My unbiased (nightmare) review of PBL V2 Diamond paint coating and Wolfgang Uber Ceramic

[Ebg18t]

Very interesting results. Having used WG Uber Ceramic in 70deg & 95deg weather I find it works better (easier) in 70deg weather. My technique was different. I did 2 stripes on the Lake County application, applied to small section of paint using a cross hatch pattern, waited 45 sec, went over the section again, then waited 45 sec., at this point I wiped, leveling any high spots. In 95deg weather I only waited 30 sec between steps.

When I say small section of paint, my hood was 4 sections, door was 2 sections. I found that working on small sections reduced high spots. I also used one MF for the initial leveling and a 2nd MF for follow up after.

 

[emmjay]

Very interesting results. Having used WG Uber Ceramic in 70deg & 95deg weather I find it works better (easier) in 70deg weather. My technique was different. I did 2 stripes on the Lake County application, applied to small section of paint using a cross hatch pattern, waited 45 sec, went over the section again, then waited 45 sec., at this point I wiped, leveling any high spots. In 95deg weather I only waited 30 sec between steps.

When I say small section of paint, my hood was 4 sections, door was 2 sections. I found that working on small sections reduced high spots. I also used one MF for the initial leveling and a 2nd MF for follow up after.

Hey man, yeah I know. I felt horrible when I saw all the high spots and dry spots. I did small sections too, my small sections were a lot smaller. My hood was 8 sections lol - so a lot smaller. Maybe my garage is just too open so I had some nice warm winds too. On sections where I applied heavy and wiped of wet I have no high spots or smudges.

However, on sections where I spread, waited, spread and then wiped I have plentyyyy. I just examined my paint at sunset again yesterday and looks like i have a lot more smudges and high spots than I first noticed. I bent down all the way to the ground and noticed them on almost all panels except where I applied heavy and wiped of wet.

It's okay though. I am still for coatings - just not the user friendly ness of them or the cost. One day hopefully And ofcourse, PBMG made these coatings a lot easier than other coatings out there, but it still has a long way to go for coatings to be more acceptable I think.

Thanks for the feedback though

 

[TTQ B4U]

Did a couple of cars with this in the past few weeks. Flashes pretty quick, apply the wipe off...about 80 degrees inside garage.

^^ this. Haven't used PBL but McKee's 37 is easy to use. I spray the applicator, not the surface, wipe back and forth over smaller sections at a time and work the product over the paint and watch it flash. I complete the entire panel and then buff away any high spots. Zero issues. Once done with the vehicle I went over it with Uber WW as a way of making sure the coating is even and just plain POPS! Works very well.

 

[Cruzscarwash]

so I have coated my personal car in half M37 and half PBL

all my work is done in direct sunlight and normally in temps over 100degrees

PBL
I don't like it near as much as I like M37. PBL does flash very fast, as in if I sprayed the panel before u can even move my hand down to bring up the applicator to spread its dry or flashed, and as you said you can see the droplets. my fix to this is one of 2 things, spray the panel and then spray the applicator which helps SOME. the best method I have found is spraying 2 sprays onto the applicator (one on the lower part, one on the upper part) and then break up into small sections. Hood is approx. 8 sections and each door is 4 sections. I spray the applicator do one long swipe the distance of my working area and then wipe from that line out to the end of my working area, I then reverse the wipe pattern and final with the cross direction to finish a cross hatch pattern.

M37
it also flashes very fast but the fluid does not seem as "heavy" or dense as PBL so I can work it a bit longer before I have to wipe but my method is exactly the same as before, I spray the applicator twice and then apply and wipe.


after they are applied then I use the PBL booster and spray a folded MF twice and wipe half a panel, new side spray twice then the other half. this seems to give me the best results and still does not take that much time to coat an entire car and the results are amazing IMO

 

[Valky]

I can't stop laughing after reading your post, I know what are you facing.

Let's me tell you, the problem is not on coating bros, it's the paint. All black honda paint in our South East Asia region are true sticky paint, they will suck in even Menzerna Top inspection which is the wiping off chemical. They will suck all chemical in if you apply it by the standard method, you have to "super over apply" to the sponge as lubricant then apply it without any pressure in to specific area, then buff off imediately without waiting a sec.

I have apply PBL coating to several cars, and all are breeze to working except the black Honda, and now the new model of black Nissan and black Mitsubishi strating to acting the same way, there is no problem on silver or white.

Hope this help, just don't loose hope on coating yet, there is really a way to working on them, just different than in EU or USA.

 

[emmjay]

after they are applied then I use the PBL booster and spray a folded MF twice and wipe half a panel, new side spray twice then the other half. this seems to give me the best results and still does not take that much time to coat an entire car and the results are amazing IMO

I like how you guys experiment with coatings lol. I would go broke if I did that.

However, thanks for the tip with the booster. Is this supposed to help level out any high spots, or pick up any stray product by somehow reactivating the product? Would this not interfere with the actual coating? And is the booster used after every section that was worked or after a complete panel.

I'm just curious because I could not even do one section one way, let alone a cross hatch LOL. If the product dried so fast, are you saying you would apply 2 sprays to the applicator, and then 4-5 sprays to the section and this helped the product "not dry" and/or stay wet longer?

I know...lots of questions, bare with me

Thanks man!

 

[Cruzscarwash]

I like how you guys experiment with coatings lol. I would go broke if I did that.

However, thanks for the tip with the booster. Is this supposed to help level out any high spots, or pick up any stray product by somehow reactivating the product? Would this not interfere with the actual coating? And is the booster used after every section that was worked or after a complete panel.

I'm just curious because I could not even do one section one way, let alone a cross hatch LOL. If the product dried so fast, are you saying you would apply 2 sprays to the applicator, and then 4-5 sprays to the section and this helped the product "not dry" and/or stay wet longer?

I know...lots of questions, bare with me

Thanks man!

so ive done it both way

2 sprays on the applicator and then a few on the panel and spread

or

the best method IMO, 2 sprays to the applicator and then just wipe on the surface of the paint.

I always like to do a final wipe no matter what my product is, I normally use Megs last touch detailer but when I started using coatings I use the booster for my final wipe on coating jobs. so once the whole car is 100% done, ill go around and final wipe the car with the booster. it seems to remove highspots and blend and fill area where the paint looks just slightly mismatched like in the pic you showed of your hood.

 

[Rsurfer]

Re: My unbiased (nightmare) review of PBL V2 and Uber Ceramic

Onto the Wolfgang Uber Ceramic review:



I like the syringe a lot! More than the PBL spray. I used a pair of pliers to remove the white tip and replaced it with the blue tip, tighten with pliers and voila. Nice!I suspect your leaking syringe was caused by over tightening with a pair of pliers no less. The syringe is made of plastic and can easily crack

 

[emmjay]

so ive done it both way

2 sprays on the applicator and then a few on the panel and spread

or

the best method IMO, 2 sprays to the applicator and then just wipe on the surface of the paint.

I always like to do a final wipe no matter what my product is, I normally use Megs last touch detailer but when I started using coatings I use the booster for my final wipe on coating jobs. so once the whole car is 100% done, ill go around and final wipe the car with the booster. it seems to remove highspots and blend and fill area where the paint looks just slightly mismatched like in the pic you showed of your hood.

Perfect thank you sir!

 

[emmjay]

Re: My unbiased (nightmare) review of PBL V2 and Uber Ceramic

Onto the Wolfgang Uber Ceramic review:



I like the syringe a lot! More than the PBL spray. I used a pair of pliers to remove the white tip and replaced it with the blue tip, tighten with pliers and voila. Nice!I suspect your leaking syringe was caused by over tightening with a pair of pliers no less. The syringe is made of plastic and can easily crack

That could very well be the case, however I did not over tighten it. It was snug as they call it. I did not want to overtighten for the fear of cracks. Either way, it could very much be possible that I cracked it. However, it was around the blue tip that it was leaking so you could say between the syringe threads and the blue tip? Its okay though, I lost 4 ml of product, what to do.

 

[tdekany]

Sorry to hear about your trouble. You are not alone. The combo of black paint, heat AND humidity is the worst combination that could happen for a coating. I ran into this issue twice in my coating career - I never ever coat black paint in those conditions anymore. So IF there is a next time, do not do it when hot and humid and stay away from black colors. BUT, if you are stubborn, Scott gave you the right answer. Apply product, wait a few seconds while it flushes, reapply more product and wipe right away.

As far as removing high spots, and while I don't know anything about this product, I would be concerned to use a polish on it before the coating cures. Most of these semi permanent coatings need a week to cure, but I'd check with AG about cuing time to make sure. That is when "I" would try to hand polish off the high spots. The roof I'd treat the same, except you may need to use a machine to polish the area off and reapply. Coatings are definitely not like applying sealants or waxes.

 

[tdekany]

BUT well worth it.