Need some boat detailing process advises!

[Dr_Pain]

I knew the time would come when I could not find an excuse to not detail boat, so here is my attempt at transitioning from automotive to boats.

One of my very good friend approached me about detailing his 29 ft Mako. The boat was refurbished over the last year and he is ready to put it in the capable hands of his buddy to beautify.

The deck was refinished using Awlgrip paint (not familiar with the product). The hull was reburbed by a fiberglass guy about a year ago, so compounded and polished but nothing since. His main eyesore is the aluminum surrounding the main cabin and the flybridge. He is unsure if it is anodized, coated etc... Lastly he wants the vinyl (seats, cushion, etc...) cleaned and protected.

I would like to ask for your expertise. :dblthumb2:

P.S. I did see the Marine 31 products on sale so I thought it would be a great opportunity to try them?!?

Please share your suggestions even if it does not the above mentioned.

Truly appreciative,

Claude

 

[dcgocd]

Awlgrip is a paint very similiar to Imron, It is a hard paint but you should be able to work on it using any automotive type polishes or waxes but I would not use the Marine polishes on it.

If the sides are gelcoat,they can be polished using Marine polish which has more oils to keep it from drying out while working it. For protection you can use automotive wax or marine wax. I personally like Meguirs Flagship Marine which comes as a cleaner wax or you can buy just the straight wax with no cleaning abilities.

As far as the aluminum, if its bare aluminum,a good aluminum polish should work,but if its anodized,it would harm the surface but someone else should chime in here that has more experience with anodized.

 

[Dr_Pain]

Thanks for the input! Welcoming more opinions. I do like the idea of using automotive products since I do have my fair share of those.

I haven't seen the boat yet. I guess it will become clear once I see it (at least for the aluminum)

 

[Jomax]

All depends on the condition, I buff my fiberglass trailer(kinda the same) so I'll help any way I can. For the interior vinyl I would use 303 protectant for the vinyl.

For the gel coat, Meguiars makes some good products. I've used them in the past with good results. Only thing I hate is the amount of oil megs put in. It kinda makes the surface look better than it is. Other than that can't complain.

You could get away with a DA, but I highly recommend a rotary. Just makes life easier. If you want perfection you could use the DA for the polishing step and a rotary for the compounding step.

I will say, working on gelcoat is a ton harder than cars or trucks. Once you do one , cars and trucks seem like cake walk. At least it does for me.


Sent from my iPhone using AG Online

 

[Alek@DeepClean]

For any kind of gelcoat on boats: skip the DA and head straight for a rotary+wool.

Mike Philips has a great video on detailing boats, its like an hour long. He goes over the process and products he uses on just about every surface on that thing. I'll see if I can't find it for you

EDIT: Here it is: [video=youtube_share;0iabK-X7lzY"]How to Detail Your Boat - Removing Oxidation - Maintaining Sunbrella and Isinglass - YouTube[/video]
One thing to keep in mind is that he is dealing with a couple who knows nothing about detailing, specifically machine polishing. He gives them DA's because they're new, but for gelcoat you really want to go with a rotary(which he will tell you himself, if I recall correctly).

 

[Dr_Pain]

Since the Marine 31 products are on sale, any recommendation on those?

I did watch Mike's vids and feel a little better about taking on the job. Just want product recommendation, especially for aluminum

 

[Jomax]

Since the Marine 31 products are on sale, any recommendation on those?

I did watch Mike's vids and feel a little better about taking on the job. Just want product recommendation, especially for aluminum

Never heard of them, but for aluminum, any metal polish will do honestly.




Sent from my iPhone using AG Online

 

[dipolley]

Only thing I can add is make sure it isn't in the water. It can be very difficult when it is.

 

[Nick McKees37]

I knew the time would come when I could not find an excuse to not detail boat, so here is my attempt at transitioning from automotive to boats.

One of my very good friend approached me about detailing his 29 ft Mako. The boat was refurbished over the last year and he is ready to put it in the capable hands of his buddy to beautify.

Have no fear - Marine 31 is here! :righton:

The deck was refinished using Awlgrip paint (not familiar with the product).

You'll want to avoid the heavier cut compounds and polishes on this type of paint, but you can use Marine 31 All-In-One Gel Coat Polish & Wax. This will lightly polish the paint while leaving down a durable, high-gloss layer of wax protection.

The hull was reburbed by a fiberglass guy about a year ago, so compounded and polished but nothing since.

If the hull is in relatively good shape, I would use Marine 31 Gel Coat Final Step Polish followed by Marine 31 Gel Coat Carnauba Wax + Sealant. This will remove any light oxidation, surface staining and yellowing while feeding the gel coat essential oils. Carnauba Wax + Sealant will lock in the shine while providing durable protection.

His main eyesore is the aluminum surrounding the main cabin and the flybridge. He is unsure if it is anodized, coated etc...

Most likely it is aluminum. If it is aluminum, you can use Marine 31 Finish Cut Metal Restoring Polish on a WOOL pad (rotary or DA) to restore the shine and luster. Protect the finish and lock in the shine with Marine 31 Gel Coat Carnauba Wax + Sealant.

Lastly he wants the vinyl (seats, cushion, etc...) cleaned and protected.

If the vinyl surfaces aren't too dirty, you can take the simple approach and use Marine 31 Vinyl Cleaner & Conditioner. This product is formulated to both clean and protect vinyl surfaces. It is formulated with Ciba Tinuvin UV inhibitors, which provide the best UV protection money can buy.

If the vinyl surfaces are heavily soiled, I would recommend using Marine 31 Port to Starboard All Purpose Cleaner first. You can use this APC to clean virtually anything and because it's concentrated, you can dilute it accordingly for each surface. Follow up with Marine 31 Vinyl Cleaner & Conditioner to protect the finish.

I would like to ask for your expertise. :dblthumb2:

P.S. I did see the Marine 31 products on sale so I thought it would be a great opportunity to try them?!?

Please share your suggestions even if it does not the above mentioned.

Truly appreciative,

Claude

Marine 31 Waxes, Cleaners & Polishes were developed right here in South Florida and we spent A LOT of time fine-tuning each product to ensure they were exceptionally easy to use, even in direct sunlight. We also spent a lot of time talking to local marinas and avid boating enthusiasts to see what THEY would like to see in a marine care product. The universal response was "eco-friendly" and "easy to use" and we're proud to say that each and every Marine 31 product is harbor-safe, eco-friendly and VERY easy to use.

If you want to take the SIMPLE approach to boat care, Marine 31 Waxes, Cleaners & Polishes is the way to go. rops:

Recommended products:

Marine 31 All-In-One Gel Coat Polish & Wax
Marine 31 Port to Starboard All Purpose Cleaner
Marine 31 Gel Coat Carnauba Wax + Sealant
Marine 31 Gel Coat Final Step Polish
Marine 31 Finish Cut Metal Restoring Polish
Marine 31 Vinyl Cleaner & Conditioner

And yes, the complete line is on sale through the weekend.

Marine 31 - Waxes, Cleaners & Polishes

 

[Jomax]

Nick never fails to amaze! Seems like a great product!


Sent from my iPhone using AG Online

 

[Sfoster]

Hey what should I charge to detail a 28' walk around omc fishing boat?

Sent from my DROID X2 using AG Online

 

[master detailer]

I get 25 a ft on real bad boat I get 30 hr wet sanding is more. ps dont wet sand allgrip to hard . I use shela shine on alum.Just spray on clean rag and wipe on. this is the best stuff you will ever use.

 

[Sfoster]

What would you recommend for removing black streaks of a pontoon boat that has a vinyl decal wrapped around it? Black streak remover wont do anything, every year I have to compound it off

Sent from my DROID X2 using AG Online

 

[Nick McKees37]

What would you recommend for removing black streaks of a pontoon boat that has a vinyl decal wrapped around it? Black streak remover wont do anything, every year I have to compound it off

Sent from my DROID X2 using AG Online

The trick with black streaks is to remove them as soon as possible. Marine 31 Port to Starboard All Purpose Cleaner works exceptionally well for removing black streaks.

 

[Sfoster]

I'll think about getting some but I have tried 4 other black streak remover with no luck at all

Sent from my DROID X2 using AG Online

 

[MPBGT]

I have used 303 aerospace on my boat seats for years now. I have not seen any further fade. It seems to work really well on my vinyl bimini top as well.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I haven't seen the boat yet. I guess it will become clear once I see it (at least for the aluminum)

Old School Aluminum Slotted Mag Wheels - Extreme Makeover


Oxidized Aluminum Turns Black
If you’ve ever polished uncoated aluminum then you’ve seen this grayish black color coming off the aluminum and onto your polishing cloth as you work a metal polish over it.


Polishing Uncoated Aluminum

Oxidized Aluminum Comes Off Black

If you're dealing with anodized aluminum, there's nothing you can do to restore shine.

I've dealt with both uncoated and anodized aluminum and given the choice I would always choose uncoated because "you" can work on it. If the aluminum is anodized, there's nothing you can do once it starts to turn cloudy and ugly.

 

[Nick McKees37]

I have used 303 aerospace on my boat seats for years now. I have not seen any further fade. It seems to work really well on my vinyl bimini top as well.

303 Aerospace Protectant is one of the best UV protectants around.

One of the benefits of Marine 31 Vinyl Cleaner & Conditioner is that it cleans and protects, without sacrificing the UV protection provided.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

We had a guy joing AGO and post briefly to our forum, check out this thread...


Sanding aluminum trim: Wet or Dry?

Here's the pertinent portions dealing with anodized aluminum...

We've been anodizing for about 15 years so we have a little experience in the field. <G>

Anodizing GROWS a layer on the surface of the piece. This is why some parts need to be made slightly undersized when the must be finish anodized (if they are a critical fit piece). threads are particularly troublesome and should not be anodized at all. Methods to prevent the thread from being affected by the anodizing process include capping, taping and plugging.

The reason that the de-anodizing process loses material is that you are actually removing the anodic coating that has been grown on the surface of the part. In this case, you will lose anywhere between 1 and 5 thousandths from the part surface depending on how long you need to "cook" the part.

There is no way to polish an anodized part after anodizing. If you want shiny AND anodized, then you polish BEFOREHAND and then proceed with the anodizing process. Anodized surfaces can be coated with a good quality wax which will afford additional protection to the surface.

Standard polishing of aluminum is done with a tumbler, buffer or by hand. There is also chemical brite dipping that uses some extremely powerful chemicals to achieve an exceptional finish prior to anodizing.

The only things that have changed in the last decade are the dyes (High UV resistance), masking materials and ability to multi-color parts. The actual process remains the same. Acid and electricity and time. the creative part has blown up in the last 5 years and there are people doing amazing work in the field.

Cool. Great to have access to an anodizing expert in the house.

Some window trim components on new cars are anodized black, (my best guess), and they fade over time and then members will post threads asking what can be done to make them dark black again and historically they don't like the answer.

My experience has mostly been with V-drive Drag Boat hardware and a few specialty decorative items. I know just enough to be dangerous.

They're not going to like my answer either.

Unfortunately, when you have an anodized part that has faded from UV exposure or become mottled from a combination of UV and exposure to the elements, there isn't really anything that can be done to restore the original color. The problem is that the color has actually faded from the pores of the aluminum or the coating has failed.


Modern Dyes used in anodizing are strongly UV resistant, but the key word is 'resistant'. Kind of like a watch, you never hear watched being called "waterproof" simply because at some point even the best watch will leak. If trim has deteriorated to the point that it has lost color or is mottled, the only solution is really to replace it, powder coat it or paint it.

Moral of the story is that as soon as you get your car, protect it. AG sells enough protectant products that you shouldn't have any excuse for not finding SOMETHING that will work for you. This is also a good point to make to your customers when you're detailing their cars. It's a lot cheaper in the long run to use a good quality wax or sealant with High UV factors than to go to the dealer to replace trim.


These forums are a great resource for everyone to get the knowledge they need to keep improving their skills.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

It's pretty easy to tell if you're working on anodized aluminum or bare aluminum is to take a white cloth and a light to mild aluminum polish, you could even use a light cutting paint polish and even a cleaner/wax, then rub some onto the surface for a few seconds.

Turn the cloth over.

If you see black residue coming off then it's uncoated or bare aluminum and you're good to go to polish it.

If you don't see any black coming off then chances are very good the aluminum is anodized and tell the owner there's nothing anyone can do to restore the shine outside of having the parts de-anodized, then polished.


One thing for sure... boat detailing will keep you in shape...