Need some opinions..

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rddmxmeth10

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I had recently bought a 2012 Elantra and I am going to clean 'er up over the weekend. My plan of attack was to wash with dawn, clay, dry the car (obviously) and then the plan of attack was to use PB SSR-1 with a white LC CCS foam pad, then follow with PB natty blue paste and LC CCS black/grey pad, then follow with PBPWS and a red LC CCS pad. The car is brand new, and overall there is very little swirls on the car, thats why I chose the SSR-1 and the white pad. My main concern, other than what you think of the plan I have set, is that the car was assembled 2-28-12 and I bought it on 3-23-12, so has the paint cured fully? Is it too early for me to be hitting it with the PC? Should I just clean it with dawn and slap a coat of wax on? I need some opinions...thanks ladies and gents! Much appreciated!
 
Just read up on the PBPWS and it says to apply nattys after the PWS. So I will wash, clay, SSR-1, PBPWS, then Nattys blue paste. But after reading up on the PBPWS, I think that the SSR-1 might be overkill? Thanks in advance everyone!
 
I would def strip the wax and clay bar it with a mild clay. I use Clay magic blue. Its pretty soft and gets light fall out easily. I've never used the PB line up so I cant comment on that set up but for DD that you want to look good I would rec a glaze or paint cleaner like WG Paint Cleaner. It doesn't offer any cut but it will make the paint shine.

Don't get me wrong, you can use a polish with some cut, but unless your going to be able to keep your car show room condition, there really is no point. Your going to have swirls. You only have so much clear to work with. I think using a glaze and having a car that looks good even if its a fakeout, is a more realistic expectation for DD than constantly compounding/polishing it.

For the sealant, I would rec the Red hydro pad because it doesn't drink up sealant like other pads and it applies super thin which is nice because you use less product and get more even application. I'm 99%sure the paint is cured so that shouldn't be an issue. You also need to see what your paint looks like after you strip it. A lot of the dealerships use glazes to hide stuff so you don't know what your working with. If I remember correctly(which often I don't) I thought the SSR-1 was the most aggersive compound? Def don't need that, but I might have the number wrong lol. You wanna start least aggressive if your going that route.
 
Just use a paint cleaner (Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion) after claying and apply your LSP. :buffing: BTW your paint was heat baked, so it's safe to polish if you choose too.
rddmxmeth10 said:
Just read up on the PBPWS and it says to apply nattys after the PWS. So I will wash, clay, SSR-1, PBPWS, then Nattys blue paste. But after reading up on the PBPWS, I think that the SSR-1 might be overkill? Thanks in advance everyone!
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Mobile detail said:
I would def strip the wax and clay bar it with a mild clay. I use Clay magic blue. Its pretty soft and gets light fall out easily. I've never used the PB line up so I cant comment on that set up but for DD that you want to look good I would rec a glaze or paint cleaner like WG Paint Cleaner. It doesn't offer any cut but it will make the paint shine.

Don't get me wrong, you can use a polish with some cut, but unless your going to be able to keep your car show room condition, there really is no point. Your going to have swirls. You only have so much clear to work with. I think using a glaze and having a car that looks good even if its a fakeout, is a more realistic expectation for DD than constantly compounding/polishing it.

For the sealant, I would rec the Red hydro pad because it doesn't drink up sealant like other pads and it applies super thin which is nice because you use less product and get more even application. I'm 99%sure the paint is cured so that shouldn't be an issue. You also need to see what your paint looks like after you strip it. A lot of the dealerships use glazes to hide stuff so you don't know what your working with. If I remember correctly(which often I don't) I thought the SSR-1 was the most aggersive compound? Def don't need that, but I might have the number wrong lol. You wanna start least aggressive if your going that route.
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SSR-1 is the least aggressive in their line. In regards to the pad choice, those are the only pads I have available to me until I place an order. I think I might end up just slapping on some wax and calling it a day. Your right, there is only so much clear to work with and I don't want to take it all away the first yaer of having the car.

Rsurfer said:
Just use a paint cleaner (Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion) after claying and apply your LSP. :buffing: BTW your paint was heat baked, so it's safe to polish if you choose too.
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I read up on the Pinnacle, and other cleansers and it seems to be just a filler that hides everything. I want it to look good, but I dont want the product to wear away after two weeks and have to do it all over again. Thanks again!
 
rddmxmeth10 said:
I read up on the Pinnacle, and other cleansers and it seems to be just a filler that hides everything. I want it to look good, but I dont want the product to wear away after two weeks and have to do it all over again. Thanks again!
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You can always use a wipedown with Griot's or diluted IPA if you are really concerned. Paint cleaning can be very beneficial if you are not polishing. But, anything can fill whether intended or not.
 
New car paint is baked on at high temps so there is not much curing time involved.
 
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