need help with fine scratches!!!

L

luke41

New member
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
I just got done painting my 69 c10 black.I wet sanded clear coat with 1500 and 2000 grit then buffed it with a rotary buffer with foam pad and 3m perfect ii rubbing compound.it is very smooth but I see a lot of very fine scratches that I can not feel and some areas are a lil hazy.should I try buffing again with a wool pad? What would u suggests my next step be?
 
You need to remove them. They are from the wool pad and the rotary buffer. You need a polish and a foam polishing pad.
 
As Evan has said, these fine scratches and haze are caused by the wool pad.

Wool pads are very aggressive, making them useful for removing sanding marks, however they simply do not leave a perfect finish.

You should follow up with a medium and fine polish on the correct foam pads in order to remove the fine scratches and haze and bring out the ultimate gloss and shine to the finish.

Here are some helpful articles for you to read from our very own Mike Phillips:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...s-water-spots-out-automotive-clear-coats.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-swirls-micro-marring-da-haze-tick-marks.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...pots-bird-droping-etchings-micro-marring.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum.../23142-difference-between-swirl-squirrel.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/21413-horrible-swirl-marks.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...le-7424xp-g110v2-griot-s-garage-polisher.html



also... welcome to the AGO forums!

-Zach
 
I didn't use a wool pad I started out with a 3m black foam pad.I was worried about trying a wool pad and taking to much clear off .they look like sanding scratches because they are straight.but I was thinking I need to use a wool pad to get them out since the foam pad didn't. But now would b real worried about taking too much off.
 
Is the rotary the only tool you have?

If so the you will need the wool pad to remove those sanding marks then followed up with a polish and a polishing pad.
 
luke41 said:
I didn't use a wool pad I started out with a 3m black foam pad.I was worried about trying a wool pad and taking to much clear off .they look like sanding scratches because they are straight.but I was thinking I need to use a wool pad to get them out since the foam pad didn't. But now would b real worried about taking too much off.
Click to expand...

I would have been more concerned about that during the sanding steps... it would be wise to have an electronic paint thickness gauge for projects such as that.

You could always invest in a nice DA machine for a safer approach to polishing.
 
would a da work better to help me.what would u guys use. What would b the best compound and polish to use? Im willing to buy what ever I need .I have a lot of time and money in my truck.so willing to do what it takes to make o
It perfect. Thanks for all the help I really appreciate it.
 
luke41 said:
would a da work better to help me.what would u guys use. What would b the best compound and polish to use? Im willing to buy what ever I need .I have a lot of time and money in my truck.so willing to do what it takes to make o
It perfect. Thanks for all the help I really appreciate it.
Click to expand...

You'll find that 99% of us here would tell you to use a DA machine for the polishing.

I would personally use it for the cutting as well since I have no rotary experience, but I know a lot of people still use rotary machines for heavy defect removal and sanding mark removal.

There is no "best compound and polish", but a popular choice is the Meguiar's Professional M105 and M205 products.
 
Just trying to help out.

IMO

You should have started with a wool pad, rotary and rubbing compound, to remove the sanding marks.

You could have even hit it with 3000 (makes buffing sanding marks a lot easier IMO)

Then polish it with a foam pad and a polish

Then you could switch to a DA to remove any Holograms left on the paint with a Rotary

(still wondering if after wool pad/rotary you could switch to DA or
Wool pad/rotary
polish pad/rotary
then switch to a DA)

And you could have jeweled it with a fine polish and a pad with no cut.

The fine scratches might be from your wet sanding. that the foam pad, rubbing compound and rotary were not able to remove because it didn't have enough cut.

I noticed I worked differently than other Detailer's here, so I am just chiming in trying to help out.

Either way good luck!

Art
 
Also you can probably see a lot because you are working on black paint. Especially if it is Jet Black.

Jet Black paint was always an extra step for me.
 
First off yes having a DA to compliment the rotary is a great idea. My preference is the Flex 3401. It has the power to overlap what a rotary would be used for especially if outfitted with a wool pad.

At a minimum get yourself a GG6 DA buffer. If you can afford the Flex get it they are on sale today 15% off plus free shipping.

Traditionally one would use a wool pad on a rotary to remove the sanding marks and 2000 sanding marks will come out pretty easy. Yes you can resand with 3000 grit to make the polishing step even easier. For that matter you can take it to the 5000 grit but that's over kill IMO. Years ago we use to stop at 1200 grit and remove them with a wool pad so your 2000 grit should be plenty good enough.

As mcgovern45 said having a paint guage is really handy but since you just completed painting it my guess is you know how much clear has been sprayed.

Removing 2000 grit with a rotary and foam pads is more challenging. You may have in fact reduced the 2000 grit sanding marks to something like 2500 or 3000 grit already. If thats the case try a test spot and treat it one more time with the rotary and a foam pad. To remove all the marks you will need to use a polishing foam pad and even a finishing foam pad. All can be done with the rotary but it's difficult to finish without holagrams and this is where a DA is worth it's weight.

I too prefer Meg products and M105 plus M205 is a proven combo. I even like M101 better than M105 for heavy compounding. I bet M205 and a white polishing pad on a rotary or Flex 3401 will finish out to a level you are looking for.

If you can post some pictures that would be helpful.

Good luck.
 
Thank for the help.im going to redo it this weekend with wool pad and megs m105.and then get a da to polish. The pics I have don't really show the scratches.will try to get better ones.
 
luke41 said:
Thank for the help.im going to redo it this weekend with wool pad and megs m105.and then get a da to polish. The pics I have don't really show the scratches.will try to get better ones.
Click to expand...

Since you own a rotary I'll assume you know how to use it but I'll offer there are different types of wool pads. Keep the rpms down to 1000-1200 rpms with light pressure. Those 2000 grit scratches will come out very quickly. Be prepared for some micro maring from the wool pad. Mask off stuff you don't want to clean afterwards.

Even w/o a DA you can use a polishing pad usually white and polish like M205 and finish it up really well.

DA's are just brain dead simple to use and safer than rotaries. The two make a great pair for any detailing work. Best bang for the buck is a GG6 DA.

Good luck.
 
Yeah sounds like you know how to use a rotary, and just make sure to check with your hand that you are not creating to much heat with the wool pad/rotary.

Either way good luck!
 
Sounds like everyone here has given you the right advise. I personally have more painting experience than I do with paint correction. I would definitely work your way yup to 2500 grit or 3000. I bought myself a GG6 and while it is a great tool and seems to be better than you PC I am considering sending mine back to GG because of better deals on better DA buffers. If you have the money buy a very good quality tool like a Rupes or a Flex. A trick that I have learned if you do not have a very high grit sandpaper available is to get some Colgate white toothpaste put a small amount on a folded 8x11 piece of paper and begin to use it like sandpaper. This will be the finest grit you can get. Then follow with a rubbing compound and some polish. No wax for 30+ days!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top