New Car Technique

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DrRon

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I expect delivery on a 2013 Subaru Outback mid-July here in Denver.
The paint is a special new color, Brilliant Brown Pearl.
I want to take good care of it, as well as all the trim since I plan to keep the car for a long time. So here are my questions:

  1. How long should I wait before using anything on the factory paint job?
  2. When I do start working to protect the new paint, what should I use?
  3. At our mile-high altitude I'm sure the UV effect is extreme. What works best to protect against that - special product or more frequent application?
  4. For all the black trim, what techniques / product protects best?
I really appreciate the expertise here to help me take care of this very special new ride.

Thanks,
Ron
 
Hey Ron!

Factory paint is ready to handle virtually everything you can throw at it once it leaves the factory.

Follow some basic steps to ensure the factory paint remains like new for years to come. With periodic routine maintenance, your finish will look new year after year.
Basic steps in order are:

Some great products that perform giving outstanding results try Duragloss 501, 601, and 105.


Duragloss 501

Duragloss 501 is a great cleaner & sealant. It's does a nice job at removing minor swirls, like defects, and oxidation. I use this product with both Orange and White 5 1/2" flat pads on my Porter Cable 7424 and 6 1/2" CCS pads on my Flex 3401...

Use Duragloss 501 straight out of the bottle working each section until your satisfied with the finish condition. Let it haze, then buff, it's very easy to use.

Work this with both pads on speed 5 moving the polisher between 1/2" and 1" per second. This is not super critical but the move slowly enough to give the pad & product time enough to perform it's work?

Duragloss 601

Duragloss 601 is called a bonding agent and it really works. It's a product that bonds well and creates the perfect surface for Duragloss 105 sealant.

Apply this with a Blue foam pad on speed 3.

This product does not need buffing and after 15 minutes or so apply Duragloss 105 directly on top of it.

Duragloss 105

Duragloss 105 is a nice sealant that provides superior gloss and protects like crazy.

"Duragloss 105 is so durable that it resists both acidic and alkaline cleaners. When the labels of Duragloss’ Bug Remover and Water Spot Remover say they will not remove durable polishes, this is the durable polish they’re referring to. Duragloss 105 shields the paint through automatic car washes, acid rain and spot cleaners for up to a year."

Apply this with a Blue foam pad on speed 3.

Allow to haze which usually takes no more than 15 to 20 minutes and buff with clean microfiber towels to a gorgeous shine.

Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Trim - Ultima Tire and Trim Guard[FONT=&quot]

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another approach - once you get the paint clean and de-swirled use opti-coat to keep your car looking like new for a long time
 
I do not question the above advice, I agree if a damaged car finish.

There is only so much clear coat paint on the car brand new, I would resist the argue to polish off any paint coatings. I would only start polishing as needed.

With a brand new car if the paint has no swirls, I would strong wash, clay, Iron x, then sealer or wax whichever you choose or both products.
 
As Bobby G said, factory paint is ready to polymer coat, wax, seal, or glaze, because it is baked on at the factory, fully cured.



dougaross said:
another approach - once you get the paint clean and de-swirled use opti-coat to keep your car looking like new for a long time
Click to expand...
I think that is an especially excellent idea on an off road vehicle. Good call.
Clean with Optimum Power Clean right before applying Opti-Coat 2.0.
Then you can use the wax of your choice as a topper, to enhance the look. I think that would be the most practical approach here.

Otherwise, you could apply a sealant like Wolfgang DGPS, wait 12-24 hours for it to cure, and then apply Wolfgang Fuzion wax. WG DGPS is very slick, and so is Fuzion, which also has an anti- static feature, and is absolutely gorgeous, with a clear, yet warm look, with a nice pop, that is a red colored wax that I think would look great on a brown metallic car. An orange or a yellow wax would look great as well, like Dodo Juice Orange Crush or Banana Armor.

Even if there are no swirls, I would be tempted to jewel the paint on a new car with Menzerna PO85RD and a gold pad before coating.

Formula 303 Aerospace protectant offers 100% UV protection for rubber, vinyl and plastic.
 
A good place to start is telling your dealer that there is to BE ABSOLUTELY NO PAINT PREP WORK DONE ON YOUR NEW CAR!

I always arrange to be at the dealer when the truck arrives with my new car. Last one I bought I was there when the protective sticky paper was removed from the car. And I went over every square inch looking for any dents, dings, or scratches. None found, so I went onto the paint flaw examination. Also good, so I had the car parked at the far end of the lot, went inside and finished the paperwork, drove the car into my enclosed car trailer and went home.
Totally satisfied that there were no dealer installed paint swirls, holograms, or even worse damage present.
 
heck said:
I do not question the above advice, I agree if a damaged car finish.

There is only so much clear coat paint on the car brand new, I would resist the argue to polish off any paint coatings. I would only start polishing as needed.

With a brand new car if the paint has no swirls, I would strong wash, clay, Iron x, then sealer or wax whichever you choose or both products.
Click to expand...

You also need to keep in mind that claying will likely induce some amount of marring on most paints (especially Subaru IME) so a light polish is always recommended after doing so. Such a mild combination of polishing removes so little clear coat materiel that it would not even be detectable on a PTG. Furthermore, if the OP were to use Opti-coat on the paint he would be adding far more thickness then his removing while also increasing the UV protection. :props:
 
Assuming it is built in an overseas factory you probably have a minimum of a few weeks between the paint application at the factory and when it finally arrives at the US dealer. There is final test and inspection at the factory, queue up enough cars for a container ship, ground transportation to the source port, the long ride on the container ship, unload at US port, port installed options, ground transportation from the US port to the US dealer, and various customs/paperwork process delays that might arise.

Still it can't hurt to ask a service manager at your dealership (not a salesperson) if there is anything special about the Subaru paint that you should wait some time before applying any coatings to it. Most likely they will say no, but it's easy enough to ask so you aren't guessing.
 
RaskyR1 said:
You also need to keep in mind that claying will likely induce some amount of marring on most paints (especially Subaru IME) so a light polish is always recommended after doing so. Such a mild combination of polishing removes so little clear coat materiel that it would not even be detectable on a PTG. Furthermore, if the OP were to use Opti-coat on the paint he would be adding far more thickness then his removing while also increasing the UV protection. :props:
Click to expand...

Very good points that I did not consider , experienced valued advice please heed.
 
Thanks all! I feel like I'm back in school here.

I've been studying the AGO "Go With The Flow" chart to try to learn your processes, vocabulary, etc. so maybe I can use that to frame my questions.

I started reading a thread on the Outback forum where folks were recommending Zaino and Klasse products. Sounds like the Duragloss and Wolfgang products are preferred here.

The vehicle is built in Lafayette, Indiana and trucked to Denver. I should see it about mid-July. I've attached a small picture of the car to show the paint - not good but all I have.

OK, Step 1 - Wash. Got that. But "Strong Wash"? Really? Tell me more please...

Step 2 - Clay. Why should I Clay a brand new vehicle?

Step 3 - Prewax Cleansing Polish. I don't expect any defects in the paint but if I Clay I can see the need to clean up the leftovers and lubricant. Right?

Step 4 - Glaze? Again, a wax to fill / cover imperfections. Can I skip this one?

Step 5 - Paint Sealant / Wax. So, this one is the beef, right? I really like the thought of the Bonding Agent before the sealant to maximize the protection. And I am really impressed with the OptiCoat idea, but would that come before the 501? Can I really do a good job with that product as an amateur? Is it really a lifetime product? Does it replace an annual Sealer?
I would then use the 601 and 105 after it cures?

I like the sound of the Wolfgang Fuzion enhancing the paint color, but would the DGPS play well chemically with the 501?
Would I be giving up the bonding agent before the sealant? Would it be worth it?

Hey Buckthorn - you say "Even if there are no swirls, I would be tempted to jewel the paint on a new car with Menzerna PO85RD and a gold pad before coating."
This really sounds good, but what is "jeweling" all about?

Hey Rasky - you say "Such a mild combination of polishing removes so little clear coat material that it would not even be detectable on a PTG." What's a PTG? (sorry...)


After the Full Monty on this new ride, maintenance would be a "Weak Wash" and Quick Detailer?

I like the sound of the Ultima Tire & Trim Guard. Would that do a better job than the 303?
Seems like today's vehicles are all about headlights with those massive clear covers. Sounds like the OptiCoat and Ultima would both do a good job of UV protection, right?

I'm old enough to remember going over my 1969 Dodge Charger Special Edition with a toothbrush to get the white wax residue out of the cracks and off the trim. Do today's polymer products eliminate that step?

So, let's see... I guess I need to add funds to my car loan for a DA Polisher, pads, microfiber towels and cabinet full of products.

I think that's enough for today's class. Thanks again everyone for your generous advice.
Ron
 
1: a strong wash as in a thorough wash to make sure that all grime is removed. You don't know what this car was exposed to before you got it.
2: You clay for the same reason as number 1. You don't know what contaminants are on the paint. It is possible that after putting your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and running it across the paint it will feel smooth, which is something you do after you wash it, and in that case, clay is not needed. Claying removes embedded contaminants that washing cannot, and does it in the safest and most efficient way.

3: correct.

4: yes, you can skip the glaze. Glaze is only to fill very fine scratches so you don't need to polish them out, which preserves paint thickness. No scratches-no glaze needed.

Opti Coat is applied directly to paint. Clean with Optimum Power Clean, and then apply Opti coat. I do not believe glaze would be used under the OC.
Opti Coat is basically a super durable clearcoat that resists water, dirt, and scratches better than the factory clear. It comes in a syringe and is applied with an applicator. It is a wipe on, walk away product, like Opti Seal, which is not permanent. I suggest you practice your technique with Opti Seal before you use Opti Coat.
Opti Coat can only be abraded off once it has cured. Opti Coat blocks UV. Once Opto Coated, you need never wax again unless you want to, to impart the look of a particular wax to the car. Yes, Opti Coat is more long lasting than the paint itself. In that sense, it is permanent. On the other hand, wind and water eroded rock and formed the Grand Canyon over millions of years....

You either OC, and wax as you like, or you use ONE sealant and use wax as you like. Not much point in putting one sealant over another.

Jeweling is taking a super soft pad, ie gold, with a super fine polish, ie Menzerna PO85RD, and polish to bring up the highest possible shine with the greatest clarity. It just takes the finish to the highest level, even after it doesn't seem to have any defects.

Around trim, I suggest using Optimum Opti Seal, because it goes on crystal clear and leaves no residue. Just spray it onto and around the emblem, use the applicator a bit to smooth it and walk away. No need to remove excess from crevices.


Opti Coat does an excellent job at protecting plastic lenses, and sealant or wax will prevent oxidation there as well.
 
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PTG = Paint Thickness Gauge. :props:


20120608-_MG_7405.jpg
 
Did I say Buckthorn? Darn - that's a local watering hole here. Sorry...

Would OC go over the jeweling OK?

Thanks so much for the details. I hope I can graduate before the car gets here.
 
Paint Thickness Gauge? Man, who knew? I've got so much to learn...
Thanks.
 
DrRon said:
Thanks all! I feel like I'm back in school here.


Step 3 - Prewax Cleansing Polish. I don't expect any defects in the paint but if I Clay I can see the need to clean up the leftovers and lubricant. Right?

Step 4 - Glaze? Again, a wax to fill / cover imperfections. Can I skip this one?

Step 5 - Paint Sealant / Wax. So, this one is the beef, right? I really like the thought of the Bonding Agent before the sealant to maximize the protection. And I am really impressed with the OptiCoat idea, but would that come before the 501? Can I really do a good job with that product as an amateur? Is it really a lifetime product? Does it replace an annual Sealer?
I would then use the 601 and 105 after it cures?

I think that's enough for today's class. Thanks again everyone for your generous advice.
Ron
Click to expand...

Actually the beef is in the preparation before you use sealant or wax. Preparation is the most important step.

Admittedly, there is a lot of info to absorb. Once the paint is "perfectly" prepared there are one of two paths you can take. 1) Opti-coat which wants to be applied over an absolutely clean surface. OC stands alone though you can top with other products to change is appearance but you will compromise its water/dirt sheding. It will last until it abraded off. 2) other sealants or waxes. the 501/601 falls here or if you want to use a glaze with a wax (but you shouldn't need a glaze if paint is properly prepared. You can top a sealant with a wax if you desire a different look.

IMO:OC is a not that hard to apply. I feel people are complicating the process. But that's my opinion. If you make a mistake with the latest product, ie a high spot, it can be gently polished off and re-coated if necessary.
 
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oldmodman said:
A good place to start is telling your dealer that there is to BE ABSOLUTELY NO PAINT PREP WORK DONE ON YOUR NEW CAR!

I always arrange to be at the dealer when the truck arrives with my new car. Last one I bought I was there when the protective sticky paper was removed from the car. And I went over every square inch looking for any dents, dings, or scratches. None found, so I went onto the paint flaw examination. Also good, so I had the car parked at the far end of the lot, went inside and finished the paperwork, drove the car into my enclosed car trailer and went home.
Totally satisfied that there were no dealer installed paint swirls, holograms, or even worse damage present.
Click to expand...

What kind of car did you buy? A Ferrari? :laughing:

I admire your dedication, but seems a tad bit much. An enclosed trailer?
 
Well, if anyone is still here, I would like to thank you all for the help in preparing my new Outback for a long and happy life on the road.

I did just about everything you all suggested as soon as I got her home, then took her on a 700 mile shakedown trip. She washed up just fine afterwards.

But I let the dealer talk me into a bra for it. So they put it on after I got back. The pictures show how nicely the car rinses from a wash up.

But - now what do I do about that bra? I'd like to make it as transparent as possible as well as protect it from oxidation since the paint clear coat is going to stay as new as I can keep it.

Can I use the Porter Cable on the bra? If not what should I use on it by hand?

Have I made a mistake here? I just worry about rock chips here in Colorado, especially in the winter.

All suggestions deeply appreciated.
Thanks,Feed back please
Ron
 
I thought you might like to see how she turned out after all your great suggestions - and before the bra...
 
And just for good luck, what's the best way to seal the windshield surface?

I got the special cleaner and I'm really pleased with the difference it makes compared to Windex. But we've got the Monsoon running here and I can tell the difference in the wiper areas when I wash the car.

Do I just polish and seal wax the glass?
 
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