*NEW* BLACKFIRE Crystal Coat Paint Coating!

Nick@Autogeek said:
If you're not happy with the quality of the finish after a year, then you need to re-evaluate how you're maintaining the finish once you've coated it.
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Thanks for the note; I always found it interesting when folks note that you'll have to polish a coated car "well before" the claimed durability end-date. I always thought, "What's the point of a coating if you have to polish it off every year?"

Desertnate said:
Based on what you stated above, when drying, would it be advisable NOT to use a drying aid or would using a product from the same family like the WW or QD be OK? I don't really have an issue with avoiding toppers, but drying aides do make the process a little easier and safer.
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I wonder if non-contact forms of drying (like a blower) would be best and then maybe use something like D114 (waterless dilution), Final Inspection or PB's Spray & Wipe to help dry with a towel if you must?
 
Isewake said:
I guess what I was wanting to know was how much do you have to polish. Can any kind of polish be used? Could it be a finishing polish or does it need more cut? Will one pass with a DA be enough? Does the pad have to have some cut to it? Can it be like a LC CCS black? Sorry for the questions. I have only used wax or sealant (Sonax PNS) so I have used Prep All to prep the paint. Would like to do this coating but want to make sure I know what to expect on the end of life side of it.
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I just removed an SIo2 based coating from my Touareg this weekend. It took several passes with Menzerna FG400 with Uber Orange (medium cut) pad. It really wasn't bad to remove. I am not sure if BlackFire would need more or less, but after a year depending on how you care for your paint you might need to remove imperfections anyways. Unfortunately the body shop working on my Touareg took aweful care of it when it was there for 2 weeks.

I will be reapplying another coating in a few weeks. I will finish out my paint with Reflect. Then clean the paint prior to application with a paint prep fluid (Blackfire offers it in the kit).

You might want to post a closeup pic of your paint and we can suggest what might be needed.
 
Isewake said:
I guess what I was wanting to know was how much do you have to polish. Can any kind of polish be used? Could it be a finishing polish or does it need more cut? Will one pass with a DA be enough? Does the pad have to have some cut to it? Can it be like a LC CCS black? Sorry for the questions. I have only used wax or sealant (Sonax PNS) so I have used Prep All to prep the paint. Would like to do this coating but want to make sure I know what to expect on the end of life side of it.
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I think I can humbly add something here. If the coating is not fully cured yet, like when you make a mistake afterwards and manage to scratch it (I already dit it), LC CCS black or something similar along with a less abrasive polish will do it. I managed to remove it with Flex, Menz 4000 and black hybrid.
When the coating is old, the procedure would be similar to removing a mild swirled car, but there too many variables, like coating brand, maintenance, if it was applied thick or shallow, if the paint is hard, medium or soft, if it is quartz or ceramic based, the thickness of the clearcoat prior the application, etc, only a spot test will tell you for sure. Therefore, always the less abrasive method first.
 
RPM_BR said:
I think I can humbly add something here. If the coating is not fully cured yet, like when you make a mistake afterwards and manage to scratch it (I already dit it), LC CCS black or something similar along with a less abrasive polish will do it. I managed to remove it with Flex, Menz 4000 and black hybrid.
When the coating is old, the procedure would be similar to removing a mild swirled car, but there too many variables, like coating brand, maintenance, if it was applied thick or shallow, if the paint is hard, medium or soft, if it is quartz or ceramic based, the thickness of the clearcoat prior the application, etc, only a spot test will tell you for sure. Therefore, always the less abrasive method first.
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Sounds like its easier to just use a sealant.
 
Isewake said:
Sounds like its easier to just use a sealant.
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I use to say the same thing, "stick with a sealer".
Well now that I've tried a coating,the Blackfire Coating I have changed my mind about it.

IMHO the Wolfgang Glossy Paint Sealant gave me the best shine and durability but doesn't come close to the shine as of the coating.
My 2014 Mirage looks like it has a 10k paint job on it.

As a professional detailer I must take care of my car because it's seen by many people.
My guys perform a Rinseless Wash on it daily using ONR so I have a much better chance in avoiding paint defects so I'm not too concerned about having to Polish it out in a year, if I have to so be it. :dblthumb2:
 
There was a comment made that this product is similar to C1. I read somewhere not to use C1 on a single stage paint. Is this product ok on single stage paint?
Also curious if anyone has used C1 on on a single stage paint, and if so what were the result?
 
I apologize if this was asked already but can I use crystal coat over paint protection film, if not, what would you recommend to go over the film if I seal the rest of the vehicle with crystal coat, thanks guys!
 
I had the chance to do the nose of a new chevy suburban today with this product. I will say like others have the bottle is a little bit of a chore to work with but the product is very very easy. I would say you should use lights to see the high spots but all in all its a super nice product to work with. Make sure you have lots of microfiber ready for work as well.

I am a sucker for black paint and it looks great outside with no issues. Lets see how it protects if 2 years is the number I will be happy for sure.

Buffed paint, eraser, and coating, easy process.....:buffing::props:
 
All I can Say Is This is very easy to work with and I will use it as my staple here. I like the gloss, easy application, and water sheeting. I hope I get at least a year out of it on my DD, if so it's worth every penny.:dblthumb2:
 
DaveT435 said:
There was a comment made that this product is similar to C1. I read somewhere not to use C1 on a single stage paint. Is this product ok on single stage paint?
Also curious if anyone has used C1 on on a single stage paint, and if so what were the result?
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No issues with single stage paint. :dblthumb2:

It won't last as long as it would on clear coat (single stage is very porous), but it will still last 1 year plus.

VBPXer said:
I apologize if this was asked already but can I use crystal coat over paint protection film, if not, what would you recommend to go over the film if I seal the rest of the vehicle with crystal coat, thanks guys!
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For clear bras and paint protection film I would recommend CRYSTAL SEAL by BLACKFIRE. This clear polymer will provide UV protection while minimizing dirt accumulation.

Crystal Coat is not recommended for clear bras and paint protection film.
 
Thanks Nick! I just got my Crystal coat yesterday with a few other goodies including the new Flex PE-8 kit. I have a 2008 E90 M3 that is pretty much ready to be coated so I will try to post a quick review once I am done, this will be my first coating so hope all goes well, thanks again!
 
Does anybody know off hand know the shelf life of this product once the bottle is opened?

I was using CQuartz UK last summer, and found out before attempting to use it for this season from the U.S. Company site that even though the one year expiration date hasn't come yet, once I open the bottle, the coating protection properties greatly diminishes over time; in fact, some of the professional users on their site forum said I should toss the bottle six months after I open it.
 
Wyle E Coyote said:
Does anybody know off hand know the shelf life of this product once the bottle is opened?

I was using CQuartz UK last summer, and found out before attempting to use it for this season from the U.S. Company site that even though the one year expiration date hasn't come yet, once I open the bottle, the coating protection properties greatly diminishes over time; in fact, some of the professional users on their site forum said I should toss the bottle six months after I open it.
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We went with a different cap design for this product to ensure a long shelf life. It's not going to expire any time soon. :dblthumb2:
 
Nick, when you mention paint protection film, are you including OEM film along with the aftermarket stuff? I'm curious about whether this would be recommended over the film that comes on some of the newer Nissans at the trailing, lower edge of the doors and at the front of the rear fender flares.
 
andygold said:
Nick, when you mention paint protection film, are you including OEM film along with the aftermarket stuff? I'm curious about whether this would be recommended over the film that comes on some of the newer Nissans at the trailing, lower edge of the doors and at the front of the rear fender flares.
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Any kind of PPF (paint protection film) in general, whether it's installed from the factory or an aftermarket supplier.
 
Nick@Autogeek said:
Any kind of PPF (paint protection film) in general, whether it's installed from the factory or an aftermarket supplier.
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Thanks! Wasn't sure if film is generic in nature, or if auto manufacturers have some proprietary film or application methods. Thanks for clearing that up!
 
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