Need some advice RV detailing
- Thread starter Red Fire
- Start date
Wow this thread has not been an easy read for me...
It would be nice if you could rotate your pictures as well.
I'm not expert by any means, but I do have some thoughts on this.
A rotary from Harbor Freight cost very little and you'll have it for when you feel ready. They are great for starting out on. I've gotten plenty of use out of mine. Don't be afraid of it, just use good sense and keep the rpms low and keep it moving and you'll do fine. No different than using that 3401. Don't be afraid to put a small wool pad on that 3401.
Duragloss recommended great products to you. Try them with your 3401and a 6 inch wool pad before buying anything else and then use them with the foam pads. A pad is a much cheaper investement that could be used later as well. Some say wool pads don't play well with DA style polishers, but your polisher is a bit different...it's forced rotation which should provide plenty of power.
I don't see anything in the pictures that would warrant using M91...of course I only glanced shortly at the pictures before getting dizzy.
If you try the DG products with a wool pad and don't get the results you like then you might try a similar combo with Meguiar's #67 which is an awesome product. However, the DG products they recommended should work with your 3401 and a wool pad...or multiple passes with the yellow pad. Meguiar's makes an real aggressive bergundy colored pad that might work as well. I've used a G110V2 dual action polisher with that bergundy pad, M105 and M205 on a boat and got great results. However, I've fell in love with a Harbor Freight rotary, a Meguiar's W4000 wool pad with M#67.
Once you get the oxidation off the DG products are supposed to have great longevity and sealing properties.
It would be nice if you could rotate your pictures as well.
I'm not expert by any means, but I do have some thoughts on this.
A rotary from Harbor Freight cost very little and you'll have it for when you feel ready. They are great for starting out on. I've gotten plenty of use out of mine. Don't be afraid of it, just use good sense and keep the rpms low and keep it moving and you'll do fine. No different than using that 3401. Don't be afraid to put a small wool pad on that 3401.
Duragloss recommended great products to you. Try them with your 3401and a 6 inch wool pad before buying anything else and then use them with the foam pads. A pad is a much cheaper investement that could be used later as well. Some say wool pads don't play well with DA style polishers, but your polisher is a bit different...it's forced rotation which should provide plenty of power.
I don't see anything in the pictures that would warrant using M91...of course I only glanced shortly at the pictures before getting dizzy.
If you try the DG products with a wool pad and don't get the results you like then you might try a similar combo with Meguiar's #67 which is an awesome product. However, the DG products they recommended should work with your 3401 and a wool pad...or multiple passes with the yellow pad. Meguiar's makes an real aggressive bergundy colored pad that might work as well. I've used a G110V2 dual action polisher with that bergundy pad, M105 and M205 on a boat and got great results. However, I've fell in love with a Harbor Freight rotary, a Meguiar's W4000 wool pad with M#67.
Once you get the oxidation off the DG products are supposed to have great longevity and sealing properties.
davidc
New member
- May 6, 2007
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These are some pictures of my 2002 Filon sided 5ver. This part was done November 2011, then in May 2012 I did the rest of the 32 footer which accumulated to 2 coats. I started with 652 then 601 topped with 105. The 652 was done with a rotary and wool pad, the 601 and 105 done by hand. It has been under a cover till last week when we went on vacation.
Vegas Transplant
Active member
- Oct 11, 2011
- 4,447
- 3
Looks like a reworked patch, probably from a deep scratch repair.
Save yourself some labor, and pad cleaning in the future by using a liberal dose of apc in your wash bucket to cut the oxidation with your pressure washer.
And there you have it. Nice work.
OP,
I'm not so sure it's the product or the lack of power in using the 3401, rather, the lack of a more aggressive pad like a wool pad. Those DG products are top-notch products.
Jomax
New member
- Jan 23, 2012
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X2 it works, I put APC in the chemical chamber in the pressure washer. Soaked the trailer in APC. Then pressured washed the whole trailer. Cut quite a bit of oxidation.
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Jomax
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- Jan 23, 2012
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Since its a trailer and not CC. I think it's safe to use dish soap. But I might be wrong.
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- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks for all the great advice.
Sorry for the sideways pictures. I don't know why they are doing that. They aren't turned when I upload them but when they post they are sideways? Then if you double click them they are straight again. If you know how to fix this let me know.
Thanks for the advice on the 652, APC and wool pad.
The yellow pad and 503 seems to be getting it done, but I am going to give the M67 a try. I just have to wait until it arrives. I will look at getting some of the other stuff as well.
Again, thanks for all of the help.
Sorry for the sideways pictures. I don't know why they are doing that. They aren't turned when I upload them but when they post they are sideways? Then if you double click them they are straight again. If you know how to fix this let me know.
Thanks for the advice on the 652, APC and wool pad.
The yellow pad and 503 seems to be getting it done, but I am going to give the M67 a try. I just have to wait until it arrives. I will look at getting some of the other stuff as well.
Again, thanks for all of the help.
- Thread starter
- #51
Not yet. We took it camping so I need to wash it AGAIN.
I will let you know when I do though.
- Thread starter
- #52
Ok Jomax,
I did get to use M#67 the last two days.
All I can say is AMAZING!!
I mean it, that stuff is great. I can't believe how easy it took the oxidation off.
I was using 503 and a yellow pad and then 503 with an orange pad getting ok results with a lot of work and product too.
I used almost half of the gallon of 503 on the front, back and 1 side.
I only used an 1/8 of the bottle of M#67 w/orange pad on the last side. Not to mention the time around 20 hrs vs 6-7 hrs on the last side.
I did what you said #67 first then 503 both w/ orange pad never needed yellow pad.
I was curious about what you said about it having a lot of oil in it. I did see and feel it very shiny and oily feeling.
But when I applied the 503 it took the oil away? Or did it blend it in more?
Either way great product way easier.
THANK YOU for your help!!
rops::dblthumb2::dblthumb2::dblthumb2:
I did get to use M#67 the last two days.
All I can say is AMAZING!!
I mean it, that stuff is great. I can't believe how easy it took the oxidation off.
I was using 503 and a yellow pad and then 503 with an orange pad getting ok results with a lot of work and product too.
I used almost half of the gallon of 503 on the front, back and 1 side.
I only used an 1/8 of the bottle of M#67 w/orange pad on the last side. Not to mention the time around 20 hrs vs 6-7 hrs on the last side.
I did what you said #67 first then 503 both w/ orange pad never needed yellow pad.
I was curious about what you said about it having a lot of oil in it. I did see and feel it very shiny and oily feeling.
But when I applied the 503 it took the oil away? Or did it blend it in more?
Either way great product way easier.
THANK YOU for your help!!
rops::dblthumb2::dblthumb2::dblthumb2:
Jomax
New member
- Jan 23, 2012
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Ok Jomax,
I did get to use M#67 the last two days.
All I can say is AMAZING!!
I mean it, that stuff is great. I can't believe how easy it took the oxidation off.
I was using 503 and a yellow pad and then 503 with an orange pad getting ok results with a lot of work and product too.
I used almost half of the gallon of 503 on the front, back and 1 side.
I only used an 1/8 of the bottle of M#67 w/orange pad on the last side. Not to mention the time around 20 hrs vs 6-7 hrs on the last side.
I did what you said #67 first then 503 both w/ orange pad never needed yellow pad.
I was curious about what you said about it having a lot of oil in it. I did see and feel it very shiny and oily feeling.
But when I applied the 503 it took the oil away? Or did it blend it in more?
Either way great product way easier.
THANK YOU for your help!!
You're very welcome.. I used a bottle and a half of #67, on every section i made a circle of product on the pad. I was working in 90+ degree weather, so using to little product didn't work, it was drying before I was finished. I removed the oil by pressure washing with APC, i wanted to make sure the gelcoat was clean before I applied fk1000p. I wanted the sealant to bond as best as possible. I also applied one coat of fk on one side and two coats on the other, I want to see if two coats makes a difference. Washing the trailer tomorrow for the first time since April. I'll post pics on how the finish looks after an Arizona summer without a cover. I never used 501(I'm assuming 503 you meant 501) I would apply a sealant on top so you keep the shine, 501 has some protection but not a ton as 105, fk1000p, etc.
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Jomax
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- Jan 23, 2012
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I never used a rotary, I used a griots DA. Next time I'll try the rotary though.
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- Thread starter
- #55
Yes, 503 is the 501 in the 1 gallon size.
I didn't seal it as I want to redo it in the spring as this was my first time (learning curve) and I think I'll be able to do an even nicer job the second time around before I seal it.
Do you think I should use the#67 in the spring or is that mainly for more of an oxidized rig?
Maybe just use the 501/503 with 601 then seal it with the ReJex?
I noticed yours had no graphics, I was wishing mine didn't at times.
That was quite the learning curve.
I found out the hard way the back and sides I thought were painted were actually graphics.
I kept turning the pads black. So I did the following.
Washed it, washed it with diluted degreaser, clayed it not once but twice, washed it with dawn dish soap, hand rubbed same spot 5 times still black.
Quit!! Moved on to the side and every time I hit the side graphic (I thought was painted after all it was the same turquoise as the bottom boxes, back too), the pad turned black. I was like what the hell so then I started to think, is this maybe graphics too? So I rubbed them and the back part down with 303 called it a day. I called Winnebago today sure enough they had to look it up and confirmed Graphics not paint. (learning curve) Oh well I have some maintenance to do and I'll be ready for winter.
It does look really nice now ,everyone keeps telling me how great it looks.
On to the oxidized boat next, I'll be starting with my new friend #67.
Thanks again.
I didn't seal it as I want to redo it in the spring as this was my first time (learning curve) and I think I'll be able to do an even nicer job the second time around before I seal it.
Do you think I should use the#67 in the spring or is that mainly for more of an oxidized rig?
Maybe just use the 501/503 with 601 then seal it with the ReJex?
I noticed yours had no graphics, I was wishing mine didn't at times.
That was quite the learning curve.
I found out the hard way the back and sides I thought were painted were actually graphics.
I kept turning the pads black. So I did the following.
Washed it, washed it with diluted degreaser, clayed it not once but twice, washed it with dawn dish soap, hand rubbed same spot 5 times still black.
Quit!! Moved on to the side and every time I hit the side graphic (I thought was painted after all it was the same turquoise as the bottom boxes, back too), the pad turned black. I was like what the hell so then I started to think, is this maybe graphics too? So I rubbed them and the back part down with 303 called it a day. I called Winnebago today sure enough they had to look it up and confirmed Graphics not paint. (learning curve) Oh well I have some maintenance to do and I'll be ready for winter.
It does look really nice now ,everyone keeps telling me how great it looks.
On to the oxidized boat next, I'll be starting with my new friend #67.
Thanks again.
- Thread starter
- #56
The other thing I learned was to do as much ladder work as you can stand first. Then when you are tired out from up and down the ladder you can work on the bottom with new found energy.
As for cleaning the pads the on the fly worked well. To clean them at the end of the day, I threw a grit guard in the bucket of as hot as you can get water with DP cleaner (household cleaning rubber gloves a must unless you can stand super hot water). I would push the pad down to the grit guard open fist and turn it on the grit guard, let it come to the surface and repeat. Kind of like a manual bucket cleaner not as good I'm sure, but did a pretty good job of cleaning my pads.
Hope this will maybe help you.
As for cleaning the pads the on the fly worked well. To clean them at the end of the day, I threw a grit guard in the bucket of as hot as you can get water with DP cleaner (household cleaning rubber gloves a must unless you can stand super hot water). I would push the pad down to the grit guard open fist and turn it on the grit guard, let it come to the surface and repeat. Kind of like a manual bucket cleaner not as good I'm sure, but did a pretty good job of cleaning my pads.
Hope this will maybe help you.
Jomax
New member
- Jan 23, 2012
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I removed my graphics prior to buffing, they were all cracked. You could use #67 again, but you could probably get away with a polish. Only thing I could think of the decals are tape them up. It'll take awhile though. 67 is some amazing stuff for sure.
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- Thread starter
- #58
You can rub the decals first with 303 and this will help them not to smear so bad. Not perfect but seemed to help. This is were a smaller unit would be nice (tight spots).
Jomax
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- Jan 23, 2012
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AG sells plastic blades, I would heat up the decal with a hair dryer, then start peeling it with the plastic blade. Took awhile. I then Lost patience and used a metal blade,(my decals has tiny cracks everywhere and it wouldn't come off as one piece). But be CAREFUL with a metal blade, it can take a chunk of gelcoat out.
After removing the decals I used tarminator, only adhesive remover that even made a dent in the glue left over. I tried alot of them.
But one downfall if you remove the decals, if the rv is old, it leaves the decal design still there, behind the decals, the gelcoat looks like new. With my trailer being filon, I could never match it with the rest of the trailer. There's also one more problem, rv manufactures make a big mistake when installing decals. Maybe after a couple of days after they molded the gelcoat, they install the decals to move the trailer out faster. They don't wait for the gelcoat to cure, it's kind've like putting opti coat on a car that has been freshly painted. The paint doesn't get a chance to breathe and cure. The same happens with fiberglass, only it made little pretty deep cracks. You might get lucky and not have any. But I have yet to see one that didn't have it happen. Good Luck!
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