Need some advice on my first detail!

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Velosityworks

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I bought this

Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher
5 inch Flexible Backing Plate
16 oz. Poorboy’s Light Abrasive Swirl Remover SR1
16 oz. Poorboy’s Medium Super Swirl Remover SSR2.5
8 oz. Poorboy’s Natty’s Blue Paste Wax
16 oz. Poorboy’s Spray & Gloss
16 oz. Poorboy’s Spray & Wipe Waterless Wash
CCS 6.5 inch Gray Dual Action Finishing Pad
CCS 6.5 inch Orange Dual Action Light Cutting Pad
CCS 6.5 inch White Dual Action Polishing Pad
CSS 5.5 inch Orange Dual Action Light Cutting Pad X2
2 Cobra Microfiber Towels, 16 x 16 inches
12 oz. Pinnacle XMT Polishing Pad Cleaner

Just received it today!

I also bought this 3 weeks ago:

Mothers Natural Formula Pure Carnauba Wax Li
Mothers Reflections Advanced Spray Wax
Mothers California Gold Sealer & Glaze
2X XMT 360 Corrects, Cleans, Seals
2X Supreme 530 Microfiber Towels
2X Cobra Shamrock 750 Microfiber Towe
Mothers California Gold Pre-Wax Cleaner
Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay Special
Meguiars SCRATCH X
Meguiars Water Magnet
Mothers Wheel Mist All Wheel Cleaner

What will i need to make my car's paint be defect free and swirls and light scratches away? Is the poorboy's kit enough to do that? I want to take off swirls, scratches, and blemishes. Also, would like to make my car's paint look super shiny and reflective.

I tried using the porter cable with a 5.5 Orange pad and Poorboy's SSR2.5 and used it until it started flaking, i buffed it with a microfiber towel and still same results?? (I was using 6 as speed and it started flaking under 15 secs)

Can someone please point me to the right direction please. Little details would be nice.

By the way, car's info is:

Black Chevy Impala 2004
 
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What do you mean by flaking?

Since your a first time user. Take a sharpie and put a mark on the back of your pad. Now apply enough pressure to stop the pad from moving and just back off a little to where the pad starts to rotate again. This is the amount of pressure you want to apply usually if you are trying to do correction work like swirl removal. As the polish is breaking down reduce pressure to burnish the paint.

Pad priming and product amount is also key. Too much product and the pad gums up, too little and there wont be much cut with a high chance of dry buffing. When starting with a fresh pad I like to make an "X" with the product. This is the only time you will need to use this much as this would prime the pad enough with product. Work the polish and over lap each pass by 50%. Work until the product is broken down or translucent. Wipe and check your progress. Since the pad is now primed when starting on a new section you would only need to use 2 - 3 dime size drops of polish.

I have no personal experience with PB's polishes but from reading reviews about them they are more then capible of accomplishing what you need.
Menzerna IP/FP vs. Poorboys SSR2.5/SSR1 (pics included) - Autopia.org


Here I also found this link for you to show you the stages SSR2.5 breaks down.
Polish Break Down Stages - Poorboys SSR2.5

Hopes this helps you!!
 
Sorry for the double post.

So i went with my pc and used a Orange Pad and SSR 2.5 and i removed the scratches and webbings but these round dots stayed. Is there any possibility on taking these off with my pc? If i need different products, just tell me.

Here are the before pic of my half trunk.

Before
IMG_0180.jpg


After
IMG_0181.jpg


But this are in the paint and i want them out. I think they are in the clear coat because they aren't deep at all. You can barely feel them and some of them you don't feel them at all.


IMG_0184.jpg


IMG_0183.jpg
 
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Not sure if claying will help this problem ... but as a "veteran" now (tongueincheek) of 2 successful PC detailing sessions- I can tell you that I clay WITHIN THE HOUR of any step 1 swirl/scratch removal process! Not sure a day, week, month delay after claying is reccomended (unless the car is kept in garage under wraps?) Paint will start getting contaminated again the first time you take it out, yes?
 
It looks alot like peppering from sand and small rocks. But then again it also looks alot like over spray too.
 
Lasthope05 said:
What do you mean by flaking?

Since your a first time user. Take a sharpie and put a mark on the back of your pad. Now apply enough pressure to stop the pad from moving and just back off a little to where the pad starts to rotate again. This is the amount of pressure you want to apply usually if you are trying to do correction work like swirl removal. As the polish is breaking down reduce pressure to burnish the paint.

Pad priming and product amount is also key. Too much product and the pad gums up, too little and there wont be much cut with a high chance of dry buffing. When starting with a fresh pad I like to make an "X" with the product. This is the only time you will need to use this much as this would prime the pad enough with product. Work the polish and over lap each pass by 50%. Work until the product is broken down or translucent. Wipe and check your progress. Since the pad is now primed when starting on a new section you would only need to use 2 - 3 dime size drops of polish.

I have no personal experience with PB's polishes but from reading reviews about them they are more then capible of accomplishing what you need.
Menzerna IP/FP vs. Poorboys SSR2.5/SSR1 (pics included) - Autopia.org


Here I also found this link for you to show you the stages SSR2.5 breaks down.
Polish Break Down Stages - Poorboys SSR2.5

Hopes this helps you!!
Click to expand...
That was some prefect advise :whs:
 
Its more of sand and peppering i guess? Can i fix that??


By the way, thanks for the info lasthope.


I just want to know if its possible to actually take them out and make my paint defect free. Would sanding the paint fix the problem? Or maybe a stronger compound??

Some of them are like micro cross like if the clear coat is cracking but you can barely see it. Maybe by sanding it?
 
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When you talk about "sanding", I'm assuming you're talking about wet sanding?

Stay away from wet sanding a factory clear coat unless you really have to + I wouldn't recommend wet sanding unless you have a rotary as the PC won't be able to remove the wet sanding marks.

You could try a compound on just those spots, although I'm not sure if it would help. I think maybe touch-up paint would be in order to try and "hide" those spots.

In the youtube playlist link attached, Mike from Meguiar's explains how to use a rotary and also explains a bit about wetsanding and removing wetsanding marks. Hopefully that'll explain why sanding the paint to remove the marks could be quite dangerous.
Rotary & Wetsanding Youtube Playlist

:cheers:
 
Actually i bought 1000 sandpaper and i used it and left marks but i took them off with 3m compound. The things didn't come out. They are like small nicks from rocks.. but it doesn't make sense for them to be on the top of the trunk's door. They are not deep and you can't feel them. Just visible.
 
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