Need some help choosing CG compound(s)

[4ord]

Hey guys,

Im looking a stepping up from the consumer line of meguiars compound and polishes, as I am running out of them (finally) and have a pretty big detail lined up. I was checking out the chemical guys website, and found they have a great deal on their "CUT" line of polishes, however, the new "V' series of polishes is also on sale. The "cut" line up is at a far far more attractive price though. Anyone have experience with the "cut" lineup? I like how it is free of silicons and filling oils (unlike the megs "ultimate" lineup), but I dont want to waste money on it if it isnt so great. I am looking at buying all 3 grades (1.0, 1.5, and 2.0), since they are only $10 a bottle. Also, does anyone know if the "cut" line is approved for DA use, or if its just meant for rotary use? ANY advice on the "cut" or "V" lines of chemical guys polishes would be great!

also, for reference, I'll need something to aid in the removal of these 240 grit sanding marks, thanks to a not so great attempt the PO made to repair the paint (which involved dry sanding the paint, and rattle canning over it )

you can kind of see what I mean here

there are also some holograms on the hood where the same PO decided to try and "correct" the hood using a headlight restoration kit

and to conclude the detailing nightmare this car is, the PO tried to paint the window moldings using some black paint and a standard paintbrush, leaving some nice blotches of back paint on the roof of the car. It would be great if the compound can aid in get those problems removed for me.

Any advice on fixing the aforementioned problems would be GREATLY appreciated, and Ill give you an internet high five if you can help me out!!!


Here's a pic of the entire car, in case anyone was curious- its a '93 LX with a modded 5.0. and no, its not the one mentioned in my signature.

 

[Chris@AutoCleanse]

From my experience to take out sanding marks you are going to need a rotary buffer unless some of the veterans want to chime in with there expertise. As far as the chemical compounds never used them.

 

[Midnight1700]

From my experience to take out sanding marks you are going to need a rotary buffer unless some of the veterans want to chime in with there expertise. As far as the chemical compounds never used them.

You can remove sanding marks without a rotary. Using the right DA, Pads, and compounds, you can accomplish scratch removal and with better results.

 

[Chris@AutoCleanse]

You can remove sanding marks without a rotary. Using the right DA, Pads, and compounds, you can accomplish scratch removal and with better results.

No matter the grit number of the sanding mark? From the pictures they looked pretty bad that's why I figured a rotary would be quicker, but thanks for the tip.

 

[Midnight1700]

No matter the grit number of the sanding mark?

I take out sanding marks from 2000 and up. Sometimes 1500 if the clear is soft. I've been know to use the DA to remove scratches caused by the owner of the car using the Green Sctoch Brite pads to remove bird residue. With a DA, there is less chance of buring thru the paint, but I would highly recommend a paint guage when doing ANY Paint Corrections.

 

[swanicyouth]

I don' have any experience with CG compounds / polishes. I saw that sale also. I'm guessing they are on sale
because they are older technology type abrasives.

Just a thought, but polishes and compounds isn't where I would try to save some money. Prices on Meg's and Optimum isn't so bad. At least you know your getting good modern abrasive technology.

 

[4ord]

I don' have any experience with CG compounds / polishes. I saw that sale also. I'm guessing they are on sale
because they are older technology type abrasives.

Just a thought, but polishes and compounds isn't where I would try to save some money. Prices on Meg's and Optimum isn't so bad. At least you know your getting good modern abrasive technology.

I think they are diminishing abrasives. The description reads- "

• An aggressive polish that begins working like a compound starting at 1000 grit and breaking down to 50 center point micro-polish (very thin)
• As buffing continues the unique abrasive system breaks down to a super fine polish. Works especially well on clear coats."

 

[SonOfOC]

The CG line of polishes and compounds are very good. Great they are not! Don't know if OP made a typo with he "240 Grit" marks, but no compound will remove those marks, unless you plan on spending days compounding.

You will need to do a few stages of wet sanding before compound and polishing.

 

[4ord]

The CG line of polishes and compounds are very good. Great they are not! Don't know if OP made a typo with he "240 Grit" marks, but no compound will remove those marks, unless you plan on spending days compounding.

You will need to do a few stages of wet sanding before compound and polishing.

No typo with the 240. And I am aware I will need to wet sand. Don't know if I am going to touch that or not, as the PO didn't spray clearcoat over the spray bomb job. That may be a job for the body shop.

 

[4ord]

Bump! Any input on the compounds? Anyone?

 

[Hoytman]

240 grit makes that paint toast in my humble opinion. By the time additional sanding is done, as well as compounding and polishing...no way....much too thin if there's even anything left at that point unless it had many, many coats of clear on it, and I doubt it.


I'd say a visit to the body and paint shop is in the works. Are you serious? 240 grit...Wowwww!!!!! That's too bad.

 

[Whatsvtec]

V34 on a surbuf on a PC followed by 205 on a white hex logic with the pc made for a perfect finish removing 3000grit damp sanding marks.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Whatsvtec]

For a 3 step you could also try the Heavy Duty cut compound. It's very aggressive. We use it on an astra d/a for headlight correction.

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[4ord]

More bumps. Thanks for all the advice so far guys.

Just got an email from CG about a sample line up of the v series polishes. Comes with v32 v34 v36 and v38. All 4oz bottles. Do you guys think that can get me through a whole detail on the mustang? $20 doesn't seem like too bad of a price, but I'm not sure that will last me for a whole detail. Am I better off just buying the discounted CUT lineup?

 

[Dr_Pain]

Not to fall off your original question but I believe that you are limiting yourself in your attempt to stay on the cheap.

This paint will NEED to be refined before you can apply compounds. If you want to limit the steps you may be able to wet sand to 1500 grit then use the Menzerna line in a 2 step process.

I have to say that I don't have any experience with the CG line of compounds. As it was pointed out, you can achieve good results but it is doubtful you will achieve great results.

A rotary will do a faster job than a DA, but you can achieve pretty awesome results with the right products.

Check out the Menzerna capacity to remove sanding marks
Menzerna, Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, Menzerna FMJ, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish,

 

[4ord]

Not to fall off your original question but I believe that you are limiting yourself in your attempt to stay on the cheap.

This paint will NEED to be refined before you can apply compounds. If you want to limit the steps you may be able to wet sand to 1500 grit then use the Menzerna line in a 2 step process.

I have to say that I don't have any experience with the CG line of compounds. As it was pointed out, you can achieve good results but it is doubtful you will achieve great results.

A rotary will do a faster job than a DA, but you can achieve pretty awesome results with the right products.

Check out the Menzerna capacity to remove sanding marks
Menzerna, Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, Menzerna FMJ, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish,

I know the paint is gone on the spoiler, and there is nothing I can do to fix that, short of getting it repainted, but it's not my car (yet). The rest of the paint is in pretty good shape, and should only need wet-sanding in a few areas. It's just swirls and a few holograms and a few RIDS. I am wanting to stay on the cheap because I know the car will not get taken out much. So I don't want to waste too much $$$ on cleaning it up, but I want to be able to clean it up and preserve the paint to the best of my ability, because in a few years I would like to possibly buy the car off of my uncle and since i did what I can, the paint will still be good. Plus I will be showing it at the next mustang show, since he has another mustang he shows.

...If that makes any sense...

Basically I want to get it looking good as possible, with a limited amount of money. I know that's easier said than done, but I've had good luck with some of the cheaper offerings from chemical guys...

I suppose I can look at Menzerna, but that's some pretty spendy stuff, right?

 

[Whatsvtec]

Not to fall off your original question but I believe that you are limiting yourself in your attempt to stay on the cheap.

This paint will NEED to be refined before you can apply compounds. If you want to limit the steps you may be able to wet sand to 1500 grit then use the Menzerna line in a 2 step process.

I have to say that I don't have any experience with the CG line of compounds. As it was pointed out, you can achieve good results but it is doubtful you will achieve great results.

A rotary will do a faster job than a DA, but you can achieve pretty awesome results with the right products.

Check out the Menzerna capacity to remove sanding marks
Menzerna, Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, Menzerna FMJ, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish,

Yes this!

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Dr_Pain]

I know the paint is gone on the spoiler, and there is nothing I can do to fix that, short of getting it repainted, but it's not my car (yet). The rest of the paint is in pretty good shape, and should only need wet-sanding in a few areas. It's just swirls and a few holograms and a few RIDS. I am wanting to stay on the cheap because I know the car will not get taken out much. So I don't want to waste too much $$$ on cleaning it up, but I want to be able to clean it up and preserve the paint to the best of my ability, because in a few years I would like to possibly buy the car off of my uncle and since i did what I can, the paint will still be good. Plus I will be showing it at the next mustang show, since he has another mustang he shows.

...If that makes any sense...

Basically I want to get it looking good as possible, with a limited amount of money. I know that's easier said than done, but I've had good luck with some of the cheaper offerings from chemical guys...

I suppose I can look at Menzerna, but that's some pretty spendy stuff, right?

Now the plot thickens a little.

Here is what I am thinking, based on your above explanation. The car is not yours and won't be for a few years, unless you can buy it from your uncle earlier. It will be driven once in a while and shown once in a while. It does have the potential of additional paint defect being instilled (until your ownership). You would like to protect and preserve the car until it is yours so you can pimp her up and "prettify" her to your liking later.

I would offer good old uncle to wash and wax the GT regularly enough to show him how much love you have for her AND THEN, when it is yours, you can put the DA or rotary to her, knowing that you will baby her and love her the way she should. She won't show well with that spoiler so no need to invest on it now, until you can make her real nice.

If you compound it now, you are removing some of its clear coat and may not have too many other chances to get rid of the swirls, scuffs, scratches, rids etc.... when you do take ownership.

You can use glazes to make her look decent and wax the daylights out of her. This should allow you to have fun..... until you can have a LOT of fun.

If your thoughts were to use the BOGO to get some CG, and this is your only project, you may end up with more products than you need. All those products have useful shelf life so saving by buying a BOGO to waste it by not being able to use it..... this is not exactly doing it on the cheap!

 

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Great advice Dr Pain. I second your recommendations.

 

[spiralout462]

Great advice Dr Pain. I second your recommendations.

x3 When it comes to paint care products a little goes a LONG way. If it's products you haven't used before perhaps a sample size would be a good idea.