Need some advice RV detailing
- Thread starter Red Fire
- Start date
You can think of M-67 as being a 'mid-cut' compound. Two thing nice about 67 is that it finishes down pretty nice and it does have a good amount of 'oils' that help to enhance the shine.
There is another compound of Meguiars above 67, that is Power-Cut Compound (M-91). It doesn't play too well with a DA and will require using M-67 to remove the micro-scratches from the 91.
Once you finish up with the 67, take a look at using Color Restorer (M-44) as maintenance product.
Bill
- Thread starter
- #23
I had another question about the RV's roof what have you found that works the best meaning products to wash and seal it with? All in one product or a wash and then seal product? Give names please. Mine is a rubber roof. It's in really nice shape and I'd like to keep it that way.
What about cleaning the top of the old dicor before you put new over it. Do you think using rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits would be better? Or is there a better /safer way to clean them first?
What about cleaning the top of the old dicor before you put new over it. Do you think using rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits would be better? Or is there a better /safer way to clean them first?
Dicor & other rubber roof mfg.'s say to only clean it. Any type of dressing is discouraged. They seem to hold dirt in them from my experience.
You can clean then them with almost any good degreaser like purple power, simple green, etc. I've found these to work much better than the "rubber roof cleaners" at RV stores. Do not use acid based cleaners. Read the MSDS sheet of any cleaner & as long as the PH is 7 or above you should be OK. I use an oxygen bleach (not chlorine bleach) powder like Oxyclean to boost the degreaser. This helps to remove some oxidation & brighten the color of the roof. ( mineral spirits should be used sparingly only as a spot stain remover)
When cleaning the roof always do this first because it will make a mess on the sides of your RV from the dirt & oxidation. Then wash the rest of your RV.
You can clean then them with almost any good degreaser like purple power, simple green, etc. I've found these to work much better than the "rubber roof cleaners" at RV stores. Do not use acid based cleaners. Read the MSDS sheet of any cleaner & as long as the PH is 7 or above you should be OK. I use an oxygen bleach (not chlorine bleach) powder like Oxyclean to boost the degreaser. This helps to remove some oxidation & brighten the color of the roof. ( mineral spirits should be used sparingly only as a spot stain remover)
When cleaning the roof always do this first because it will make a mess on the sides of your RV from the dirt & oxidation. Then wash the rest of your RV.
- Thread starter
- #25
Hi dsigmon, I meant using rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits to clean the top of the old dicor around the sky lights, vents, roof fan, etc. for a touch up of new dicor (self leveling) on top of the old, when the old gets the little cracks in it.
I watched some videos on it and they were using mineral spirits to clean the top before adding new dicor on top of the old.
As for cleaning the rubber roof Iv'e always just washed it with the same car wash soap I use on the rest of the RV. I wash the roof every time I was the RV. Roof first then the RV sides.
I used Camco Rubber Roof Cleaner from Walmart last weekend as I thought maybe I should be using something other than car soap to clean/seal it.
41/2yrs ago when we first bought they RV, I paid to have it detailed as it was a mess. It had not been washed for awhile just sitting there.
Those guys used a product called Island Girl. They didn't even buff it just washed it, then wiped it down with this product. The results were, pretty impressive. You could see the oxidation come off onto the towels. The sides were very shiny and clean. They used something on the roof to clean off all the old oxidation then sealed it with something else and it was also very shiny.
Like I said that was 41/2 years ago and for the first 2yrs or so it looked as if it had just been buffed every time I washed it.
I just want to make sure I'm doing everything I can to keep it looking as good as it can.
I also want to make sure I'm sealing the roof the best way.
Thanks for all your feed back.
I watched some videos on it and they were using mineral spirits to clean the top before adding new dicor on top of the old.
As for cleaning the rubber roof Iv'e always just washed it with the same car wash soap I use on the rest of the RV. I wash the roof every time I was the RV. Roof first then the RV sides.
I used Camco Rubber Roof Cleaner from Walmart last weekend as I thought maybe I should be using something other than car soap to clean/seal it.
41/2yrs ago when we first bought they RV, I paid to have it detailed as it was a mess. It had not been washed for awhile just sitting there.
Those guys used a product called Island Girl. They didn't even buff it just washed it, then wiped it down with this product. The results were, pretty impressive. You could see the oxidation come off onto the towels. The sides were very shiny and clean. They used something on the roof to clean off all the old oxidation then sealed it with something else and it was also very shiny.
Like I said that was 41/2 years ago and for the first 2yrs or so it looked as if it had just been buffed every time I washed it.
I just want to make sure I'm doing everything I can to keep it looking as good as it can.
I also want to make sure I'm sealing the roof the best way.
Thanks for all your feed back.
Sorry I thought you were talking about cleaning the entire roof with mineral spirits.
I've done just as you described when resealing around seems & vents.
I'm going to put some EternaBond tape on all my roof seams this fall. Just waiting for it to cool down a bit before spending the whole day up there.
I've done just as you described when resealing around seems & vents.
I'm going to put some EternaBond tape on all my roof seams this fall. Just waiting for it to cool down a bit before spending the whole day up there.
- Thread starter
- #27
Iv'e been reading great reviews on that stuff.
- Thread starter
- #28
Ok, I used 303 on the graphics tonight.
First the 303 vinyl cleaner, then the 303. It did make them a little nicer,you can see it more in the burgundy than the dark green. Not what I had hoped for. But I know its a great protectant.
Maybe I should use the roof product that caused the streaks in the first place and then clean the with soap and water or the 303 vinyl cleaner then put the 303 on them? Thoughts?
Second I noticed where I had rubbed the 303 on the graphics and it got on the side of the RV, I had already Polished this weekend with 503 it made it more shiny. Maybe I'll rub the whole Rv with 303 (Just Kidding).
So I think I may have a little oxidation still on the RV or is this just the 303? Maybe I need to get some M#67 and see if that makes a difference. I know when I hit it again with the 503 in the spring it will be all gone, but I would like to get it all off the first time not multiple processes.
Could I mix the M#67 and the 503 to cut out a step? Maybe I should be adding the DG 601 to my DG 503 to get this glossy result?
Don't mean to sound lazy but it is a 35' RV.
Ok I'm adding some more pics, first is the graphics.
Second I have this spot by the back window, it's very shiny/glossy
You can really tell in the last photo. I have NOT polished the spot. You can see the lower part is oxidized still. I think it maybe left over from the Island Girl product 4 1/2yrs ago. It's very smooth like clear coat on a car.
No big deal I was just curious what you thought.
First the 303 vinyl cleaner, then the 303. It did make them a little nicer,you can see it more in the burgundy than the dark green. Not what I had hoped for. But I know its a great protectant.
Maybe I should use the roof product that caused the streaks in the first place and then clean the with soap and water or the 303 vinyl cleaner then put the 303 on them? Thoughts?
Second I noticed where I had rubbed the 303 on the graphics and it got on the side of the RV, I had already Polished this weekend with 503 it made it more shiny. Maybe I'll rub the whole Rv with 303 (Just Kidding).
So I think I may have a little oxidation still on the RV or is this just the 303? Maybe I need to get some M#67 and see if that makes a difference. I know when I hit it again with the 503 in the spring it will be all gone, but I would like to get it all off the first time not multiple processes.
Could I mix the M#67 and the 503 to cut out a step? Maybe I should be adding the DG 601 to my DG 503 to get this glossy result?
Don't mean to sound lazy but it is a 35' RV.
Ok I'm adding some more pics, first is the graphics.
Second I have this spot by the back window, it's very shiny/glossy
You can really tell in the last photo. I have NOT polished the spot. You can see the lower part is oxidized still. I think it maybe left over from the Island Girl product 4 1/2yrs ago. It's very smooth like clear coat on a car.
No big deal I was just curious what you thought.
"Don't mean to sound lazy but it is a 35' RV."
Believe me I completely understand. I have a 34' 5ver & it completely wears me out over several days. I'm in for anything that is quicker & easier that works & lasts.
Those graphics look pretty good. One looks a little faded on the end. That can come from the sun, or waxes & polishes can actually dull the color. All vinyl decals loose some color over time, depending on how they have been cared for.
303 is not a real shiny product. If you want a lot of shine on the decals you might could try a high shine tire dressing on top of the 303.
As for the not as shiny spot on the Filon, some areas get oxidized faster than others = more sun exposure, roof water run off, etc. You may want to try going over those areas again & try a more aggressive pad. Or you may need to use a heavy cut compound to bring the shine back up just on those areas. You can do those areas by hand. After the compound you may need to use the 503 there again.
I own a commercial janitorial business & a commercial floor care business for over 24 years. I occasionally mix some chemicals from different mfg.'s together. However I've found in general that mixing chems is not a good idea. If they are on opposite sides of the PH scale they just neutralize each other & accomplish nothing.
I've not tried the 503 with the 601 combination myself. I've read several posts here on the forum from those that say it works really well. One person got the recommendation straight from durogloss. So I would try that first. I'm going to try it in a few weeks on mine.
Let know if you try the 503 & 601 combo. I'm curios to see if it makes a difference.
Believe me I completely understand. I have a 34' 5ver & it completely wears me out over several days. I'm in for anything that is quicker & easier that works & lasts.
Those graphics look pretty good. One looks a little faded on the end. That can come from the sun, or waxes & polishes can actually dull the color. All vinyl decals loose some color over time, depending on how they have been cared for.
303 is not a real shiny product. If you want a lot of shine on the decals you might could try a high shine tire dressing on top of the 303.
As for the not as shiny spot on the Filon, some areas get oxidized faster than others = more sun exposure, roof water run off, etc. You may want to try going over those areas again & try a more aggressive pad. Or you may need to use a heavy cut compound to bring the shine back up just on those areas. You can do those areas by hand. After the compound you may need to use the 503 there again.
I own a commercial janitorial business & a commercial floor care business for over 24 years. I occasionally mix some chemicals from different mfg.'s together. However I've found in general that mixing chems is not a good idea. If they are on opposite sides of the PH scale they just neutralize each other & accomplish nothing.
I've not tried the 503 with the 601 combination myself. I've read several posts here on the forum from those that say it works really well. One person got the recommendation straight from durogloss. So I would try that first. I'm going to try it in a few weeks on mine.
Let know if you try the 503 & 601 combo. I'm curios to see if it makes a difference.
- Thread starter
- #30
"Those graphics look pretty good. One looks a little faded on the end."
They all look about the same. The one on the end was just a shadow or something.
The burgundy one, I only did half the picture on the right so you could see the difference.
What do you think about that patch (square) next to the rear window, keep in mind I haven't done any of that area.
They all look about the same. The one on the end was just a shadow or something.
The burgundy one, I only did half the picture on the right so you could see the difference.
What do you think about that patch (square) next to the rear window, keep in mind I haven't done any of that area.
"What do you think about that patch (square) next to the rear window, keep in mind I haven't done any of that area."
I'm no paint expert but it looks like a coating failure. I see this same appearance in waxed (coated) floors.
You said when you bought the RV they applied Island Girl to the Filon. Here's a link to it: Island Girl System - Cleaning and Restoration Products for your car, RV, Boat, Aircraft, shoes & more.
It appears that it is some type of cleaner/coating. My guess is that it has slowly broken down over time & for some reason this particular area got less sun or exposure to the elements & so is still intact.
You may have to use a strong wash or cleaner designed to remove wax to get it off it in order to have an even appearance overall on that area. Maybe some of the other guys here can offer some suggestions on what works good because I don't have any experience there. The mfg of Island girl could probably recommend a good remover if you called them.
How long did that Island Girl last?
I'm no paint expert but it looks like a coating failure. I see this same appearance in waxed (coated) floors.
You said when you bought the RV they applied Island Girl to the Filon. Here's a link to it: Island Girl System - Cleaning and Restoration Products for your car, RV, Boat, Aircraft, shoes & more.
It appears that it is some type of cleaner/coating. My guess is that it has slowly broken down over time & for some reason this particular area got less sun or exposure to the elements & so is still intact.
You may have to use a strong wash or cleaner designed to remove wax to get it off it in order to have an even appearance overall on that area. Maybe some of the other guys here can offer some suggestions on what works good because I don't have any experience there. The mfg of Island girl could probably recommend a good remover if you called them.
How long did that Island Girl last?
- Thread starter
- #33
I'm no paint expert but it looks like a coating failure.
No, It looks as if the sealant they put on is still there.
I looked at the IG website (thanks for the link) I think its the hard shell sealant they used. The products did a very nice job. Lasted about 2 years with regular washings.
I watched and asked a bunch of question at first, the helper was very forthcoming with information, then the boss figured out I was taking mental notes (hehe) and shut that down.
Those guys did a great job but they also had used the product for a long time and knew what to mix together.
I have a bottle of PINK so I did a couple of areas to see what would happen. Nothing really, I think they may have used the Elixir with the pink to remove the oxidation. Elixir is like $87 ouch.
I thought I would try some stuff today as I wasn't happy with the results from Monday.
First I called DG, they said to use DG 671 SMR (Swirl Mark Remover) as it would clean the oxidation better.
Second I called AG and asked them a couple of things.
Third I tried a couple of different things. I repolished some of the area I was unhappy with, with the orange pad and 503. Ok results, not what I was hoping for. So I used my yellow pad and 503 better. Followed by orange pad and 503.
I have come to the conclusion that my oxidation is more medium to heavy in places so I am going to get some Meguiars one step cleaning compound #67 I believe. A couple of the other guys recommended it earlier. If I can get some DG 671 I will and do a comparison. Then the 503 to finish it off.
I did ask about adding 601 to the 503 and DG said it would make the 503 bond better and create a deeper gloss. But I need to get my RV oxidation off first.
DG also told me I could use the aqua wax to get a better shine. I did this in a place I was happy with and didn't really see any difference. So I'll save it for my vehicles in between washes.
Hope this helps you. Maybe you won't have so much trial and error when you start yours.
No, It looks as if the sealant they put on is still there.
I looked at the IG website (thanks for the link) I think its the hard shell sealant they used. The products did a very nice job. Lasted about 2 years with regular washings.
I watched and asked a bunch of question at first, the helper was very forthcoming with information, then the boss figured out I was taking mental notes (hehe) and shut that down.
Those guys did a great job but they also had used the product for a long time and knew what to mix together.
I have a bottle of PINK so I did a couple of areas to see what would happen. Nothing really, I think they may have used the Elixir with the pink to remove the oxidation. Elixir is like $87 ouch.
I thought I would try some stuff today as I wasn't happy with the results from Monday.
First I called DG, they said to use DG 671 SMR (Swirl Mark Remover) as it would clean the oxidation better.
Second I called AG and asked them a couple of things.
Third I tried a couple of different things. I repolished some of the area I was unhappy with, with the orange pad and 503. Ok results, not what I was hoping for. So I used my yellow pad and 503 better. Followed by orange pad and 503.
I have come to the conclusion that my oxidation is more medium to heavy in places so I am going to get some Meguiars one step cleaning compound #67 I believe. A couple of the other guys recommended it earlier. If I can get some DG 671 I will and do a comparison. Then the 503 to finish it off.
I did ask about adding 601 to the 503 and DG said it would make the 503 bond better and create a deeper gloss. But I need to get my RV oxidation off first.
DG also told me I could use the aqua wax to get a better shine. I did this in a place I was happy with and didn't really see any difference. So I'll save it for my vehicles in between washes.
Hope this helps you. Maybe you won't have so much trial and error when you start yours.
- Thread starter
- #34
I spent 2 hours calling 8 stores to see if anyone had either M#67 or the DG671. Everyone said no except one store said they had M#67 drove over and "OH Sorry, Thats Not What You Wanted." Duh people I was very clear M#67, I mean come on it's not brain surgery.
So I came home mad and decided I'de work with what I have.
Did the middle again, Used the yellow pad all over with 503 then went back with orange and 503. It came out much nicer.:xyxthumbs:
The 1&2 pictures if you look at the upper vents bottom right corner you can see the line. I had already done this side with the orange pad & 503. Then I did that spot between the vent and window with the yellow pad & 503.
The last 3 pictures are after I redid the middle with both steps. The first line is the reflection of the awning arm the next line is the oxidation line.
The darkness in the middle to the bottom is the neighbors trees reflection off the RV, they are about 25' away.
A lot more work but much happier.
I looked for the M#67 at AG but didn't find it. But I did find it at a local boat shop and amazon. I still want to get some.
So I came home mad and decided I'de work with what I have.
Did the middle again, Used the yellow pad all over with 503 then went back with orange and 503. It came out much nicer.:xyxthumbs:
The 1&2 pictures if you look at the upper vents bottom right corner you can see the line. I had already done this side with the orange pad & 503. Then I did that spot between the vent and window with the yellow pad & 503.
The last 3 pictures are after I redid the middle with both steps. The first line is the reflection of the awning arm the next line is the oxidation line.
The darkness in the middle to the bottom is the neighbors trees reflection off the RV, they are about 25' away.
A lot more work but much happier.
I looked for the M#67 at AG but didn't find it. But I did find it at a local boat shop and amazon. I still want to get some.
Jomax
New member
- Jan 23, 2012
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Like I said #67 worked great for me. It left a slight haze but the sealant made it go away. Looks like new now. One thing is just buy a rotary. Gosh, even one from harbor freight if money is an issue. that that time you're using with trying products out will just get you tired.. Stop wait for the #67 then apply 501/601 and call it good. My two cents
Sent from my iPhone using AG Online
Sent from my iPhone using AG Online
Yeah, I meant the area surrounding the shiny patch, is where the coating failed. The shiny patch is where it is still intact. I read on the IG site where the pink is supposed to remove the Elixir & the Sea Glow. Is that shiny patch clean? If not try the pink on it.
The problem I have with a lot of these new acrylic sealants that are being pushed as easy cures for fiberglass(like IG) is that they don't really remove the oxidation they just cover it up with a shine. Some of the newer ones don't yellow in direct sun but some of the older ones did. Eventually they fail & its not in a controlled manner thus the jagged edges on the other photo where I said it failed.
It appears you may have some heavy oxidation. I would try the #67 like Jomax said. Bare in mind that he was using a rotary polisher which is more aggressive & so you may not get the same results with a DA polisher. Use the most aggressive cutting pad you have with the DA polisher.
If that doesn't work your only recourse would be a heavy cut compound like Meguiars 91. Its best used with a rotary & wool pad. But Filon is usually not as hard to cut as gelcoat & so I would try the 67 first because if you have to use the 91 you will still need to polish with the 503 after it.
The problem I have with a lot of these new acrylic sealants that are being pushed as easy cures for fiberglass(like IG) is that they don't really remove the oxidation they just cover it up with a shine. Some of the newer ones don't yellow in direct sun but some of the older ones did. Eventually they fail & its not in a controlled manner thus the jagged edges on the other photo where I said it failed.
It appears you may have some heavy oxidation. I would try the #67 like Jomax said. Bare in mind that he was using a rotary polisher which is more aggressive & so you may not get the same results with a DA polisher. Use the most aggressive cutting pad you have with the DA polisher.
If that doesn't work your only recourse would be a heavy cut compound like Meguiars 91. Its best used with a rotary & wool pad. But Filon is usually not as hard to cut as gelcoat & so I would try the 67 first because if you have to use the 91 you will still need to polish with the 503 after it.
- Thread starter
- #37
I haven't worked that spot yet. I'm not sure I'll get to it this week as we are going camping. But if I have to order the m67 it won't get here until next week anyways.
So you think the coating may have failed around the edges of that patch? None of the rest of the RV is that shiny, it's almost like a plastic.
I was pleased with the results on the middle, so I did a small spot below the patch it seems to be coming out as nice as the middle part I did with the yellow pad.
What do I do if That area failed? Will it come back with buffing or do I have to have it recoated?
I just bought the flex as I don't have any experience with DA's and didn't want to tear up stuff with a rotary.
I did Just see a rotary at harbor freight on sale for $30.
But before I get carried away I'll try the M67. I just can't believe no one has it locally other than West Marine $36 a bottle vs Amazon $19 a bottle. Maybe they'll price match it.
Hopefully it just needs some work, pictures vs real life just don't look the same. I did hit it with the yellow pad on the jagged part and it started to blend it. So hopefully it's just the old stuff coming off thats failing, not the RV it's self. Does filon have a failure issue or can it usually be buffed out?
One other thing is the tree reflection, is the trees are about 75' away not 25' miss typed that one. I thought that was a pretty nice reflection for only using 503, no sealants or glossy products. In real life you actually see the trees in the side of the RV.
So you think the coating may have failed around the edges of that patch? None of the rest of the RV is that shiny, it's almost like a plastic.
I was pleased with the results on the middle, so I did a small spot below the patch it seems to be coming out as nice as the middle part I did with the yellow pad.
What do I do if That area failed? Will it come back with buffing or do I have to have it recoated?
I just bought the flex as I don't have any experience with DA's and didn't want to tear up stuff with a rotary.
I did Just see a rotary at harbor freight on sale for $30.
But before I get carried away I'll try the M67. I just can't believe no one has it locally other than West Marine $36 a bottle vs Amazon $19 a bottle. Maybe they'll price match it.
Hopefully it just needs some work, pictures vs real life just don't look the same. I did hit it with the yellow pad on the jagged part and it started to blend it. So hopefully it's just the old stuff coming off thats failing, not the RV it's self. Does filon have a failure issue or can it usually be buffed out?
One other thing is the tree reflection, is the trees are about 75' away not 25' miss typed that one. I thought that was a pretty nice reflection for only using 503, no sealants or glossy products. In real life you actually see the trees in the side of the RV.
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- Thread starter
- #38
Jomax, I'm brand new to this so I'm not ready for a rotary yet. But you did yours with a GG6 and M#67, so I'm hoping to get the same results with my flex and M#67.
Either way its gonna be a 2 step process it looks like. But hopefully after I get it done this time I'll be able to maintain it with the 503/601. I did get some rejeX to seal it with once I acheved the cleaning results I wanted.
I couldn't find the second product Fk1000 you used on yours at AG.
Is it a sealant?
Have you used it before?
How long did it last?
Do you have to remove it with something or can you just clean it off by buffing again and reapplying?
I can't see a lot of detail in your pics so some things are hard to tell if they are shiny or dull. The main thing is that are you happy with the results you're getting?
'What do I do if That area failed? Will it come back with buffing or do I have to have it recoated?" I personally would not recoat it. It may continue to fail & come off. That's why I asked if that shiny patch was clean. If it were me I would strip it off & do the polishing with the 503 so that it will match the other areas you are polishing. Polishing that shiny patch may just scratch it. I don't know for sure you will just have to try it & see what happens. But it may not blend well with the other areas you are polishing. That IG Pink is supposed to strip that coating off if you want to remove it.
What you are doing now with your flex polisher (which by the way is a DA dual action polisher) and the DG 503 is lightly abrading the actual paint itself to remove the oxidation or chalk from the paint. When you polish or buff the paint it will also make it shine. If you want to further protect that shine then you can add wax on top.
The IG Elixir does not remove the oxidation. It just covers it up with a shiny sealant.
"Does filon have a failure issue or can it usually be buffed out?" All Filon is, is a thin veneer type wood that has fiberglass sprayed over the top of it & then is painted. It is not as smooth as gelcoat because you can still see & feel the fiberglass strands. The paint on it can fail just like paint on your house, car, etc. It is a ss(single stage paint) meaning their is no lacquer, clear coat, etc. on top of it. So you are working directly on the paint.
"Either way its gonna be a 2 step process it looks like. But hopefully after I get it done this time I'll be able to maintain it with the 503/601. I did get some rejeX to seal it with once I acheved the cleaning results I wanted." That's an excellent process & should work well.
The FK1000 Jomax referred to is similar to the rejex. It is a long lasting wax that many here like. Here is the link: Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax, high melt polymer car wax, Finish care auto wax
'What do I do if That area failed? Will it come back with buffing or do I have to have it recoated?" I personally would not recoat it. It may continue to fail & come off. That's why I asked if that shiny patch was clean. If it were me I would strip it off & do the polishing with the 503 so that it will match the other areas you are polishing. Polishing that shiny patch may just scratch it. I don't know for sure you will just have to try it & see what happens. But it may not blend well with the other areas you are polishing. That IG Pink is supposed to strip that coating off if you want to remove it.
What you are doing now with your flex polisher (which by the way is a DA dual action polisher) and the DG 503 is lightly abrading the actual paint itself to remove the oxidation or chalk from the paint. When you polish or buff the paint it will also make it shine. If you want to further protect that shine then you can add wax on top.
The IG Elixir does not remove the oxidation. It just covers it up with a shiny sealant.
"Does filon have a failure issue or can it usually be buffed out?" All Filon is, is a thin veneer type wood that has fiberglass sprayed over the top of it & then is painted. It is not as smooth as gelcoat because you can still see & feel the fiberglass strands. The paint on it can fail just like paint on your house, car, etc. It is a ss(single stage paint) meaning their is no lacquer, clear coat, etc. on top of it. So you are working directly on the paint.
"Either way its gonna be a 2 step process it looks like. But hopefully after I get it done this time I'll be able to maintain it with the 503/601. I did get some rejeX to seal it with once I acheved the cleaning results I wanted." That's an excellent process & should work well.
The FK1000 Jomax referred to is similar to the rejex. It is a long lasting wax that many here like. Here is the link: Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax, high melt polymer car wax, Finish care auto wax
Jomax
New member
- Jan 23, 2012
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Its lasted the whole summer in AZ weather which was 105+, reaching 115degrees in August. I would say it worked excellent. AG sells Fk1000, here's the link Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax, high melt polymer car wax, Finish care auto wax. I don't get the last sentence, are you talking about after you apply it?? Or when it's time for a fresh coat?