Need advice quickly on paint correction

[07GTCSvert]

I would like some direction before the sale runs out at noon today.

I did a paint correction a few months ago using the following (have a GG 6" & 3"DAs). My car is a 2007 that had 8K miles when purchased and has been detailed, waxed, polished, etc. by hand 6-7 times a year prior to this. It is a daily driver, but is garaged when not parked at work 8 hours a day and has approx. 45K miles now:

1) Washed and dried car
2) Clayed with nanoskin and then with clay bar (nanoskin did not seem to work as well as clay & I had the nanoskin that attaches to the DA)
3) Taped off the whole car
3) Ultimate compound on LC Orange cutting 5.5 flat pad
4) Still a lot of swirling and some random deep scratches, so used M105 with LC Orange cutting 5.5 flat pad. Was better, but still some random scratches all over the hood and trunk and some light swirling all over.
5) Due to time constraints, did not have time to re-do M105 to see if can get better correction, so moved on to Ultimate polish with LC White polishing 5.5 flat pad
6) Applied DG 501/601 mix with LC Blue finessing 5.5 flat pad
7) Applied DG 105/601 mix with LC Blue finessing 5.5 flat pad
8) Applied DG 111/601 mix by hand
9) Topped with Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845

Fantastic shine and water beading properties, but a little disappointed paint is not defect free.

I now have some kind over overspray on the whole car (possibly spray on tire dressing from my neighbor, not sure). I have tried cleaner waxes, TW bug remover, and DG501/601, but none touch it, so I am now back to claying.

Since I have to clay, I am going to try and do some more correction and want advice on the best way to do this. I plan on doing DP Coating Prep Polish and DP Paint coating after the correction.

I am thinking possibly LC Yellow cutting pad with Chemical Guys Paint Correction 3 No. 700 Intense Cut (if this is stronger than M105).

Any advice on how to get the paint as perfect as possible before the paint coating will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Get some Meguiar's M101 and some fresh foam cutting pads, try the yellow 5.5" LC flat pads.

Use a slow arm speed, firm downward pressure, work small sections at a time.

Anything that doesn't come out is probably deep enough to learn to live with it if this is a daily driver.

That or get some #5000 Trizact in 3" for your 3" Griot's and machine sand LIGHTLY the deeper defects and then remove your sanding marks.

 

[07GTCSvert]

Get some Meguiar's M101 and some fresh foam cutting pads, try the yellow 5.5" LC flat pads.

Use a slow arm speed, firm downward pressure, work small sections at a time.

Anything that doesn't come out is probably deep enough to learn to live with it if this is a daily driver.

That or get some #5000 Trizact in 3" for your 3" Griot's and machine sand LIGHTLY the deeper defects and then remove your sanding marks.

Do you think Optimum Hyper Compound spray with a yellow 5.5" LC flat pad will work or will the M101 be better (I've been doing some research and it sounds like Optimum Hyper Compound spray is nice to work with :xyxthumbs?

 

[Tato]

If you hit the car twice with a cutting pad and M105 and still haven't removed defects, either your car's paint is very hard, or the defects are too deep to be safely removed. You also need to consider your technique - polisher speed, pressure, and arm speed, all considering plenty of pad rotation.

I'd stick with my first option (damn hard paint). That said, I'd get some yellow pads or even the Microfiber cutting discs to do the work.

I never tried M101, but I can recommend Menzerna FG400 to be paired with the MF disc.

The 5000 sanding discs for the 3" griots is also a great addition, don't forget to order a 3" sanding interface as well.

With the 5000 discs and an 'electric sander' you'll be able to work over deeper scratches, and the 5000 grit marks are easily removed even using a polishing pad and a polishing on a DA.

Let us know,

Kind Regards.