Need Guidance on the First Detail Job for a '92 F150

deuce01

deuce01

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Hi Mike,
I've searched and read several of the threads but I'm still not sure where to start. My soon to be 16 year old son just purchased a '92 F150 that's 2-tone (white with burgundy side panels). It's original paint but is very neglected and we'd like to restore it. The hood and roof had tons of tree sap and blackish green stuff (mildew?) all over it so we washed it pretty aggressively and cleaned it using various combinations of Mothers Clay, Meg. Scratch X, Color X and Gold Class Polish with a PC7424 (I know that's not the way we should have done it, but we were excited about his new to him truck and couldn't stand how bad it looked. We'll do it the right way soon). The issue is that during the process we noticed that when we rubbed the red sections while removing the wax, red paint was coming off onto the white terry towel. In doing research on how to best restore the finish I'm now wondering if the paint is single stage or two stage. I would have thought it was two stage, but after reading you "how to tell" article I'm thinking it's single stage. I don't see any checking or white haze that leads me to think the clear coat is failing. So, here are my questions:

1. Do you have any ideas on if it's a single stage or two stage?

2. What's the best course of action we should take to restore the finish?

3. Should we use a compound (i.e Meg. Ultimate Compound) or cleaner wax (Meg. #6)?

To keep it in perspective, he's not wanting a show truck, but just wants to get it "purty" and be able to keep it that way fairly easily.

Thanks in advance for your help and for all the fantastic articles!

M. Slack
 
It's single stage paint if your towels are turning red.

I would do Meguiar's # 7 by hand. First step will take the most work. Rub in the first coat and let sit over night to allow the oils to seep into the paint. This is hard rubbing and bit of grunt work.

Repeat after 1 day. Continue as many applications with a 24 hour time between each application till you think the paint looks good.

What you're doing is cleaning the paint and feeding paint with oils all at one time.

Then wax with Meguiars Yellow wax # 26.

The # 7 and yellow wax can be had at your local Walmart.

Check this out.

Testing...Testing---TR6

Tom
 
With the TR6, I'm doing the rub out 7 times over 7 days.

Will then coat with Meguiars's Yellow wax.
 
Thanks for the info Tom. And I love the TR6! Looks like you've got quite the project in that one.

Looks like it's time to read all of Mike's #7 articles. Can't wait to tell the boy he gets to do the first steps by hand. He's grown attached to the buffer.
 
Follow-up question after reading Mike's "Secret to Removing Oxidation...": Do we want to clay the red paint first or should we start with #7? He started that with clay, but I'm wondering if that would be wasted energy in this case.
 
They have already clayed the truck.

Just get it clean and hit it with # 7.

With the TR6---I didn't even bother with claying. Vacuumed the paint, washed and then went straight to # 7.

Tom
 
We actually only clayed the hood, but I agree with you. I'll have him start with 2-3 coats of #7. Now if it'll just stop raining...
 
Well, I have a follow-up question on the process. We put two coats of #7 on the truck and then wiped it off after it "soaked" for 18 hours or so. The color is definitely deeper and clearer, but we still get pink residue whenever we rub a white towel over the read paint. Is this to be expected? Our plan was to go straight to #26 Yellow Wax, but now I'm not sure. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Munsey
 
deuce01 said:
Well, I have a follow-up question on the process. We put two coats of #7 on the truck and then wiped it off after it "soaked" for 18 hours or so. The color is definitely deeper and clearer, but we still get pink residue whenever we rub a white towel over the read paint. Is this to be expected? Our plan was to go straight to #26 Yellow Wax, but now I'm not sure. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Munsey
Click to expand...

Yes...Still pulling off dead paint. Maybe hit one more time but you can stop. Get a clean terry cloth and remove #7, rub till paint shines and feels slick.

Then go ahead and lay down your # 26.

Tom
 
Thanks Tom. I was starting to think I might want to try Meg. Ultimate Compound next, but was afraid it would remove too much paint and I don't know how thick the paint is in this section. Hopefully the #26 will remove any remaining oxidized paint. I'll post some new pics once we're done.

Munsey
 
Go ahead and do a small "test" spot.

Rub off the # 7 till it shines.

Rub in # 26 and let it sit till it hazes. Then rub off.

See if you like the results. (smooth and glossy) If yes---Then go ahead and finish up.

Observe for next couple months. In October or November before it get too cold, do a light polish using a mild polish and soft finishing pad. Then seal it up with your fav sealant or wax.

You'll be set for winter!

Tom

---No need for a harsh polish like a compound.
 
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