New (better?) Take on The Grit Guard / 2BM

swanicyouth

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So, ever since I first saw a Grit Guard (GG) used, I haven't done a 2BM wash without one. When I'm done, I always look in the "rinse bucket" and see how much dirt is is there. That dirt would have been in my wash bucket if a second bucket with a GG wasn't used.

Recently, I started doing a Gary Dean Wash Method (GDWM) type wash using high quality microfiber towels and conventional soap. The idea is, you will never let a dirty (used) portion of a towel touch your paint once your done with it. This works great for rinseless washes.

The problem I found while doing this with conventional soap is by the time your on the 3rd or 4th side of the towel, much of the soap has ran/dripped out of the towel. Your no longer using that foamy soapy towel you began with. The towel is still wet, but the "glide factor" seems gone from the towel. A towel doesn't hold as much soap as a mit. Not to mention, if you want to use something like a Wookie's Fist or a Chenille Wash mit, you would need to buy a dozen or so of them.

So, I went back to the conventional 2BM. To me, the one short coming of the 2BM has always been after you start, your essentially rinsing your mit in dirty water. A GG helps separate your mit from the dirt at the bottom of the bucket. But, there is still some dirt floating in that bucket.

I always wanted to come up with a way to constantly rinse my mit with clean water. So, my mit is as clean on the last panel is it was when I started the first. One way is just to keep changing the water in your rinse bucket during the wash, or using many rinse buckets. But, that's time consuming and a little
impractical.

I've been thinking of this for a while. I even thought of a crazy idea to have a rinse bucket with some type of filtration system built into it. Almost like a fish tank, where your rinse bucket water is constantly getting filtered. That wasn't going to happen.

So, I came up with a pretty simple idea that I think will work great. Basically, it's a bottomless rinse bucket. The idea is, to blast your mit clean with your hose or pressure washer after each use - using a never ending stream / supply of CLEAN water. It's awkward to do this with a hose, as you have to sit the mit down to do it, the surface has to be perfectly clean, and the mit always wants to fly away. Do it in the rinse bucket, and your just stirring up dirt and swishing around dirty water. Try and hold the mit in your hand, you get soaked and full of soap.

I thought of the easiest way to do it. Basically, I "lined" the outside of a regular GG with 3/8" fuel line hose so it sits up higher in a 5 gallon bucket. Then, I cut about 2/3 of the bucket away below the level of the GG so the "dirty" rinse water I'm blasting the mit with just flows away. I'm using it with a bucket caddy, so its nowhere near the ground. It looks like this.

This is the GG line with hose to make it "wider" so it sits higher up in the bucket:

mu2uvyze.jpg


y5u2yvub.jpg


This is the "cut away" bucket:

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The bucket has 3 large cut always down to the bottom of the bucket. The bottom is still in place.

This is the "system" put together:

amybepes.jpg


syse5eba.jpg


Upside down. The fuel line wedges the GG in place tightly.

era6yqyt.jpg


This is how you would use it. Your mit is on the GG, and you just blast it clean with your hose (I would use a pressure washer) and unlimited clean water. All the dirt / dirty water runs out of the cut-outs of the bucket, away from your mit:

zyga3e4a.jpg


You can also use it to blast pads / applicators clean with a pressure washer, and they won't go flying across the floor.

u3uhuzy4.jpg


I'm testing the idea now to see how it works in real world washing. The only detriment I could see is that if your using it on the ground, you could get some splash back on the mit. I'm using it on a homemade bucket caddy that has a platform. It may use more water, but your not filling up a second bucket to begin with.

We'll see how it goes.
 
You, my friend, are a genius. I'm very excited to see how the testing goes.

Keep us posted and A++ for creativity! :dblthumb2:
 
I plan on monitoring the wash bucket bottom. I always check it when done to look for dirt. My goal is wash bucket 100% dirt free. Now there is a little dirt, not much. But if I can get the mit 100% clean before placing it in the soap, it may help.
 
Confused ... Would your method mean the clean water would be running all over the driveway/garage floor because it wasn't contained?
 
A good effort! I may misunderstand, but I'd tend to think that floating the grit out by submerging into water would be more effective than a stream which might push grit into it.

Since the goal seems to be to avoid stirring up the grit that settles to the bottom of the bucket, how about a cone-shaped bottom, so the grit settles to the point of the cone, and you have a little foot-operated valve at the bottom of the cone and you flush out the settled grit before each dunk of the wash mit, with a little blip of the valve?
 
Wonder where you take all these ideas swanicyouth ! Just great .
 
Swan, you'll be a rich man in no time, congrats!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Recently, I started doing a Gary Dean Wash Method (GDWM) type wash using high quality microfiber towels and conventional soap. The idea is, you will never let a dirty (used) portion of a towel touch your paint once your done with it. This works great for rinseless washes.

The problem I found while doing this with conventional soap is by the time your on the 3rd or 4th side of the towel, much of the soap has ran/dripped out of the towel. Your no longer using that foamy soapy towel you began with. The towel is still wet, but the "glide factor" seems gone from the towel. A towel doesn't hold as much soap as a mit. Not to mention, if you want to use something like a Wookie's Fist or a Chenille Wash mit, you would need to buy a dozen or so of them.

I think it would be more cost effective to simply buy more high-quality, thick microfiber towels to use with this wash method.

I thought of the easiest way to do it. Basically, I "lined" the outside of a regular GG with 3/8" fuel line hose so it sits up higher in a 5 gallon bucket. Then, I cut about 2/3 of the bucket away below the level of the GG so the "dirty" rinse water I'm blasting the mit with just flows away. I'm using it with a bucket caddy, so its nowhere near the ground. It looks like this.

How much water does this method use? It seems a bit excessive, so perhaps you could couple this with a water collection system so that the water can then be used to water a lawn or something other than just flowing out of the bucket completely wasted.
 
The Gary Dean method has two distinct advantages. You never touch the paint with dirty media, and it saves a lot of water which is turning into a precious commodity. To be able to safely wash a car and save water is the challenge.

I honestly think the answer to many of our washing challenges is to adopt what a majority of Europeans are using and that is essentially the touchless wash. It's not perfect as nothing is because you still have to rinse, but its as close as you can get to hand wash quality without ever touching the paint.

It seems there are a few companies that have developed a presoak product that is applied with a garden sprayer. It does not harm the LSP, but it leaves the paint almost perfectly clean once its allowed to soak then rinsed off.

It's not an all purpose cleaner or some variation thereof. It's designed from the ground up as a specialized pre wash product that has the advantages of an all purpose cleaner without harming the LSP. They have put a premium on bringing such products to market. I don't know of a single American company that has such an offering outside the convention all purpose cleaner which strips off wax or sealants at high concentrations.

I know of one particular company in Ireland that has perfected the formula to such a level that the others are playing catch up. Seems conventional foaming, rinseless washing, and the 2B method are suddenly being replaced with pre soaking in Europe where water is not restricted.

This is not perfect as I said because you do require a water source in which to rinse, but bringing us closer to a touchless method to wash a car without hurting the LSP is where I think the next breakthrough is going to be.

Most of us apply something to the paint after we wash so that step is not eliminated but to have a car essentially squeaky clean without touching the paint before we apply a post- wash product is exciting news to me.

Eliminating or significantly reducing the need for wash mitts, buckets, foam guns, and lots of MF towels seems like a natural thing. Those who manufacture and sell those things won't be too thrilled but they will have to change as better methods of safely washing cars are developed. It's all good for us.

Incredible thought went into your idea. Now if only you were a chemist!
 
Confused ... Would your method mean the clean water would be running all over the driveway/garage floor because it wasn't contained?

Yep. Out of the bucket and away. Just like the water that rolls off the car. Not in my garage though. Conveniently enough, I wash my car on a slope. The goal is to always clean the mit with clean water, not contain water (or any dirty water in the bucket). Again, I have to spend time testing it to see if it pans out in real life washing.

A good effort! I may misunderstand, but I'd tend to think that floating the grit out by submerging into water would be more effective than a stream which might push grit into it.

Since the goal seems to be to avoid stirring up the grit that settles to the bottom of the bucket, how about a cone-shaped bottom, so the grit settles to the point of the cone, and you have a little foot-operated valve at the bottom of the cone and you flush out the settled grit before each dunk of the wash mit, with a little blip of the valve?

Great idea as well!!! Although a cone shape bucket would want to tip, so you would need a special caddy.

How much water does this method use? It seems a bit excessive, so perhaps you could couple this with a water collection system so that the water can then be used to water a lawn or something other than just flowing out of the bucket completely wasted.[/QUOTE]

The thing is, you are not starting with 5 gallons or so in the bucket. My pressure washer is 1.25 gpm. So if I add up all the time I run the pressure washer to clean the mit, say 20 times a wash, I can figure out how much water I'm using.

Lets say I limit it to 5 gallons. That would mean I could run my pressure washer 240 seconds to rinse (1.25 gpm x 4mins = 5 total gallons). If I rinse the mit, say 20 times that gives me about 12 seconds or so each time to pressure blast the mit clean (20 times a wash) to use a total of 5 gallons "rinse water" each wash.

Not too excessive. Also, I figure you won't be left with a soapy / dirt filled rinse bucket at the end when your done that needs to be cleaned and rinsed. For me, I use at least another gallon or two to clean that. Theoretically, when I'm done, I should only have to dry this grit blaster with a towel or by air, all the "dirt" will already be flushed away.
 
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The Gary Dean method has two distinct advantages. You never touch the paint with dirty media, and it saves a lot of water which is turning into a precious commodity. To be able to safely wash a car and save water is the challenge.

I honestly think the answer to many of our washing challenges is to adopt what a majority of Europeans are using and that is essentially the touchless wash. It's not perfect as nothing is because you still have to rinse, but its as close as you can get to hand wash quality without ever touching the paint.

It seems there are a few companies that have developed a presoak product that is applied with a garden sprayer. It does not harm the LSP, but it leaves the paint almost perfectly clean once its allowed to soak then rinsed off.

It's not an all purpose cleaner or some variation thereof. It's designed from the ground up as a specialized pre wash product that has the advantages of an all purpose cleaner without harming the LSP. They have put a premium on bringing such products to market. I don't know of a single American company that has such an offering outside the convention all purpose cleaner which strips off wax or sealants at high concentrations.

I know of one particular company in Ireland that has perfected the formula to such a level that the others are playing catch up. Seems conventional foaming, rinseless washing, and the 2B method are suddenly being replaced with pre soaking in Europe where water is not restricted.

This is not perfect as I said because you do require a water source in which to rinse, but bringing us closer to a touchless method to wash a car without hurting the LSP is where I think the next breakthrough is going to be.


That is a great idea. I'm wondering if there is something in it the EPA doesn't like here. I though of using 1Z Bug Pre-Wash Spray or PB's Bug Squash on the whole car as a pre- wash, since they are supposed to be LSP safe, but that would add up fast $$$. I still think (and practice) foaming, dwell, and rinse. I do think it helps.

I did some eye ball testing using a hose and my pressure washer. I can tell you using a pressure washer is key, as it removes A LOT of the dirt a regular hose doesn't touch. You can see the dirt come of the wheels and paint that the hose wouldn't remove. And, my pressure washer is only 1600 gpm.

The problem I have with the GDWM for conventional washes / soap is the towel doesn't stay "wet" enough for me after the first or second side of the towel is up. I want the towel to be dripping, like I just pulled it out of a soapy bucket. It does have it's advantages. For rinseless washes, I always make sure the panel is soaked with a waterless wash product, so its not as big of a concern. Of course, I could just always use more towels and not use all the sides.
 
Swanic, the more threads you post, the more respect I have for you. The thought and ingenuity that goes into your threads are very much appreciated.

Of course, I could just always use more towels and not use all the sides.

With that said, as you say above, I'm thinking using more mf towels would be the easiest thing to do while maintaining safe washing.

What is the reason you didn't just go with putting more microfibers into the wash bucket?
 
I agree that our American environmental standards may indeed be the issue with bringing such products to market. However anything that's chemically possible should be pursued that will meet those requirements. I have more faith in chemistry than I do the government.

Until that day the GD method is without a doubt the safest way to wash a car at this time. I'm not referring to his rinseless wash video, but the one using conventional soap and foam gun.

The next safest way that I've seen to wash a car is by the guy who started the AMMO products. His using a foam gun to apply a stream if water just ahead of his wash mitt works great. I've tried it a few times and it takes practice but once you get the technique down it really works and is a sound method. You do have to be careful not to bang the foam gun or hose on your car as you are sweeping it just ahead of the wash mitt.

I think the perfect wash tool would be a combination foam appliance/wash pad made from natural wool such as the Carpro mitt. Instead of a wooden broom stick style handle,it would have a rubber one. It could apply a foam stream just ahead of the wash pad. You would dunk it in a rinse bucket just as you would a mitt before going to the next panel. It would save your back as well as being easier to wash SUVs. I've seen these devices at the local do it yourself car wash place however they are heavy, and crude but the idea is the same.

A modified high pressure rubber foam canon lance that also has a built in wash mitt is what I have in mind.
 
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Some will just use 1 bucket and rinse with hose, others may add a third bucket.

To reduce general water usage, use a pressure washer. It will clean and rinse better with less water.

The problem is the wash process is just one aspect of the entire process that includes drying, applying detail sprays, waxing, etc. At least in the wash process, the media is usually wet so if the quest is to reduce marring then the rest of the process needs even more scrutiny.
 
Who knew washing a car was so darn complicated?




:detailer:
 
Seems like a good idea but not for the detailer who does it for a living huge waste of water and most areas you can't let the water go down the storm drain. I could never use this I would get fined. The 2 bucket method has works great. The amount of water your using to rinse the mitt is a lot after a whole car.
 
I was wondering if anyone else did this? I made something very similar for pressure washing buffing pads only I cut out about half way around the circumference of the bottom so that I didn't soak my feet. I also cut a bowl in half that was about the same diameter as the bucket and zip tied it to the bottom to sort of direct some of the water out of the bottom. I put it all together with zip ties but it looks nothing as good as yours lol. It works pretty good though surprisingly.
 
I was wondering if anyone else did this? I made something very similar for pressure washing buffing pads only I cut out about half way around the circumference of the bottom so that I didn't soak my feet. I also cut a bowl in half that was about the same diameter as the bucket and zip tied it to the bottom to sort of direct some of the water out of the bottom. I put it all together with zip ties but it looks nothing as good as yours lol. It works pretty good though surprisingly.

I'm expecting it to work well. I spent a lot of time making it and measured and cut everything as perfect as I could. I'll be testing it next week. Its actually pretty tight and solid.

I plan on testing it by checking the wash bucket bottom when I'm done. Hopefully bottom of wash bucket will be pretty close to dirt free.
 
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