Need to fix the finish on my Lexus myself, Ready to purchase PC or GG and what pads?

If you use MF pads go with the GG Boss MF. They are so nice and easy to use. The Megs DMC5 are good also but not as good as the GG IMO. They don't mat down like the Megs and are much easier to use in tight areas and body contours.
GG Boss MF paired with GG Fast Correcting Cream is a combo that is tough to beat and I highly recommend it along with several others on the site.
 
GSKR said:
Ok go Tommorow and get the hotrims wheel cleaner,and spray a little section and agitate with something.let it dwell for 4 minutes rinse really good.If they are still there then they are cratered into the paint.option 1 would be to level the spots or rid them with a rotary.option 2 dampsanding with 2000.option 3 is repaint.maybe someone else will chime in on suggestions.I had a 13 vette 3 weeks ago,I put straight acid on the paint and nothing.pulled it into the garage tried to polish them out nothing.wetsanded the whole car and now its beautiful glossy and clarity so good luck.
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Its 100% etched into the paint, you can actually see its etched
 
If it's truly etched and cratered into the paint all over the mentioned body panels,a more aggressive approach would have to be considered.But I'm not there to verify 100 percent to make that decision to advise you on the next level.Take the car to a very reputable detailer in town and see what can be done.If the paint wasn't so old I would sand cut and buff.start from a skilled detailer and weigh out your options,either sand or just repaint.It all boils down about the cost and what you want to do about it good luck and post back.
 
Looking at that photo, it reminds me a lot of my previous Audi that was etched from acid rain. I never had the tools to get it completely corrected. I'd say if you can afford it, you'll do a much better job with a Flex 3401. The forced rotation is going to be a huge help in leveling out those marks. You can use a less aggressive pad and I think it would be safer for the paint overall.

If you go with the Griots GG6 (which is a nice machine, and what I own) use earplugs. It's not mentioned on here much, but the drone will get to you after a while.
 
Unfortunately don't know any good detailers in town or I wouldn't have paid this guy for no results. I am tempted to try to wet sand them out with 1500 grit as a last resort before paying to have the panels repainted.
 
brettS4 said:
Looking at that photo, it reminds me a lot of my previous Audi that was etched from acid rain. I never had the tools to get it completely corrected. I'd say if you can afford it, you'll do a much better job with a Flex 3401. The forced rotation is going to be a huge help in leveling out those marks. You can use a less aggressive pad and I think it would be safer for the paint overall.

If you go with the Griots GG6 (which is a nice machine, and what I own) use earplugs. It's not mentioned on here much, but the drone will get to you after a while.
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Hmm was hoping not to spend that much but reading reviews on this one, it looks like I would need something this aggressive to get the job done. Would I still be using the same products? looks like there is now a backplate that allows a 5.5 inch pad or would I just use the included backplate and use a 6.5 inch pad?
 
KDR83 said:
Literally everything mentioned I have to google lol. D300 is a compound correct? And DMC5 are pads?
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Yep. There are some great videos on YouTube where Jason Rose (when he was with Meguiar's), and Mike Pennington visit Mike Phillips at Autogeek, and demonstrate / explain how to use the system in depth. There is the initial one from 2010, and a "Part II" with updates.
 
KDR83 said:
Hmm was hoping not to spend that much but reading reviews on this one, it looks like I would need something this aggressive to get the job done. Would I still be using the same products? looks like there is now a backplate that allows a 5.5 inch pad or would I just use the included backplate and use a 6.5 inch pad?
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I've never used a Flex, so I'm not the one to ask. I know the recommended pads are different from a standard DA, and you can go with a larger pad since you don't have to worry about stalling at all. It saves a lot of time (from what I've read).

Products will be the same, more or less, but you might have to start over with researching what combination you'd want. Usually the machine will dictate what pads you want. And certain pads work better with certain products (DAT vs SMAT). You can get the same results with various brands of products, so don't let that be your deciding factor.

I know there's a lot of information to digest and you probably want to get it done NOW. But do some research first so you won't be wasting money, time and effort. You'll be a lot happier if you do it right the first time.
 
KDR83 said:
Unfortunately don't know any good detailers in town or I wouldn't have paid this guy for no results. I am tempted to try to wet sand them out with 1500 grit as a last resort before paying to have the panels repainted.
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I would start at 2500 grit and not aim for perfection,just get it acceptable do you have a rotary?
 
No I have nothing lol....I know I can get it about 85% better as there is a test spot on the corner of the trunk that a detailer did for the previous owner and it's very much acceptable, not perfect but acceptable for a 12 year old car, unfortunately I have no clue what he did and neither does the previous owner of the car.
 
How are you gonna remove the marring left from sanding with no tools,actually a rotary.where do you live there has to be a reputable detailer within 70 miles worst case scenario.
 
It's frowned upon using wheel acid to remove etched spots on this forum,but that's the last resort before sanding.wish you were in south fla I could give you a helping hand on a Sunday.
 
Make it's worth it for me to make a trip to south florida haha, I used to live in south beach. I just want someone to look at it and make sure I can achieve a good result on the car before I go dropping a ton of money on products, pads and a machine.
 
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