Need some recommendations for new car.

Brett K

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I used to enjoy detailing my cars 20 years ago but I haven't been keeping up with products and techniques since. I am picking up a new Lincoln Corsair next week and thought I would like to start off with some detailing therapy. I have an old Porter Cable random orbital polisher that I have been using and abusing for 20 years that just won’t die. Any advice on a good polish and pad, as well as a user friendly ceramic coating associated products for prep? I will also want to treat the black plastic trim with something. If it matters, the color is a lighter pearl blue.
 
No need for a new polisher as the Porter Cable will do what you need which shouldnt need paint correction.
A fine polish that you could use would be Sonax Perfect Finish along with a fine pad. You could even get a Grants fine pad at Harbor Freight if that is convenient.
Im not a ceramic coating user so i have no recommendations there.
For some decent protection cant get any easier than the spray sealants and detailers.
Harbor Freight sells the Meguiars Ceramic Detailer which is a good product again if convenience is what you want. A phenomenal spray detailer is Feynlab Hybrid Ceramic Detailer which can be used as stand alone protection and cant be easier to use and can be used on plastics/trim.
It is a good idea to use panel prep before applying your LSP as it will allow the protection to bond better. Which is what you want with a sealer. I make my own panel prep with 21 oz distilled water, 10 oz isopropyl alcohol and 1 oz Lauryl Sulphate Sodium Salt ( provides lubrication) and is available on Amazon.
 
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I’d wait about a year with nothing on trim and then ceramic coat them.


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For the porter cable I’d probably got Lake country SDO pads. Polishing ones (orange) and blacks (finishing ) should be fine. I’d spend the money on the CCS SDO’s myself


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I just went ahead and ordered all Blackfire products. I have been generally pleased with their products in the past.
 
What Blackfire products did you buy? Last I heard they had discontinued a lot of them.
 
For the porter cable I’d probably got Lake country SDO pads. Polishing ones (orange) and blacks (finishing ) should be fine. I’d spend the money on the CCS SDO’s myself


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Just curious why you recommend the CCS pads. I tried them a long time ago and just never "got it" or had an Aha moment. No bad experience or anything, just wondered what the fuss was about. These were the older straight sided pads that were a bit thicker than today's pads
 
Just curious why you recommend the CCS pads. I tried them a long time ago and just never "got it" or had an Aha moment. No bad experience or anything, just wondered what the fuss was about. These were the older straight sided pads that were a bit thicker than today's pads

I’m I tried the CCS (non SDO) and wasn’t a fan. The idea is less heat and from what I’ve read on the newer SDO CCS. Believe there different foam also and they perform better than Old CCS.

To be fair I’ve never tried these as only short throw I have is gear driven. Was going to try HDO CCS (for long throws) but decided on Rupes pads. Ive never been one to match pad with polisher but heard the HLR15 like these best. Good sale, no tax and a gift card so now I guess I’m a Rupes guy?

(JK also running Flex as well.


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Just curious why you recommend the CCS pads. I tried them a long time ago and just never "got it" or had an Aha moment. No bad experience or anything, just wondered what the fuss was about. These were the older straight sided pads that were a bit thicker than today's pads

I’m I tried the CCS (non SDO) and wasn’t a fan. The idea is less heat and from what I’ve read on the newer SDO CCS. Believe there different foam also and they perform better than Old CCS.

To be fair I’ve never tried these as only short throw I have is gear driven. Was going to try HDO CCS (for long throws) but decided on Rupes pads. Ive never been one to match pad with polisher but heard the HLR15 like these best. Good sale, no tax and a gift card so now I guess I’m a Rupes guy?

(JK also running Flex as well.


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Just curious why you recommend the CCS pads. I tried them a long time ago and just never "got it" or had an Aha moment. No bad experience or anything, just wondered what the fuss was about. These were the older straight sided pads that were a bit thicker than today's pads

I’m I tried the CCS (non SDO) and wasn’t a fan. The idea is less heat and from what I’ve read on the newer SDO CCS. Believe there different foam also and they perform better than Old CCS.

To be fair I’ve never tried these as only short throw I have is gear driven. Was going to try HDO CCS (for long throws) but decided on Rupes pads. Ive never been one to match pad with polisher but heard the HLR15 like these best. Good sale, no tax and a gift card so now I guess I’m a Rupes guy?

(JK also running Flex as well.


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Just curious why you recommend the CCS pads. I tried them a long time ago and just never "got it" or had an Aha moment. No bad experience or anything, just wondered what the fuss was about. These were the older straight sided pads that were a bit thicker than today's pads

I tried old SDO and wasn’t not a fan but have read in new HDO and SDO it’s way to go.

I’ve never tried as I used boss and rupes pads for my long throws. If I had a short throw these are what I’d try.


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Just curious why you recommend the CCS pads. I tried them a long time ago and just never "got it" or had an Aha moment. No bad experience or anything, just wondered what the fuss was about. These were the older straight sided pads that were a bit thicker than today's pads

I tried old SDO and wasn’t not a fan but have read in new HDO and SDO it’s way to go.

I’ve never tried as I used boss and rupes pads for my long throws. If I had a short throw these are what I’d try.


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Just curious why you recommend the CCS pads. I tried them a long time ago and just never "got it" or had an Aha moment. No bad experience or anything, just wondered what the fuss was about. These were the older straight sided pads that were a bit thicker than today's pads

I tried old SDO and wasn’t not a fan but have read in new HDO and SDO it’s way to go.

I’ve never tried as I used boss and rupes pads for my long throws. If I had a short throw these are what I’d try.


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Read new plastics need to off gas before coating. Also never needed to coat before as it still looks good in that time.
I don't buy that, if there's any outgassing it's from the heat and UV exposure. If you want to keep your trim "looking good" the time to coat it is when it's new, just like your paint. You do what you want.
 
I don't buy that, if there's any outgassing it's from the heat and UV exposure. If you want to keep your trim "looking good" the time to coat it is when it's new, just like your paint. You do what you want.

I mean I’m sure if it was a good idea or even not a bad one coating companies would tell us to use ASAP. Sooner we apply sooner we gotta reapply. Plastics off gas a lot longer than paints usually.

Also plastic coatings absorb more into trim as it’s more porous. So I personally will wait 6-12 months but you do you

I usually do what I want and really wasn’t looking for your approval.


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I mean I’m sure if it was a good idea or even not a bad one coating companies would tell us to use ASAP.
What coating company is telling "us" NOT to use ASAP? I didn't realize this was a thing, that if you buy a new car and take it to, say, Sizzle Chest, he'll only coat the paint, and tell you to come back in a year so he can coat the trim?

And not to belabor this, but paints start out as a liquid with solvents, etc. in them.

Injection molded plastic starts out as a hard, solid pellet of plastic that is then melted, injected into a mold, and allowed to cool. Where exactly does this volatile material that is off-gassing coming from? Does an injection molder have to wait until the pellets off-gas before they mold a part? Why don't they put the parts in a kiln and out-gas everything before they put the parts on the car, you know, like they do with 2x4's before they get to Home Depot? Have you ever been to an injection molding plant? Take a guess whether I have.
 
What coating company is telling "us" NOT to use ASAP? I didn't realize this was a thing, that if you buy a new car and take it to, say, Sizzle Chest, he'll only coat the paint, and tell you to come back in a year so he can coat the trim?

And not to belabor this, but paints start out as a liquid with solvents, etc. in them.

Injection molded plastic starts out as a hard, solid pellet of plastic that is then melted, injected into a mold, and allowed to cool. Where exactly does this volatile material that is off-gassing coming from? Does an injection molder have to wait until the pellets off-gas before they mold a part? Why don't they put the parts in a kiln and out-gas everything before they put the parts on the car, you know, like they do with 2x4's before they get to Home Depot? Have you ever been to an injection molding plant? Take a guess whether I have.

Not sure what video I saw it on I think [mention]The Guz [/mention] may have said it also. As for questions you have try google AI.

Injection molded plastics can very in ingredients including voc’s


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