Necessary WAX Prep Steps 3 weeks after detail

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highgrade

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I have a few folks that would like to have Collinate 845 applied to their car before winter.
If a detail was done (clean/clay/polish/wax, say with Meguires D/A), what would be the logical steps before applying Collinate 845? I am wondering if I have to basically start over or if there is a basic cleaning process to be done before applying the new layer of wax.
 
highgrade said:
I have a few folks that would like to have Collinate 845 applied to their car before winter.
If a detail was done (clean/clay/polish/wax, say with Meguires D/A), what would be the logical steps before applying Collinate 845? I am wondering if I have to basically start over or if there is a basic cleaning process to be done before applying the new layer of wax.
Click to expand...

Working by hand or machine?

Assuming you have no defects or swirls that need addressed I'd expect a mild clay would be sufficient prep to remove old protection and any contaminents before a fresh coat of 845. In event you have minimal marring from washes or from claying one of many paint cleansers might be a good idea. Perhaps a light polish. It all depends on the condition of the finish, what your goal is and what satisfies you.

TL
 
Hi TL. work to be done by machine (flex 3401).
thanks for the info. I will be sure to closely examine the car and then determine what needs to be done.
 
Like TL said,

Wash and dry the car and then feel the paint. Just in case there was something in the air around the car since it's been waxed. Maybe even do the Baggie Test.

PaintCleaningByHand022.jpg






Then either clay it if needed or hit it with a light polish by machine or hand.


Shouldn't take much to perfectly prepare the paint for application of wax....


:)
 
I agree with Mike and TL, but three weeks is not very long. I would do the baggie test and if it passes that, just use some Optimum Power Clean At 3:1 to remove old wax/sealant then apply 845. As noted above..... If you are not happy with the looks of the paint, then further actions(machine polishing) may be required.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Like TL said,

Wash and dry the car and then feel the paint. Just in case there was something in the air around the car since it's been waxed. Maybe even do the Baggie Test.

Then either clay it if needed or hit it with a light polish by machine or hand.


Shouldn't take much to perfectly prepare the paint for application of wax....


:)
Click to expand...

thanks for the feedback. I will be sure to do this!

Dr Oldz said:
I agree with Mike and TL, but three weeks is not very long. I would do the baggie test and if it passes that, just use some Optimum Power Clean At 3:1 to remove old wax/sealant then apply 845. As noted above..... If you are not happy with the looks of the paint, then further actions(machine polishing) may be required.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. Question....why would I want to remove the sealant? Ideally, I would want to have the sealant and put the wax over the top. Is the 845 good enough to not require sealant? Still learning...so I am curious to the value added of using a sealant with 845
 
highgrade said:
Thanks for the response. Question....why would I want to remove the sealant? Ideally, I would want to have the sealant and put the wax over the top. Is the 845 good enough to not require sealant? Still learning...so I am curious to the value added of using a sealant with 845
Click to expand...

Good question and I am going to answer with my personal opinion and not hard facts..... Even after three weeks, I feel that any LSP has been degraded to some point from the surrounding environment(UV, acid rain, bird droopings, ect.). I would much rather start off with a fresh coat, insuring proper bondage to the paintwork.

Look at it this way....when painting an old fence with peeling, cracked, old paint, the new coat of paint last much longer if you remove the old paint off the fence by whatever means. I feel the same applies to applying a LSP when you are looking to get the most durability out of a product. Of course waiting the 12 hours for a sealant to properly cure then topping that really doesn't apply to this theory.

And as far as 845 being good enough to not require a sealant.... You bet. I have found it to last longer than most sealants. 845 is also what is considered a hybrid. Meaning it uses both a sealant and a carnuba wax to provide protection/beauty to your paintwork.
 
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