Need opinion, machine or not?

e-dawg

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Hi guys. I am getting back into detailing, or thinking of getting back into it from a business perspective. I used to own a mobile service back in the early 90's and did everything by hand, which is probably why I didn't last that long lol.

My car is a 2010 VW GTI that I have meticulously taken care of, well at least in my eyes. With having thoughts about possibly getting back into detailing, I am looking to buying a machine or two. I did my car all by hand and wanted to get some opinions whether you guys think I should put a machine on my finish or not.

Thanks for any input.

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I like the car! Not to say you wont get great results from hand (i think you can get the same as machine) its just that you have to put in a lot more time and effort when doing a car by hand. If you going to be running a business a machine whether its a rotary or DA is essential to getting things done efficiently and fast. Id say to take a look at the current DA's on autogeeks website and then go from there.
 
Thanks appreciate that. Right, it would be a matter of saving time since time is money. So putting a machine on already good and well taken care of paint won't hurt it, but essentially enhance it?
 
Thanks appreciate that. Right, it would be a matter of saving time since time is money. So putting a machine on already good and well taken care of paint won't hurt it, but essentially enhance it?

Not at all! Well it depends on what products and pads your using but generally speaking its the person using the machine who can harm the paint not the machine itself lol. Just read as much as you can before you re open for business since much has changed since the 90's as far as paint systems and the products used to maintain them.
 
That's a very nice job by hand, but you need a machine today if you are going to do this professionally. Things have changed since the early 90's. You have a lot of choices, but if I were you I would go with a MF system. Will you be working by yourself? What kind of budget do you have?
 
Not at all! Well it depends on what products and pads your using but generally speaking its the person using the machine who can harm the paint not the machine itself lol. Just read as much as you can before you re open for business since much has changed since the 90's as far as paint systems and the products used to maintain them.

That's the problem lol. There is so much info here I'm trying to digest and it's frying my brain. Going back to the DA's, just when I think I have it drilled down to which one I want, I read another thread saying how great the other one is.

I think I'm leaning away from the PCXP though, I believe it has less vibration than previous revision from what I've read though, so I might be leaning towards the GG6 or Megs g110 v2.
 
That's the problem lol. There is so much info here I'm trying to digest and it's frying my brain. Going back to the DA's, just when I think I have it drilled down to which one I want, I read another thread saying how great the other one is.

I think I'm leaning away from the PCXP though, I believe it has less vibration than previous revision from what I've read though, so I might be leaning towards the GG6 or Megs g110 v2.

I know what you mean, it really is a lot of info when you first start reading all of it. I personally have the 7424xp and dont have any experience with the other DA's so im not much help there. What are you trying to accomplish with all your details? What i mean is are you detailing just as a hobby, enthusiast, fully mobile, foxed location?
 
That's a very nice job by hand, but you need a machine today if you are going to do this professionally. Things have changed since the early 90's. You have a lot of choices, but if I were you I would go with a MF system. Will you be working by yourself? What kind of budget do you have?

Thank you. Yes I will be working by myself and in my garage to be exact. I much prefer to work in a controlled environment, and I'll also have all of my supplies in order. I am very clean, organized and meticulous in my processes. Yes, I am aware that there are some potential customers that are wary of someone working out of their garage, but that is my choice at the moment.

My budget is very good, I have quite a bit of money to get what I need. I also have time, my job only requires I be there about three days a week, so I don't really have to worry too much about being really slow starting out, which it will be I know that.

I also thought about attending on of the detailing schools, but they are very very pricey. I was thinking one day that I can use that money to buy equipment and supplies. Steamer, water extractor, a DA or two...etc
 
Spend a lot of time here on the forums, you don't need to go to a class (although it will get you up and going faster). All the DA's are good, I think I might start out with the GG 6" or the G110, then get a Flex 3401 as a second machine later on. I love the MF systems, but if you are going to be doing high end work in your garage, you could do foam, as well.

I originally thought you might be doing mobile high volume, and for that the Meg's MF system is so easy and does a great job as a two step.
 
I know what you mean, it really is a lot of info when you first start reading all of it. I personally have the 7424xp and dont have any experience with the other DA's so im not much help there. What are you trying to accomplish with all your details? What i mean is are you detailing just as a hobby, enthusiast, fully mobile, foxed location?

Fixed location with possibly having customers as an end result.
 
Yes detailing school is expensive but IMO worth it if your into detailing for the long run. Dont worry about detailing out of your garage, many times its not worth it to rent a space dedicated to detailing unless you run a full time business from it. Instead of confusing you with many different polishes, compounds and other products from many different companies i recommend that you do as much reading as possible about all the vendors AG has and then decide from there what you feel comfortable using. Try as many products as you can afford and have time for and make yourself a system with those products.
 
Spend a lot of time here on the forums, you don't need to go to a class (although it will get you up and going faster). All the DA's are good, I think I might start out with the GG 6" or the G110, then get a Flex 3401 as a second machine later on. I love the MF systems, but if you are going to be doing high end work in your garage, you could do foam, as well.

I originally thought you might be doing mobile high volume, and for that the Meg's MF system is so easy and does a great job as a two step.

Yes I've been on these forums day and night trying to get a leg up on all the new technology and products available. Gone are the days when it was just Megs and Mothers lol. I prefer Chemical Guys though for me personally speaking.

It is even mid boggling with all of the different pads available. All claiming to be the right product for the job.
 
I originally thought you might be doing mobile high volume, and for that the Meg's MF system is so easy and does a great job as a two step.

So we all have to start someplace eh? Looks like production detailing will be the critical starting point. I'm just more of a person who wants to work on one automobile at a time, striving for perfection and high quality as opposed to high volume and express details for the masses. But that's where the bread and butter is at?

The thought of cleaning peanut butter and other assorted grunge out of the back of a mini-van makes me cringe lol. I was hoping to start out with cars whose owners were a bit more savvy about what it meant to take care of their car.
 
Peanut butter is the least of your worries lol.

You just have to market yourself to the client you want. Will there be big bucks in highend details? probably not.
 
Well E-Dog all I can say is this, when it comes to getting swirlmarks out, the wheel is the ONLY way to go to get the job done right. IMO some marks are just not going to ever come out by hand, no matter how long you stand there, you'll look like Popeye when your done and its only going to look slightly better but with one pass with the wheel and right polish, BAM!, your done and it looks great.

Good luck to your future business ventures:dblthumb2:
 
Well E-Dog all I can say is this, when it comes to getting swirlmarks out, the wheel is the ONLY way to go to get the job done right. IMO some marks are just not going to ever come out by hand, no matter how long you stand there, you'll look like Popeye when your done and its only going to look slightly better but with one pass with the wheel and right polish, BAM!, your done and it looks great.

Good luck to your future business ventures:dblthumb2:

That's what I'm hoping the second time around! I believe in the polisher this time, all the way man. I just wish there were more vids on the g110 v2 available so I can make a more educated purchase.
 
If you have the money I'd suggest jumping right into a Club Flex kit and sidestep the traditional DAs. You'll get more done and if you're serious about doing this professionally you'll want to get proficient with a rotary too.
Club FLEX Intro Kit, Flex polishers
 
If you have the money I'd suggest jumping right into a Club Flex kit and sidestep the traditional DAs. You'll get more done and if you're serious about doing this professionally you'll want to get proficient with a rotary too.
Club FLEX Intro Kit, Flex polishers

I agree with you on that, just worried about strike through. I have good manual dexterity though, and Ive just got to keep the pad moving and flat as much as possible. Man this is great, keep the advice coming I'm likea big sponge.
 
Steve over at Poorboy's World worked with me through my initial fears of rotary polishing. He would say just go slow and you'll do just fine. One time at one of his detailing events he showed us all how tough it is to cut through a flat panel with a rotary, wool pad and SSR3. It took a lot longer than I thought but he (Well actually Pockets) had that thing literally smoking by the time it cut through the clear. On a sharp edge though....you lose focus for just one second and you can cut through all the clear, base coat and primer in one shot. Tape edges, keep the RPMs at 1000 or less until you get the hang of how it's working then bump the speed up as you gain confidence. As you said it's critical to keep it moving over the paint too.
 
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