My windshield has a terrible glare at night, what do I do?

itsme123

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Hi all, new to this site. I just bought a Nissan from a private seller and the glare on it at night is a nightmare. Any light looks like a rope light coming towards me. It is amazingly difficult to see at night in the car. I've noticed that the windshield has streaks in the shape of the windshield wiper that I can't remove and it almost looks like a film on it too. There appears to be dirt ingrained in the windshield as well. What I've done so far: washing with soap and water, straight vinegar, Windex, alcohol, rain-x windshield cleaner, rain-x original formula. Nothing has worked. Please help!!
 
Before reaching for a glass polish (cerium oxide) try using a chrome polish. For years, we sold our Chrome Polish as Chrome and Glass Polish, and the instructions still indicate it's good for glass.

Apply with a terry cloth applicator, massaging onto the surface.

Let dry and buff off with a clean dry towel.

I do my windows (inside and out) twice a year like this, in addition to my bi-weekly cleaning with a regular glass cleaner.

It will take all the film off that's causing those flares.
 
I've owned a few older, classic cars with really scratched up windows and glare is the problem from the scratches and it's the worst during night driving.

Posted this yesterday to this thread,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...30213-large-piece-wood-hit-my-windshield.html


I've used the Diamondite® Glass Resurfacing Crème with the Lake Country 4 Inch Glass Cutting Pads to remove scratches using a rotary buffer. It actually worked pretty well.

It's messy but works... cover up any nearby plastic or rubber trim.


:)
 
Perhaps a bit of mild abrasive...like baking soda or Bon Ami cleanser (specific brand name, don't substitute) will break through the grime without scratching.

If the windshield is actually scratched (fingernail test) you're probably stuck with replacing the windshield.
 
I've owned a few older, classic cars with really scratched up windows and glare is the problem from the scratches and it's the worst during night driving.

I've used the Diamondite® Glass Resurfacing Crème with the Lake Country 4 Inch Glass Cutting Pads to remove scratches using a rotary buffer. It actually worked pretty well.

It's messy but works... cover up any nearby plastic or rubber trim.

I agree with this but it's also possible as Forrest noted that there can be a lot of buildup inside or out (inside could be vinyl fog or nicotine, outside just road film buildup or water spotting), which would indicate a different kind of polishing (again as Forrest noted) than the scratch removal regimen. Of course the report of wiper trails would point to scratches...or the double whammy of scratches on the outside, fog on the inside!
 
Before reaching for a glass polish (cerium oxide) try using a chrome polish. For years, we sold our Chrome Polish as Chrome and Glass Polish, and the instructions still indicate it's good for glass.

Apply with a terry cloth applicator, massaging onto the surface.

Let dry and buff off with a clean dry towel.

I do my windows (inside and out) twice a year like this, in addition to my bi-weekly cleaning with a regular glass cleaner.

It will take all the film off that's causing those flares.
Thanks for the tip going to have to try that out .
 
I like to use DP's Glass Restorer on outside glass and then seal with Aquapel. You also need to remove all the coating from the inside which comes from plastic, for that Stoners Invisible Glass (aerosol version) works well.
 
Before reaching for a glass polish (cerium oxide) try using a chrome polish. For years, we sold our Chrome Polish as Chrome and Glass Polish, and the instructions still indicate it's good for glass.

Apply with a terry cloth applicator, massaging onto the surface.

Let dry and buff off with a clean dry towel.

I do my windows (inside and out) twice a year like this, in addition to my bi-weekly cleaning with a regular glass cleaner.

It will take all the film off that's causing those flares.

Thanks for the tip going to have to try that out .

:props:
 
Here is an older picture after I had used Mothers Chrome polish in some test spots....guess where I used it. Water sheets off quickly.

IMG_2848-1.jpg
 
Before reaching for a glass polish (cerium oxide) try using a chrome polish. For years, we sold our Chrome Polish as Chrome and Glass Polish, and the instructions still indicate it's good for glass.

Apply with a terry cloth applicator, massaging onto the surface.

Let dry and buff off with a clean dry towel.

I do my windows (inside and out) twice a year like this, in addition to my bi-weekly cleaning with a regular glass cleaner.

It will take all the film off that's causing those flares.
Just tried mother's chrome polish on my glass. Let it dry, it would not buff off, there were streaks everywhere. Had to go over it thoroughly with glass cleaner to remove it. What could I have done wrong?
 
Just tried mother's chrome polish on my glass. Let it dry, it would not buff off, there were streaks everywhere. Had to go over it thoroughly with glass cleaner to remove it. What could I have done wrong?

Gee Mark, maybe you should stick to chrome with it. :D
 
You apply like on a chrome rim - apply a thin coat, rub in a circular motion for good coverage. Let dry to a haze and it wipes off.

You used 05208 Chrome Polish, not 05100/05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish, right?
 
You apply like on a chrome rim - apply a thin coat, rub in a circular motion for good coverage. Let dry to a haze and it wipes off.

You used 05208 Chrome Polish, not 05100/05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish, right?
It's chrome polish for sure.

I may have put it on too thick, that's the only thing I can think of. Even so, shouldn't it still wipe off clean, just with a little more effort?
 
It's chrome polish for sure.

I may have put it on too thick, that's the only thing I can think of. Even so, shouldn't it still wipe off clean, just with a little more effort?

If it dried all the way through, sure.

Maybe you can drive over to Huntington Beach and one of our folks can show you?
 
In a thin coat and with average humidity - by the time you apply to one side of the windshield, and work across to the other; the starting side should be dry.
 
To the OP, make sure the inside is well cleaned so you're not chasing something that's not there (on the outside). Because if the car is that neglected it's probably both. And no sense in driving in a dangerous situation while waiting to polish the outside if that's not causing the bad glare.
 
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