Need some new pads for the rupes

[Audios S6]

I'm looking at add some new pads to my collection for the rupes 21.

On my 21, I currently use and love UHS pads, Megs DA MF cutting and Tangerine hydrotechs. I do use other pads as needed, but these are my go-tos. I'm curious what others think would be complimentary.

Also considering adding some dedicated long throw MF pads from Rupes or GG, anyone tried both and have a preference?

Finally, I might consider replacing the tangerine hydrotechs with something more durable (I get sick of them shredding to pieces). Would everyone agree that the equivalent would be rupes yellow, LC's orange HD and the GG yellow? Any preference there?

 

[fly07sti]

I really like the Meg's thin foam discs on my Rupes. The cutting pad is very versatile. Cuts good and finishes really well. Use it for AIO's, one step's, etc.

 

[Zubair]

Personally I'd stick to the recommended pads that were designed for it. Any reason you wana move away from the Rupes yellow pad? I find the machine operates best with its intended pads.

 

[Audios S6]

Personally I'd stick to the recommended pads that were designed for it. Any reason you wana move away from the Rupes yellow pad? I find the machine operates best with its intended pads.

I haven't used a rupes yellow. I like the LC tangerines because I get decent cut and finish on softer paints. The Meg MF, Rupes UHS and LC tangerines span from finishing on soft paint to great correction on hard paint for me. But I'm very open to other pads because I do notice that the UHS run much better than the others. I'm most worried about finding a replacement for the tangerines since the 21 just eats them up, but I'm not sure if Rupes yellow can achieve that same cut and finish, especially on softer paints.

 

[JSou]

I find the yellows to be more malleable than the LC orbitals. The LC orbitals are thin and you rarely ever bog with these pads but as you stated they just do not last with heavy use with the Rupes. Mine have started to deform where the center hole is and will eventually shred. I'm still using a yellow pad I ordered 2 years ago that was put through even more abuse and they are still holding up. Just to give you an idea it's gone through more than 15 one step jobs. I love them.

Their whites work well on very soft paint. I use these with a fine finishing polish prior to coating any vehicle.

Have you taken a look at Carpro's Gloss pad? I have been testing them for a couple weeks now and I am enjoying them. Tested them on extremely soft Nighthawk Black Pearl Honda paint and it corrected and finished very well for a one step with Reflect.

 

[Audios S6]

I find the yellows to be more malleable than the LC orbitals. The LC orbitals are thin and you rarely ever bog with these pads but as you stated they just do not last with heavy use with the Rupes. Mine have started to deform where the center hole is and will eventually shred. I'm still using a yellow pad I ordered 2 years ago that was put through even more abuse and they are still holding up. Just to give you an idea it's gone through more than 15 one step jobs. I love them.

Their whites work well on very soft paint. I use these with a fine finishing polish prior to coating any vehicle.

Have you taken a look at Carpro's Gloss pad? I have been testing them for a couple weeks now and I am enjoying them. Tested them on extremely soft Nighthawk Black Pearl Honda paint and it corrected and finished very well for a one step with Reflect.

Thanks Jsou, that's the info I was looking for. I can't stand buying pads that I only use once.

 

[BillyJack]

I can't speak from experience with a long-throw machine, but I would definitely try the new LC HD pads. I recently had the opportunity to use them on my GG and I was very favorably impressed. The dual layer construction seems to allow the energy transfer of a thin pad, but the cushion of a thicker pad on curved surfaces. They were able to take more pressure than other pads I've used while still rotating, cutting faster than my trusty oranges and still finishing decent on GM black paint. It's probably the first time I compounded an entire car with one pad, as they just didn't get hot. They're certainly not the cheapest pad on the market, but everything about them appears heavy duty, so I expect them to outlast conventional pads.

Bill

 

[ski2]

From what I understand Buff & Shine will release a new line of pads for long throw polishers later this summer.

 

[Martiy]

Personally I'd stick to the recommended pads that were designed for it. Any reason you wana move away from the Rupes yellow pad? I find the machine operates best with its intended pads.

I just bought a Rupes machine and pads and about 3/4 the way through correcting the paint on the first vehicle both the blue and green Rupes pads started to separate and spewing chunks of foam all over. Granted I was using higher speeds; however I would think that they should last longer than one vehicle.

While intact the performance of the pads was fantastic, but overall disappointed.

 

[Rod73]

I just bought a Rupes machine and pads and about 3/4 the way through correcting the paint on the first vehicle both the blue and green Rupes pads started to separate and spewing chunks of foam all over. Granted I was using higher speeds; however I would think that they should last longer than one vehicle.

While intact the performance of the pads was fantastic, but overall disappointed.

That's news to me I just used the green pads with my n ew Rupes without any problems. I did have the Duetto, but I remember going up to full speed quite a few times.

 

[Audios S6]

I just bought a Rupes machine and pads and about 3/4 the way through correcting the paint on the first vehicle both the blue and green Rupes pads started to separate and spewing chunks of foam all over. Granted I was using higher speeds; however I would think that they should last longer than one vehicle.

While intact the performance of the pads was fantastic, but overall disappointed.

The more they get chewed up the more wobble you'll get in the machine. I've used my UHS pads a lot and they were in pretty rough shape. I got one new one just to fill out an order and it runs super smooth by comparison, have 3 more on order now.

How many of each pad were you using to do the car?

 

[Zubair]

The Lake Country HD Orbitals designed for the Rupes are top notch too. Only use the Rupes and LC HD Orbital pads as they maintain the balance while being vibration free which increases the machines longevity and user experience.

 

[Martiy]

The more they get chewed up the more wobble you'll get in the machine. I've used my UHS pads a lot and they were in pretty rough shape. I got one new one just to fill out an order and it runs super smooth by comparison, have 3 more on order now.

How many of each pad were you using to do the car?

Thats likely the problem as I didn't switch out pads, just cleaned them on the fly with pinnacle cleaner and a light brush.

 

[Rod73]

Thats likely the problem as I didn't switch out pads, just cleaned them on the fly with pinnacle cleaner and a light brush.

:iagree:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Just to comment....


The RUPES engineers designed their pads specific to the RUPES tools and backing plates for the intended purpose of reducing and eliminating vibration.

This means the size, shape, thickness and weight of the pads are such that when attached to the matching RUPES backing plate and RUPES tool there is zero or very little vibration.

I have demonstrated this to people simply by

First - Hold a RUPES polisher in the air with no foam buffing pad attached to the backing plate in the [ON] position on speed 6. You will feel the tool vibrating.

Second - Attach the correct size RUPES pad for the backing plate and matching RUPES tool and repeat the above. That is hold the tool in the air in the [ON] position on speed 6. You will feel no vibration and a very smooth operating tool.

Now after doing the above so you know what vibration feels like with no pad and what zero vibration feels like with the engineered pad, repeat the test with the pad you're thinking of using and see if there is any vibration.

• If no vibration, your choice, use or don't use the pad.

• If you feel vibration you will know it's the pad, not the tool.

I've done my research and real world testing and what I've experienced is that what RUPES states is true and that is they engineered their pads, backing plates and tools to work together to eliminate vibration.

This is an important benefit to RUPES to offer with their tools. Check with Todd Helme or Jason Rose if this is accurate or not.

Don't matter to me what pad anyone uses on any tool I just wanted to point out that when RUPES states their pads, backing plates and tools are engineered to work together to eliminate vibration they mean it.


I've always been what I call a "system guy" that is given the choice I prefer to use a system approach versus mixing and matching products, pads and tools from multiple brands.

I'm not saying mixing and matching doesn't work but I think you hedge your bet when you stay inside a system designed by the same company.

Here's a list I compiled of the dedicated RUPES classes I've taught and documented on this forum since Autogeek added the RUPES brand to the AG store and I'm here to tell you that when used as designed and intended, their system approach works.

All of the below cars were buffed out using the RUPES system as it was intended. This means RUPES tools, pads and products. The ONLY products NOT from RUPES would be the LSP's used as at the time I'm writing this RUPES does not offer any LSPs.

For the recored, when I was at RUPES in Milan, Italy as a guest speaker for their 2014 International Sales Meeting I strongly suggested they bring out three new products,

1. A traditional carnauba car wax
2. A synthetic paint sealant
3. A paint coating

The reason why I recommended a product from each category was to give their customer base options and free choice. (we're all different). By offering RUPES brand waxes, sealants and coatings they can keep their customer base inside their line.

Because they don't offer these three types of products the FORCE their customer base to go outside their line to seal the paint. My guess is with the addition of Jason Rose to the RUPES team that this may change and I can't be the only one to see the lack of an LSP as a downside to what is a great line.

They should also bring out a one-step cleaner/wax like this one,

Jewelling Wax


I think this product would work well with the RUPES tools and pads and production detailing is the largest chunk of the detailing industry, not show car detailing. Guess we'll all get to wait and see what RUPES does into the future.



Here's the list of classes and cars buffed out using the RUPES paint polishing system since Autogeek bring in the RUPES brand.


List of RUPES BigFoot Detailing Classes at Autogeek



May 2013

Pictures: Detailing Boot Camp Class - May 4th & 5th, 2013

Training car: 1987 Buick Grand National
Special guests: Marco D'Inca Andreas Valentini


The person using the RUPES BigFoot in the below picture is the head engineer for RUPES - Marco D'Inca

September 2013

Rupes Detailing Classes at Autogeek!

Training car: 1963 Ford Galaxie Streetrod

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized %1%2 and weights %3.

January 2014

Pictures: Autogeek Detailing Class - January 2014

Training car: 1970 El Camino Streetrod with a 635 cubic inch Big Block Chevy

May 2014

Pictures: Detailing Classes at Autogeek - May 2014

Training car: 1964 Impala SS Convertible

September 2014

Rupes Bigfoot Polishers Detailing Class & Extreme Paint Restoration

Training car: 1967 Lincoln Continental Convertible with original single stage paint.

January 2015

How to use the Rupes Bigfoot Polisher - Detailing Class

Training car: 1962 Chrysler 300 Sport

May 2015

Removing water spots with Rupes Bigfoot 21 Orbital Polisher

Training car: 1955 Chevy Bel Air

July 2015

Car Detailing Classes - RUPES BigFoot Paint Polishing System

Training car: 1970 GTO Judge

 

[Matt@Revive]

compounding: Megs MF cut
one step polishing, finish polishing, AIO : Rupes yellow

my go to pad bin had only these 2 pads in it. there isn't a car i've done that this pad combo hasn't handled.

 

[Zubair]

Thanks Mike, read your free air spin test above and rushed over to my Rupes. The 5.5" LC Flat pads displayed very noticeable vibration. The Rupes pads along with the LC HD Orbitals were vibration free! So my advice above was spot on

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks Mike, read your free air spin test above and rushed over to my Rupes.

The 5.5" LC Flat pads displayed very noticeable vibration.

The Rupes pads along with the LC HD Orbitals were vibration free!

It's an interesting way to test compatible pads.

So my advice above was spot on

A great forum is made up of good people who freely help others reach their goals.


:dblthumb2:

 

[Todd@RUPES]

I've done my research and real world testing and what I've experienced is that what RUPES states is true and that is they engineered their pads, backing plates and tools to work together to eliminate vibration.

This is an important benefit to RUPES to offer with their tools. Check with Todd Helme or Jason Rose if this is accurate or not.

Spot on Mike.

The larger the stroke, the more sensitive the machine becomes to imbalance. The easiest way to test for this imbalance is to run the tools in free air.

RUPES is a tool manufacturer, that is we engineer and build the tools, not purchase them and slap a label on them. Since 1947, RUPES' reputation as an engineering firm and tool manufacturer in Europe has been beyond approach.

The original BigFoot Project was projected to take around 6 months to complete, but actually took almost 3 years. To ensure optimal performance and to elongate tool life, it is necessary to balance the rotating assembly completely. Not only is a large stroke sensitive to imbalance, but it is also damaged by it. Any vibration you feel in free air is side load on the bearing inside the tool (note: vibration is absorbed by the foam when applied to the paint BUT the imbalance is still loading the bearing).

Because we are the originators of large-throw tools and we engineered them over the course of 3 years, we understand how damaging this imbalance is. If it vibrates in free air, it wasn't designed by engineers.

 

[Bunky]

If it vibrates in free air, it wasn't designed by engineers.

Todd, I think most will get your point but I think you would better say it is as not as well engineered as Rupes (not no engineering vs engineering) if you are trying to say it is designed with no compromises on all aspects. Engineers can design any level depending on the job at hand.

In any engineering activity you can make compromises based upon project goals, and obviously someone can design to optimize some other aspect over another.

If two have two cars: one optimized for power (huge engine) and another optimized for a smooth quiet ride, the one that is considered better engineered depends on goals.

I do like the smoothness of my Rupes 15 but have not used any long throw.