New car - scratched at delivery. Help to fix it?

[rekord]

Sorry but I have become another statistic...My NEW 2014 VW Passat, dark metallic blue, was "washed" (as in massacred) at delivery. It is now full of swirls..not too deep but enough to upset me each time I look at the car. After all it was brand NEW.

Anyway. I have a PorterXP 7424, experience close to zero (I detailed my Camry 99 and my Corolla 98 several times but I consider myself a total beginner).

What do I need to use to be gentle on the new paint, remove the swirls but not remove too much from the clear coat?

Anything specific to new cars that I need to be careful about? Anything specific to VW? Paint feels smooth to me should I clay it anyway or test to see if it is picking up contaminants? Do I have to use Iron-X?

I plan to use some paint sealant at the end topped with a quality wax. I live in Southern California and UV protection is a must. Any recommendations?

I will appreciate any and all comments, advice and hell from the experts in this forum.
Thank you so very much!

 

[HateSwirls]

If only light swirls Meg's Ultimate Compound using your PC along with an orange pad should remove them.
No waiting for an order to come in , it's easy to find.
Then use Meg's Ultimate Polish to finish using a white pad.
For protection after polishing try out Meg's NXT Wax, it's really a sealant so you'll get good protection.

Cost for all: $45.00.
Just make sure you have some good MF towels.

Steps.

Two bucket wash
Clay
UC
UP
NXT

Work in small areas, like 2x2 foot, first do a test area to make sure you remove all defects but I'm thinking it will do the job for you.
Technique is very important, can't stress that enough.

 

[vet]

Wecome, and congrats on the new car!

Good advuce from Hateswirls.

 

[Bill1234]

Sorry but I have become another statistic...My NEW 2014 VW Passat, dark metallic blue, was "washed" (as in massacred) at delivery. It is now full of swirls..not too deep but enough to upset me each time I look at the car. After all it was brand NEW.

Anyway. I have a PorterXP 7424, experience close to zero (I detailed my Camry 99 and my Corolla 98 several times but I consider myself a total beginner).

What do I need to use to be gentle on the new paint, remove the swirls but not remove too much from the clear coat?

Anything specific to new cars that I need to be careful about? Anything specific to VW? Paint feels smooth to me should I clay it anyway or test to see if it is picking up contaminants? Do I have to use Iron-X?

I plan to use some paint sealant at the end topped with a quality wax. I live in Southern California and UV protection is a must. Any recommendations?

I will appreciate any and all comments, advice and hell from the experts in this forum.
Thank you so very much!

I would wash clay and tape off your trim before working

 

[Just02896]

Could you take a few pictures of the worst of the paint defects and post them here in the thread? I'm not comfortable recommending a compound or polish until we know what we are dealing with.

 

[Dr_Pain]

If only light swirls Meg's Ultimate Compound using your PC along with an orange pad should remove them.
No waiting for an order to come in , it's easy to find.
Then use Meg's Ultimate Polish to finish using a white pad.

Just make sure you have some good MF towels.

Steps.

Two bucket wash
Clay
UC
UP
LSP

Work in small areas, like 2x2 foot, first do a test area to make sure you remove all defects but I'm thinking it will do the job for you.
Technique is very important, can't stress that enough.

:WHS:

With a couple of additional comments....

First make sure that you do a test spot (as stated) and then do an IPA wipe down and bring the car in full sunlight to inspect. ONLY THEN do will you have confirmation that of the selection of pad and products. As you described you are a novice so I would assume that you may fall pray to thinking that your car is swirl free when in fact the compounding oils are filling the fine stuff. Looks perfect till the LSP starts breaking down (through regular careful washes over a period of a few weeks) you start noticing more and more scratches.

My recommendation for protection (considering your UV protection requirement... and dark color vehicle) would be a coating. Of the ones I have tried I would recommend the Pinnacle Black Label surface coating for you. Main reason is that it is pretty fool proof. Second it can be applied to all surface you may want to coat (paint, glass, rims, fake chrome, etc..). I have a couple of examples in the Show 'N Shine of the results. The gloss is killer. It is semi permanent so you don't have to worry about not being able to repolish you car in a few years and messing up your coating. I prefer polishing my vehicles every 3 years which is the life expectancy of the semi-permanent coating. Make sure to get the paint cleanser they recommend. Beats IPA and Eraser to clean your substrates before coating.

Do you need to clay..... ABSOLUTELY! I haven't done a prep on a single "new car" that did not require claying (some worst than others). Baggie test will be your indicator.

 

[MarkD51]

Could you take a few pictures of the worst of the paint defects and post them here in the thread? I'm not comfortable recommending a compound or polish until we know what we are dealing with.

Agree with your comments.

Swirls from washing, usually aren't deep enough to dictate the need of resorting to what's referred to as a compound. For sure, I'd try something milder, a Ultra Fine finishing polish, and maybe a white flat LC pad at first. You can always do more, but cannot do less.

Something like Meguiars Mirror Glaze M205 Ultra Finishing Polish just might be the ticket with a White LC Pad. Just a few light passes on a test spot, and see what you have?

Just a one step with something like this just might resolve all issues with the paint at this point.

And the need of claying might also be a valid one, regardless of being brand spanking new.
Mark

 

[jankerson]

If only light swirls Meg's Ultimate Compound using your PC along with an orange pad should remove them.
No waiting for an order to come in , it's easy to find.
Then use Meg's Ultimate Polish to finish using a white pad.
For protection after polishing try out Meg's NXT Wax, it's really a sealant so you'll get good protection.

Cost for all: $45.00.
Just make sure you have some good MF towels.

Steps.

Two bucket wash
Clay
UC
UP
NXT

Work in small areas, like 2x2 foot, first do a test area to make sure you remove all defects but I'm thinking it will do the job for you.
Technique is very important, can't stress that enough.

:iagree:

The orange pad might be too much so try UC on the white pad 1st in the test spot, if that works then follow up with UP on a white pad.. If not then move to UC on the orange pad then follow with UP on the white pad.

The test spot is important though to see what works.

It's very possible that UC on the white pad will clean it up really well..... And finish out LSP ready....

I am of the school of using a more aggressive product with a less aggressive pad if possible and they will finish down well most of the time so the polishing step goes quicker.

 

[Desertnate]

Agree with your comments.

Swirls from washing, usually aren't deep enough to dictate the need of resorting to what's referred to as a compound. For sure, I'd try something milder, a Ultra Fine finishing polish, and maybe a white flat LC pad at first. You can always do more, but cannot do less.

Something like Meguiars Mirror Glaze M205 Ultra Finishing Polish just might be the ticket with a White LC Pad. Just a few light passes on a test spot, and see what you have?

Just a one step with something like this just might resolve all issues with the paint at this point.

And the need of claying might also be a valid one, regardless of being brand spanking new.
Mark

I was thinking the same thing. I'd start with 205 or even Ultimate Polish on polishing pad. There may be no need to bring out the heavy artillery like a compound and a cutting pad.

It's always worth at least attempting to clay and see how it turns out. On the new car I picked up this fall, I ran the clay over the hood and roof and it came back clean. I then did a couple of test spots on the rear hatch and fenders/doors with similar results, so I skipped than and moved on to the next step.

 

[jankerson]

I was thinking the same thing. I'd start with 205 or even Ultimate Polish on polishing pad. There may be no need to bring out the heavy artillery like a compound and a cutting pad.

It's always worth at least attempting to clay and see how it turns out. On the new car I picked up this fall, I ran the clay over the hood and roof and it came back clean. I then did a couple of test spots on the rear hatch and fenders/doors with similar results, so I skipped than and moved on to the next step.

I use M205 a lot. :xyxthumbs:

One would be surprised what M205 can do with the right pads because of the long working time. It can be used with a cutting pad like the Orange pad for a more aggressive approach and still finish out very well.

Or even the Megs Yellow pad used more aggressively on 5 or 6, it can cut very well if needed.

 

[Just02896]

I use M205 a lot. :xyxthumbs:

One would be surprised what M205 can do with the right pads because of the long working time. It can be used with a cutting pad like the Orange pad for a more aggressive approach and still finish out very well.

Or even the Megs Yellow pad used more aggressively on 5 or 6, it can cut very well if needed.

:iagree:

 

[WAXOFF]

VW has very hard clearcoat. I would use WGTSR and then WGDPGS and then top with Collinite 915. Then use CG V7 between wax jobs.

 

[HateSwirls]

I agree with the 205:dblthumb2:

I gave my advise not knowing his budget so I thought it would be best to start with basic products, plus it's easier to learn with the UC and UP.
Also agree first trying the white pad first.

I use M205 a lot. :xyxthumbs:

One would be surprised what M205 can do with the right pads because of the long working time. It can be used with a cutting pad like the Orange pad for a more aggressive approach and still finish out very well.

Or even the Megs Yellow pad used more aggressively on 5 or 6, it can cut very well if needed.

 

[jankerson]

I agree with the 205:dblthumb2:

I gave my advise not knowing his budget so I thought it would be best to start with basic products, plus it's easier to learn with the UC and UP.
Also agree first trying the white pad first.

I know that.

UC can finish out very well with a polishing pad almost or LSP ready usually and it still cuts well.

And like you said, it's easy to learn.

I still have some around, along with UP.

I also keep some M83 around too just in case.

 

[HateSwirls]

I have a few brands of high end compounds but still use UC if it passes the test area.
IMO its the easiest to work with.

I agree, it does finish down well, well enough if you just want to do a one step correction.

 

[jankerson]

I have a few brands of high end compounds but still use UC if it passes the test area.
IMO its the easiest to work with.

I agree, it does finish down well, well enough if you just want to do a one step correction.

That's what I use it for, that D151 or M83 depending...

Also can use M105 on a Polishing pad, works great with the Megs Yellow pad. :xyxthumbs:

 

[rekord]

Thank you so much for all the input! You are the best!

I have used Meguairs 3 step (1 paint cleaner, 2 polish, 3 wax) by hand over the years on my Toyotas. On of the things that made my buy a PC 7424 my hands will get so tired I would get cramps. But I really liked their products and I used their clay (the blue one) several times.

About the prices: I don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish. If I spend the money on a new car that means that I can spend another hundred or two to get a flawless finish (well remember I am a total newbie so my idea of flawless may vary from an expert's). Car is a daily driver - one more argument for a good protection.

I will post pictures - great idea - to show the damage.

If VW clear coats are hard is that a good thing? In terms of harder to scratch? And good news for a beginner meaning you can't do much harm? (First do no harm)? I would rather work on a harder coat (more passes, more product, more effort, very gradual progress) instead of something too soft that I can mess up. Something along the line of better safe than sorry.

Once again I am really grateful for the input and I will try to post pictures as soon as I can. I guess I need to take it in the sun.

 

[jankerson]

If VW clear coats are hard is that a good thing? In terms of harder to scratch?

About the same I guess, but that does mean harder to correct...

The test spot will tell you what you will need to do.

I would go with the UC, UP option as was recommended.

 

[rekord]

VW has very hard clearcoat. I would use WGTSR and then WGDPGS and then top with Collinite 915. Then use CG V7 between wax jobs.

VW in general or the Passat line? I understand that is a great deal of variation even for the same model, same color. The car was assembled in Tennessee I know that much but I still have to find the production date.

That hardcoat is good news or bad news for me as a newbie? meaning I don't have the time constraints of a pro/business? I would rather go slow instead of messing something up.

 

[MarkD51]

Rekord,
Probably the 3-step Meguairs products you might be referring to was the products that came in the Red Bottles, correct? Yes, I've used these, they work OK, were easily gotten from many stores, and were very inexpensive products that seemed to work fine.

The product that I mentioned earlier, #205 is in Meguiar's professional Mirror Glaze line, many stores do carry this product also lately, We even have it here at our Walmart.

Such a product can be used in 3 ways, by hand, by DA, and by Rotary Polisher. It's a good product to have on hand. Works fine on small tight areas, like near door handles, where fingernail scratches can begin to take their toll over time. Easy on, and easy off also, as simple to use as any liquid Wax, or liquid Glaze.

Others here have also suggested some polishes from both the Menzerna Line, or the Wolfgang Line. Again, both make some of, if not the finest polishes that have ever been designed-made, period. That's not to say Meguiars is any slouch in that regard, they too make superb polishes as well.

Please do stick around, make yourself at home here. There won't be any regrets. Perhaps further fill out some personal info, like where you're located.

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Mark