test spot first. I always google the car I am working on prior to the job to see if there are any threads about whether the paint is hard or soft, so I know ahead of time.
 
I have done a few black Toys and like others have said Toys paint and Honda paint is very soft. I find MF pads too aggressive for these paints. I find usually a good polish or AIO like D151 is good enough.

This is why everyone says to do a test spot first. I always google the car I am working on prior to the job to see if there are any threads about whether the paint is hard or soft, so I know ahead of time.

agree with the google paint part. i find myself doing that when im not even polishing anything lol. also yes on the test spot too. my honda paint only need meg UC and a white pad to remove all the swirls off. therefore a toyota shouldn't be anymore worst than a meg UC and an orange pad. everything else under that is probably way too aggressive. so test spot, test spot, and test spot. can't stress that enough.
 
Im glad the car came out great. Luckily I had PF 4/6 which i used with a yellow pad for some spots I wasn't completely satisfied with. From what I can tell, it looks like some panels were painted which is where the mf fg400 worked well with. Todd from pureshine was nice enough to speak with me over the phone and we beleive it is to due not cleaning the mf pad properly. I have been using a microfiber and holding it over the buffer, but it seems that is not the correct method. As such, I ordered the Meg Cleaning brush. I'll update everyone on the progress!
 
I primed the pad with fg400 by spreading it with my hand then cleaning it by applying a mf against the buffer. I then put 3 dime size dots and began buffing. I beleive you warned me about water before but I decided to try it as I had nothing to lose. I've been cleaning the pad after each 2 x 2 area.

I think that might be a portion of the issue. If you're cleaning on the fly like Mike Phillips does in his how-to thread, a terry cloth towel is the way to go, due to the roughness of the nap. MF is too soft, so you're not getting it all off. I've read from others who've use MF disks that blowing off the dried stuff with CA is the way to go. Maybe a combination of cleaning on the fly with the terry cloth towel & a few blasts from the CA will do the trick.

Also, sounds like the other theories might be right about the aggressive pad vs. soft paint. Wish we had some type of spreadsheet or chart on a sticky, to keep track of the various hard/soft paints. I can't seem to remember them all.
 
I think that might be a portion of the issue. If you're cleaning on the fly like Mike Phillips does in his how-to thread, a terry cloth towel is the way to go, due to the roughness of the nap. MF is too soft, so you're not getting it all off. I've read from others who've use MF disks that blowing off the dried stuff with CA is the way to go. Maybe a combination of cleaning on the fly with the terry cloth towel & a few blasts from the CA will do the trick.

Also, sounds like the other theories might be right about the aggressive pad vs. soft paint. Wish we had some type of spreadsheet or chart on a sticky, to keep track of the various hard/soft paints. I can't seem to remember them all.

Agree. I use a terry cloth to clean my MF pads on the fly.

Also agree on the sticky or chart and made that suggestion in another thread. Maybe we should start our own thread with a list of auto manufactures, problem is cant go back to original post and edit it.
 
Agree. I use a terry cloth to clean my MF pads on the fly.

Also agree on the sticky or chart and made that suggestion in another thread. Maybe we should start our own thread with a list of auto manufactures, problem is cant go back to original post and edit it.

Maybe an open format like Google Docs can be provided in the first post. Just a link and the format started, and then it'll grow from there until a more formal doc can be created.

I think something like that would help new people like me and ones like Mr. Mastercraft here who get frustrated because he wasn't aware of Toyota's soft paint. I didn't know that either.
 
Maybe an open format like Google Docs can be provided in the first post. Just a link and the format started, and then it'll grow from there until a more formal doc can be created.

I think something like that would help new people like me and ones like Mr. Mastercraft here who get frustrated because he wasn't aware of Toyota's soft paint. I didn't know that either.

I think that's a great idea. Although paint hardness will differ from car to car, it would be a great starting point to have that kind of data. Thank you to everyone again!
 
Maybe an open format like Google Docs can be provided in the first post. Just a link and the format started, and then it'll grow from there until a more formal doc can be created.

I think something like that would help new people like me and ones like Mr. Mastercraft here who get frustrated because he wasn't aware of Toyota's soft paint. I didn't know that either.

I agree, you should get started on it right away.....................lol
 
Soft or hard paint the best way to get great results is aways a test spot. I use MF pads on all paints what it comes down too is what product you use really. I love people who have advice but have never shown their work ever.
 
Soft or hard paint the best way to get great results is aways a test spot. I use MF pads on all paints what it comes down too is what product you use really. I love people who have advice but have never shown their work ever.

Umm, were you referring to me on the last sentence?

I post almost all my details on AG, Megs, DB, my website and FB and I did state that this is why you should do a test spot first earlier in this thread.

If you weren't then, disregard.
 
Umm, were you referring to me on the last sentence?

I post almost all my details on AG, Megs, DB, my website and FB and I did state that this is why you should do a test spot first earlier in this thread.

If you weren't then, disregard.

My guess, he's talking about me. I'm new-ish. I work on my own cars as a hobby and therefore don't do show-n-shine posts. I have practiced enough and read enough to pass along info, though.

And by-the-way, I'll be posting up that shared spreadsheet on paint hardness today. I can contribute to this in forum in ways other that showing my work, right? :)
 
Back
Top