New Car - First Wax Questions.

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Mitch Master T

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Hi,

I just bought a new car (2014), and I'm not sure what steps to take to protect the paint. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

The paint is black and it is water based, and a lot of people complain that this particular car has weak paint. The paint is in great condition at the moment though, and there is no swirling or scratches. However, my car can not be garaged and I live in Canada so that means snow and salt in the winter

My plan is to wash the car with Meguiars gold class car wash, and clean the rims and tires and dry it.

Then I will claybar it with meguiars smooth surface clay kit.

I was wondering if polishing the car is necessary though. The paint already looks pretty good, and I think that there is no need to use abrasive paint cleaners. If you guys think its necessary, I will have to polish the car by hand (no rotary), and any recommendations on products and techniques to use would be great.

Lastly, I am going to wax the car. I wanted to get my hands on some collinite 915 or p21s wax but none of my local stores seem to have it. I'm in a bit of a rush so I was wondering if you could recommend some substitutes. Ideally the protection would last around 6 months.

Lastly for quick touch ups for bugs and road tar, what should I use?

Thanks for your time!
 
Because it ia a new car my choise it will be:
A Glaze No 7 from Meguiars and a sealent like Sintetic sealent 2.0 from Meguiars.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
This article by Mike Phillips helped me tremendously when trying to figure out what to do with my new car to help protect the paint:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-detail-your-brand-new-car-mike-phillips.html


I started with the "baggie test" and then did the following (paint was in good shape):

1. 2 bucket wash with microfiber mitt and Blackfire Wet Diamond shampoo
2. clayed the car with Megs clay kit (easier than I thought
3. Blackfire gloss enhancing polish
4. Blackfire Wet Diamond all finish paint protection (2 layers)
5. Blackfire Crystal seal
6. Blackfire Total Eclipse tire shine
then cleaned the interior and sealed with Ultima Interior Guard Plus
7. Sonax glass cleaner on inside and exterior

New microfiber towels of various kinds used to apply/remove products/dry) I did this all by hand. As to the bug/tar stuff, I haven't had any tar, but for bugs, I spray some QD over the paint and on a MF towel, then gently wipe it off. I do it as soon as I notice them. So far, so good. I'm a complete newbie to this stuff, so just sharing what I did. There are many great products out there, so your choices in products will most likely vary depending on your needs. Have fun with your new ride! :)
 
Thanks for the replies, they were helpful. The guide you linked is also very nice.

I think i'll avoid using Iron X and go right to the clay bar though. So the next step is correcting with polishes and or compounds. These include glaze 7 and the blackfire products.

I don't think I can get my hands on blackfire's stuff soon so I may try glaze 7. Other options would be Deep Crystal 1 and 2 or ultimate polish? And can these be used by hand, or is it pointless.

Then after I would like to use a wax rather then a sealant.

Thanks.
 
Mitch Master T said:
Thanks for the replies, they were helpful. The guide you linked is also very nice.

I think i'll avoid using Iron X and go right to the clay bar though. So the next step is correcting with polishes and or compounds. These include glaze 7 and the blackfire products.

I don't think I can get my hands on blackfire's stuff soon so I may try glaze 7. Other options would be Deep Crystal 1 and 2 or ultimate polish? And can these be used by hand, or is it pointless.

Then after I would like to use a wax rather then a sealant.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Glaze 7 has no abrasives, it is a pure polish that will hide any imperfections but the results are just temporary. It will last a few days, possibly up to a week, ultimate polish might be a better choice. As for a good wax that's widely available, I like meguiars ultimate wax, it's a synthetic wax with pretty good durability. If you are looking for a carnauba that's widely available, try meguiars gold class.
 
If the paint is in good shape and you need something durable to last the winter, I'd recommend the Klasse twins...All-In-One, and Sealant Glaze. AIO goes on first followed by SG. I'm not sure what the Canadian availability is like, but it seems to be available almost anywhere.
 
I'd rather not use an abrasive polish. Glaze 7 seems like a good choice after reading up on it. So all I need to do is wash claybar glaze 7 by hand and then wax right?
 
my choice , which I just got 2 new vehicles myself - a coating is the best & longest protection . you said u new car is in pretty much defect free - keep it that way with a coating . sure u can scratch and swirl up the coating over time but when it comes down to correcting it u wont be touching u paint hardly . save your cc . uself in Canada and myself in Wisconsin , u bet snow and road salt . opticoat , cquartz uk , dp , and a host of other brands .
 
Mitch Master T said:
I'd rather not use an abrasive polish. Glaze 7 seems like a good choice after reading up on it. So all I need to do is wash claybar glaze 7 by hand and then wax right?
Click to expand...


Well, it seems like you already know what you want to do.

Check for marring after claybar, if your car is black with solf clear im sure it will marr a bit, THEN you need to polish anyway, so might as well plan on it.
 
Thanks for the heads up on marring the paint.
I'm going to give it a go tomorrow and I'll post some pics when I'm done.
 
You seems to have made up your mind already so I am not sure why you are asking.

But if it were my car, here are the steps I would take:

1. Wash it using 2 bucket method after a power rinse and a snow foam coat and rinse.

2. Clay it using fine grade nanoskin sponge or mitt. You can also use clay but that takes longer... up to you.

3. Remove any defects in the paint using either a compound if you have holograms of deep scratches or swirls OR a polish if you don't.

4. Assuming you had heavy defects (most new cars do), follow by a polish to bring out the gloss after the compound.

5. Apply a coating like Opti-Coat 2.0 for protection that will last for years. Opti-Coat is a permanent protection, if you take care of the car your paint will have the best protection it can possibly have.

6. You can maintain the car with spray waxes or waxes afterwards if you like.
 
If I purchased a new car I would make it swirl free, if it isn't already, have a clear bra applied to the front end areas and put a coating on it. I wouldn't seal it or wax it a couple times a year. I'd like to get it as perfect as possible and protect and maintain that as long as possible.
 
Very similar to Calendyr but the method I would recommend is:

1) Wash
2) Iron-x it
3) Nanoskin Auto Scrub with fine pad
4) Polish with a fine grade polish that leaves little to no reside when wiped. This does two things, super cleans the paint and does a light correction job on scratches or any other defects. I've had great success with Gtechniq P2 and have read Optimum Finish Polish is similar.
5) Give the paint a 15% IPA wipe (and distilled water) or you can buy a custom formula like Gtechniq Panel Wipe that does evaporate very slowly and does a great job cleaning.
6) Opti-coat 2.0 (on a warm day between 65degrees and 85 degrees but be aware the warmer the quicker the flashing)
7) Don't drive the car for 48 hrs, then wipe with a microfiber and a distilled water mist to clean any dust off
8) Then apply a second coating of Opti-coat 2.0., contrary to popular belief you can layer Opti-Coat 2.0 but it has to be with in a certain time window after 12 hrs and before 30 days.

I would even consider after 30 days (you have to let Opti-Coat breathe to let all water out of the formula for it to become super hard) applying a sacrificial layer of Klasse or Collinite for winter.
 
Also I wish i could go back and do it right the first time. Many people have suggested coating your car, and I could not have agreed more. My paint is on the soft side and after a year of PROPPER maintenance I still have very fine scratches. Applying a coating will greatly minimize the chances of that happening since they are harder then most clear coats. Also maintainig your car and keeping it clean will be much easier.

Just something to consider...
 
Your #7 and wax combo won't last past two weeks my friend. At leaste get collinite 845.....don't use the #7. It's a glaze which means no added protection.

Better yet get some 22ple VX1 Pro Glass Coating. It's as easy as waxing a car and the results speak for themselves. I'd get the smallest bottle since it requires so little per car.
 
Yeah I agree, the #7 won't last. I'd go with the Klasse twins especially since your doing it by hand. Or with Collinite.

PS: Polishing by hand = insanity. Waste of time.
 
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