Need Your Help Guys and Gals

[WAXOFF]

I work at VW and have driven them since 2000. VW clear is very hard. It looks to me like you need to do a complete decon with Iron X and clay and then USe WGDGPS and then top with Collinite 476S. You must have some bad acid rain in your area. I would also keep some CG V7 around for quick wipe downs.

 

[EppyzMK6]

I think a coating is definitely the way to go. They don't make Opti coat anymore, they make Opti gloss. Either that, CQuartz, or the GTechniq EXO or C1 then EXO. There are few more coatings available. I would read about these products and decide which you feel would do best. A wax or wax type product can't take that kind of heat. Have you ever measured the surface temp in the middle of the day...I would say 150-165.

It varies on the car, I have used an infrared Thermometer on the paint before, typically 170F-180F are typical on the roof, hood can reach over 200F, right above the engine in the area of the turbo charger.

Well, I am on the fence about what to do. I wouldn't mind doing the job myself but couldn't do it all in one day. Would have to break the car up in pieces week by week. I get my kids on my days off and dont want to spend all day in the garage and not visiting with them. I do have a D/A but not very experienced with it. I know all the "Basic How To's" its just actually time using it is minimal. I am not sure what pads to use, so many different brands and and such OMG.

The car does have some crease lines down the sides below the window molding and about door handle height. I think a D/A with the right pad and product should not burn anything right?

I was thinking of just using a very fine polish to start. I think the swirls should come out very easily. Maybe Menzerna SF4000 or PF2500 would do? Or should I use something more aggressive? I like Menzerna Products, I do have some Meguiars products, like their M09 Swirl Remover, and their Ultimate Compound. The later has been my go to for etchings thus far. Maybe the Meguiars M205 would be good to try as well?

If anyone has any experience with VW paints and has any pointers for me? What pads to use, products, I am all ears.

I did get a quote by a detailer to apply Opti-Coat Pro to my car. They want $495 plus $70 per hour to correct and "prep" the paint for the Opti Pro. Man, I can see this getting around $800 if I had it done by a pro. Is that a fair price if I choose to go that route?

Again, I dont mind doing it myself, just cant do it all at once, and I wouldn't go with Opti Pro, I think that is only available to the dealers, but just would probably put 2 coats of PL on, or possible try the Opti Gloss myself.

Any Thoughts would be much appreciated. Thank You.


Jeff

 

[Crispy]

I realize this is some time after the original post but, you are on the right track. The reason your paint shows the defects is because the "sealer" is sacrificing itself and therefore the original defects keep reappearing. Best bet is use your DA with light cut pad (lake country green) and Optimum Hyper Polish to remove defects. Use a polishing pad (lake country black) and Optimum Hyper Polish to prepare for Option Gloss Coat. Apply two "coats" but wait 24hrs between to allow to "cure". Last Step Polish (LSP) is subjective. I use Permanon Platinum followed with a carnuba wax because its easy to apply and gives a good deep shine. This should get you setup for easy regular maintanence. I'm in Canada and my enemy is salt not baked on water but the above process definitely makes maintanence with No Rinse Wash much easier.

 

[custmsprty]

Just curious, that area is basically desert right? This is from wikipedia about your climate:

The 85-year average annual rainfall is 2.93 inches (74 mm) with June being the driest month.

We can get that much rain easily in a day in Florida in the summer. We average about 50" of rain a year, got 68" this past year.

So how often is it even raining in Imperial when you average less than 3" of rain a year. I have to go back to some other posters, sprinklers? Hard water etc.