New Car - Nubie detailer -what do I need?

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bcat

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Hi all.
I'm from Central New York and took delivery of a 2019 Hyundai Ioniq Electric Limited-trim package last week. The car is silver metalic with "chrome" and black plastic trim and the wheels are silver and black alloy.

This is our first ever new car (always bought used before) and I want to keep this show room perfect. I've been lurking in the forums here and have assembled a "kit" for taking care of the car. I was hoping to get some feedback on what I've already bought and what else I might need.

We have an attached, unheated garage to keep the car in, and our area doesn't have any problem with water restrictions - just plenty of "problems" with heavy salt and sand applied to the roads in the winter (we get over 100 inches of snow a year.

This is what I have so far:
32 oz bottle of ONR wash and wax (expecting to use to wash, use as a detailer and a clay lube)
Turtle Wax Seal and Shine
Black Magic Tire and Wet
Sprayway Glass Cleaner
Meguier's Rich Leather 3 in 1 for the heated seats and steering wheel
Mother's Speed Clay 2
4 new empty spray bottles
2 buckets
3 Rag Co Standard Blue Waffle Weave microfiber towels (for the glass and screens)
1 Chemical Guy premium drying towel with silk edges
A five finger microfiber noodle wash mitt for the tires
A dozen microfiber towels for washing the interior and exterior that I'm comfortable with ( not asking for guidance on these, seems like a topic that provokes flames)
Various small, soft brushes
Magic Eraser
ArmourAll 2.5 gallon Wet/Dry Vacuum

My Questions
1. What else should I get? Should I reconsider anything I did get?
2. What should I use to protect/condition the very matte, black interior, textured finishes? I don't want to use anything that will add any degree of gloss.
3. How do I care for the exterior black and chrome trim? Do I treat it just like the paint -- ONR, clay, Seal and Shine?
4 What do I need to care for the silver and black alloy wheels?
5. Is there any special kind of wiper fluid I should use other than the standard blue stuff with antifreeze?
6. Is smearing shaving cream on the inside of the windows to prevent fogging really a recommended thing?
7 Is Rain-X or similar needed for the exterior windshield.
8 Do I need a dedicated carpet cleaning product or is wiping it down with microfiber and ONR OK?

Am I relying on ONR too much?

I am new to this but eager to learn from all of you and to benefit from the impressive real world experiences of the forum membership.
 
Most of your products are over the counter products and they are good to start with. Some products like Black Magic and Turtle Wax are not the best quality. Invisible Glass would be a better choice for a glass cleaner. All purpose cleaners will work on carpets but you should really use a cleaner that is specifically formulated for fabrics. Go ahead and begin your journey into detailing. Eventually you will want to up your game and try different, higher quality products.
 
Congrats on the new car! You’ve got a decent array of products to start with. Skip the clay unless you are thinking of buying a polisher. I would buy some Iron-X and decontaminate before applying the TWSS. Even new cars get iron contamination.

Read lots of threads here on the “best” products. There will be many different “best” products, but the ones that are discussed the most are usually good bets. The TWSS should be fine for the wheels. Skip the shaving cream. I’ve never heard of this tip and can’t see it helping. I’ve never found any product that really helps with fog and I’ve tried a few.
 
If you can swing it, take Mike,s class in NE Pennsylvania by Bethlehem in Oct. you will learn tons. There are so many great products available, do you homework n dive in. Collinite makes a number of products to protect he vehicle in winter(but do follow the application directions, thin,thin,thin
 
UncleDavy
The Black Magic is something my husband had stashed away and I wasn't certain about it, so thanks for confirming my suspicions.
 
rlmccarty2000 The shaving cream thing is all over YouTube, apparently, it is supposed to work on bathroom mirrors as well. I sounded to me like it would be a streaky mess on a windshield, so I'm glad to know that this is not in fact a "pro" tip. Also thanks for the Iron-X suggestion.
 
Markymapo I had not looked at Collinite products before your suggestion. Is Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax what you were referring to? Have you found this type of wax to be better than the "ceramic" wax and sealants for winter protection?
 
UncleDavy said:
Most of your products are over the counter products and they are good to start with. Some products like Black Magic and Turtle Wax are not the best quality. Invisible Glass would be a better choice for a glass cleaner. All purpose cleaners will work on carpets but you should really use a cleaner that is specifically formulated for fabrics. Go ahead and begin your journey into detailing. Eventually you will want to up your game and try different, higher quality products.
Click to expand...

Have you read the reviews on Turtle Wax Seal and Shine? Turtle Wax has finally come up with a winner imo.
 
Don't use that magic erasure on your new car unless you're sure you know what you're doing. Melamine is like a fine sandpaper, Everything on your new car has some type of protectant/sealant on it. Leave it new as long as you can.

Nothing on your list shows any inclination to polish. Do what you need to protect from the salt (I don't live in a salted area). When the weather is clear, I would try some Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer. Wipe it on at least once a month as you're drying after washing. It's easy and really good stuff if you're just maintaining. It maybe called a detailer. But, it holds up well for a month as a sealant. And like I said, super easy to apply. Which is big, since easy means it gets used.

Oh, and the ONR, you can use it to clean/wipe down the inside. It works well. I would get some Optimum Protectant to go with it. Optimum products work best when only used with other Optimum products - in my experience. Maybe some Optimum Power Clean when a little more umph is needed. You can use it diluted by itself or throw a little into the ONR. Three very good products.

I just noticed, you have the ONR with wax. I would get some regular ONR to go with it.
 
If you don't love the drying towel I'd recommend griots PFM. Basically if your drying car lightly and towel is not removing water in one wipe get these.... f'ing magical.

Agreed get some iron X or similar. Meguiars Ultimate wheel cleaner will do same if you want OTC.

For protection TW seal and shine is nice product for price. I personally prefer sealants over wax for protection. A coating would be better. Look into car pros Lite or Gyeon Cancoat for a easy to use starter coating.

I'd toss the black magic my self and recommend a tire coating with your winters. Car pros perl is another good product for Plastics, Rubbers and trim.

I'd recommend good tools.
By some wheel woolies for rims,
tuff shine tire brush for tires,
good wash media to touch car ( I like one bucket with soap and 10 MF chenille mitts. Do a section top to bottom and then get new mitt)
Good MF glass towels for windows (I like griots)
A must for interiors is meguiars interior quick detailer

And most of all enjoy!




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
ducksfan said:
Don't use that magic erasure on your new car unless you're sure you know what you're doing. Melamine is like a fine sandpaper, Everything on your new car has some type of protectant/sealant on it. Leave it new as long as you can.


Oh, and the ONR, you can use it to clean/wipe down the inside. It works well. I would get some Optimum Protectant to go with it. Optimum products work best when only used with other Optimum products - in my experience. Maybe some Optimum Power Clean when a little more umph is needed. You can use it diluted by itself or throw a little into the ONR. Three very good products.

I just noticed, you have the ONR with wax. I would get some regular ONR to go with it.
Click to expand...

I've seen a lot of discussion on using the magic eraser in the inside glass and planned to use it when the windows were not coming clean with the glass cleaner and the mf towels. Is that the proper usage or is this another YouTube not so wonderful "tip"? Does the glass have a sealant or special coating on it from the factory?

RE the ONR how do decide what is good for plain ONR and what is good for ONR with wax?
 
Your situation is typical of what many face in the upper Midwest and colder climes in winter months.
Sometimes horrible road conditions, a vehicle that is bought to be used, not stored and looked at, and the mention of an unheated garage, which might mean long periods of time where you cannot do a thing as far as washes, and other detailing tasks.

Some things can be done, others perhaps can't.

Some type of safe heating system for the garage would be one plan, but can be costly if done right. Yes, I've used things like propane fired Torpedos, and while they can help raise the temps in a garage to where a wipe down, and possibly other detailing tasks can be performed, they can also be dangerous.

One, they are not vented, meaning carbon monoxide, and also exhausting oxygen supply in the garage.

If a proper heater is not an option, my next plan, and would probably be my personal choice no matter what, would be a durable Paint Coating. I don't think anyone would debate the durability and protection offered of a good Coating product versus lesser waxes and sealants. If not a coating, then has been mentioned, look towards the most durable more conventional products that can be had.

The bottom line is getting as much protection within your means and proficiency.

I see that Collinite has been mentioned as a protectant, and yes, that might be my second option and choice, and often was my personal choice for many years before the advent of Coatings.

While Collinite #845 Insulator Wax is an outstanding protectant hybrid Sealant-Wax, it is not Collinite's most durable product. That title goes to Collinite #476 Super DoubleCoat Paste Wax.

Yes, it is harder to apply and remove versus #845, but the effort and time is worth it. It must be applied as thin as possible, a dampened Foam Applicator would be the best choice, and then do the swipe test to find when it's optimal to remove.

There may be some other suggestions as to a more "conventional", yet durable paint protectant. While I have such on hand myself, I've never had the chance to use it yet on a vehicle, and some may suggest it. That product is Sonax Polymer Net Shield. (PNS it is usually called here)

It comes in an Aerosol Can, and as Mike Phillips once stated, that it was the closest thing to a Coating in his opinion.

As for Rain-X, or other windshield products, yes use them, but as I've found, when things turn icy, and with wicked ice storms, using any such products won't mean the ice is going to somehow magically just fall off the glass.

That still, time must be allowed for vehicle warm up with the defrosters set to high if you're caught with the vehicle outside during such weather events. Then out comes the ole Ice Scraper and Brush.

That happened to my Tahoe 2 winters ago in Wisconsin, the entire vehicle was one complete sheet of ice, couldn't even get in it! All Doors were totally iced shut! Even all the seams. Like somebody sprayed it down with a hose in sub-freezing temps.

As for any outside Vinyl-Plastic Trim, one product that works very well, and is very easy to use, is Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant (WETS) Also great on Rubber Trim, Weatherstripping also.
 
As for Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, I myself have only used it for one purpose. And that is for cleaning the Diamond Stylus on my ZYX Airy 3X Moving Coil Phono Cartridge. This Cartridge lists out at $3,000.

Magic Eraser is an ultra hard Melamine Foam, with a latticework of millions of little fingers-strands.
No, you don't want to drag such a product across a Stylus, as you'll rip the Diamond Stylus right out!

I mearly "dunk" the stylus into a small cube a few times, via the Cueing Lever on the Tonearm is all. It's hard enough to scrape-rid the Stylus of all cruds and films, yet not as hard as a Diamond to cause it any harm. Liquid cleaners are not recommend on this Cartridge, due to its hollow Boron Cantilever which any liquids can wick up into the Cantilever via capillary action and possibly harm the Cantilever Suspension Materials.
 
Hello, Syracuse native here (Marcellus). I recommend looking eastward to Utica's Collinite (don’t have to go to zUtica, pick it up here) for strong winter protection. Maybe TW SNS does well on top of it? That could be a very resistant combo if they play nicely.

As far as garage in the winter, my attached garage in Pittsburgh stays warm enough most of the time (above freezing to be able to do Rinseless and waterless washes in the winter. ONR can do that for you. It’s pretty cool to drive out of your garage in winter with a clean, shiny car... doesn’t stay that way long but definitely will make people check you out during the first part of the day.
 
Thank you for your very thoughtful reply.

There are weeks at a time when it is at or below zero for a week at a time when everyone's car is a mess and even thinking about washing makes the doors an locks freeze. So my expectations about the car's appearance in winter is realistic. But we do get days in the low to mid-forties when everyone flocks to the do-it-yourself car wash to hose off the salt on and under the car with some warm soap and water. Heating my garage is not an option (and local lore has it that cars corrode faster in heated garages because the slush and ice doesn't stay frozen and in a less active state.) I'm hoping that if my car goes into winter in good enough shape that in my garage (and out of the wind) on warmish days waterless or rinse free care along with massive amounts of DYI car wash water to flush on warm winter days will get me through OK.

With the new car purchase I don't think I can afford a professionally applied coating, so I think between now and Mid October or so I'm going to have to do my research and then make an honest assessment of what level of protection I can achieve given my budget and my skill level.

My new car is all electric - no tail pipe, no oil or gas emissions of any kind and I can pre-condition the car and turn on the heater, defroster remotely with the phone app so I'm hoping that I won't have to dip into my vast collection of ice scrapers as much as before.

MarkD51 said:
Your situation is typical of what many face in the upper Midwest and colder climes in winter months.
Sometimes horrible road conditions, a vehicle that is bought to be used, not stored and looked at, and the mention of an unheated garage, which might mean long periods of time where you cannot do a thing as far as washes, and other detailing tasks.

Some things can be done, others perhaps can't.

Some type of safe heating system for the garage would be one plan, but can be costly if done right. Yes, I've used things like propane fired Torpedos, and while they can help raise the temps in a garage to where a wipe down, and possibly other detailing tasks can be performed, they can also be dangerous.

One, they are not vented, meaning carbon monoxide, and also exhausting oxygen supply in the garage.

If a proper heater is not an option, my next plan, and would probably be my personal choice no matter what, would be a durable Paint Coating. I don't think anyone would debate the durability and protection offered of a good Coating product versus lesser waxes and sealants. If not a coating, then has been mentioned, look towards the most durable more conventional products that can be had.

The bottom line is getting as much protection within your means and proficiency.

I see that Collinite has been mentioned as a protectant, and yes, that might be my second option and choice, and often was my personal choice for many years before the advent of Coatings.

While Collinite #845 Insulator Wax is an outstanding protectant hybrid Sealant-Wax, it is not Collinite's most durable product. That title goes to Collinite #476 Super DoubleCoat Paste Wax.

Yes, it is harder to apply and remove versus #845, but the effort and time is worth it. It must be applied as thin as possible, a dampened Foam Applicator would be the best choice, and then do the swipe test to find when it's optimal to remove.

There may be some other suggestions as to a more "conventional", yet durable paint protectant. While I have such on hand myself, I've never had the chance to use it yet on a vehicle, and some may suggest it. That product is Sonax Polymer Net Shield. (PNS it is usually called here)

It comes in an Aerosol Can, and as Mike Phillips once stated, that it was the closest thing to a Coating in his opinion.

As for Rain-X, or other windshield products, yes use them, but as I've found, when things turn icy, and with wicked ice storms, using any such products won't mean the ice is going to somehow magically just fall off the glass.

That still, time must be allowed for vehicle warm up with the defrosters set to high if you're caught with the vehicle outside during such weather events. Then out comes the ole Ice Scraper and Brush.

That happened to my Tahoe 2 winters ago in Wisconsin, the entire vehicle was one complete sheet of ice, couldn't even get in it! All Doors were totally iced shut! Even all the seams. Like somebody sprayed it down with a hose in sub-freezing temps.

As for any outside Vinyl-Plastic Trim, one product that works very well, and is very easy to use, is Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant (WETS) Also great on Rubber Trim, Weatherstripping also.
Click to expand...
 
So,you are suggesting that to put my package of magic erasers to good use I should tell my husband I need to buy lots things that contain diamonds--jewelry, audiophile turntables, drill tips, etc.?:laughing:
OK I'll chuck the Magic erasers.

MarkD51 said:
As for Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, I myself have only used it for one purpose. And that is for cleaning the Diamond Stylus on my ZYX Airy 3X Moving Coil Phono Cartridge. This Cartridge lists out at $3,000.

Magic Eraser is an ultra hard Melamine Foam, with a latticework of millions of little fingers-strands.
No, you don't want to drag such a product across a Stylus, as you'll rip the Diamond Stylus right out!

I mearly "dunk" the stylus into a small cube a few times, via the Cueing Lever on the Tonearm is all. It's hard enough to scrape-rid the Stylus of all cruds and films, yet not as hard as a Diamond to cause it any harm. Liquid cleaners are not recommend on this Cartridge, due to its hollow Boron Cantilever which any liquids can wick up into the Cantilever via capillary action and possibly harm the Cantilever Suspension Materials.
Click to expand...
 
Greetings from the Town of Salina. They are actually tapping into the old salt beds at the end of Onondaga Lake and mixing up a slurry of brine an blue dye and who knows what to spray/spread on the roads. It works pretty good on the roads, but makes for very heavy end of the driveway after the plow has come conditions.

Good to hear about the rinseless and waterless working in your garage; I was hoping it would. Collinite is from Utica, huh. Will look into it since you and other Sr. members here have recommended it.

acuRAS82 said:
Hello, Syracuse native here (Marcellus). I recommend looking eastward to Utica's Collinite (don’t have to go to zUtica, pick it up here) for strong winter protection. Maybe TW SNS does well on top of it? That could be a very resistant combo if they play nicely.

As far as garage in the winter, my attached garage in Pittsburgh stays warm enough most of the time (above freezing to be able to do Rinseless and waterless washes in the winter. ONR can do that for you. It’s pretty cool to drive out of your garage in winter with a clean, shiny car... doesn’t stay that way long but definitely will make people check you out during the first part of the day.
Click to expand...
 
I will second the recommendations for Collinite.

It's my Go-to LSP. 476s lasts the longest, and it really isn't hard to apply if you can read and follow directions. Apply Thin, one panel at a time (or two smaller panels), let haze a bit, and remove.

You will get at least 6 months from 476 alone.
 
The Magic Eraser does have its place in detailing but I would not recommend it for a brand new car. On older cars it is very useful in removing old wax residue from black trim. It can also be used for polishing scratches under door handles. For interior glass I would definitely recommend Zap Cloth. It is a superb product. It cleans the haze on interior glass without streaks and without chemicals.
 
bcat said:
I've seen a lot of discussion on using the magic eraser in the inside glass and planned to use it when the windows were not coming clean with the glass cleaner and the mf towels. Is that the proper usage or is this another YouTube not so wonderful "tip"? Does the glass have a sealant or special coating on it from the factory?

RE the ONR how do decide what is good for plain ONR and what is good for ONR with wax?
Click to expand...

Well, others have weighed in on the magic erasure. I've only used it on older cars to clean up oxidized rubber and stuff like heal marks on plastic door thresholds. I would be leary of using it on glass and wouldn't try it on new glass for the first try. It has it's place. But I wouldn't think a newer car is that place.

I like regular ONR. If I want to add wax, I use optimum car wax with it. You would think the end results would be the same. But, to me, ONRWW leaves a duller look.

I know ONRWW will build a film. So, I would only use ONR to wipe down an interior.
 
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