new car orange peel

The BC in my jambs is also very thin

If the CC is thin on the jambs....why would the BC thickness match the exterior panels (hood, doors) of the vehicle

i've thought about this before, as the door jamb thing is passed about quite often.

apparently the primer and color coats are more of a black/white thing (no pun) in terms of functional coverage than clear. meaning, you either have enough primer and then base for it to work properly/look right....or not. so that would lead me to believe that the sub-clear layers are somewhat similar between jambs and exterior panels.

clear is different. it needs to be sprayed properly, of course...but as far as thickness, it can be sprayed thin for basic protection of the base coat and gloss, "basic coverage"....or thicker for protection (UV, physical, etc).
 
i've thought about this before, as the door jamb thing is passed about quite often.

apparently the primer and color coats are more of a black/white thing (no pun) in terms of functional coverage than clear. meaning, you either have enough primer and then base for it to work properly/look right....or not. so that would lead me to believe that the sub-clear layers are somewhat similar between jambs and exterior panels.

clear is different. it needs to be sprayed properly, of course...but as far as thickness, it can be sprayed thin for basic protection of the base coat and gloss, "basic coverage"....or thicker for protection (UV, physical, etc).

You say, "apparently" which leads me to believe you have a source for the information.


My GMC was painted by a Robot

Why would the Robot do a better job with Primer and Base Coat and then slack off on the Clear Coat?
 
Perhaps the robot could be programmed to only make a single pass over the jamb areas and make a double or triple pass over the exterior panel with the clear coat? I'm sure it all about the $. Is the base color paint more or less expensive than clear coat?
 
You say, "apparently" which leads me to believe you have a source for the information.


My GMC was painted by a Robot

Why would the Robot do a better job with Primer and Base Coat and then slack off on the Clear Coat?

no source for your review. i have some knowledge about how paint is done in a factory setting and also how it's done in a shop setting. i've had cars with paint issues, both factory and repaint, and got opinions and estimates regarding how to correct those issues. from what i understand...from what people tell me who know....how it appears, aka "apparently"...you need a certain amount of primer and a certain amount of color coat to get the job done without an assortment of potential issues. any less can cause problems, any more is unnecessary and can also cause its own problems.

as far as the clear, you've misunderstood.

it's not a matter of slacking off. it's a matter of requirements. the door jambs just need to have basic protection for the base coat, and minimum appearance requirements. since the bean counters have all of that dialed down to the last drop with said robots, they will only apply exactly what clear coat is needed in those areas.

the exterior panels and their sub-layers need ample protection from environmental attacks/fallout, UV, temperature changes, etc. they also need to look good while protecting. that means more clear coat.

i'm not confirming or refuting the door jamb thing. i'm simply extrapolating what i've learned about paint in a manner that might explain why that jamb suggestion has become such a common recommendation re: paint readings.
 
no source for your review. i have some knowledge about how paint is done in a factory setting and also how it's done in a shop setting. i've had cars with paint issues, both factory and repaint, and got opinions and estimates regarding how to correct those issues. from what i understand...from what people tell me who know....how it appears, aka "apparently"...you need a certain amount of primer and a certain amount of color coat to get the job done without an assortment of potential issues. any less can cause problems, any more is unnecessary and can also cause its own problems.

as far as the clear, you've misunderstood.

it's not a matter of slacking off. it's a matter of requirements. the door jambs just need to have basic protection for the base coat, and minimum appearance requirements. since the bean counters have all of that dialed down to the last drop with said robots, they will only apply exactly what clear coat is needed in those areas.

the exterior panels and their sub-layers need ample protection from environmental attacks/fallout, UV, temperature changes, etc. they also need to look good while protecting. that means more clear coat.

i'm not confirming or refuting the door jamb thing. i'm simply extrapolating what i've learned about paint in a manner that might explain why that jamb suggestion has become such a common recommendation re: paint readings.
"The Door Jamb Thing"

Here's my reasoning behind why I think that some people may/will use door jamb measurements as a guide to vehicles' overall average paint thickness(es): it basically comes down to:
Robot Spray Painting vs. (Man)Hand Spray Painting.

•Application of the paint-systems on most of the vehicles' parts, that are painted in the OEMs' paint kitchens, is mostly done using high volume, low pressure (HVLP) electrostatic spray equipment (Robotics)


•Otherwise:
(Man)Hand spray painting is used on touch-ups;
and, hard to reach places like door jambs and interiors.


Bob
 
no source for your review. i have some knowledge about how paint is done in a factory setting and also how it's done in a shop setting. i've had cars with paint issues, both factory and repaint, and got opinions and estimates regarding how to correct those issues. from what i understand...from what people tell me who know....how it appears, aka "apparently"...you need a certain amount of primer and a certain amount of color coat to get the job done without an assortment of potential issues. any less can cause problems, any more is unnecessary and can also cause its own problems.

as far as the clear, you've misunderstood.

it's not a matter of slacking off. it's a matter of requirements. the door jambs just need to have basic protection for the base coat, and minimum appearance requirements. since the bean counters have all of that dialed down to the last drop with said robots, they will only apply exactly what clear coat is needed in those areas.

the exterior panels and their sub-layers need ample protection from environmental attacks/fallout, UV, temperature changes, etc. they also need to look good while protecting. that means more clear coat.

i'm not confirming or refuting the door jamb thing. i'm simply extrapolating what i've learned about paint in a manner that might explain why that jamb suggestion has become such a common recommendation re: paint readings.

What you are saying about there being less need for CC of areas that are not exposed to the elements, such as the jambs and under the hood

Please ask the people you got the info from for more details

As I indicated earlier, the BC is visibly thin on areas of my jambs. To the point that the black looks grayish black
 
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