Need help with Polish Angel

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JAirCLS55AMG

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I’ve looked everywhere guys and I can’t find no specific guides to how to follow there products step by step in order.

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]So I did what you guys told me to do. I bought a panel from the junk yard and I’ve been practicing for the last 2 months now.[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]I feel confident enough now to work on my own car.[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]One crucial step I am confused about is: When I finish the polishing do I prep with Gyeon prep or is the Polish Angel primer spritz by itself enough? Or do I apply Gyeon prep then after the Polish Angel primer spritz? I just don’t know
if this polishers need to be wiped out of the paint work
with a degreaser? Or is that the polish angel primer spritz
purpose?[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Steps are going to be as follows.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
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  • [FONT=&quot]Wash and rinse car with Dawn Soap.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=&quot]Spray car all over with Polish Angel ultra red for extra wash prepping. (Spray and rinse application.)[/FONT]
  • [FONT=&quot]Use Gyeon Iron first to decontaminate paint work. Then Clay bar with Gyeon clay lube and Pinnacle Ultra poly clay bar.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=&quot]Rinse car, and dry with leaf blower.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=&quot]Polish with Polish Angel master compound.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=&quot]Polish with Polish Angel master finish.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=&quot]Apply Polish Angel Primer Spritz after polishing done(prep step for Glasscoat Cosmic V2)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Maintenance products are as follows. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
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  • [FONT=&quot]Polish Angel glissante shampoo.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=&quot]Polish Angel carnauba arts Gold Zirkon.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=&quot]Polish Angel glass coat cosmic spritz.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=&quot]Polish Angel high gloss.[/FONT]
 
Skip the Dawn. I wouldn’t bother ever using it on your car. Use glossless, normal car wash.

My understanding of PA Ultra Red is that it removes old waxes, grime, etc. This will do the work of what u wanted Dawn to do, and could be used as a prep by itself if your paint was in perfect shape. This step isn’t totally necessary since you plan to polish which will also remove the crap, but will only help and if you have it and are being thorough, use it.

If your paint has moderate to major swirls, the compound is probably necessary. If it was in good shape, just the polish might suffice.

Iron and clay are good where they are, or could even be done before Ultra Red (but keep it where you have it, best to cleanse the paint first I think).

As far as prep after polishing, just PA Primer Spritz will do the job of removing oils and prepping for Cosmic V2. Using Gyeon Prep is redundant for removing polishing oils... no need but wont hurt if you want to be overly thorough; and make sure you wipe real carefully for these prep spray steps (to avoid scratching). Using a degreaser to get rid of polishing oils isn’t a good prep for coatings in my opinion, since it probably leaves surfactants. Instead, degreaser is redundant to the Ultra Red step in my opinion.

In summary, Primer Spritz should be enough. Then I assume you will apply Cosmic V2.

As for maintenance, Cosmic Spritz is my first recommendation. Next, down the road a bit, add High Gloss as needed. Good Zircon could be used further down the road, and once that’s applied, you’re starting to veer off from the Cosmic behaviors. Nothing wrong with that, and the water behavior and looks will still be amazing, just different for a few mo the. Therefore, I just recommend using Cosmic Spritz for a bit, then High Gloss when you want some more oomph for looks and beading (not so much longevity though), then Gold Zirkon when you want to go from a cold, sharp, glassy look to a warmer, smoother, creamier look.

Glissante is fine, especially once Zircon is applied. There’s also Glasscoat Shampoo but I can’t recommend it as it’s crazy expensive per use.

Enjoy!!! You’ll love them all.
 
acuRAS82 said:
Skip the Dawn. I wouldn’t bother ever using it on your car. Use glossless, normal car wash.

My understanding of PA Ultra Red is that it removes old waxes, grime, etc. This will do the work of what u wanted Dawn to do, and could be used as a prep by itself if your paint was in perfect shape. This step isn’t totally necessary since you plan to polish which will also remove the crap, but will only help and if you have it and are being thorough, use it.

If your paint has moderate to major swirls, the compound is probably necessary. If it was in good shape, just the polish might suffice.

Iron and clay are good where they are, or could even be done before Ultra Red (but keep it where you have it, best to cleanse the paint first I think).

As far as prep after polishing, just PA Primer Spritz will do the job of removing oils and prepping for Cosmic V2. Using Gyeon Prep is redundant for removing polishing oils... no need but wont hurt if you want to be overly thorough; and make sure you wipe real carefully for these prep spray steps (to avoid scratching). Using a degreaser to get rid of polishing oils isn’t a good prep for coatings in my opinion, since it probably leaves surfactants. Instead, degreaser is redundant to the Ultra Red step in my opinion.

In summary, Primer Spritz should be enough. Then I assume you will apply Cosmic V2.

As for maintenance, Cosmic Spritz is my first recommendation. Next, down the road a bit, add High Gloss as needed. Good Zircon could be used further down the road, and once that’s applied, you’re starting to veer off from the Cosmic behaviors. Nothing wrong with that, and the water behavior and looks will still be amazing, just different for a few mo the. Therefore, I just recommend using Cosmic Spritz for a bit, then High Gloss when you want some more oomph for looks and beading (not so much longevity though), then Gold Zirkon when you want to go from a cold, sharp, glassy look to a warmer, smoother, creamier look.

Glissante is fine, especially once Zircon is applied. There’s also Glasscoat Shampoo but I can’t recommend it as it’s crazy expensive per use.

Enjoy!!! You’ll love them all.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for the reply. you have cleared a lot of my misunderstanding towards the products.

I will ditch the dawn soap and wash car with ultra red. Then decontaminate and clay bar.

My paint work is not bad at all. I have minor swirls it’s not heavily damaged with swirls or of the sort.
So maybe I could just get away with using the PA master finish?

So I think it won’t be necessary to use the master compound and just polish with master finish to get rid
Of the minor swirls? Then use PA primer.(I also bought the spray version just in case)

Yes glasscoat v2 will be applied last.
 
JAirCLS55AMG said:
Thank you so much for the reply. you have cleared a lot of my misunderstanding towards the products.

I will ditch the dawn soap and wash car with ultra red. Then decontaminate and clay bar.

My paint work is not bad at all. I have minor swirls it’s not heavily damaged with swirls or of the sort.
So maybe I could just get away with using the PA master finish?

So I think it won’t be necessary to use the master compound and just polish with master finish to get rid
Of the minor swirls? Then use PA primer.(I also bought the spray version just in case)

Yes glasscoat v2 will be applied last.
Click to expand...
Good plan, and a good habit for polishing is to always do test spots first. Try different pads with PA Polish first. That includes light cutting (like Lake Country Orange) if a polishing pad isn’t removing all the light swirls. I’m not sure what type of paint you have (Mercedes I assume), but if it isn’t rock hard, the Polish by itself may very well be sufficient. And if you do your last few passes soft with very little pressure (even with a light cutting pad), it should finish out nice with no hazing, therefore ready for the Primer Spritz.
 
acuRAS82 said:
Good plan, and a good habit for polishing is to always do test spots first. Try different pads with PA Polish first. That includes light cutting (like Lake Country Orange) if a polishing pad isn’t removing all the light swirls. I’m not sure what type of paint you have (Mercedes I assume), but if it isn’t rock hard, the Polish by itself may very well be sufficient. And if you do your last few passes soft with very little pressure (even with a light cutting pad), it should finish out nice with no hazing, therefore ready for the Primer Spritz.
Click to expand...

Yes I have a Mercedes Benz CLS55 AMG.

Ok I will start off with the Polish with LC orange pad and go from there. I have all the color schemes in LC pads.

The PA primer should be applied with a finishing pad correct? Like for example a black LC pad?
 
JAirCLS55AMG said:
Yes I have a Mercedes Benz CLS55 AMG.

Ok I will start off with the Polish with LC orange pad and go from there. I have all the color schemes in LC pads.

The PA primer should be applied with a finishing pad correct? Like for example a black LC pad?
Click to expand...
Start with LC white. Always try least aggressive first and go more aggressive from there. Make sure you have at least 6 pads of whatever you go with and change them out every 1/6th of the car so they don’t get saturated and stop working to their ability.

For Primer, if you’re using Glasscoat Primer Spritz (in the spray bottle), just spray, wipe, then wipe until dry. No polishing needed.

If you’re using Glasscoat Invincible Primer (not the spray), the black finishing pad would be fine.
 
acuRAS82 said:
Start with LC white. Always try least aggressive first and go more aggressive from there. Make sure you have at least 6 pads of whatever you go with and change them out every 1/6th of the car so they don’t get saturated and stop working to their ability.

For Primer, if you’re using Glasscoat Primer Spritz (in the spray bottle), just spray, wipe, then wipe until dry. No polishing needed.

If you’re using Glasscoat Invincible Primer (not the spray), the black finishing pad would be fine.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks so much.
 
I’ll let Custmsprty speak for himself, but his paint was brand new, and Invincible Primer (polish, not spray) can indeed lightly polish brand new or great condition paint.
 
acuRAS82 said:
I’ll let Custmsprty speak for himself, but his paint was brand new, and Invincible Primer (polish, not spray) can indeed lightly polish brand new or great condition paint.
Click to expand...

Even after clay bar?

I am even questioning now if I should even clay bar.(need to clay)
 
JAirCLS55AMG said:
Even after clay bar?

I am even questioning now if I should even clay bar.(need to clay)
Click to expand...

I’m not sure of your exact paint condition... I would still recommend doing a test spot. It’s possible that the Primer alone will leave a finish you’re happy with, even after claybar (not sure if Custmsprty clayed). Claying leaves only light marring behind, it shouldn’t take much to get it out.
 
^^I should have mentioned, a baggie test should determine whether claying is needed.
 
Do you have the C before the paint code number on the cars plate where such of information is on? If so you have ceramic kind of paint which is a step up in hardness of MB paints and they are hard to begin with. Sure you can try to do a test spot with the Invicible Primer Polish. My personal preference if useing a primer polish is to use it as the last step of polishing with a finishing foam pad. So I look at them as a jeweling polish step. You can if you want to do a test spot with a foam polishing pad and see where it gets you. It's diminishing abrasives of very high quality. PA recommend to if you don't get the defects down with the polishing pad and Invicible Primer Polish. You move directly to the PA compound. So Invicible Primer Polish on a polishing pad is effective to remove minor defects and marring.

Since you have a leafblower to dry the car with. I useally start with rinse off any loose dirt and debris off. If you have a foamcannon and PW I will use a prewash foam. And if you have a foam gun you can foam and rinse off. Then I dry with the leafblower and apply the degreaser and in your case the PA Red Degreaser. When it has dwelled enough I do the a wash with it still on the car. This is to get a little more effective cleaning ability from it. Rinse and dry with the leafblower and apply the iron remover. Iron remover and degreasers works way more effective if applyied on a dry paint. Rinse and dry and do the baggie test on the lower side panels and the hood for an example as there is where you often gets the most contaminants build up. If you have a lot of bleeding reaction from the iron remover I would be claying anyways. As if they have been on for a longer time they are not always desolves enough to be rinsed off. With the clay and iron remover it's enough to get them off. Otherwise if I don't are going to clay I do a little test spot after the first application of the iron remover and rinse off. On the place or places where I got the most bleeding reaction from. This is to see if it's been desolved enough to be rinsed off. If it's still bleeds the iron particals is still left in the paint. Either I apply the iron remover again and when it's dwelled enough I take a damp mf towel and aggitate lightly with it as this also does amp up the effectiveness from the iron remover and every chemicals products. Or do the claying anyways as it's useally enough desolved for the clay to pick it up and just not shave off the top of the iron particals if you where not to be useing an iron removerbefore the claying.

Wash again and dry the car and start with the test spot/spots. Since you have the PA compound and polish and if you where to use the Invicible Primer Polish. You should not be needed to be useing the Gyeon Prep. The primer polishes has solvents that's desolves the polishing oils and to be able to evaporate off with the solvents after or during the wipe off with Invicible Primer Polish. If you want to be on the safe side you can be doing a wipe down with the Gyeon Prep between the polish and primer polish. I would not recommend to be doing it after the Invicible Primer Polish the Gyeon Prep as it has those bonding agents to get the Cosmic v2 coating to get to the hardest bonding and cureing on the paint. Actually I don't know how the Invicible Primer Spritz would work to be doing a wipe down with on the Invicible Primer Polish. Not to get more bonding agents on but to use it to desolve any polishing oils left for insurance or to get the little of dust off if you wait some time until the Cosmic v2 application.
 
Dawn is for dishes! Grab a bottle of CarPro Reset for your maintenance washes.
 
tim500 said:
wouldn't the carpro reset strip or degrade the cosmic glass coat?
Click to expand...

Nope…. Reset is PH neutral. Also glass coat is their “coating” so I would think it could stand a little alkaline/acidic action.


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Coatingsarecrack said:
Nope…. Reset is PH neutral. Also glass coat is their “coating” so I would think it could stand a little alkaline/acidic action.


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Click to expand...

From the description “May degrade organic waxes and polymer sealants”. Would that apply to polish angel?
 
tim500 said:
From the description “May degrade organic waxes and polymer sealants”. Would that apply to polish angel?
Click to expand...

Technically it’s their coating which should be stronger than saxes and sealants. I’ve used Reset on Cosmic spritz (sio2 topper for cosmic glass coat) with no I’ll effects.

That’s the one thing I don’t get.

It seams to be just soaps/surfactants and stated to be PH neutral. if that’s the case it shouldn’t degrade any of that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Coatingsarecrack said:
Technically it’s their coating which should be stronger than saxes and sealants. I’ve used Reset on Cosmic spritz (sio2 topper for cosmic glass coat) with no I’ll effects.

That’s the one thing I don’t get.

It seams to be just soaps/surfactants and stated to be PH neutral. if that’s the case it shouldn’t degrade any of that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Would Gyeon Bathe Plus interfere with polish angel?
 
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