Need advice - Oxidized Paint Correction on 1968 Dodge Charger

gotcha, thanks 2Black1s! I'll do a test patch with some protectants too. I definitely have a good 303 product I use on the vinyl top.

I'll also do another round or two of Meguair's 7 and try Yellow Wax per TMQ.

Re: the first edit of your post. Yeah, I think the buffing on the quarter panel did improve it a bit, but it's actually less of an improvement than it APPEARS to be in this video. This is because the dull patches to the left and right are test sections of Blackfire One Step that I applied and tried to buff off by hand. When I applied the BF One Step by hand, it didn't fully wipe off and sort of rubbed in and made the paint look duller. So the patch on the quarter panel that I buffed actually looks similar to the sections that were only treated with meguair's 7 rubdown, but appears to "pop" compared to the Blackfire One Step hand application patches.

I guess my takeaway from this is that given my very beginner DA skills and my cramped apartment garage, I'm less likely to do six section passes over the entire car and more likely to aim for something I can apply with one DA pass and wipe off, or just hand seal the whole car. Unless people really think a pivot in the way I did BF one step and DA polishing would get markedly better results.

Re: the second edit. Thanks, that would be awesome! I'll PM you.

Thanks again all.
Ted
 
Mike Phillips said:
Not only looks great! Looks respectable!


73070d1618455619-need-advice-oxidized-paint-correction-1968-dodge-charger-c9e95f3f-934f-40da-b2e4-460c81f46adf-jpg







Need a larger before and after in same position like above.


:)
Click to expand...

Yes, absolutely! I have a really good one of the other side before and can replicate the location for a good after shot this weekend.
 
BrokenHero - It looks like we're both fixing red oxidation at the same time. Meguiars #7 is working wonders on my '53 MG-TD, but how to finish it off is the challenge. Here's my thread:

Controlling pigment removal using Mirror Glaze #7 - 1953 MG

I also had issues with the milky look on when testing products for a finish layer. Here are similar 1" test spots with Griot's Best of Show and Poly Waxes.

The oily protectant makes sense since it's clear to begin with, whereas the other waxes etc are milky out of the bottle. So I'll test that next. I've sealed the #7 with #20 AIO sealant and am content with the appearance. I just need to find the right product/process for ongoing protection.

Your Charger looks great!


 
thanks, JohhnyO! Just read your thread. Very cool MG.

So in your pic, the test patches are to the right and look redder/less white? That's Griot's wax and the Meguiar's 20?
EDIT: I now see they are circles and look whitish.

Right now my car is heavily soaked in its 3rd/4th round of Meguiar's 7. I'll wipe it off tonight or tomorrow morning with terry cloth.

I was actually thinking of trying separate patches with Meguiar's 21 Synthetic Sealant, Meguiar's Yellow Wax (per TMQ), 303 Vinyl protectant (per 2Black1s), Meguiar's Ultimate Wax (per 2Black1s's comment on your thread), and now that I'm seeing your thread Meguiar's 20? Hmm, that's a lot. Now I sound crazy. Haha.

You mentioned you're generally pleased with the look after finishing it with Meguiar's 20?

I'm of the philosophy that Meguiar's 7 rubdown helped a ton and anything else is just gravy, but I do feel like it's worth finding the right last step so I can set it and forget it for a bit. Meaning I'm not looking for the sealant to take the shininess up several notches, just seal what the Meguair's 7 was able to accomplish.

As far as maintenance going forward, I got some DP Waterless Wash from AutoGeek. I saw it mentioned in an old thread as a good product for post paint correction cleaning and maintenance. I bought the concentrated version, so if anyone has any tips on whether to mix it stronger or weaker than the ratio on the bottle for my application, please let me know.

Oh, I also tried a small patch with a carnauba wax from Ammo called Creme Paste and the paint looked generally the same as just the #7 (didn't make it white or milky), but it did feel smoother and probably serves to temporarily seal?

Thanks all
Ted
 
BrokenHero said:
I was actually thinking of trying separate patches with Meguiar's 21 Synthetic Sealant, Meguiar's Yellow Wax (per TMQ), 303 Vinyl protectant (per 2Black1s), Meguiar's Ultimate Wax (per 2Black1s's comment on your thread), and now that I'm seeing your thread Meguiar's 20? Hmm, that's a lot. Now I sound crazy. Haha.

You mentioned you're generally pleased with the look after finishing it with Meguiar's 20?
Click to expand...

Have you decided what product to apply over your #7?

I've decided that #20 is best for an all-in-one but not as a sealant over the #7. The photo below shows as test of Griot's Paint Sealant (discontinued but I have 2 bottles) and Megs #20 over paint that's well saturated with at least 4 applications of #7. At this point, the finish has a wet look and both products dull the finish and remove pigment in the process. I think the Griot's leaves a more even finish.

Observations:
  1. I don't think there's an advantage to using a cleaner sealant like #20 at this point, so I'm curious how your #21 sealant looks. Other options in the Megs line would be #26 wax, Ultimate wax and I've seen some good reviews of Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax (not specifically tested on single stage). I also have some #16 paste wax that Mike sent.
  3. My preference is for durability over gloss and it seems like a sealant would last longer... or not. Wipe-on & wipe-off of the sealant is appealing, but maybe machine applied wax is most durable. My desire is to avoid any ghosting or uneven cloudiness.
  5. Lastly, while the wet look from the oils of the #7 is remarkable, my car looks best with sheen not shine. If, after doing the #7 soak, the duller appearance of the Griot's test area had been the result, I would have been entirely satisfied. So I guess I'm looking for a sealant/wax that provides uniform clarity rather than the mottled results I've noticed in some test areas. If my LSP goes down with no pigment removal, then I know I've found the right product.


What are you finding?



seal_test_Small_.jpg
 
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