Need some advice on removing paint oxidation on black painted Honda

[spinz]

Hi Geeks,

Just thought i'd consult you all before i try to remove the oxidation on a Honda Civic.

This is my plan:-
1. Wash the car. (ONR)
2. Clay. (Either Pinnacles or Opti-Eraser)
3. Compound with a DA. (Opti Hyper Compound Spray + orange CCS pad)
4. Compound with more aggressive combination if step 3 doesn't work (M105 + yellow CCS pad)
5. IPA wipe.
6. Polish with a DA. (Optimum Hyper Polish Spray/M205 + white CCS pad)
7. IPA wipe.
8. Seal the paint. (Wolfgang DGPS/Opticoat 2.0)

Please comment on the steps above, and advise any to-do or not-to-do.

Here are few pics I snapped. (Please let me know if you can't see the pic)

Thank you.

 

[wdmaccord]

If there aren't a lot of scratches or swirls, I would start with the polish on the white pad. Next move to polish on an orange pad. If that doesn't do it then move up to the compound on a white pad, then the orange pad if needed. Do a taped off test spot so you can compare before and after. If you aren't satisfied after the first combo, move to the next combo on the test spot and keep upping your aggressiveness until you are satisfied with the result of the after vs. the before. Honda's have soft paint, so it may not take a strong cut to just remove oxidation. After you remove the oxidation, you might find other defects and ultimately decide you need to compound the whole car, which is fine, but tackle it one step at a time so you don't remove more clear than you have to.

 

[spinz]

If there aren't a lot of scratches or swirls, I would start with the polish on the white pad. Next move to polish on an orange pad. If that doesn't do it then move up to the compound on a white pad, then the orange pad if needed. Do a taped off test spot so you can compare before and after. If you aren't satisfied after the first combo, move to the next combo on the test spot and keep upping your aggressiveness until you are satisfied with the result of the after vs. the before. Honda's have soft paint, so it may not take a strong cut to just remove oxidation. After you remove the oxidation, you might find other defects and ultimately decide you need to compound the whole car, which is fine, but tackle it one step at a time so you don't remove more clear than you have to.

Got it, i will be careful on the soft paint.
Another pic which shows there are swirls all over this car.

 

[Dr_Pain]

Here is a basic question, but how did you determine that it was indeed a "soft paint"? ALSO, do you have an idea if you are dealing with a single stage or BC/CC. The level of oxidation or haze you seem to have on the fenders seem to point towards single stage (and the fact that I don't see a metal flake in the paint)

I am not going to comment on your selection of pads and products because those may change based on the paint and more specifically the test spot. Personally I am more of a Menzerna guy and can tell you that I have had a few black cars that received the Meg MF cutting pad FG400 combo treatment (after test spot), so black does not always mean soft

 

[spinz]

Here is a basic question, but how did you determine that it was indeed a "soft paint"? ALSO, do you have an idea if you are dealing with a single stage or BC/CC. The level of oxidation or haze you seem to have on the fenders seem to point towards single stage (and the fact that I don't see a metal flake in the paint)

I am not going to comment on your selection of pads and products because those may change based on the paint and more specifically the test spot. Personally I am more of a Menzerna guy and can tell you that I have had a few black cars that received the Meg MF cutting pad FG400 combo treatment (after test spot), so black does not always mean soft

Hi Dr_Pain
I wasn't referring to the black paint, i didn't mean it is soft just because it is black.
Just that people tend to say Honda paint are soft.
You are right, we will never know until we do a test spot.

:xyxthumbs:

 

[Vegas Transplant]

Did this turn around winter 12-13.
Photo after OCWC 2BM.
Leaf blower dried.
845 LSP.

To knock out the swirls use GPS instead of Optimum Poli-Seal.

 

[wdmaccord]

Here is a basic question, but how did you determine that it was indeed a "soft paint"? ALSO, do you have an idea if you are dealing with a single stage or BC/CC. The level of oxidation or haze you seem to have on the fenders seem to point towards single stage (and the fact that I don't see a metal flake in the paint)

I am not going to comment on your selection of pads and products because those may change based on the paint and more specifically the test spot. Personally I am more of a Menzerna guy and can tell you that I have had a few black cars that received the Meg MF cutting pad FG400 combo treatment (after test spot), so black does not always mean soft

that's my bad. I probably should have said Honda's "typically" have soft paint. I have black 03, 08, and 13 and all are the same relative level of softness. However, my fault for ASSUMING that OP's paint would be soft.

It indeed could be single stage. Pretty easy to tell once you do your test spot. If you get black on the pad, then it is single stage. If it is clear coated, you will only see your polish color on the pad.

 

[spinz]

Finally the car owner managed to find the time to send his car to me.

Here is how it looks after the oxidation removed:

More pictures and details of this project can be found here:
2008 Black Honda Civic - Oxidation Removal

Thanks geeks! :xyxthumbs: