Need help hazing on my clients hood. Pics

Jrocket

Jrocket

New member
Joined
Dec 21, 2012
Messages
581
Reaction score
0
Hey guys I need your help I'll try and make this quick. PICS BELOW

HAZING IS THE PROBLEM

Washed Clients truck
Clayed
Griots Pre wax cleaner wipe down to remove anything possibly left behind after claying
Then used XMT360 AIO w/ a white pad

You can see in a few of the pics where it was cleaning up nice and the up near the hood was still untouched.

When Finished I noticed a bad hazing effect all over.

Now Im not saying this was all me the truck sits outside and they live on the water. So Salt Air from the Gulf has def taken its toll on the paint a lil bit and there was some light oxidiation look and light haze on the hood after washing and claying.

I thought this would clean it up.. It did not.

Yes the pad was primed w/ XMT360 and 2 sprays of water

Client was Understanding Since I had just finished his MINI Vert and Cadillac SRX and they both came out amazing.. Pics up soon

But I told him I would need to check to see the best way to remove this hazing... Do I need a different pad color should I be using ORange or Tangerine?

Should I use Meg's Ultimate Polish Instead?

I really want to remove this hazing but Im not quite sure how.

sorry the pics didnt turn out as great as I wanted them.. You can really notice in pic 1 on the side what the hood is doing.

Thanks for your help... Going to Correct this on Monday

PICS

20130215_165203_zps23db3c03.jpg


20130215_165159_zps8749ca97.jpg


20130215_165156_zpsd2efd82f.jpg


20130215_165150_zps93899ec1.jpg


20130215_145125_zpsc185826d.jpg


20130215_145118_zps6bc77170.jpg
 
Almost looks like it get sanded. I've never seen something like that from outside elements. First this is first and do a tests pot with the least aggressive product. You can determine two things, how hard the paint is and or product and pad combination. I'm not too familiar with Meg's uc compound. I can tell you that I am familiar with Meg's 105 and 205. These two products can pretty much correct any paint on the market( w/ combination of the right pad). If your in a time pinch pick some fg400 and use the least aggressive pad and you possible can finish down lsp ready:)
 
Looks like a Toyota Tundra in white? If so thats a single stage paint, not sure if that will help figure out how to correct
 
I would test with a mild abrasive polish to see evidence of paint potentially on pad. If so be very carefull. To tell you the truth, if it is single stage I would contact your client and explain to him exactly what single stage paint is. Maybe also explaining to him that the potential to cut threw defects could risk hitting the primer:(
 
Yes White Toyota Tundra.. I believe he said it's an 07

The rest of the truck looks pretty good.. but not great there is this strange hazing on other parts but not near as apparent.


Currently all I have at my house it


Ultimate Compound

Ultimate Polish

XMT360

CG BlackLight


I can always pick up some

Megs 105/205 if needed.

I have all color pads except Yellow.


What would be my best plan of attack? with the above products ?Granted I will just do a small test spot first to see what works best from least aggressive first

which product with which pad?

Thanks

- John
 
Wes Bremec said:
Can you verify if it is single stage?
Click to expand...


Just found this after researching on a tundra forum

The Super White paint applied to your Tundra is a single stage paint coating. Vehicles painted with non-metallic colors have no clear coat finish. Paint colors that are available in a metallic or pearl will have a clear coat finish. :eek:

We hope this information has been helpful.

If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us http://www.toyota.com/help/contactus.html.

Sincerely,

Ivette Moreno
Toyota Customer Experience



I have never dealt with a paint job that is single stage and has no clear coat.

No wonder I was having trouble..

I def need help on what to do to correct
 
Just be smart and use your judgement. If I was in your position I would be looking for clarity in the paintwork more so then correction ability......on the topic of products, I have not used either Meg's uc or the other products you stated but I can guarantee you will get great results with the 105 205 combo.
 
Yeah I just know nothing about single stage paint and no clear coat.. all cars I have worked on have had a clearcoat.

Just want to clean up the hazing.. Not looking to do a full correction


Guess Im going to spend the day reading and researching.

Thanks for your Input Wes Bremec


If anyone else sees this that has any advice and has worked with single stage w/ no clear coat Please Chime In Feed back please
 
I've worked on only a couple of single stage paints and one was when i attended boot camp at Autogeek last year.i can tell you that they all have been pretty soft and that worries any OCD detailer
 
I feel bad for your situation. My only question is , Why is the whole truck look like this? Do you not do one panel first to see what you are getting into? Being an old schooler and buffing cars with a rotary buffer for years with car that didn't have clear coat my only suggestion would be nothing over a polish type compound and work it slowly. You may be able to bring it back. You may have to go with 3M Fill& Glaze after that and then put a high qualit carnuba on top. Best I can give without being there.
 
Well I've done 2 white Tundras and 1 white pickup all with single stage paints. M205 on a white LC flat pad worked on them all, never had any hazing problems

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
I would suggest as he did and stay to a polish rather than a compound. M205 with polishing pad would be a start ::)
 
:iagree:
I would definetely go with a mld polish and a polishng pad to stat off. M205 is wonderful to work with and has a long buffing cycle. Give that a try. Ive also used Wolfgang's Finishing Glaze after applying Compound. Works like a charm. Use whatever works best. You have to do a test spot before working the entire car
 
WAXOFF said:
I feel bad for your situation. My only question is , Why is the whole truck look like this? Do you not do one panel first to see what you are getting into? Being an old schooler and buffing cars with a rotary buffer for years with car that didn't have clear coat my only suggestion would be nothing over a polish type compound and work it slowly. You may be able to bring it back. You may have to go with 3M Fill& Glaze after that and then put a high qualit carnuba on top. Best I can give without being there.
Click to expand...


The whole truck doesn't look like this. Well a few sections on the side do but not near to this degree and it was already like that.. Nothing I worked on. I simply washed and clayed and did a spray wax on the rest of the truck after noticing the hood. I will include a pic of it finished from 3/4 rear..

Just the Hood and Front Fenders... I honestly figured it was just due to all the salt air and being outside never garage kept for the past 5 years.

The only section I worked on was the hood.. At first it looked as though the xmt360 was cleaning it up nice.. You can tell in the pics from the front of the hood vs the rear closer to the windshield that is still dirty. When Finished I stepped back looked at it and noticed the strange haze that was still there.

Pics
20130215_170302_zpsf21c93a0.jpg

20130215_170254_zpsd2c8a6dd.jpg
 
This paint must be soft to leave hazing from XMT360. Or maybe the cleaner/wax was over worked (dry buffed)? In any case if it is SS paint then the color will come off on the pad. I'd recommend hitting it with Meguiars #7with polishing pad or waxing pad which will rejuvinate the paint with oils. If that doesn't clear up the haze I like M205 and a white pad then maybe #7 and finally wax. In either case if it's SS getting oil back into the paint will help it.

Also I don't see the need to do a chemical wipe if you plan to polish. That alone could leave hazing. More over your planning on waxing vs sealing so just polish and wax.
 
This is what was all over the truck before I started.

Not just dirt.. this stuff was lightly embedded in the paint.


20130215_104709_zpseea64dae.jpg

20130215_1047251_zps8c0fb395.jpg

20130215_1047131_zps2a699d69.jpg


and not sure what this was I was able to get all the crap off but it left like a stain of some sort even after claying.. though its mostly dissapeared its still there but smooth and light now

20130215_095201_zps9fc03455.jpg
 
rmagnus said:
This paint must be soft to leave hazing from XMT360. Or maybe the cleaner/wax was over worked (dry buffed)? In any case if it is SS paint then the color will come off on the pad. I'd recommend hitting it with Meguiars #7with polishing pad or waxing pad which will rejuvinate the paint with oils. If that doesn't clear up the haze I like M205 and a white pad then maybe #7 and finally wax. In either case if it's SS getting oil back into the paint will help it.

Also I don't see the need to do a chemical wipe if you plan to polish. That alone could leave hazing. More over your planning on waxing vs sealing so just polish and wax.
Click to expand...


Thank You! Im using a GG6 should I be doing the above on about setting 3 or 3.5??
 
primo spaghetti said:
im guessing you washed the paint first...at least i hope so...that embedded dirt might be giving the sanded look if it wasnt properly prepped first...

also for SS paints i belive id look to megs 7 then follow with megs 26?

http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/23740-meguiars-7-mike-phillips.html
Click to expand...


Yep. Used foam gun first . Rinsed off

Hand Washed w/ sheepskin mit and 2 bucket grit guard system then clayed w/ Mothers Clay

Truck came out looking pretty good.. But I didnt notice the paint difference until after starting on the hood with the 360. at first it looked good but then noticed the hazing.

Wonder if I had too much product on the pad... haven't had this prob before .. but def want to correct and learn from it. Like I said earlier though may not have been all on me seeing as the paint had a light hazy appearance to the paint throughout different parts of the truck.. mostly around the front though


I've never run into any problems thus far until this truck.

Since He wasn't looking for a full correction of any sort I chose xmt 360 AIO as I thought this would be a good match for his work truck.

.

Thanks for above link.. about to view it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top