Need Some Advice on Oxidation Returning after a week.

Hope everything works somewhat profitable for you.let us know the outcome and don't beat yourself over it.
 
Well it went better than I thought with the client after I explained it is clear coat failure and not my polishing. I also called in favor with a good friend that owns a body shop to respray the tub. Client is happy and all it's costing me is a case of beer. :)
 
Very nice outcome! Glad it worked in your favor!
 
Coppertop80 said:
Okay I really wish I took before pictures so everyone could see what this truck looked like and why I took the job in the first place (this was no work truck).

Yes it's 14 year old original paint (was only compounded and polished), M105 was used due to the fact the Clear was on the hard side and M105 yielded the best results on my test spot.

The Wheel tub was damp sanded due to heavy orange peel from a crappy respray so I leveled it down not just to remove what I thought was oxidation and I should have used a PG but I didn't go through the clear.

It's an expensive lesson learned
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Glad it worked out for both of you in the end. The warning signs were re-spray, different orange peel and chalky surface. All point to liability release. I never never do corrections without measuring the paint. If I detect a re-spray by inspecting or asking the customer I always provide a disclaimer. Factory corrections are more predictable.

Earlier in the thread there were comments about clear being too thin to hold a shine and even turning cloudy. I had a LS400 I basically drove to death with 260K miles (great though reliable car btw) but it's age and sun damage worn out the clear and I noticed thin spots turning cloudy. Nothing but a re-spray would fix it. When it died it made a good platform to experiment with and I learned a lot about working on old factory paints.
 
Most important part of doing business (despite what most seem to think) is being honest. When you can trust someone it's easier to deal with them. Good for you.
 
Well I guess my client still likes my work, he just referred me to a friend that wants his GTR polished :)
 
Coppertop80 said:
Well I guess my client still likes my work, he just referred me to a friend that wants his GTR polished :)
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That's really good, that means he knows that it was not your fault that the paint couldn't polish out.

Glad to hear it pal, don't let bad experiences get you done they are apart of every business you have to take the good with the bad.
 
Thanks Joe but now I'm a little nervous over this GTR. After a little searching, The GTR's have sensitive clear coat and of coarse this 1 has to be black as well (breath on it and the paint will marr...lol).
 
Coppertop80 said:
Thanks Joe but now I'm a little nervous over this GTR. After a little searching, The GTR's have sensitive clear coat and of coarse this 1 has to be black as well (breath on it and the paint will marr...lol).
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I have worked on 4 GT-R's never a black one, and they are on the softer side however not too bad, I used menzerna 400 on a foam pad and was getting excellent results in the first buffing cycle.

Year might be a factor , try menzerna 1500 if you have it first.


And remember if you have to do 2 buffing cycles for one section with a less agressive polish, when the same results can be achieved in one buffing cycle, i would rather do it in one buffing cycle. So dont be afraid to use 400 it will finish nice.

But then again I never did a black gtr good look let us know how it comes out.
 
Honestly never tried any Menzerna products. I mostly use Meguiars and now HD products due to their price and great finishing abilities.

I was thinking of testing out HD Adapt with and the Rupes Yellow pad on the GTR. That combo worked great on my Nighthawk Black Acura TL which also has super soft paint.
 
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