Need Advice: First Details, car stays outdoors

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Sealioo

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A litte background:

I have an 06 Black IS350 with moderate swirls.
I've been lurking around here since a few weeks ago, which was when I decided that maybe I should stop paying for details. I had a 3 stage paint correction done(about $600) about 3 years ago, and haven't waxed polished or anything since then. I've been guilty of neglecting my poor car, mainly because I thought detailing was futile since my apartment has outdoor, uncovered alley parking. The car seems to get dirty two days after a wash. After reading these forums, I can see the durability advantages of a proper detail beyond just making the car shiny.

I've decided that I want to tackle detailing myself, and want to invest a little money and time into this challenge

Now I have an idea of the buffer I'd like(Porter Cable), and I feel like I've gained a ton of knowledge about how to properly wash the car and how to use the buffer, but I'm wondering what things I really need to get started.

Here is what I'm thinking so far:

PC Buffer with velcro backing plate
A couple orange pads, white pads, and blue or gray pads

Now is what I need advice one. Which set of detailing products offers the most protection from the elements? Will all waxes do essentially the same thing, or should I be looking for certain types of products to make sure my finish is as protected as it can be? Any recommendations of specific brands?

Thanks for your help. I'll be sure to post before and after pics as soon as I get underway.
 
collinite 845, Menzerna Power lock, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 would all be great choices for long lasting protection.

My suggestion is to stick with sealants and skip the waxes for your application. The sealants are much more durable, but nothing will last forever. I would still re-apply a sealant every 3 months.
 
Not all waxes are the same. There are high end "boutique" carnauba waxes like Wolfgang Fuzion, Pinnacle Souveran and the Dodo Juice line that look great but protect only for a month or so. They exist for the enthusiast who enjoys spending time playing with different waxes and taking care of their car.

On the other hand, there are synthetic sealants that have no wax in them. Instead, synthetic polymers form a barrier of protection on the paint. The primary benefit is that they last far, far longer than carnauba waxes - up to 4-6 months. Examples are Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant, Menzerna Power Lock, and Blackfire Wet Diamond (not sold on Autogeek).

Lastly, there's Collinite 845 which is a combination of the two. It has carnauba wax, but somehow has been formulated to last as long as a sealant. It's considered the gold standard for durability, looks great, easy to apply and remove, and is only $14.99. In your situation, this is the product I would personally recommend.
 
StoneRaizer said:
Lastly, there's Collinite 845 which is a combination of the two. It has carnauba wax, but somehow has been formulated to last as long as a sealant. It's considered the gold standard for durability, looks great, easy to apply and remove, and is only $14.99. In your situation, this is the product I would personally recommend.
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:iagree: For vehicles that are always outside, protection & durability should be the priority.
 
Outside is tough on a car's finish. Sealants tend to offer more protection than a wax, while waxes tend to offer a deeper glow. You can always top a sealant with a wax. Collinite 845 is one of the most durable waxes you'll find. Put that over top of Menz Powerlock and you'll have the most durable protection you can get without going to one of the newer coating-type sealants. And before you ask, I'd learn how ot properly polish a car and apply a standard sealant and wax before I tackled one of the new coatings.

Before you start, read the Detailing How To's (see the top menu bar) and then read all of Mike P's articles: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ke-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html.
 
Since you are new to detailing I'd say menzerna power lock or wolfgang deep gloss sealant, once you get the hang of applying products and can spread them thin then collinite 845 dominates :)
 
Thanks for the quick responses. It looks like Power Lock is the way to go! I think right now my car is begging me for a thorough claying. You can feel the contaminates without the help of a plastic bag.

Does anyone see any issues with my pad choices? Are the CCS pads and the flat pads essentially the same, or would either one serve my purpose better?
 
Sealioo said:
Thanks for the quick responses. It looks like Power Lock is the way to go! I think right now my car is begging me for a thorough claying. You can feel the contaminates without the help of a plastic bag.

Does anyone see any issues with my pad choices? Are the CCS pads and the flat pads essentially the same, or would either one serve my purpose better?
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Which polishes are you going to be using?
 
Sealioo said:
Thanks for the quick responses. It looks like Power Lock is the way to go! I think right now my car is begging me for a thorough claying. You can feel the contaminates without the help of a plastic bag.

Does anyone see any issues with my pad choices? Are the CCS pads and the flat pads essentially the same, or would either one serve my purpose better?
Click to expand...

Some people prefer the flat pads, other prefer CCS or HT. I use the flat pads based on the recommend of several guys here. IMHO, techique is far more important than
the type of pad.

Just make sure you get the 5.5 inch pads if you're getting a PCXP or Meguiar's DA. Vast experience shows that the PC and Meg's just don't have quite enough power to acceptably spin a 6.5" pad. The GG reportedly has enough power to spin the larger 6.5" pads.

I'd also suggest you read up on the Meguiar's Microfiber pads. They came out after I bought polishes and pads, but when those run out I'm going to give it a shot.
 
same car here but an 07.

Just polished it this year using a white LC flat 5.5 inch and Menzerna powerfinish, followed by a black LC flat 5.5 inch and Menzerna super finish.

I've also done panels with an orange LC flat 5.5 and power finish as a one step and it turns out almost as good as the 2 step on black obsidian.

Took me 8 hours (washed and clayed the night before) but the paint corrects very easily. You will have no problems polishing with either Merzerna or Wolfgang TSR and Finishing glaze 3.0
 
LegacyGT said:
Which polishes are you going to be using?
Click to expand...
It seems like the Wolfgang products get good reviews here, so I was thinking of going with their Duo of Swirl Remover and Finishing Glaze.

So would it be correct to perform the following steps?

Thorough Wash(haven't decided on a brand)
Clay(ditto)
Wolfgang Swirl Remover
Wolfgang Finishing Glaze
Menzerna Power Lock

Edit:

The Pinnacle Twins and Porter Cable Kit looks like a good deal, so substitute the Wolfgang products for Pinnacle, and is it still a good method?
 
that kit has 6.5 inch pads. You want 5.5 inch

also, if you are going with WG polishes which are DAT, then you don't want CCS pads. The diminishing abrasive technology (DAT) needs to break down as you work the polish to give you the best finish. CCS pads have those pockets that polish collects in so you will have big crystals mixing with your broken down crystals and possible marring of your finish from the big crystals that haven't broken down enough.

If you are going Menzerna or WG, get LC flats. The hydrotechs are not popular on softer paints for some reason (our paint is on the softer side). I don't have them but that's what I've read. Mark can chime in if he reads this.
 
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